Anisha Riggs
Absolute fragrances are highly-scented, organic substances used in perfumery and aromatherapy. They are similar to essential oils but are produced through solvent extraction or the traditional method of enfleurage. Absolutes are often used to create perfumes and fragrances due to their highly concentrated and aromatic properties. The process of making absolute fragrances involves extracting plant material with a hydrocarbon solvent, such as hexane, to create a concrete substance. This concrete is then extracted with ethanol, chilled, and filtered to yield a liquid extract. The final step is to dilute the absolute in a carrier, such as perfumer's alcohol, jojoba oil, or coconut oil, to create a personalized fragrance. With their ability to capture floral fragrances accurately, absolutes offer a cost-effective way to create aromatic and therapeutic fragrances.
How to Make Absolute Fragrance
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Process | Solvent extraction or enfleurage |
| Raw Materials | Flowers, plants, herbs |
| Equipment | Hydrocarbon solvent (e.g. hexane), ethanol |
| Temperature | −15 °C |
| Result | Oily mixture, highly aromatic |
| Use | Perfumery, aromatherapy |
| Dilution | 10-15% absolute, 90-85% alcohol |
| Carriers | Perfumer's alcohol, jojoba oil, coconut oil |
| Additional Notes | Absolute oils can be mixed to create different aromas |
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What You'll Learn
Absolutes are extracted from plants using solvents
Absolutes are highly concentrated, aromatic substances that are often used in aromatherapy and perfumery. They are typically derived from delicate flowers and plants, capturing their true aroma. Unlike essential oils, absolutes are extracted using solvents, although some can be extracted through the traditional method of enfleurage.
The process of solvent extraction involves using a hydrocarbon solvent, such as hexane, to extract the plant material and create a substance known as concrete. This concrete is then treated with ethanol to separate the aromatic compounds from pigments and waxes. The ethanol extract is cooled to solidify the waxes, which are then removed through cold filtration, resulting in a liquid extract. As the ethanol evaporates, an oil, known as the absolute, remains. This oil is highly fragrant and concentrated, capturing the essence of the plant.
Enfleurage, on the other hand, is an ancient and traditional method of extraction. It is a cold-fat extraction process that utilises the high absorption capacity of fat, particularly animal fat. This method is suitable for flowers that continue to develop and release their aroma after being harvested, such as jasmine and tuberose. The resulting pomade is extracted with ethanol to obtain the absolute.
The use of solvents in extraction offers several advantages. Solvent extraction can capture a more accurate representation of the plant's fragrance compared to steam distillation, which can alter the aroma due to high temperatures. Additionally, solvent extraction avoids the use of heat and water, preventing the loss of water-soluble aromatic compounds, resulting in a higher yield from the crop.
However, it is important to note that solvent extraction may leave trace amounts of solvents, which are undesirable in the food and fragrance industries. As a result, researchers have been exploring new "green extraction" methods that utilise alternative solvents and advanced technologies to enhance efficiency, reduce extraction time, and eliminate waxy residues.
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Absolutes are more aromatic than essential oils
Absolutes are highly aromatic, concentrated liquids extracted from plants. They are used in aromatherapy, natural perfumery, and commercial fragrancing applications. Absolutes are not distilled in a still but are instead extracted using a chemical solvent to carefully extract the precious aromatics from the plant material. The solvent is removed during the final stages of production, although a trace amount may still remain in the final product. This trace amount is considered tiny and does not affect the safety of the product.
In contrast, steam distillation, the most common method for producing essential oils, involves placing plant material in a still with water and applying heat. As the water heats up, the plant releases its essential oil, which rises with the steam droplets and is collected in a pipe. While this method is effective for many plants, it can negatively impact the aroma of delicate flowers, resulting in an oil that differs significantly from the original plant's fragrance.
Additionally, absolutes tend to be thicker in consistency than essential oils and may require warming to make them pourable. The higher density of colorants, waxes, and other constituents in absolutes contributes to their thicker texture. Absolutes are also generally more expensive than essential oils due to the cost of the specialist equipment required for solvent extraction.
Overall, absolutes offer a wonderful way to recapture floral fragrances more accurately and are a valuable addition to aromatherapy and perfumery practices. Their high aromatic potency and ability to capture the true essence of delicate flowers make them stand out compared to essential oils.
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Absolutes are used in aromatherapy
Absolutes are produced through a complex process that involves using a chemical solvent to extract the aromatics from the plant material. The use of a solvent first produces a concrete, which is then further extracted (often with alcohol) to produce the absolute. This two-step process allows for the separation of aromatic compounds from pigments and waxes, which are usually present if the material is derived from a flower or herb. The final product may contain trace amounts of the solvent used, which is why absolutes are not considered "pure" for use in therapeutic aromatherapy practices.
Some common absolutes used in aromatherapy include jasmine, rose, and benzoin. Jasmine absolute is used for skin care, respiratory problems, stress, and nervous disorders. Rose absolute is also used in aromatherapy, sometimes as a substitute for rose essential oil due to its slightly lower cost. Benzoin, a resinoid, is used in therapeutic aromatherapy for skin care, respiratory problems, and muscle pain. It is noted for its slight chocolate-vanilla aroma.
While absolutes have a place in holistic aromatherapy, they are generally more expensive than essential oils, which can influence their usage. Absolutes tend to be best suited for natural perfumery products, where their concentrated fragrance is valued. However, they can still be used in aromatherapy for their emotional and spiritual benefits, as long as users are aware of the potential presence of trace solvents and take the necessary precautions. It is important to note that absolutes should not be taken internally or applied undiluted to the skin without advanced knowledge or consultation from a qualified aromatherapy practitioner.
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Absolutes can be diluted with carrier oils
Absolutes are natural extracts obtained through solvent extraction. They are highly concentrated, aromatic, and oily mixtures extracted from plants. They are commonly used in perfumery and aromatherapy.
Absolutes are usually diluted before use. Diluting absolutes is a matter of preference, and there is no strict rule on how much carrier oil to use. However, it is important to monitor the amount of absolute oil used in relation to the carrier oil, as too much can lead to unexpected reactions. Absolutes can be diluted to 10%, 20%, or 50% depending on the material. For instance, most absolutes, such as rose, jasmine, champaca, and oakmoss, are diluted to around 20%. Some, like tobacco, are diluted to about 50%.
Diluting an absolute involves adding a small amount of carrier oil to the inside of your wrist or just below your ear. If irritation occurs, rinse thoroughly and avoid future use. Carrier oils are usually derived from the fatty portion of a plant, such as nuts, seeds, kernels, or fruits, and can also be vegetable-based. Popular carrier oils include sweet almond oil, olive oil, argan oil, and coconut oil.
When diluting absolutes, it is important to use a dropper bottle and add two drops of absolute oil for every teaspoon of carrier oil, or five drops for every 10ml. Some absolutes may need to be warmed to make them more mobile and easier to pour. Additionally, some carrier oils, such as alcohol, have a low flashpoint, so heating them can be dangerous. It is recommended to dilute absolutes to a maximum of 2% for topical application, as this is considered a safe percentage for daily use regardless of skin type.
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Absolutes can be mixed with other absolutes
Absolutes are highly concentrated, aromatic, and natural products. They are often more fragrant than essential oils and are known to portray the truest scent of their natural source. Absolutes are usually mixed with other absolutes to create a fragrance.
Absolutes are obtained through the alcohol extraction of concretes and other hydrocarbon-type extracts or fat-extracts of plant material. The concrete or resinoid is homogenized in ethanol, and the mixture is cooled. Cold filtration is then performed to remove the waxes and terpenes. The filtrate concentration is acquired by distilling the ethanol, resulting in an absolute. Absolutes can be derived from delicate flowers such as rose and jasmine, which cannot be steam-distilled and can only yield their aroma through solvent extraction.
When creating a fragrance, absolutes are mixed with other absolutes to form a unique and complex scent. This process allows for the combination of different natural fragrances, resulting in a more intense and deeper perfume. The mixing of absolutes can also help to enhance the longevity and strength of the fragrance.
For example, Phlur's Apricot Privee EDP combines Jasmine and Basil absolutes to create a unique scent profile. Similarly, their Solar Power EDP utilizes an exclusive absolute called Orange Flower Craftivity®, which involves extracting new natural ingredients from raw materials. By mixing different absolutes, perfumers can create distinctive and memorable fragrances that stand out in the market.
Furthermore, the mixing of absolutes allows for the creation of different notes within a fragrance. For instance, top notes can be achieved by using lighter absolutes such as citrus, while deeper and more intense base notes can be formed by mixing richer absolutes like amber or patchouli. The ability to blend absolutes provides perfumers with a wide range of possibilities to experiment and create unique olfactory experiences.
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Frequently asked questions
Absolutes are highly scented organic substances used in perfumery and aromatherapy. They are similar to essential oils but are produced through solvent extraction or enfleurage. This process captures a more accurate representation of a flower's fragrance compared to other methods like steam distillation.
To create an absolute fragrance, you can dilute absolute oils in a carrier oil or essential oil. Some common carrier oils include perfumer's alcohol, jojoba oil, and coconut oil. The percentage of absolute oil versus carrier oil will depend on your desired fragrance strength. You can also mix multiple absolute oils to create unique fragrances.
Some popular absolute oils include Orange Flower, Opoponax, Oakmoss, Jasmine Auriculatum, and Lily. These oils can be mixed and matched to create personalized fragrances.
