Seamus Hammond
Fixatives are essential ingredients in perfumery, enhancing and extending the life of perfumes. They are used to equalize the vapour pressures of the raw materials in a perfume oil, increasing the odour tenacity. They are typically added after the fragrance is composed, and can be natural or synthetic. Natural fixatives include benzoin, labdanum, myrrh, olibanum, storax, and tolu balsam, while synthetic fixatives include diphenylmethane, dipropylene glycol, and cyclopentadecanolide. The choice of fixative depends on the desired aroma and longevity of the perfume.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Purpose | Enhance and extend the life of perfumes |
| Function | Equalize the vapour pressures of raw materials in a perfume oil, increase odour tenacity, and slow the dispersion of essential oils and other fragrance materials into the air |
| Types | Natural (resinoids, tinctures, gums, powders, herbs, animal origin), Synthetic (low volatility, odorless solvents with very low vapour pressures) |
| Examples | Natural: Benzoin, Labdanum, Frankincense, Myrrh, Olibanum, Storax, Tolu Balsam, Ambroxide, Civet, Vanilla, Sandalwood, Tonka Bean, Vegetable Musks. Synthetic: Dipropylene Glycol, Cyclopentadecanolide, Benzyl Salicylate, Iso E Super, Galaxolide, Ambroxan |
| Amount | Usually 3-5% of the perfume composition |
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What You'll Learn
The role of fixatives in perfume
Fixatives are essential ingredients in creating successful perfumes. They are used to enhance and extend the life of perfumes by reducing the rate of evaporation of the more volatile materials in the composition. They act as a base in perfumes, anchoring the oil's fragrance, resulting in a slower release and a longer-lasting fragrance.
There are many categories of fixatives, including resinoids, tinctures, gums, powders, herbs, and fixatives of
When formulating a perfume, it is crucial for perfumers to carefully select the correct type of fixative to use in order to manipulate its aroma and longevity. The choice of fixative can significantly alter the scent of a perfume, so perfumers must consider the desired fragrance profile. Some commonly used fixatives include benzoin, labdanum, myrrh, olibanum, storax, tolu balsam, Iso E Super, and sclareolide. These fixatives are known for their ability to enhance other notes present in the fragrance composition, adding complexity, warmth, and depth.
Overall, fixatives play a crucial role in determining the final fragrance profile of a perfume, ensuring that it lasts for a prolonged period on the skin or clothing.
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Types of fixatives
Fixatives are essential ingredients in creating successful perfumes. They help to retain and stabilize the aromatic components of a fragrance, ensuring that it lasts for a prolonged period on the skin or clothing.
There are several types of fixatives, including natural, synthetic, and resin-based options. Natural fixatives, or resinoids, are additives secreted from plants that produce a thick, sticky substance known as resin. Examples include benzoin, frankincense, myrrh, olibanum, labdanum, storax, tolu balsam, castoreum, and civet. These can also fall under the category of tinctures, gums, powders, and sometimes herbs.
Essential oils are another type of natural fixative. They not only add their own unique aromas but also help to stabilize and enhance other fragrance notes. Examples include patchouli essential oil, vetiver essential oil, sandalwood essential oil, frankincense essential oil, and cedarwood essential oil.
Synthetic fixatives, on the other hand, are widely used in modern perfumery due to their consistency, cost-effectiveness, and ability to stabilize. Examples of synthetic fixatives include Fixative BMV, diphenylmethane, dipropylene glycol (DPG), cyclopentadecanolide, ambroxide, and benzyl salicylate. High molecular weight substances like benzyl benzoate and triethyl citrate are nearly odorless fixatives used in fine fragrance development as they are FDA-approved and sustainable.
Finally, there are so-called fixatives, which are high-boiling materials that increase the boiling point of the perfume composition, paralyzing the odor of the low-boiling materials. These materials are comprised primarily of odorless or nearly odorless crystalline or viscous liquids, and have a physical effect without altering the scent of the fragrance.
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How to choose the right fixative
Choosing the right fixative is essential to achieving the desired fragrance outcome. Fixatives are substances that help to prolong the aroma of a perfume by reducing the rate of evaporation of the more volatile materials in the composition. They can also enhance the initial impression of a scent.
There are several factors to consider when choosing a fixative. Firstly, it is important to understand the different types of fixatives available and their effects on the scent. Fixatives can be categorized into resinoids, terpenoids, polycyclic ketones, and synthetic fixatives. Resinoids are natural fixatives derived from plants that produce a thick, sticky resin. Terpenoids, polycyclic ketones, and some synthetic fixatives like dipropylene glycol and cyclopentadecanolide were traditionally obtained from animals but are now mostly chemically synthesized due to ethical and economic reasons.
When selecting a fixative, it is crucial to consider its compatibility with other fragrances and its impact on the scent profile. Some fixatives have mild aromas that blend seamlessly with other fragrances, while others are chosen for their sensory contribution to the scent, colour, or other attributes. The choice between natural and synthetic fixatives is also important. While natural fixatives like ambergris, civet, and musk were once popular, strict environmental protection laws and sustainability concerns have led to the increased use of synthetic alternatives.
Additionally, the concentration of the fixative and the overall composition of the perfume are key considerations. A highly concentrated fixative may alter the odour profile of the fragrance, potentially crushing the head notes. Therefore, it is important to experiment with different concentrations and compare the results with and without the use of a fixative.
Lastly, the choice of fixative may depend on the desired longevity of the perfume. Some fixatives, like Fixative BMV, can be used at higher percentages of up to 10%, while others, like sandalwood, oakmoss, and vanilla bean, are effective at lower concentrations. The right fixative will ensure that the fragrance lasts for a prolonged period on the skin or clothing, enhancing the success of the perfume.
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When to add fixatives
When creating a perfume, fixatives are essential ingredients that help to retain and stabilise the aromatic components of a fragrance, ensuring that it lasts for a prolonged period on the skin or clothing. They are commonly used to enhance and extend the life of perfumes by reducing the rate of evaporation of the more volatile materials in the composition.
It is important to note that the type of fixative used can significantly alter the scent of a perfume, so perfumers must carefully consider their choice. The best option is to use the highest quality ingredients, whether synthetic or natural, and to add a good amount of base notes or fragrant fixatives to the perfume.
Additionally, the concentration of the fixative is crucial. If the fixative is too watered down, it will not be effective and will likely kill the longevity of the perfume. A good rule of thumb is to keep fixatives at about 3 to 5% of the total scent, as they often have strong, distinct odours.
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![Rit Dyes Fixative Liquid 8 oz. Bottle [Pack of 4 ]](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/71w0pdjYAYL._AC_UL320_.jpg)
How much fixative to use
The amount of fixative to use in perfume depends on the type of fixative and its intended effect on the scent. Fixatives are substances that restrict the volatility of fragrance components and help prolong the longevity of the aroma in perfumes. They are crucial in creating successful perfumes and enhancing their performance.
Natural fixatives, such as benzoin, frankincense, myrrh, olibanum, labdanum, storax, tolu balsam, civet, and ambergris, were once commonly used to increase the longevity and stability of perfumes. However, due to environmental protection laws and ethical concerns, these fixatives are rarely used today. Instead, perfumers rely on synthetic alternatives, such as dipropylene glycol, cyclopentadecanolide, and benzyl salicylate. These synthetic fixatives have mild aromas, making them easily compatible with other fragrances.
The concentration of fixatives in a perfume formula is typically around 3-5% as they are usually used as base notes. Some fixatives, such as Fixative BMV, can be used at a higher concentration of up to 10%. However, it is important to note that a higher concentration of fixatives does not necessarily equate to longer-lasting fragrance. The key is to use the correct type of fixative that complements and enhances the aroma of the perfume.
When creating perfumes, it is recommended to use high-quality ingredients, whether synthetic or natural, and to include a good amount of base notes or fragrant fixatives. Adding fixatives after the fragrance is composed may not significantly affect the scent but can improve longevity and refine the dry-down smell.
Overall, the amount of fixative used depends on the desired effect, the type of fixative, and the other ingredients in the perfume. Perfumers must carefully select and experiment with fixatives to achieve the desired aroma and longevity.
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Frequently asked questions
Fixatives are substances used to equalize the vapour pressures of the raw materials in a perfume oil, increasing the time for which the scent of a perfume lasts. They are commonly used to enhance and extend the life of perfumes.
Examples of fixatives include resinoids such as benzoin, labdanum, myrrh, olibanum, storax, and tolu balsam, terpenoids such as ambroxide, and polycyclic ketones such as civetone and muscone. Natural fixatives include sweet, earthy ambergris and velvety, sensual civet, while synthetic fixatives include diphenylmethane, dipropylene glycol, and cyclopentadecanolide.
Fixatives are typically added after the fragrance is composed. However, if you are using heavier materials as fixatives, they can be used as part of your composition.
