Anisha Riggs
Choosing a fragrance is a highly personal endeavour, and it can be tempting to smell every bottle of perfume or cologne on offer. However, it is easy to overload your sense of smell when trying a variety of fragrances, so it is important to approach the process in a structured way. This involves understanding how to test a scent, as well as how to train your nose to identify different notes.
How to Smell a Fragrance
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Where to start | Paper blotters/strips (Mouillettes) are the best way to start testing a fragrance. |
| Blotter technique | Spray 2-3 times in a downward motion into a cloud, pass the blotter through the cloud, and let it absorb. Wave under your nose without touching, and close your eyes and inhale. |
| Skin testing | Spray your wrist or forearm and wait 20-30 seconds before smelling. |
| Number of fragrances | Try no more than 3 fragrances in one sitting, as your sense of smell can only handle a few scents before getting confused. |
| Time of day | Test fragrances earlier in the day, as your sense of smell is sharpest in the morning. |
| Time taken | Take your time – a fragrance you love in the store may not be what you love at home. |
| Coffee | Use coffee beans to reset your olfactory palate between fragrances. |
| Skin type | Dryness of skin can impact how long a fragrance lasts and which notes it brings out. |
| Memory | Your childhood experiences can influence your perfume tastes as an adult. |
| Reviews | Reading reviews can be helpful, but may not identify the right fragrance for your individual preference. |
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What You'll Learn
Try blotters/paper strips first
Blotters, also known as scent strips or mouillettes, are used by perfumers in the process of creation and by consumers to test a fragrance. Testing a fragrance on a blotter is a better alternative to judging a fragrance by how it smells out of the bottle. Blotter strips provide a neutral medium for smelling and evaluating the aromatic compounds, providing a truer, more complete impression of the fragrance.
When you smell a perfume or fragrance directly from the bottle, you're primarily smelling the top notes of a scent. These are generally the first notes we smell, but they are also the notes that fade the fastest. The middle notes, or the heart of the scent, balance out the top and base notes. The middle notes are usually the most prominent aromas you will smell when a candle is burning. The base notes will tend to linger in a room and leave a lasting impression of the scent. By testing fragrances on a blotter strip, you can unlock the middle and base notes to get a more accurate impression of how the fragrance will smell once it's in a wax or soap base.
If you want to test how fragrances would smell when blended, use two blotters. For a 50/50 mix, dip both blotters to the first line and hold them together while evaluating the scents. To represent a particular scent more strongly, dip that fragrance up to the second line. For the best representation of your fragrance blend, use the strips on the same day, as fragrances can shift over time.
When testing fragrances, it is important to do so in a clean and tranquil environment, free from distracting scents. You should also be mindful that the nose can play tricks when testing scents, as it quickly adjusts to a new scent and desensitizes itself.
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Test on skin
Testing a fragrance on your skin is the best way to determine whether it's the right scent for you. Paper blotters can be useful for getting a first impression of a perfume, but they can alter the scent. The warmth of your skin, your skin's natural oils, and its flora will react with the perfume to create a scent that is unique to you.
When testing a fragrance on your skin, it's important to choose the right location. Your wrists and the back of your hands are good options, as they are pulse points that are naturally warm due to the veins underneath. This means the fragrance will react more readily with your skin. You could also try your forearms, but be aware that the more parts of your body you spray, the higher the chances are that different fragrances will contaminate each other.
To test a fragrance on your skin, spray it onto your chosen location from a distance of about 20 cm, using a downward motion. Two spritzes should be enough. Then, drop your hand to your side and wait at least 30 seconds for the scent to settle. Once it has started to dry, bring your hand up and inhale the fragrance without touching your wrist or hand to your nose. Keep your nose at least an inch or two away from your skin.
After testing the fragrance, take some time to do something else. This will allow the fragrance to interact with your body's natural chemistry and develop over time. Periodically take a sniff to see how the scent changes and evolves throughout the day. Remember, a fragrance will go through its full olfactive life cycle on your skin, so make sure you still love it towards the end of the day when only the base notes are present.
If you're testing multiple fragrances, it's important to give your nose a break in between. You may want to use olfactory palate cleansers, such as coffee beans, to reset your nose. However, some scientists have challenged the effectiveness of coffee beans, and they may not work well with gourmand or oriental fragrances. An alternative is to simply smell your own skin to give your nose a reset.
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Take your time
When testing a fragrance, it's important to take your time. Something you may love in the store may not be what you love at home, so it's recommended to do something else after spraying the perfume on your wrist and allow the fragrance to play with your body's natural chemistry. Over time, the fragrance will deepen as you experience each of the levels of notes in its formulation.
After testing on your skin, go for a walk, run an errand, or grab a coffee. Then, after 15-30 minutes (or longer), smell your wrist or the back of your hand to see how the fragrance has developed. You should also try testing scents earlier in the day, as our sense of smell usually peaks in the morning, and that's when you'll be sharpest.
If you're testing multiple fragrances, it's a good idea to limit yourself to three fragrances on blotters on a given day. Your sense of smell can only handle about three scents well before it begins to get confused. Use olfactory palate cleansers, such as coffee beans, to reset your sense of smell between fragrances. If there aren't any coffee beans on hand, you can also try smelling your own clean skin.
When testing a fragrance, it's important to remember that what may smell great on a paper blotter might not work on your skin. You must always test perfume on your own skin. Once you've found a fragrance you love on your skin, buy it. It's the one for you.
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Avoid wearing other fragrances
When it comes to smelling good, it's important to remember that less is more. Wearing too many fragrances at once can be overwhelming and may result in an unpleasant combination of scents. Here are some tips to avoid wearing too many fragrances:
Firstly, it's crucial to understand that fragrances interact with our natural body scent. Our bodies have unique and individual scents, and perfumes can enhance or clash with our natural musk. Pungent foods like onion, garlic, mustard, and alcohol can negatively impact our natural scent by releasing an odour through our pores for hours after consumption. Therefore, it's advisable to limit these foods and drinks if you want to maintain a pleasant fragrance without relying heavily on perfumes.
Secondly, opt for naturally scented products in your skincare and shower routine. Body washes, oils, and moisturisers with subtle fragrances can contribute to a pleasant aroma without being overpowering. Essential oils are also a great option, as they offer physiological benefits and can enhance your natural scent when combined with a carrier oil.
Additionally, deodorant is a crucial part of maintaining a pleasant fragrance. It helps combat body odour and can even block sweat, ensuring you smell fresh throughout the day. When choosing a deodorant, look for one that suits your needs, whether clinical strength or a natural option.
Lastly, be mindful of the fragrances you use in your environment. Scented candles, room sprays, and linen sprays can all contribute to your overall fragrance. While these can enhance your scent, be cautious not to overuse them, as they can be overwhelming and clash with your chosen perfume.
Remember, smelling good is about finding a balance between enhancing your natural scent and incorporating subtle fragrances into your routine. By avoiding wearing too many fragrances at once, you can prevent clashes and create a more harmonious and appealing aroma.
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Trust your nose
When testing a new fragrance, it's a good idea to start with a scent blotter or paper strip. These are usually freely available in perfumeries or department stores. The strips are made from absorbent, porous paper, allowing the perfume to be quickly absorbed so you can get a sense of the fragrance. Spray the strip a couple of times, wave it under your nose, close your eyes, and inhale. You can also keep the strips and smell them later to see how the perfume develops over time.
However, remember that the strips only offer a glimpse of the perfume. The scent will react differently once applied to your skin, so it's important to test it on your body too. Spray the fragrance on your wrist or the back of your hand and wait at least 20 seconds before inhaling. You can also leave it for half an hour or more to see how the perfume works with your body chemistry. The same fragrance can smell very different on three people.
If you're testing multiple fragrances, it's best to limit yourself to three at a time, as your sense of smell can only handle a few scents before it gets confused. You can use olfactory palate cleansers like coffee beans to reset your nose between fragrances.
Finally, take your time when choosing a new fragrance. Something you love in the store may not be what you love at home, so it's worth testing the scent earlier in the day when your sense of smell is at its peak and then going about your day to see how the fragrance develops.
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Frequently asked questions
The best way to test a fragrance is to use a blotting paper (paper strips) to spray the perfume on and then wave it under your nose. This way, you can test multiple fragrances without them interacting with your skin or each other. You can also spray the perfume on your wrist or forearm and see how the smell develops over time.
It is recommended that you test no more than three fragrances at a time, as your sense of smell can only handle about three scents before it gets confused.
Choosing a scent is a personal experience, so trust your nose and listen to your senses. You can also read fragrance reviews to get an idea of what others think, but ultimately, you should choose a fragrance that you love and that suits your body chemistry.
