Antonio Mcgowan
Mixing notes in DIY perfume is a fun and creative process that allows you to create unique fragrances that suit your taste and personality. The process involves blending different notes, including top notes, middle notes, and base notes, to create a harmonious and pleasing scent. The type of notes you choose and the way you combine them will determine the overall character and evolution of your perfume. You can use essential oils, fragrance oils, infused oils, and even food-grade flavour extracts to create your desired scent. The process of mixing notes involves experimenting with different ratios, adding bridge notes, and diluting with a carrier, such as alcohol or oil, to create a well-rounded and long-lasting fragrance.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Number of notes | 3 (top, middle, base) or more |
| Ratio of notes | 20% base, 50% middle, 30% top or 20% top, 30% middle, 50% base |
| Order of addition | Base first, then middle, then top |
| Bridge notes | Lavender, vanilla, vitamin E, jojoba oil |
| Carrier | Fractionated coconut oil, perfumer's alcohol, jojoba oil, sandalwood, sweet almond, grape seed oil |
| Additional ingredients | Glycerine, distilled/spring water |
| Storage | Protect from light, use aluminium foil or wrapping paper |
| Testing | Use fragrance strips, nasal fatigue can be "cleansed" by smelling coffee |
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What You'll Learn
Blending by note
Top notes are the first impression of a perfume and evaporate quickly, so they are emotionally uplifting scents. Examples include lemon, orange, grapefruit, lime, bergamot, spearmint, and peppermint. The ideal ratio for top notes is around 20-30%.
Middle notes, also known as heart or bouquet notes, form the core of the scent. They usually evaporate within two to four hours, leaving the base note to react with the skin. Scents like coriander, palmarosa, marjoram, basil, rosemary, rose geranium, lavender, and pettitgrain fall under this category. The middle notes should make up about 30-50% of the blend.
Base notes are the foundation of the perfume and linger the longest on the skin. Common base notes include patchouli, vetiver, frankincense, cedarwood, sandalwood, vanilla, and other woodsy scents. This note should comprise about 20% of the blend.
When blending by note, it is recommended to select no more than three to five oils total from the three note families, with a ratio of 1:1:1, 3:2:1, or 4:2:1. The top note will be the first aroma you smell, while the middle note will become clearer over time, and the base note will be the lingering scent.
Additionally, a few drops of a "bridge note," such as lavender, vanilla, vitamin E, or jojoba oil, can be added to help the other notes blend more smoothly.
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Carrier oils
Fractionated coconut oil is a popular choice for a carrier oil. Unlike regular coconut oil, it remains liquid at all temperatures and has a longer shelf life. It is lightweight, non-greasy, and its sweet, energizing aroma gives people a wonderful and energizing scent.
Sweet almond oil is another option, celebrated for its soft and subtle scent. This oil is a good choice for individuals with sensitive skin.
Apricot seed oil has a light and silky texture, blending seamlessly with essential oils to create enchanting fragrances. Its faint, sweet aroma adds a subtle and pleasing note to the perfume without overpowering the scent of essential oils.
Mango seed oil adds a touch of freshness to scents, making it ideal for daytime and summer-inspired perfumes. Its subtle sweetness harmonizes well with floral and citrusy essential oils, creating a vibrant and invigorating perfume.
Rosehip oil, derived from the seeds of wild roses, is renowned for its elegant and delicate scent. It adds depth and complexity to any perfume composition.
Other carrier oils include sunflower oil, avocado oil, jojoba oil, and kumkumadi oil.
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Ratios
When mixing your own perfume, you should aim for a harmonious blend of notes. The ideal ratio for blending notes is 20% to 30% top notes, 30% to 50% middle or heart notes, and 20% to 50% base notes. The top note is the first impression of your perfume, which you smell immediately, and it disappears relatively quickly. The middle note forms the core of your scent and usually evaporates within a few hours. The base note is the foundation of your perfume and lingers the longest on your skin.
Some sources suggest starting with a simple 1:1:1 ratio of top, middle, and base notes. Others recommend a 3:2:1 ratio, or even a 4:2:1 ratio, to emphasise the top note.
When creating your blend, it is recommended to add the base notes first, followed by the middle notes, and finally the top notes. This allows the perfume to develop and change over time as it sits on the skin.
You can fine-tune your blend by adding a ""bridge note" at the end, such as lavender, vanilla, or a carrier oil like vitamin E or jojoba oil. These mild scents help the other notes blend smoothly and can extend the life of your perfume by preventing evaporation.
To measure your ingredients, small amounts can be counted by drops, while larger amounts can be weighed with a scale or a graduated cylinder. It is important to keep track of your formula, including the date of creation, the name of your fragrance, and the specific notes and their ratios.
Once you have designed your blend, you can dilute it with a carrier such as fractionated coconut oil or perfumer's alcohol. Allow your blend to sit for a few days or even a few months, as this will help the different notes mature and develop.
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Bridge notes
When creating a perfume, bridge notes, also known as heart or middle notes, are crucial in ensuring a seamless transition between the different layers of the perfume. These notes fill in any holes in the fragrance, creating a coherent and harmonious scent.
Floral, fruity, and spice-based ingredients are commonly used as bridge notes. Popular choices include jasmine, rose, cinnamon, and cardamom. These notes provide a smooth transition between the different stages of the fragrance, creating a complex and captivating scent journey.
When blending bridge notes, it is recommended to use a ratio of 20% top notes, 30% heart notes, and 50% base notes. However, you can adjust these ratios according to your preferences and the desired effect. The key is to create a seamless transition between the different notes, allowing the fragrance to unfold and evolve beautifully over time.
In addition to the choice of notes, the order in which they are added is also important. When mixing your perfume, start by adding your base notes, followed by the middle or bridge notes, and finally, the top notes. This will ensure a smooth and harmonious blend that captivates and lingers.
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Testing
When you are happy with your blend, you can dilute it with a carrier such as fractionated coconut oil or perfumer's alcohol. You can also use vodka, which is a popular choice among DIY perfumers. If you are making a perfume spray, you will need to add water. You should add approximately 5 drops of glycerine to help preserve the fragrance.
If you are using clear bottles, you will need to cover them with aluminium foil or wrapping paper to protect the fragrance from light. You can also use coloured glass bottles. You should sterilise the bottles and jars, especially if you are reusing them.
Once you have poured your perfume into the bottle, you should let it sit for at least a month. After this time, you can spritz a little on your pressure points to test it. The alcohol smell should dissipate after a few seconds, leaving only the scent of the perfume notes. If the alcohol is all you can smell, you may have added too much, or you may need to let the perfume sit for longer. Three months is often considered the "sweet spot" for an ideal perfume.
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Frequently asked questions
Notes refer to the different scents in a perfume. They are usually divided into three categories: top, middle, and base notes. Top notes are the first impression of a perfume and evaporate quickly, while base notes linger the longest on the skin.
Top notes include scents like lemon, orange, grapefruit, and peppermint. Middle notes include coriander, palmarosa, lavender, and rose. Base notes include patchouli, cedarwood, and vanilla.
The ideal ratio is generally recommended as 20% base notes, 30% middle notes, and 50% top notes. However, some sources suggest a 1:1:1 ratio or other variations like 3:2:1 or 4:2:1.
You will need essential oils or fragrance oils for the different notes, a carrier oil such as jojoba, sweet almond, or grape seed oil, and high-quality alcohol like vodka to help merge the ingredients. You will also need clean bottles and droppers for measuring and mixing.
Start with your base notes and gradually add middle and top notes. Make sure to consider the strength of each scent to avoid overpowering other notes. You can also add a few drops of a ""bridge note" like lavender or vanilla to help the other notes blend smoothly. Most importantly, follow your nose and create a scent that you enjoy!
