Antonio Mcgowan
Creating your own perfume can be a fun and rewarding experience, allowing you to design a unique scent that suits your taste and mood. The process is simpler than you might think, and with some experimentation, you can create fragrances that rival those of pricey brands. The key to making perfume is understanding the different notes that make up a well-balanced scent. These notes can be divided into three groups: top notes, middle notes, and base notes. Top notes are the initial scent you smell when you apply the perfume, and they disappear quickly, usually within 10 to 15 minutes. Middle notes appear after the top notes fade and form the core of the fragrance, determining its family, such as oriental, woody, fresh, or floral. Base notes are the foundation of the perfume, added last, and they help accentuate and fix the middle notes, making the scent last longer on the skin. Once you understand these basics, you can start blending your own scents using essential oils, fragrance oils, or even food extracts. The possibilities are endless, and you can create a signature scent that is truly yours.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Number of Notes | 3 |
| Notes | Top, Middle, Base |
| Top Notes | Initial scent, lasts 10-15 minutes, light and fresh, e.g. lemon, orange, grapefruit, lime, bergamot, spearmint, peppermint |
| Middle Notes | Appear after top notes disappear, form the core of the fragrance, e.g. coriander, palmarosa, marjoram, basil, rosemary, rose geranium, lavender |
| Base Notes | Appear last, accentuate and fix the middle notes, make the scent last longer, e.g. patchouli, vetiver, frankincense, cedarwood, sandalwood |
| Families | Floral, Oriental, Woody, Fresh |
| Common Aromatics | Plant materials (flowers, leaves, herbs), essential oils |
| Container | Clean, glass, tight-fitting lid, dark glass recommended to protect from light |
| Oil | Jojoba oil, almond oil, grape seed oil |
| Alcohol | Vodka, highest proof available |
| Aging | Minimum 48 hours, up to 3 months, in a cool, dark location |
| Dilution | 2 tablespoons of distilled/spring water, 5 drops of glycerine |
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What You'll Learn
Understanding perfume notes
Understanding the different notes in a perfume is key to appreciating how scents evolve over time, from the first spritz to the lingering final impression. Scents are categorized into three main layers: top, middle, and base notes. These layers form the foundation of every fragrance, influencing how a perfume unfolds and interacts with your skin.
Top notes are the initial scents that you smell when you first spray or apply perfume. They are the lightest and most volatile notes, and they typically last for about 10-15 minutes. Examples of top notes include citrus, floral, and fruity scents, such as lemon, bergamot, orange, grapefruit, and lime.
Middle notes, also known as heart notes, are the scents that you can smell once the top notes have evaporated. They typically last for about 2-3 hours and form the core of the perfume, determining which family it belongs to—for example, oriental, woody, fresh, or floral. Examples of middle notes include coriander, palmarosa, marjoram, basil, rosemary, rose geranium, lavender, and floral scents like rose, jasmine, and lily.
Base notes are the scent that lasts the longest and is the one you remember most. They kick in after about 30 minutes and work together with the middle notes to create the fragrance’s scent. Since base notes sink into your skin, their scent can last for six hours or more. Popular base notes include vanilla, amber, musk, patchouli, moss, and woody notes like sandalwood and cedarwood.
Experimenting with different fragrance layers allows for endless possibilities, making perfume-making with essential oils a creative and rewarding process. By understanding the role of each note, you can craft a scent that evolves beautifully over time, leaving a lasting and memorable impression.
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Choosing a method and ingredients
There are several methods and ingredients to choose from when making your own perfume. Firstly, you should decide on the aromatics you want to use. Two common choices are plant materials (flowers, leaves, and herbs) and essential oils. The methods for using these aromatics differ slightly.
If you opt for plant materials, you will need to infuse the plants in a carrier oil such as jojoba oil, almond oil, or grape seed oil. This method involves sterilizing a glass jar and filling it with your chosen plant materials. Next, add your carrier oil and seal the jar. Place it in a cool, dark location for two weeks to a month, shaking the jar every few days. After this infusion process, strain the oil to remove the plant materials, and your perfume is ready to use.
If you prefer to use essential oils, you will need to blend them with a solvent such as vodka or perfumer's alcohol. To do this, you will need a clean glass bottle with a tight-fitting lid, preferably made of dark glass to protect your perfume from light. Add your chosen essential oils drop by drop, with approximately 20 drops of your base note, 10 drops of your middle note, and 10 drops of your top note. Once you have added all your oils, close the bottle and shake gently to mix. Place the bottle in a dark place for at least a week to allow the oils and alcohol to mingle. After this, you can add your alcohol. As a general rule, parfum should contain 20-40% fragrance, eau de parfum around 15-20%, and eau de toilette 5-15%. However, you can adjust the amount of alcohol to suit your preference. Once you have added your alcohol, age your perfume for at least a month to allow the scents to blend and strengthen.
When choosing your ingredients, it is important to consider the different notes that make up a perfume. Top notes are the initial scent you smell when you apply a perfume, and they usually disappear within 10 to 15 minutes. Examples of top notes include citrus fruits, bergamot, spearmint, and peppermint. Middle notes appear after the top notes fade and form the core of the fragrance, determining whether it is oriental, woody, fresh, or floral. Coriander, lavender, and rose are examples of middle notes. Base notes are the foundation of the perfume, making the scent last up to 4 or 5 hours on the skin. Common base notes include patchouli, sandalwood, and cedarwood. A well-balanced perfume should include a blend of all three types of notes.
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Mixing and blending
Firstly, it is important to understand the different types of notes in a perfume. Perfumes typically have three types of notes: top notes, middle notes, and base notes. Top notes are the initial scent you smell when you first apply the perfume, and they tend to be light and fresh. Middle notes appear after the top notes fade and form the core of the fragrance, determining which family the perfume belongs to (e.g. oriental, woody, floral). Base notes are the foundation of the perfume and help to accentuate and fix the middle notes, making the scent last longer.
When mixing your own perfume, it is recommended to start by adding the base notes, followed by the middle notes, and finally the top notes. This ensures that the different scent layers interact correctly. You can find inspiration for your notes by looking at the ingredients of your favourite commercial scents or by referring to online resources that break down the notes in popular perfumes.
The number of drops of each note will depend on the desired intensity and balance of the fragrance. A well-balanced perfume should include a blend of all three types of notes. It is important to experiment with different combinations and adjust the number of drops accordingly. You can also create variations by substituting or adding different notes.
Once you have added the desired number of drops of each note, gently shake the bottle to mix the oils together. Then, let the mixture sit in a dark place for at least 48 hours to several months, depending on the desired strength. During this ageing process, the scents will mingle and become stronger. After ageing, you can smell the fragrance and make adjustments by adding a few more drops of certain notes. However, if you add more scent, you will need to age the perfume again.
Finally, dilute the perfume by adding distilled water and glycerine, which helps preserve the fragrance. If you are making a spray perfume, you may need to add more water. Pour the final mixture into clean glass bottles, preferably dark-coloured ones, as they help protect the perfume from light and prolong its lifespan.
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Ageing and diluting
Once you are happy with the fragrance after ageing, it is time to dilute it. Diluting your perfume serves several purposes, such as wasting less material and making it easier to blend. There are different methods and materials you can use for dilution, depending on the type of perfume you are making.
If you are making an alcohol-based perfume spray, you can dilute your fragrance using perfumer's alcohol or Di Propylene Glycol (DPG). Perfumer's alcohol is commonly used for evaluation and experimentation, as it helps to train your nose in identifying different odour profiles. However, if you use perfumer's alcohol, you will not be able to add your perfume to certain bases like candles, creams, detergents, or oils. On the other hand, DPG is a more versatile solvent that can be used with a wider range of bases.
When diluting your perfume, you will often need to dilute your materials to specific concentrations, such as 20%, 10%, 1%, 0.5%, or even less. To achieve a certain concentration, you can use a formula: C1V1=C2V2, where C=Concentration and V=Volume. For example, to dilute a 50% solution to 20%, you would calculate the volume of the 50% solution needed to achieve the desired concentration.
Another important consideration during dilution is the order in which you add your scents. In general, you should add your base notes first, followed by the middle notes, and then the top notes. Base notes are the foundation of your perfume and include scents like patchouli, vetiver, and sandalwood. Middle notes form the core of the fragrance and determine which family it belongs to, such as oriental or floral. Top notes are the initial scent you smell when you first spray the perfume, and they disappear the fastest, usually within 10 to 15 minutes.
Lastly, storage is crucial for preserving your perfume. The main enemies of any perfume are sunlight, oxygen, humid environments, heat, and big differences in air temperature. Therefore, store your perfume in its original packaging, in a dark and cool place, away from sources of light, heat, and humidity. Using dark glass containers can also help protect your perfume from light and prolong its lifespan.
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Storing your perfume
Firstly, it is important to keep your perfume in its original bottle or box. Perfume bottles are designed to protect the perfume from light and temperature changes. They also help to keep the bottle upright and stable, preventing any accidental spills or breakages. If you do choose to transfer your perfume to a different container, opt for glass over plastic. Plastic can react with the perfume's ingredients, altering the fragrance and causing it to deteriorate. Glass is less permeable than plastic, so it will better protect your perfume from light and air exposure. Dark glass bottles, such as amber or cobalt blue, are excellent choices as they block out most of the harmful light.
Secondly, choose a storage location that is cool, dry, and dark. Avoid storing your perfume in the bathroom, as the heat and humidity from showers can degrade the scent. The kitchen is also off-limits, as it can get very hot. A closet or cabinet in a bedroom or hallway is a much better place to store your perfume. If you have a dehumidifier set up anywhere, this can be a great place to keep your perfume, as moisture can cause damage to perfumes, causing chemical reactions that alter the smell.
Thirdly, keep the perfume bottle closed. Once the perfume is exposed to oxygen, it becomes oxidised, causing the smell to dilute and fade over time. If you want to extend the life of your fragrances even further, consider double packing them. For example, you could keep the bottle in its original packaging and then place it inside an airtight bag. This ensures that no air or light will reach the bottle.
Finally, avoid storing your perfume near other scents. Fragrances can easily acquire strange scents from those stored nearby, effectively changing their unique aroma.
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Frequently asked questions
Perfumes are a blend of different levels of scent, also called "notes". Top notes are what you smell first, followed by middle notes, and then base notes, which make the scent last for up to 4 or 5 hours.
Top notes include scents like lemon, orange, grapefruit, lime, bergamot, spearmint, and peppermint. Middle notes include coriander, palmarosa, marjoram, basil, rosemary, rose geranium, and lavender. Base notes include patchouli, vetiver, frankincense, cedarwood, and sandalwood.
You will need a clean glass container with a tight-fitting lid, preferably dark-coloured to protect your perfume from light. You will also need an odorless oil like jojoba oil, almond oil, or grape seed oil, and your choice of essential oils or fragrance oils for the scent. Vodka or perfumer's alcohol can also be used as a base.
Start by adding your base notes, then middle notes, and finally your top notes. Mix the oils together and let the blend sit in a dark place for at least 48 hours to several months, depending on the desired strength. After ageing, dilute your perfume with distilled water and glycerine to help preserve the fragrance. Store your perfume in dark bottles, especially if they are clear, to protect them from light.
