The Manly Art Of Applying Cologne

Fragrance is an important part of a man's personal style. It influences how people perceive and remember you. The sense of smell is much more sensitive than vision and triggers memories better than any other sense. It is connected to our memory and we can develop deep connections to our emotions through it. Therefore, wearing a fragrance is a distinctive way of expressing yourself beyond the visual. It makes you memorable and forms an impression.

Choosing a cologne that suits your body chemistry

The cologne that you choose should complement your natural body odour. Scientific studies suggest that a man can naturally select the cologne that works best with his natural body scent.

Determining your skin type and pH level

Your skin type and pH level play a crucial role in choosing a cologne. These factors guide you towards fragrances that complement your unique body chemistry. For instance, oily skin retains scents longer and pairs well with oriental, heavy fragrances or those with spices, sweetness, balsamic, musky, and leathery notes. On the other hand, dry skin may benefit from more citrusy, green, ozonic, aromatic, fruity, floral, and woody notes.

Understanding fragrance families

Perfumes are categorized into fragrance families such as floral, woody, oriental, leather, fruity, musky, sweet, aromatic, and fresh. Each family has its own unique characteristics, and by exploring different families, you can find the fragrances that align with your personal preferences and style.

Testing perfume on your skin

When testing perfumes, apply them to your pulse points and allow them to develop on your skin for a few hours. Observe how the scent evolves during this time. Fragrances have a three-part life cycle: top, medium, and base notes. The scent will change as the notes dry up, allowing the fragrance to evolve and become more interesting.

Choosing a fragrance for your age

Consider your age when selecting a cologne. For younger individuals, opt for lighter, fresher scents. As you mature, embrace more sophisticated fragrances with rich and complex notes. However, don't feel limited by age; choose scents that align with your personal taste and make you feel confident.

Tips for buying and wearing your cologne

Once you've found the right cologne, there are a few things to keep in mind:

• Store your cologne in a cool, dark, and dry place to prolong its lifespan.
• Apply cologne to heat areas of your body, such as your chest, neck, and wrist, to create a scent trail.
• Start with a light application and add more sprays as needed.
• Avoid rubbing the cologne into your skin, as this can weaken the scent.
• Don't spray it on your clothes, as it won't mix with your body oils or go through the natural stages of notes.

Applying cologne to pulse points

Pulse points are areas on your body where your heart pulse can be felt. These are the best spots to apply cologne, due to the warmth of your blood. The pulse points are located behind your ear, at the bottom of your throat, on your wrist, inside your elbow, and behind your knee.

How to apply cologne to pulse points

• Spray or dab the cologne onto the pulse point.
• Using your wrist, press the cologne into your skin so that it sits below the skin at the pulse point, rather than above the skin where it will slowly die away over the day.
• If you are applying cologne to your wrist, you can also use your wrist to apply a small amount behind your ear.
• If you are wearing shorts or a dress, apply a small amount of cologne behind your knees.
• Do not spray cologne onto your clothes, as it can stain garments and the scent can become distorted when mixed with fabrics.

How much cologne to apply to pulse points

Less is more when it comes to cologne. It is better to start with a small amount and slowly add more if needed. One spritz to each pulse point is best practice.

Solid cologne vs spray cologne

Solid colognes, also known as "hard" or "dry" colognes, have become more popular in recent years due to their portability and subtlety. They are created by mixing scent in a wax base, which is typically hard at room temperature and applied using the fingertips. Solid colognes are often sold in small tins, making them easy to carry and great for travel. They also tend to last a long time since only a small amount is needed per application. However, some people find that solid cologne doesn't last as long as its liquid counterpart and that it can be affected by skin chemistry. Additionally, solid colognes may melt in high temperatures and can leave a residue that exacerbates fragrance-related skin irritation.

Liquid colognes, on the other hand, are typically sold in spray bottles and are a mix of alcohol, water, and fragrance molecules. The ratio of alcohol to fragrance depends on the perfume strength, with parfum being the most concentrated and body sprays being the least. Spray colognes generally smell stronger and last longer than solid colognes due to the different carrier methods. They are also more affordable and widely available. However, they are less portable and can be tricky to travel with, especially when flying due to liquid restrictions. Additionally, once applied, it can be challenging to remove the scent if needed.

Ultimately, the choice between solid and spray cologne comes down to personal preference and when and where you plan to wear it. Solid colognes are ideal for those who want something portable, subtle, and long-lasting. In contrast, spray colognes are better suited for those who want a stronger, more affordable option and don't mind the lack of portability.

Common mistakes to avoid

Overuse

One of the most common mistakes men make when it comes to cologne is overusing it. While cologne can be a great way to enhance your personal style and make a lasting impression, too much can be overwhelming and off-putting. It's important to remember that fragrance should be discovered, not announced.

Spraying on Clothes

Another mistake is spraying cologne directly onto your clothes. This doesn't allow the fragrance to mix with your body's natural oils, preventing it from going through its intended stages of notes. Additionally, the oils in cologne can stain fabrics.

Rubbing the Perfume

You might think that rubbing the perfume into your skin will help it absorb better, but in reality, it does the opposite. Rubbing perfume breaks the molecular bond, making the scent weaker. Instead, hold the spray nozzle 3-6 inches away from your skin and let it dry naturally.

Blind Buying

Don't buy a cologne just because someone recommended it without trying it yourself. Fragrances smell different on everyone, so it's important to test how it interacts with your body's natural chemistry before committing to a bottle.

Storing Incorrectly

Fragrances are sensitive to heat and light, so storing them in a cool, dark place like a bedroom closet is ideal. Avoid bathrooms, where rapid heat fluctuations can cause the fragrance molecules to break down, and windowsills, where sunlight can have the same effect.

Understanding fragrance components

Fragrances are complex mixtures of "raw materials", which can be extracts from natural sources or synthetic. Perfumed oils are dissolved in a solvent (usually alcohol) to preserve a pleasant concoction of scents. A higher concentration of oils usually means a stronger fragrance. The strength of the fragrance determines how long it lasts on your skin.

The Life Cycle of Fragrances

Fragrances have what is known as a three-part life cycle. This can be thought of as an evaporating pyramid, where the top slowly disappears until you reach the base. Each of the three sections contains individual scents, or notes, that come together to form the overall fragrance.

Types of Notes

There are three types of notes that make up most fragrances: top, medium, and base notes.

• Top notes are the initial, lighter smell of the fragrance that hits the nose immediately after application. They last from 15 minutes to 2 hours and can include light floral, citrus, fruity, powdery, marine, aquatic, and spicy scents.
• Medium notes, also called heart or middle notes, develop after the top note clears and can last 3-5 hours after being sprayed. They build off the top note and include heavier floral, green, and spice scents, as well as fruits.
• Base notes are the last to develop and are often the bolder notes of the fragrance, becoming more noticeable later in the day. They lay the foundation and determine how long the fragrance lasts on the skin, typically 5 to 10 hours. Common base notes include sandalwood, moss, vetiver, vanilla, tar, leather, smoke, tobacco, and musk.

Linear vs. Non-Linear Fragrances

Some fragrances are linear, meaning they smell the same from the initial spray until they are washed off. Non-linear fragrances, on the other hand, change and go through the layers of notes over time. Most quality fragrances are non-linear, while cheap perfumes tend to be linear.

Types of Fragrances

Fragrances can be classified into two main types: designer and niche.

• Designer fragrances are mass-produced by companies like Armani, Chanel, and Burberry, and tend to be designed for mass consumption. They are typically made from cheaper materials to save costs and enable volume production.
• Niche fragrances are usually made from more expensive/higher-quality ingredients and are created for a more selective customer who wants something unique. They are sought out by fragrance aficionados and tend to be more expensive.

Strength of Fragrances

The strength of a fragrance is determined by the amount of perfume oil it contains. The different types of fragrances, from weakest to strongest, are:

• Eau Fraiche: 1-3% perfume oil in alcohol and water. Lasts less than an hour.
• Eau de Cologne: 2-4% perfume oils in alcohol and water. Lasts about 2 hours.
• Eau de Toilette: 5-15% pure perfume essence dissolved in alcohol. Lasts about 3 hours.
• Eau de Parfum: 15-20% pure perfume essence. Lasts about 5 to 8 hours.
• Parfum: 20-30% pure perfume essence. Lasts up to 24 hours.

Application Tips

When applying fragrances, it is important to start light, especially if you are new to wearing them. Spray perfume on dry skin, preferably right after a shower, and hold the nozzle 3-6 inches away. Apply to heat areas of the body, such as the chest, neck, and wrist, to allow your body heat to push the scent throughout the day. Remember, less is more!

Frequently asked questions