Lance Carson
Testing soap fragrances is an important step in the soapmaking process, as it ensures the final product meets expectations in terms of scent, colour, and performance. It is a simple process that can be done at home with some basic equipment, such as paper cups, pipettes, and a plastic spoon. The first step is to prepare a small batch of soap, typically about 1-2 pounds, and then divide it into multiple cups, each labelled and containing a different fragrance. This allows for the testing of various factors, including scent strength, changes in odour, discoloration, and fragrance longevity. The results of these tests can provide valuable insights into the performance of different fragrances and help soapmakers make informed decisions before purchasing larger quantities.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Testing equipment | Paper Dixie cups, disposable pipettes, plastic spoon, silicone mini muffin tray |
| Batch size | 1 lb |
| Amount of FO per cup | 0.125 oz or 3.69 ml |
| FO per pound of soap oils | 0.5 to 1 oz |
| Temperature | 110ºF or lower |
| Molds | Silicone loaf molds |
| Insulation | Minimal, with 2-3 molds sitting side by side on a wire rack |
| Unmolding time | 24-72 hours |
| Curing time | 4 weeks |
| Factors to observe | Overheating, gelling, scent strength, changes in odor, discoloration, fragrance longevity |
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What You'll Learn
Testing multiple fragrances at once
When testing multiple soap fragrances at once, it is recommended to test no more than two fragrances on the skin at any given time, with one fragrance applied to each arm. This way, you avoid overwhelming your nose. The back of the hand is a good testing spot as it is easier to smell, but the wrists are also a good option as they are pulse points. When testing on the skin, simply spritz the scent and sniff as desired. Avoid rubbing your wrists together, as this will cause the scent to warm up and evaporate more quickly. If you want to wash a scent off, soap and water should work, but be aware that, depending on the tenacity of the fragrance, a trace may linger on the skin.
Before applying fragrances to your skin, you can also test them on blotters or paper strips. If using long blotters, bend the spritzed end to 90 degrees so that you can place the blotter down on a table without contaminating the scent. If testing several scents, write the name of the fragrance on the unscented end of the blotter so that you know which is which. Bring the blotter close to your nose and smell, moving it to and from your nose in short bursts. If your nose becomes overwhelmed, take a break and go outside for some fresh air. Avoid inhaling strong smells like coffee beans to clear your nose, as this will have the opposite effect.
If you are testing multiple fragrances in a store, you can ask a salesperson to spray a cologne onto a testing strip for you to smell. However, be aware that this can become overwhelming. You can also spray a couple of fragrances onto test strips yourself to get a general idea of which scents you might want to try on your skin. Take these strips with you and continue to sniff them over the next couple of hours to see if you still like them. If you do decide to try them on your skin, you may want to return to the store another day to do so.
If you are testing multiple fragrances at home, you can order samples of different fragrances online and try a new one each day. This can help to prevent you from making purchases of fragrances that you may not enjoy once you discover other scents.
If you are creating your own soap, you can test multiple fragrances by making several small batches of soap using one main soap recipe. This process is known as multi-batching or master-batching. Weigh out and prep your oils and lye solutions in advance, then separate the amounts you need for each batch.
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How to prepare for testing
Before you begin testing soap fragrances, it's important to gather the right materials and prepare your workspace. Here's a step-by-step guide to help you prepare for the testing process:
- Gather the Necessary Materials: You will need paper cups (specifically Dixie cups are commonly used), disposable pipettes, a plastic spoon, a sharpie or labelling tool, a pad of paper, and a pen. It is also recommended to wear gloves and goggles for protection during the testing process.
- Prepare the Soap Batch: Make a small batch of soap, typically around 22 ounces of oils or a 1-pound batch. You can also include butter in your batch. Set the batch aside to let it come to room temperature. Accurate measuring and preparation are crucial when working with small batches.
- Label the Cups: Use the sharpie or labelling tool to label each cup with the name of the fragrance you will be testing. This helps to avoid confusion and ensures an organised testing process.
- Calculate Fragrance Amounts: Determine the amount of fragrance oil (FO) needed for each cup. A standard usage rate is 0.5 to 1 oz of FO per pound of soap oils, but some fragrances may have lower usage rates as recommended by the IFRA (International Fragrance Association). Calculate the required amount of FO for each fragrance you plan to test.
- Prepare the Soap Cups: Pour equal amounts of the soap batter into each cup. If you are testing multiple fragrances, work quickly to maintain consistency. Prepare your pipettes for adding the fragrances.
- Add the Fragrances: Using the pipettes, measure out the calculated amount of each FO and add it to the respective soap cups. Mix well to combine the fragrance with the soap batter.
- Clean and Prepare for the Next Batch: Rinse the plastic spoon between each fragrance test to avoid cross-contamination. If you are testing a large number of fragrances, you may need to prepare additional spoons or have a system for rinsing and drying between tests.
By following these preparation steps, you will be well-equipped to start testing soap fragrances. Remember to work quickly, especially if you are testing multiple fragrances, and always maintain accurate measurements and labelling to ensure reliable results.
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Testing for discoloration
Testing for discolouration is one of the most important aspects of testing soap fragrances. Fragrances can wreak havoc on the soap-making process due to their many different components, and discolouration is the main problem for soap makers. The discolouration is usually caused by the ingredient vanillin, the primary component of vanilla bean extract. The discolouration will continue until the whole soap has become the same colour.
The extent of the discolouration and how quickly a soap will turn brown depends on the percentage of vanillin in the fragrance. Fragrances with a high percentage of vanillin (10% or more) will turn a dark brown, whereas those with a small amount (less than 1%) will only discolour slightly and often only after some time has passed. This is why fragrance testing takes a while. You will only know the full extent of the discolouration after the soap has been completely cured.
There are ways to slow down the discolouration process, but it is a natural process and cannot be prevented completely. Chemicals can be used to stabilise the fragrance and postpone discolouration for several months. One such product is called Vanilla Colour Stabiliser, which works by counteracting the oxidation of the vanillin. However, this is not a permanent solution and will not last forever.
If you are making melt-and-pour soap, you can use a Vanilla Colour Stabiliser to prevent discolouration. A 1:1 ratio with the fragrance is recommended. This method is not recommended for cold-process soap because the results are inconsistent. It may not prevent discolouration at all, or it may only work for a few months. If the fragrance has a low vanilla content, you can use titanium dioxide pigment to lighten the discolouration. Start by mixing 2 teaspoons of titanium dioxide into 2 tablespoons of a lightweight oil. At trace, add 1 dispersed teaspoon at a time. It is tricky to know exactly how much to use because the soap hasn't discoloured yet. Keep adding colour until the soap is light enough.
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Testing for scent longevity
Testing Methods:
- Paper Cup Test: This method involves using paper Dixie cups, disposable pipettes, and a plastic spoon. Prepare a small batch of soap and pour it into the cups until they are half full. Add about 2 to 2.5 ml of your chosen fragrance to each cup, stir, and make quick notes on the scent's strength and longevity. Rinse the spoon between tests. This method allows for testing multiple fragrances efficiently.
- Skin Test: When testing the longevity of a fragrance on the skin, dab a small amount of the perfume on the back of your hand. Avoid sniffing it continuously, as this can lead to olfactory fatigue. Instead, smell it every hour to gauge how long the scent lasts.
Enhancing Scent Longevity:
- Essential Oil Blending: Create longer-lasting fragrances by blending essential oils with different evaporation rates. Combine top notes, middle notes, and base notes. Top notes like citrus scents evaporate quickly, while base notes like wood and spice scents last longer. By blending lemon essential oil (a top note) with lemongrass essential oil (a middle note), the overall scent will endure longer. Adding a base note, such as patchouli essential oil, will further extend the fragrance's longevity.
- Anchoring: This technique involves pairing lighter fragrances with deeper, earthier, or more complex scents to "anchor" them in the soap. Amber Fragrance Oil, Ginger Patchouli Fragrance Oil, or Sensuous Sandalwood Fragrance Oil can be used as anchors.
- Soap-Making Process: Opt for melt-and-pour or hot process soap-making methods instead of cold process. In these methods, the fragrance is added towards the end when the soap is cooling down, reducing evaporation.
- Usage Rates: The amount of fragrance added to the soap impacts its longevity. For cold process soap, Bramble Berry recommends 0.7 ounces of fragrance or essential oil per pound of soap. For melt-and-pour soap, they suggest 0.3 ounces per pound. However, these rates vary based on the specific oil used.
- Cure Environment: Cure the soap in a cool, dry place, away from direct sunlight. This helps maintain the scent's strength.
Remember to manage your expectations regarding fragrance longevity in soap. Even the strongest scents will gradually fade over time, and it is rare for them to remain potent after a year. Always ensure that the fragrances you use are skin-safe and follow safety guidelines provided by organizations like IFRA (International Fragrance Association).
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How fragrances interact with recipes
When adding fragrances to a soap recipe, it is important to note that not all fragrances are created equal. Some fragrances may interact with your recipe in unexpected ways, so it is always good to make a small test batch first. Fragrances can cause a wide array of issues, from colour changes (when the fragrance is rich in vanilla, for example) to ricing, overheating, or acceleration. For instance, some fragrances turn your soap brown or cause soda ash. Florals and spices can sometimes accelerate trace, and spices also tend to get hot and cause gel.
To prevent overheating, keep an eye on the temperature of your mixture. If you see signs of seizing or ricing, be prepared to pour the soap into a mould quickly. Lower temperatures to around 105-115°F (40.5-46°C) to prevent acceleration or overheating.
The amount of fragrance you add to your recipe is also important. Most calculators recommend 3% fragrance oil/essential oil weight, but this may vary depending on your preferences and the specific fragrance you are using. Some fragrances can be added at up to 8% in the US, but this may cause skin irritation or other issues. It is important to check the safe usage rate for each fragrance component before mixing. Fragrance oils are generally more economical than essential oils, as you will usually need smaller amounts.
When adding fragrance, it is best to pour it into a glass or stainless steel container, as plastic and styrofoam will melt when exposed to these oils. Always add the fragrance at the last second before pouring your soap into the mould. If you are using fragrance oils, mix them with an equal amount of liquid oil from your batch and microwave for about 20 seconds before adding. This will give you more time to work with the mixture.
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Frequently asked questions
A foolproof way to test soap fragrances is to prepare several cups with soap and add different fragrances to each cup. This allows you to test multiple fragrances at once and observe how they behave, change in odor, and discolor over time.
You'll be putting about two ounces of soap batter in each cup.
0.5 to 1 oz of fragrance oil per pound of soap oils is standard, but some fragrances will have a lower usage rate as recommended by the IFRA (International Fragrance Association). Always check the recommended usage rates before proceeding.
You should set aside a shelf to keep your test cups for several weeks to several months to determine how much they may discolor over time and to test the fragrance's longevity.
If you want to test a large number of fragrances, consider using a silicone mini muffin tray instead of cups. This will give you usable soap sample pucks and minimize waste.
