Anisha Riggs
Choosing a perfume can be a daunting task, especially if you're looking to buy a small amount. The key is to find a scent that reflects your personality and suits your preferences. It's important to consider the different notes in a perfume, which are the layers of scent that come through at different times after application. These include top notes, middle notes, and base notes, with each type of note consisting of different scent profiles. For example, fruity or aromatic notes are usually top notes, while vanilla and ambery notes are base notes. It's a good idea to test a small amount of perfume on your skin to see how it interacts with your body chemistry before committing to a purchase. You can also use sampler sets or online services to help you find your signature scent.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Number of perfumes to test in one session | Maximum of three |
| Testing method | Spray on blotter sheets, wrist or elbow |
| Testing time | 10 seconds to a few hours |
| Skin type | Different levels of natural oils and pH balance |
| Perfume type | Eau de parfum, Eau de toilette, Extrait de parfum, Cologne |
| Scent profile | Chypre, floral, fougère, ambrée |
| Notes | Top, middle, base |
| Pulse points | Wrists, neck, behind ears |
| Number of sprays | Two to three |
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What You'll Learn
Understand scent profiles and fragrance families
The first step to selecting a perfume is to understand the different scent profiles and fragrance families. This is important because people are often drawn to certain types of scents, and knowing which family you are attracted to can help you choose a new scent.
The fragrance wheel is a circular diagram that illustrates the four main scent families: woody, floral, amber (previously known as oriental), and fresh. These families are determined by their similarities and differences, with families that share common olfactory characteristics placed next to one another. The wheel was invented by scent expert Michael Edwards and is used by perfumers and fragrance lovers alike.
The floral family is one of the most common and popular, often used in women's fragrances, although it is occasionally found in men's. These fragrances typically smell like fresh-cut flowers or have a powdery, sweet, and flowery note, with notes such as roses, jasmine, lilies, and peonies.
The amber/oriental family includes herbs, spices, and dry, powdery, and resinous notes. These scents can be described as sensual, warm, and exotic. Amber notes are a mix of resins that produce a warm, sweet, and deep scent, while some oriental fragrances are made with interesting notes of cardamom, cinnamon, and vanilla.
The woody family includes warm and opulent scents, mixing incense-like fragrances like sandalwood and patchouli with drier notes like cedar. Woody fragrances are favoured for wear after dark and are often found in aftershaves.
The fresh family is defined by zingy, aromatic compositions backed with underlying woody notes. This family includes bright, herby, citrusy, clean, and oceanic scents.
Each family has its own subfamilies, and it is possible to blend primary and secondary notes from different families to create unique fragrances. For example, a floral scent with the addition of certain notes will become a soft floral.
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Sample perfumes on blotter sheets and skin
Blotter sheets, also known as test blotters or smelling strips, are commonly used by perfumers to evaluate scents over time. They are useful for testing multiple fragrances without having to apply them to the skin. This method can help you narrow down a few favourites before testing them on your skin.
When using blotter sheets, it is important to test in a clean and tranquil environment, free from distracting scents. Ensure that you only dip a small amount of the sample fragrance onto the blotter sheet. It is worth noting that your nose will quickly adjust to a new scent, so you may find it helpful to keep a third blotter sheet with a strong, different aroma to help your nose "forget" the previous scent.
You can make your own blotter sheets by cutting a cheap sketch pad into strips. Alternatively, you can use a piece of carton, postcard, or even a segment of toilet paper.
Once you have found a scent that you like using blotter sheets, the next step is to test it on your skin. This is important because every perfume will react differently with the warmth, flora, and natural oils of your skin, creating a scent that is unique to you. The fragrance will also go through its full olfactive life cycle on your skin, allowing you to experience the top, middle, and base notes.
When testing perfume on your skin, make sure your skin is warm and clean, as open pores react with the fragrance more readily. Spray the perfume towards your pulse points, such as your wrists, as these areas are naturally warm. Avoid rubbing the perfume into your skin, as it can alter the scent's composition. Instead, let it dry naturally and inhale the top notes without touching your nose to the spot. You can periodically take a sniff to observe how the scent develops and changes throughout the day.
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Consider your skin's natural oils and pH balance
When selecting a perfume, it's important to consider your skin's natural oils and pH balance. Perfumes are volatile and tend to evaporate over time, but the speed of this evaporation process depends on your skin type and chemistry.
Firstly, let's talk about skin types. If you have oily skin, fragrances will typically last longer on your skin because the natural oils mix with the perfume, creating a heavier composition that slows down evaporation. However, oily skin can also amplify the intensity of the fragrance. So, if you have oily skin, you might want to opt for lighter scents. On the other hand, if you have dry skin, perfumes may not last as long, and you might want to consider applying lotion or moisturiser after spraying your perfume to help retain the fragrance.
Now, let's discuss skin pH. All skin is naturally acidic, typically ranging from 4.7 to 5.75 pH, which is considered slightly acidic. This acidity is called the acid mantle and forms a protective barrier on your skin. The exact pH of your skin can affect how different fragrance notes are expressed. For example, if your skin is on the more acidic end of the spectrum, floral notes might be enhanced, while woody notes might be subdued. Conversely, if your skin is less acidic, you might find that woody notes are more pronounced.
Your skin's natural oils and pH levels are just one aspect of your unique skin chemistry, which is influenced by various factors such as body temperature, diet, hormones, and microbiome. These factors can all impact how a perfume interacts with your skin and how it evolves throughout the day. For instance, if you naturally run warm, fragrances might develop more quickly and not last as long. Similarly, hormonal fluctuations can alter your body's chemistry, affecting skin pH and oil production, which can change how your perfume performs. Even your diet can play a role, as certain foods with strong aromas can be excreted through your pores, mingling with your perfume.
So, when choosing a perfume, consider your skin's natural oils and pH balance by testing how different fragrances interact with your skin. Pay attention to patterns and take note of which fragrance families work well with your skin chemistry. You might find that certain scents disappear quickly, become too dominant, or smell differently throughout the day. By understanding how your skin influences your scent, you can make more informed choices when selecting a perfume.
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Assess the perfume's strength and concentration
When selecting a perfume, it's important to understand its concentration levels and strength to ensure it suits your style and personality. The fragrance concentration of a perfume refers to its strength, and the higher the concentration, the purer the fragrance. Perfumes with higher concentrations contain more perfume oils and less alcohol, making them more expensive. They also tend to have greater longevity, lasting up to 12 hours or more, and in some cases, up to 24 hours.
To increase the concentration of a perfume, the alcohol content is reduced, and the concentration of essential oils or aromatic oils is increased. The percentage concentration of the original perfume blend in its diluent (alcohol or carrier oil) is a quick way to assess its likely strength and impact on the wearer and those around them. However, concentration doesn't always equate to the impact of the fragrance, and each fragrance brand may have its own definition of strength.
There are several types of perfumes differentiated by their concentration levels, including:
- Eau Fraiche: This has the lowest perfume strength, with 1-3% perfume concentrate to alcohol and/or water-based diluent. It is similar to refreshing colognes or body mists and is intended for frequent daily use.
- Eau de Cologne (EDC): With a concentration of around 2-5%, this type of perfume has a lasting power of about two hours.
- Eau de Toilette: This type of perfume has a concentration ranging from 5-15% and lasts for about three to four hours. It is one of the most popular strengths for daily wear.
- Eau de Parfum: With a concentration of 15-20% aromatic oils, this type of perfume balances concentration and quality. It is one of the most popular variations, often worn in the evenings or on nights out. It has a long-lasting scent, maintaining its aroma for about 6 to 8 hours.
- Extrait de Parfum/Pure Parfum: This is the highest concentration of perfume, with essential oil percentages ranging from 20-40%. It is known for its strong scent, high stability, and distinctive aromatic effectiveness. Due to its high concentration, it is more expensive.
When choosing a perfume, consider the desired strength and longevity, as well as your budget and skin sensitivity. The concentration level will impact the intensity and average longevity of the fragrance.
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Think about the context in which you'll wear the perfume
When selecting a perfume, it is important to think about the context in which you'll wear it. This can help you choose the right fragrance for your needs. Here are some factors to consider:
Occasion
Consider whether you want a perfume for everyday use or for special occasions. If you're looking for a signature scent, something that reflects your personality and leaves a memorable impression can be a good choice. You might opt for something more unique and head-turning, or a scent that makes you feel confident and grounded, like a woody or musky fragrance. If you're looking for a perfume for special occasions, you might want something that makes you feel extra pretty and inviting, like a sweet or gourmand fragrance.
Time of day
The time of day you'll be wearing the perfume can also play a role in your choice. For example, citrus fragrances are often associated with daytime wear, providing a quick pick-me-up with their bright and energetic notes. On the other hand, oriental fragrances are often seen as more suitable for evening wear, adding a touch of seduction and mystery to your scent.
Activities
Think about the activities you'll be doing while wearing the perfume. If you're drawn to the outdoors and enjoy hiking or camping, you might prefer a fresh and clean scent that reflects your love for nature. If you're more of a homebody, cosy fragrances like spices, ginger, cinnamon or cloves might be more appealing, creating a warm and inviting atmosphere.
Season
The season can also influence your perfume choice. During spring and summer, you might opt for fresher, lighter fragrances, while autumn and winter might call for warmer, spicier scents.
Mood
Perfumes can also be chosen to match your mood or the emotion you want to convey. For example, floral fragrances are often associated with sophistication and softness, making them a good choice for more formal occasions or when you want to make a gentle impression. Citrus fragrances can add a dynamic and energetic touch to your day, while oriental fragrances can be chosen to embrace your enigmatic side.
When selecting a perfume, it's a good idea to test out different fragrances and consider the context in which you'll be wearing them. This will help you find a scent that truly resonates with you and suits your needs.
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Frequently asked questions
First, you should decide on the type of scent you want. Do you prefer florals, crisp citrus, or warm amber? You can then look for perfumes that contain these notes. If you're buying in-store, you can ask for help from a salesperson in finding a perfume that matches your preferences.
You can ask for a sample in-store, or spray a small amount on a blotter sheet or your wrist to smell later.
You should test the perfume on your skin, as the scent can change when it comes into contact with your body chemistry. You should also test it over 24 hours to understand how the scent develops on your skin over time.
Sampler sets from stores like Sephora or Ulta contain sample or travel-sized bottles of multiple perfumes. You can then purchase a full-sized bottle of your favourite.
