Heidi Norton
Benzoin is a complex and important ingredient in perfumery with a long history of use. With its warm, sweet, balsamic scent, benzoin resin has been used since ancient times, featuring in religious rituals in ancient Egypt and incense used in Buddhist temples, Orthodox churches in Russia, and Catholic churches in Europe. The variety of benzoin used determines its exact scent; for example, Laotian benzoin is known for its vanilla and caramelised scent, while Siam benzoin is rarer and more expensive with a stronger vanilla character. Benzoin is a versatile ingredient that can be combined with other notes to create a range of effects, from the witty and disturbing to the velvety and soft.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Scent | Vanilla, warm, sweet, Morello cherries, cinnamon, caramel, almond, roasted coffee, honey, floral, medicated nuances |
| Examples | Shalimar, Prada Candy, Egoiste, Guerlain Bois d'Armenie, Les Nereides Opoponax, Vetiver Velours, Atelier Rose Anonyme, Aftelier Cepes and Tuberose, Strange Invisible Perfumes Étrange |
| Source | Resin harvested in Malaysia, Sumatra, Laos, and Vietnam |
| History | Used in ancient Egypt for its fragrant and disinfectant properties; used in medicine by the Greeks to fight lung infections and skin problems; burned in many cultures to purify homes and ward off bad energy; used to make incense found in Buddhist temples, Orthodox churches in Russia, Catholic churches in Europe, and homes in Gulf States |
| Effect | Adds roundness and warmth to a composition |
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What You'll Learn
Benzoin's scent: vanilla, caramel, honey, almond, floral
Benzoin is a fragrant resin with a sweet, warm, and balsamic scent. It is an important and complex perfume ingredient with nuances of Morello cherries and cinnamon. Its scent is often described as vanilla, caramel, honey, almond, and floral.
The vanilla scent of benzoin is one of its most dominant characteristics. It is often described as a sweet, warm, and indulgent vanilla that can be enhanced by the addition of spices and citrus notes. Benzoin and vanilla fragrance oils are popular for creating a gourmand scent profile. Laotian benzoin, in particular, is known for its vanilla scent, which has inspired perfumes such as Prada Candy.
The caramel notes in benzoin add to its sweetness and gourmand qualities. When combined with vanilla, caramel, and spices, benzoin creates a luscious and indulgent fragrance. This combination is often used in perfumes to evoke a warm and inviting aura.
The honeyed aspect of benzoin contributes to its golden, syrupy character. Along with notes of amber and musk, the honey in benzoin adds depth and a touch of luxury to perfumes.
The almond notes in benzoin bring a subtle nuttiness to the fragrance. When combined with sweet and floral notes, the almond scent of benzoin can create a complex and captivating perfume. Hypnotic Poison, for example, combines benzoin with almond, jasmine, and vanilla to create a powerful and unforgettable scent.
The floral facets of benzoin are often described as carnation-like, with slightly medicated nuances. Benzoin's floral aspect is particularly prominent in oriental compositions, where it blends beautifully with woody and resinous notes. In the eau de parfum Kilim, benzoin is used to create a bewitching and long-lasting fragrance that combines floral, fruity, and spicy notes.
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Prada Candy and other benzoin perfumes
Benzoin is a complex and important perfume ingredient with nuances of Morello cherries and cinnamon. It is a prominent note in Prada Candy, a perfume launched in 2011. The scent is warm, sweet, and gourmand, with notes of caramel, musk, and vanilla. The benzoin adds a cozy feel to the fragrance, making it perfect for fall and winter.
Prada Candy has been described as elegant, sophisticated, and mature, with a soft, sugary scent. It is designed for women who are young at heart, with a flirty flair. The perfume has a concentration of 20% or greater, making it an eau de parfum or EDP spray.
While some reviewers found the scent too sweet or artificial, others appreciated its balance of sweetness, powderiness, and warmth. The longevity of the fragrance also received mixed reviews, with some praising its long-lasting scent, while others found it weak and short-lived.
In addition to Prada Candy, other perfumes that feature benzoin include Shalimar, Guerlain Bois d’Armenie, Les Nereides Opoponax, and Vetiver Velours (Keiko Mecheri). Benzoin is also a key ingredient in natural perfumes such as Aftelier Cepes and Tuberose, where it shines in the base note.
Overall, benzoin is a versatile and nuanced ingredient that can add depth and complexity to a wide range of perfumes, from sweet and gourmand to natural and earthy.
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Benzoin's history: ancient Egypt to incense in churches
Benzoin is a balsamic resin with a sweet, warm, and
In ancient Egypt, benzoin was valued for its disinfectant and fragrant properties. It was used during the embalming process and burned as incense. The ancient Greeks also recognised its medicinal qualities, documenting its use in treating lung infections and skin diseases from the 1st century AD onwards.
Benzoin has long been associated with incense, and its use in churches and religious contexts may have evolved from its ancient origins. Its sweet, warm scent lends itself well to creating a sacred and meditative atmosphere.
The resin has a long history of use in perfumery, too. Its complex scent profile includes nuances of Morello cherries, cinnamon, caramel, almond, roasted coffee, honey, and floral notes. Benzoin is an excellent fixative, improving the longevity of a fragrance while adding depth and warmth. Its versatility means it can be combined with a wide range of other notes, from woody and spicy to fruity and floral.
Today, benzoin continues to be a key ingredient in perfumery, featuring in oriental, amber, and gourmand accords. Its ability to evoke a sense of the Orient and its versatility in enhancing and balancing fragrances make it a favoured ingredient for perfumers worldwide.
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How benzoin is harvested
Benzoin is a natural resin that can be collected from two types of styrax trees: Styrax benzoin, native to Sumatra, and Styrax tonkinensis, which grows in Southeast Asia. The resin is a natural bandage for trees, protecting them from disease, fungus, and insects. It drips from wounded trunks and hardens in the open air. Once hardened, it can be burned, ground into a powder, or refined with solvents to create a fragrant extract called resinoid.
Benzoin is harvested by collecting the resin from the styrax trees. The process of collecting the resin is known as tapping, and it typically begins when the trees are around six years old. In Laos, the primary method of extraction involves arranging production with local communities who extract the resin from the trees. This method of harvesting benzoin is known as "styraxiculture".
The process of harvesting benzoin resin is a traditional and sustainable practice in Laos. The trees are grown and harvested using agroforestry principles, and the forest is managed to ensure the long-term viability of the resource. This sustainable approach to benzoin production provides economic benefits to local communities, contributing significantly to family incomes and supporting fair labour practices.
Indonesia and Laos are the primary producers of benzoin resin, with Laos being renowned for the quality of its benzoin. The benzoin produced in Laos is highly valued in the fragrance industry for its ability to impart a sweet note to perfumes, including high-end fragrances. The Laotian benzoin is sold to various countries, including France, Germany, India, and the United States.
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Benzoin's medicinal uses
Benzoin is a common ingredient in incense and perfumery due to its sweet vanilla-like aroma and fixative properties. It is the sap (gum resin) obtained from trees in the Styrax family. Benzoin is used in cosmetics, veterinary medicine, and scented candles. In the United States, Sumatra benzoin is used in pharmaceuticals, while Siam benzoin is used as a flavouring agent and fragrance.
Benzoin has been used extensively in traditional Chinese medicine, featuring in 95 Chinese herbal prescriptions. It is said to be effective in resuscitation, restoring consciousness, dispersing Qi, activating blood circulation, and relieving pain. It is also indicated for chest pains, infantile convulsions, and unconsciousness resulting from a stroke. Modern pharmacological research has revealed that benzoin possesses antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory, pesticidal, antitumor, and neuroprotective properties.
When applied to the skin, benzoin is considered possibly safe in appropriate amounts. It is used to treat ulcers, bedsores, cracked skin, and other skin conditions, although there is limited scientific evidence supporting these uses. Benzoin is likely safe when consumed in amounts found in food but may be unsafe when used in medicinal quantities. Ingesting compound benzoin tincture has been associated with stomach bleeding.
In perfumery, benzoin is a prominent note in several fragrances, including Prada Candy, Guerlain Bois d'Armenie, and Les Nereides Opoponax. It adds a velvety softness to the drydown phase of a perfume's development on the skin. Benzoin is also a key component in incense used in Russia, Eastern Orthodox Christian societies, and Latin Catholic churches.
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Frequently asked questions
Benzoin is a resin with a balsamic, warm, and sweet smell. It has been used since ancient times for its fragrant and disinfectant properties.
Benzoin has a very vanilla scent with nuances of Morello cherries, cinnamon, caramel, almond, roasted coffee, honey, and cocoa butter. Depending on its variety, benzoin can also have a more caramelized or assertive vanilla character.
Benzoin is a key ingredient in oriental, amber, or gourmand perfumes. It adds warmth and roundness to a composition. Benzoin is featured in perfumes such as Prada Candy, Egoiste, Shalimar, and Kilim.
Laos benzoin is known for its vanilla and caramelized scent, while Siam benzoin is rarer and more expensive with a stronger vanilla character.
