Seamus Hammond
Creating perfume is an art that combines science and intuition. The process of perfume manufacturing has evolved over the years, with ancient civilizations using methods like enfleurage and distillation to extract oils from plants and animals. Today, the introduction of synthetic chemicals has simplified and accelerated the process, allowing for a wider range of scents and affordable prices. The basic recipe for perfume involves blending top, middle, and base notes with a carrier oil and alcohol, allowing it to macerate, and then diluting it with water and glycerine. With the right ingredients and techniques, anyone can craft their signature scent or recreate popular fragrances.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Ingredients | Essential oils, flower petals, leaves, herbs, alcohol, coal, tars, petrochemicals, plant and animal-based oils, synthetic chemicals, etc. |
| Notes | Top, middle, and base notes. Top notes are the initial scent and disappear within 10-15 minutes. Middle notes form the core of the perfume and determine its family (floral, oriental, woody, fresh, etc.). Base notes create an enduring fragrance. |
| Ratio | 30% top notes, 50% middle notes, and 20% base notes. |
| Carrier | Popular carrier oils include sandalwood, jojoba, sweet almond, and grape seed oil. Alcohol is also commonly used as it evaporates quickly. |
| Process | Gather and extract ingredients, mix notes in the correct ratio, add carrier, and allow the mixture to settle and mature. |
| Bottling | Use dark glass bottles to protect the perfume from light, which can shorten its lifespan. |
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What You'll Learn
Sourcing ingredients
When it comes to creating your own perfume, it is recommended to use a scale to measure your ingredients accurately. A small 0.01-gram precision scale is a good starting point, and you can upgrade to a more precise scale later on. You can find mini scales online at a reasonable price, or invest in a professional-grade scale if your budget allows.
The next step is to decide on the notes you want to include in your perfume. Notes refer to the different levels of scent in a perfume, with top notes being the initial scent, middle notes forming the core of the fragrance, and base notes providing an enduring foundation. Common top notes include citrus scents like lemon, orange, and bergamot, while middle notes can include coriander, lavender, and rosemary. Base notes such as patchouli, vetiver, and cedarwood add depth and longevity to the fragrance.
Once you have selected your notes, you can begin blending them with a carrier oil such as sandalwood, jojoba, sweet almond, or grape seed oil. Alcohol is often used to help merge the ingredients and diffuse the perfume's notes, with vodka being a popular choice for DIY perfumers.
In addition to natural ingredients, synthetic chemicals are also commonly used in perfume manufacturing. Synthetic perfumes are created in laboratories by perfume chemists, and they can be used to recreate natural scents or create original fragrances not found in nature.
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Extraction methods
Extraction is a fundamental aspect of perfumery, requiring an understanding of both nature and science. Various methods are used to capture the essence of flowers, woods, resins, and more. Each technique brings out unique facets of an ingredient, shaping the character and richness of a fragrance.
One of the most popular methods for extracting aromatics in the modern perfume industry is organic solvent extraction. Raw materials are submerged and agitated in a solvent, such as hexane or ethanol, that can dissolve the desired aromatic compounds. The extract is then subjected to vacuum processing to remove the solvent for re-use. This method is particularly useful for extracting delicate and heat-sensitive compounds from flowers like jasmine and tuberose.
Another traditional method is enfleurage, which is one of the oldest techniques for extracting oils from flowers using fat. It is a time-consuming and costly process, requiring flowers to be pressed into glass sheets coated with fat for days to absorb their scent. While rarely used today due to more efficient methods, it was once the primary extraction process when distillation was not possible.
Distillation is an ancient technique that has been used in perfumery for centuries, with the modern method developed in the Middle Ages by Arab alchemists. Steam from boiling water is passed through the raw material, driving out volatile fragrant compounds. The condensate is then settled in a Florentine flask, allowing for the easy separation of fragrant oils from the water as oil floats to the top. Distillation is particularly useful for fresh plant materials such as flowers, leaves, and stems, resulting in popular hydrosols like rose water, lavender water, and orange blossom water.
A more recent innovation is supercritical CO2 extraction, where CO2 is used as a solvent to extract essential oils. When in its supercritical state, between liquid and gas, it penetrates the material to extract volatile oils, resulting in a scent closer to nature. This method is more expensive but can extract ingredients that traditional methods cannot, providing a unique and natural fragrance.
Finally, expression is a mechanical process that began in the 19th century in Sicily, specifically for extracting oils from citrus fruits. High pressure is applied to the small glands in the peel of the fruit to obtain a liquid called the "absolute," capturing the essence without altering the smell.
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Notes and blending
Notes refer to the different levels of scent in a perfume. When you spray a fragrance on your skin, it moves through these notes in the following order: top notes, middle notes, and base notes. Top notes are the initial scent that you smell first, which usually disappears within 10 to 15 minutes. Middle notes appear as the top notes fade and form the core of the perfume, determining which family it belongs to (e.g. oriental, woody, fresh, or floral). Base notes come last and create an enduring fragrance, accentuating and fixing the middle notes. They form the foundation of the scent, making it last up to 4 to 5 hours on the skin.
The ideal ratio for blending notes is 30% top notes, 50% middle notes, and 20% base notes. Some perfumers recommend combining a maximum of three to four dominant notes. When mixing your perfume, adding scents from neighbouring families can create harmony. For example, if you are creating an oriental fragrance, you might include some woody notes as well.
To make a perfume, you need a carrier oil in addition to the top, middle, and base notes. Popular choices for carrier oils include sandalwood, jojoba, sweet almond, and grape seed oil. You then slowly add drops of your base, middle, and top notes to the carrier oil. Finally, you add something to help merge the ingredients together, such as alcohol or vodka, which evaporates quickly and helps diffuse the perfume's notes.
When blending, remember that the ingredient that smells extremely strong should only be used in trace amounts, otherwise, it may overpower your blend. Maceration is important, so leave your created fragrance for a day or so to allow it to settle and mature. Ageing allows the different scents or notes to blend together, creating a deeper and more intense fragrance.
To make a solid perfume, you can use melted beeswax instead of alcohol or water. You can also dilute your fragrance with distilled or spring water and add glycerine to preserve the fragrance.
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Dilution and preservation
Once you have created your fragrance, the next step is to dilute and preserve it. Diluting your perfume is essential, as undiluted perfume oils are highly concentrated and can irritate the skin. Diluting your fragrance will also help to soften the scent, making it more pleasant and wearable.
The most common method of dilution is to add alcohol. Perfumers tend to use perfumer's alcohol, which is a high-proof alcohol that can be purchased online. Vodka is a good substitute and is commonly used by DIY perfumers. Alcohol is a popular choice because it evaporates quickly, helping to diffuse the perfume's notes.
If you are making a solid perfume, you can use melted beeswax as a fixative instead of alcohol or water. You can also use skin-friendly oils as carriers if you find that alcohol irritates your skin.
Another important aspect of dilution is adding distilled or spring water. This is especially important if you are making a perfume spray, as it will help to further dilute the fragrance. Add approximately 2 tablespoons of water and 5 drops of glycerine, which will help to preserve the fragrance.
To preserve your fragrance, it is important to protect it from light and keep it in a cool, dark place. Clear bottles should be covered with aluminium foil or wrapping paper, as exposure to light can cause the fragrance to go off. Using dark glass bottles is a good way to protect your perfume from light and prolong its lifespan.
Another way to preserve your fragrance is to add antioxidants, which will aid in the scent's longevity. A common antioxidant added to fragrances is Butylated hydroxytoluene. Allowing your perfume to macerate, or sit for a few hours or overnight, will also help to preserve it by giving the mixture time to fully blend and mature.
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Bottling
Once your fragrance is ready, it's time to bottle it. But before you do that, it's important to dilute your perfume. Add two tablespoons of distilled or spring water if you're making an eau de toilette, and more if you're creating a perfume spray. You can also add a few drops of glycerine as a preservative.
Now, you need to prepare your bottles. Sterilise them in the dishwasher, especially if you're reusing old bottles. You'll also need to cover clear bottles with aluminium foil or wrapping paper to protect your fragrance from light, which can cause it to spoil. Dark glass bottles are ideal for this reason.
When your bottles are ready, use a funnel to pour in your perfume. Leave the mixture to settle and mature for a day or so—this process is called maceration. The fragrance may change colour, but this is normal and shouldn't affect the scent.
Finally, seal your bottles. By reducing oxygen exposure and keeping your perfume in a cool, dark place, you can greatly extend its lifespan.
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Frequently asked questions
Common aromatics for perfumes include essential oils, flower petals, leaves, herbs, and alcohol. You can also use food flavour extracts such as vanilla extract.
First, gather your ingredients and weigh them out on a scale. Then, add your base notes, followed by middle notes, and finally, top notes. Leave the mixture to sit for a few hours or overnight. After this, dilute the fragrance with distilled/spring water and add glycerine to preserve the fragrance. Pour the perfume into a dark glass bottle to protect it from light.
Top notes are the initial scent that disappears within 10-15 minutes. Middle notes are the core of the perfume and determine the family it belongs to (e.g. oriental, woody, fresh, floral). Base notes create an enduring fragrance and make the scent last up to 4-5 hours.
