Creating A Cologne: The Fragrance Formula

Creating a fragrance to make a cologne is a fun and experimental process. The first step is to familiarise yourself with the fragrance scale. This scale is made up of three notes: top, middle and base. Top notes are the first scents you smell, followed by the middle notes, and finally, the base notes, which form the foundation of the fragrance. The ideal ratio for blending these notes is 30% top notes, 50% middle notes and 20% base notes.

Once you have an understanding of the fragrance scale, you can start to choose your essential oils. These can include cedarwood, bergamot, rose, jasmine, ylang-ylang, lime, lavender, rosemary, and vanilla. You can also add alcohol to your cologne to make it more suitable for use on the skin, as well as to help the scent last longer and be more intense.

After choosing your oils, you can start to blend them together. This is the fun part, but remember that not all notes will go well together, so it's important to experiment. Once you have your desired formula, you can add alcohol to the mixture.

Understand the science of perfume

Understanding the science of perfume is key to creating a harmonious scent profile. Perfumes are crafted from various aromatic ingredients, with each ingredient playing a specific role in shaping the overall fragrance experience.

The ingredients in a perfume are categorised into three main types of notes: top, middle/heart, and base notes. Each of these notes has a unique impact on the scent's evolution and character.

Top notes are the initial impression of a perfume, often described as "fresh," "sharp," or "assertive." These notes are composed of small, light molecules that evaporate quickly, creating an inviting opening for the perfume. Common top notes include citrus fruits, herbs, and light floral scents.

Middle or heart notes emerge as the top notes dissipate. These notes are generally more mellow and rounded, forming the core of the perfume. They add depth and complexity to the scent profile, imparting warmth and personality. Middle notes typically include floral, fruity, or spicy aromas.

Base notes are the foundation of the perfume, providing longevity and stability. These rich, deep, and earthy notes emerge as the top and middle notes fade, creating a lasting impression. Base notes consist of ingredients such as woods, resins, and musks, anchoring the perfume and ensuring a graceful evolution of the scent over time.

The interplay of these notes, along with the wearer's skin chemistry, influences the overall scent experience. The unique pH balance and natural oils of the skin interact with the fragrance composition, resulting in a scent that is unique to each individual.

In addition to the choice of notes, the molecular structure of the ingredients, the pyramid construction of the fragrance, and the use of fixatives also play a crucial role in a perfume's longevity and overall scent experience.

Fixatives, such as ambergris or musk, are resinous or woody substances that help stabilise the volatile elements of the perfume compound. They slow down the evaporation rate, prolonging the life of the fragrance on the skin.

The concentration of the fragrance is another factor that affects its longevity. Perfumes with a higher concentration of fragrance oil to alcohol, such as Eau de Parfum, will typically last longer than those with a lower concentration, like Eau de Toilette.

Understanding the science of perfume involves delving into the intricate interplay of chemistry and artistry. It is a complex process that requires careful selection and blending of aromatic compounds, taking into account molecular structure, volatility, and olfactory characteristics.

Learn about top, middle and base notes

When creating a cologne, it's important to understand the fragrance scale and the different notes that make up a perfume. Top, middle, and base notes all have distinct characteristics and work together to create a harmonious scent.

Top notes, also known as head notes, are the first impression of a perfume. They are usually fresh and sharp, with a lighter molecular structure. Citrus oils are commonly used as top notes and tend to last only 5-15 minutes on the skin. Examples of top notes include bergamot, lemon, tangerine, and lavender.

Middle notes, or heart notes, make their presence known as the top notes fade. These notes are well-rounded and pleasant, with a fuller body. They tend to include herbal or floral notes, such as jasmine, rose, ylang-ylang, and lavender. Middle notes typically last for 20-60 minutes.

Base notes are the boldest and richest notes in a fragrance. They have a heavy molecular structure and are not as volatile as other essential oils. Base notes can last upwards of 6 hours and often include musk, vanilla, and woody notes. Examples of base notes are patchouli, vetiver, sandalwood, and vanilla.

When creating a cologne, it's important to balance these notes. A basic pyramid accord suggests 60% base notes, 30% middle notes, and 10% top notes. However, you may choose to experiment with different ratios to create a unique scent profile.

Choose your essential oils

The essential oils you choose will make or break your cologne. It's important to select oils that blend well together and result in a scent that you like.

Top notes

Top notes are the first thing you smell in a composition. Choose one or a combination of the following:

• Wild orange
• Bergamot
• Lemongrass
• Lemon
• Lime
• Basil
• Juniper
• Fennel
• Spearmint
• Camphor
• Clary sage
• Nutmeg
• Ginger
• Cardamom
• Black pepper
• Pine
• Roman chamomile
• Neroli

Middle notes

Middle notes blend the scents together. Choose one or a combination of the following:

• Sandalwood
• Cardamon
• Ylang ylang
• Vetiver
• Cedarwood
• Basil
• Cypress
• Fennel
• Bergamot
• Juniper
• Clary sage
• Black pepper
• Myrrh
• Frankincense
• Balsam fir needle
• Cedarwood
• Pine
• Roman chamomile
• Ylang-ylang
• Sandalwood
• Vetiver

Base notes

Base notes are the scents that last the longest. Choose one or a combination of the following:

• Frankincense
• Douglas fir
• White fir
• Siberian fir
• Sandalwood
• Clove
• Copaiba
• Lemon
• Vetiver
• Cedarwood
• Wild orange
• Siberian fir
• Lavender
• Cinnamon
• Dark pepper
• Patchouli

Masculine essential oil blends

If you're making cologne for a man, it's best to stick to earthy, woodsy, spicy, and citrus essential oils. Here are some blends you could try:

• 4 drops of wild orange (top note)
• 6 drops of sandalwood (middle note)
• 10 drops of frankincense (base note)
• 3 drops of lemon (top note)
• 4 drops of cardamom (middle note)
• 4 drops of ylang ylang (middle note)
• 6 drops of vetiver (base note)
• 3 drops of lemongrass (top note)
• 3 drops of basil (middle note)
• 4 drops of cedarwood (base note)
• 6 drops of Douglas fir (base note)
• 2 drops of bergamot (top note)
• 3 drops of lemon (top note)
• 6 drops of clove (middle note)
• 8 drops of white fir (base note)
• 4 drops of lemongrass (top note)
• 6 drops of copaiba (middle note)
• 8 drops of frankincense (base note)
• 3 drops of juniper (top note)
• 5 drops of clove (middle note)
• 5 drops of lemon verbena (middle note)
• 5 drops of rosemary (middle note)
• 10 drops of peppermint (base note)
• 5 drops of pine (base note)
• 5 drops of nutmeg (base note)
• 5 drops of fennel (base note)
• 5 drops of orange (base note)
• 10 drops of cedarwood (base note)
• 2 drops of wild orange (top note)
• 6 drops of sandalwood (middle note)
• 8 drops of frankincense (base note)
• 2 drops of bergamot (top note)
• 8 drops of Siberian fir (middle note)

Mix the fragrance with the perfume base

To make a cologne, you need to mix your chosen fragrance with a perfume base. This process is simple but requires some maths to ensure you add the correct ratio of fragrance oil to your formula.

Step 1: Calculating Your Fragrance Load

First, choose a fragrance oil and refer to its IFRA statement (provided on the product page). The IFRA statement will tell you the maximum amount of fragrance oil you can safely use. Decide how many total ounces of cologne you want to make, and calculate how much fragrance you need by multiplying the total amount by the percentage of fragrance you want to use.

For example, if you want to make 2.5oz of cologne and the maximum fragrance load is 15.44%, you will need 0.38oz of fragrance oil (2.5 x 0.1544 = 0.38).

Step 2: Mixing Your Cologne

Now you know how much fragrance oil to use, follow these steps to mix your cologne:

• Set your funnel pitcher on a digital scale and tare it to zero.
• Pour the perfume base into the funnel pitcher.
• Add the fragrance oil to the funnel pitcher. You may find it easier to use a plastic pipette to transfer the oil.
• Stir the mixture with a whisk.
• Pour the mixture into your spray bottle(s) and put on the cap.
• Label the bottle(s) accordingly.

Your DIY cologne is now ready to use!

Pour the cologne into a spray bottle

Now that your cologne is ready, it's time to pour it into a spray bottle. Here are some detailed, step-by-step instructions to guide you through the process:

Gather the Necessary Supplies:

Firstly, you will need a spray bottle, preferably made of glass and in a dark colour to protect your cologne from light. You can find these bottles at specialty stores or online. You will also need a funnel to help with the pouring process.

Prepare the Spray Bottle:

Before pouring in your cologne, it is important to sterilise the spray bottle, especially if it is a reused container. You can sterilise it by washing it with hot water or running it through the dishwasher. Ensure that the bottle is completely dry before proceeding to the next step.

Pour the Cologne:

Now, carefully pour your cologne into the spray bottle. If you are making multiple bottles, it is recommended to place the bottles on a digital scale to ensure that you pour the same amount into each bottle. Tare the scale to zero before pouring, so you can fill each bottle to the same level.

Finalise and Label:

Once you have filled the spray bottle(s), put on the cap and label the bottle(s) accordingly. Your cologne is now ready to use and can be stored in a cool, dark place to prolong its shelf life.

Tips and Tricks:

When creating your cologne, it is important to follow the correct ratios of base, middle, and top notes to achieve a well-balanced fragrance. You can also get creative and design your own unique scent profile by experimenting with different essential oils and fragrances. Remember to let your cologne mature for a few weeks to allow the scents to blend and develop fully.

Frequently asked questions