Anisha Riggs
Choosing a perfume is a highly personal experience, much like choosing your favourite shade of lipstick or the perfect outfit. The best way to test a perfume is to wear it, allowing it to interact with your body's natural chemistry. However, when testing multiple fragrances, it is easy to overload your sense of smell. To avoid this, it is recommended to test perfumes using blotters (absorbent paper strips) first, before testing the chosen few on your skin. When testing perfumes on your skin, it is important to allow the fragrance to develop over time, as the scent will evolve and change.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Number of perfumes to test | It is recommended not to test more than 3 perfumes in a day |
| Testing method | Paper blotters/strips are recommended before testing on skin |
| Testing on skin | Spray on pulse points like wrists, behind ears, or inner elbow |
| Number of sprays | 2-3 sprays on blotters, 2 sprays on skin |
| Time between testing | Take a break of a few minutes between testing different perfumes |
| Resetting sense of smell | Smelling your own skin or clothes is better than coffee beans |
| Rubbing wrists | Avoid rubbing wrists as it can alter the scent |
| Concentration | Concentration determines the longevity of the perfume |
| Notes | Experience the top, middle, and base notes of the perfume |
| Time of day | Test perfumes earlier in the day as the sense of smell is sharpest then |
| Lifestyle | Understand how the perfume fits into your lifestyle |
| Body chemistry | The warmth, flora, and natural oils of your skin will react with the perfume to create a unique scent |
| Choosing a perfume | Choose a perfume that resonates with you |
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What You'll Learn
Using blotters
Blotters are an essential first step in the fragrance selection process. They are made from absorbent, porous paper that allows perfumes to be absorbed quickly, giving an accurate impression of how the fragrance will smell once it's in a wax or soap base.
When testing perfumes using blotters, it is important to do so in a clean, tranquil environment. Avoid rooms with distracting scents, such as perfume, cologne, chemical smells, food, or tobacco. It is also important to note that the nose can quickly adjust to a new scent and desensitize itself, so it is best to avoid testing more than three fragrances on blotters in a day.
To use a blotter, start by spraying two to three quick sprays of the perfume into the air in a downward motion, creating a cloud. Pass the blotter through the cloud, then wave it under your nose, maintaining a distance of about an inch or two. Inhale gently and take short bursts of the scent. Identify the top notes first, the heart notes after about a minute, and the base notes as they develop over time.
If you are testing two very similar fragrances, keep a third blotter handy that has been dipped in a very different and strong aroma. Take whiffs of this third blotter between the two similar fragrances to help your nose ""forget" the first scent and resensitize for the second.
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Testing on skin
Testing perfume on your skin is an essential step in the fragrance evaluation process. Your skin's natural oils, pH levels, and warmth will react with the perfume, creating a scent that is unique to you. To get the best results, follow these steps:
Firstly, ensure your skin is clean and warm, as open pores react more readily with the fragrance. Avoid wearing other fragrances or scented products when testing, as these can interfere with your ability to experience the new scent. Choose a time in the morning to test, as your sense of smell is more acute at this time. Opt for a warmer month, if possible, to benefit from heightened fragrance perception.
Apply the perfume to your pulse points, such as your wrists, neck, behind your ears, or the inner elbow. These areas emit warmth, helping the fragrance to evolve and giving you a good indication of how the perfume will react with your skin chemistry throughout the day. Spray the perfume from a distance, not too close and not too far, and avoid rubbing your wrists together as this can break down the fragrance molecules and alter the scent.
Allow the perfume to settle and dry naturally on your skin. Inhale the top notes without touching your nose to the spot, and then wait. The fragrance will develop over time as you experience each of the layers of notes in its formulation. Take a sniff every 15-30 minutes or longer to observe how the scent evolves and changes.
It's important to test only one perfume at a time to truly appreciate each note and nuance. Give each fragrance time to interact with your body's natural chemistry. You may love a scent in the store, but your opinion may change as the perfume deepens and develops on your skin.
Finally, take note of the longevity of the perfume. Oilier skin tends to hold fragrance longer, while dry skin may cause the scent to fade faster. Consider moisturising before applying perfume, as hydrated skin holds scent better. Scents can also shift based on temperature and humidity, so try testing a perfume in different environments to see how it evolves.
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Avoiding nasal fatigue
When testing perfumes, it's important to avoid nasal fatigue, or "going nose blind". This is a common phenomenon when testing multiple fragrances, and it happens when your nose is oversaturated with scent. Here are some tips to avoid nasal fatigue:
- Avoid wearing other fragrances or strongly scented lotions when testing new perfumes. Your everyday perfume or body lotion may hinder your ability to experience a new fragrance.
- Don't test too many perfumes at once. Your sense of smell can only handle a few scents well before it gets confused. It's recommended to limit yourself to testing no more than three fragrances on blotters in a day.
- Take breaks between testing different perfumes. Give each perfume the spotlight and let it waltz with your senses before moving on to the next one.
- Avoid strong scents like coffee beans as palate cleansers. Scientific tests have shown that they are ineffective. Instead, try smelling your own skin or clothes, or step outside for some fresh air.
- Get samples of the perfumes you're interested in and wear them for a few days. This will allow you to experience the complete fragrance cycle and understand how it fits into your lifestyle.
- Test the perfume at different concentrations. Different concentrations may present varying notes, so it's beneficial to explore a fragrance in all its available concentrations to find the one that resonates best with you.
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Understanding perfume notes
Understanding the different notes in a perfume can be daunting, even for experienced perfume enthusiasts. However, it is crucial if you want to find your signature scent.
Perfume notes are the different layers of scent that you can smell in a fragrance. These notes are classified according to how quickly they evaporate and how long they last. The three types of perfume notes are top notes, middle notes, and base notes, which together form a fragrance pyramid.
Top notes, sometimes referred to as head notes, are the initial scents that you smell when you first spray or apply perfume. They are the lightest and most volatile notes, and they typically last for about 5 to 15 minutes. Common top notes include citrus fruits, herbs, and light floral or fruity scents, such as lemon, bergamot, lavender, apple, and grapefruit.
Middle notes, also known as heart notes, are the scents that you can smell once the top notes have evaporated. They typically last for about 2 to 3 hours and form the core of the perfume. Examples of middle notes include floral scents like rose, jasmine, and lavender, as well as spicy scents like cinnamon and nutmeg.
Base notes are the final layer in the aromatic structure of a perfume, providing depth and solidity to the fragrance. These notes kick in about 30 to 45 minutes after application and can last for several hours, sometimes even an entire day. Popular base notes include vanilla, amber, musk, patchouli, moss, and woody notes like sandalwood and cedarwood.
It is important to remember that perfumes are an ensemble, and the components change or enhance each other. The interaction between individual fragrance notes and the wearer's skin chemistry further influences the overall scent experience, as perfumes may smell different on each person.
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Finding your signature scent
Firstly, it's important to avoid wearing any other fragrances or strongly scented deodorants when testing out new perfumes. You should also avoid testing too many fragrances at once, as your sense of smell can only handle a few scents before it gets confused. It's recommended that you try no more than three fragrances in one day.
When testing, it's best to start with blotters, or scent strips. These are usually provided near fragrance display bottles and are made from absorbent, porous paper that allows perfumes to be quickly absorbed, giving you an accurate reading of the scent. Spray the fragrance onto the strip and hold it a small distance away from your nose before inhaling. This will allow you to get a sense of the perfume's top notes.
Once you've narrowed down your options using blotters, you can try your favourite fragrances on your skin. Spray the perfume on your wrist or the back of your hand, and wait at least 30 seconds for the scent to settle. You can then bring your hand up to your nose and inhale. It's important to avoid rubbing your wrists together, as this can break down the fragrance and alter its scent.
After testing on your skin, give the perfume some time to develop. Browse the shop, grab a coffee, or go for a walk. Then, after 15-30 minutes, smell the fragrance again to see how it has evolved. A perfume's quality is not determined by its strength, but by its chemistry with your body. The warmth of your skin, its natural oils, and chemistry will react with the perfume to create a scent that is unique to you.
If possible, get samples of your favourite fragrances and wear them for a few days to experience the full olfactive life cycle of the perfume and make an informed decision about whether it's the one for you.
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Frequently asked questions
The best way to test perfumes is by wearing them on your skin. Your unique body chemistry interacts with the scent, giving you a true idea of how it will smell on you.
Paper blotters or scent strips are a good way to test perfumes in a store. Spray the strip with the fragrance and wave it under your nose to smell it.
It's recommended that you test no more than three perfumes at a time. Your sense of smell can only handle about three scents before it gets confused.
It's a myth that smelling coffee beans will reset your sense of smell. Instead, try sniffing your own skin or clothes, or take a break of a few minutes between perfumes.
Avoid wearing other fragrances or strong deodorants when testing perfumes, as these will interfere with the test. Allow the scent to settle on your skin and develop over time—don't rub your wrists together, as this can alter the scent.
