Anisha Riggs
Making a tincture-based perfume involves a three-phase process. Firstly, choose a base alcohol, such as sugarcane ethanol, Everclear, or another grain alcohol. Next, soak herbs, flowers, or other natural ingredients in the alcohol for up to two years, squeezing out the oils every month and adding new ingredients. Finally, filter the tincture and blend it with other tinctures or natural ingredients to create your desired fragrance. Tincture-based perfumes are natural and artisanal, and they can capture unique fragrances, such as the scent of a beehive or the sea.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Base Alcohol | Grain alcohol, sugarcane ethanol, grape ethanol, Everclear, orange alcohol, organic alcohol |
| Alcohol Percentage | 95% EtOH or higher |
| Process | Soak herbs or flowers in alcohol for 1-2 years, squeeze oils from flowers, shrubs, and herbs, filter tincture |
| Additives | Sugars, starches, resins, distilled water |
| Aging | Minimum of six months |
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What You'll Learn
Use a base of grain alcohol
Grain alcohol is a popular base for tincture-based perfumes. It is often used by professionals and is a great option for beginners. Grain alcohol is considered a good base because it is easily accessible, affordable, and efficient. It is also colourless and odourless, which means it will not alter the scent profile of your perfume.
When choosing a grain alcohol, it is important to select one with a high alcohol content. The ideal percentage is 95% ethanol or 190-proof. Everclear is a popular brand of grain alcohol that meets this requirement and is food-grade, making it suitable for perfumery. However, it is illegal in many places. If you cannot access Everclear, you can use other 190-proof grain alcohol or opt for grape alcohol.
When using grain alcohol as your base, it is important to follow the proper measurements. For a 10ml atomizer bottle, you will need 7ml of grain alcohol. This will serve as the base for your essential oils or fragrance oils. It is important to note that fragrance oils may contain synthetics, so be sure to check the ingredients and opt for essential oils if you prefer a natural perfume.
Once you have added your oils to the grain alcohol, seal the bottle and shake it gently to mix the ingredients. Then, let the mixture sit for at least 48 hours to a month in a cool, dark place. This aging process allows the oils and alcohol to meld, enhancing the depth and longevity of your fragrance. After this period, you can test your perfume by spritzing a small amount on your pressure points.
If your perfume has a strong odour of alcohol, don't worry—this should dissipate after a few seconds, leaving only your desired scent. However, if the alcohol smell persists, you may need to adjust the ratio of alcohol to oil or let the perfume sit for a bit longer.
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Soak herbs, flowers, and shrubs
Soaking herbs, flowers, and shrubs in alcohol is a key step in creating a tincture base for perfume. This process involves infusing the essence and oils from the plant material into the alcohol, which will eventually form the base of your perfume.
Firstly, gather your chosen plant materials. You can use fresh herbs, flowers, and shrubs from your garden or purchase them from a supplier. When selecting your plant materials, consider the scent profile you want to achieve. For example, pine needles can offer a fresh, woody scent, while rose geranium, lemon peel, and black pepper can create a citrusy and spicy fragrance.
Once you have your herbs, flowers, and shrubs, it's time to prepare them for soaking. Cut or break the plant material into small pieces to increase the surface area exposed to the alcohol. Place the plant material into a jar or container.
Now, choose your alcohol. It is recommended to use a high-quality, high-proof alcohol such as grain alcohol, Everclear, or organic grain, grape, or sugarcane ethanol. Avoid standard "perfumer's alcohol," as it often contains additives. Pour the alcohol into the jar with the plant material until it is fully submerged.
The soaking process can take varying lengths of time, from a few days to a few months, depending on the plant material and the desired strength of your tincture. Some sources recommend steeping the plant material in alcohol for 24 hours, then replacing the alcohol with a fresh solution and repeating this process until the desired strength is achieved. Others suggest soaking for extended periods of up to one to two years, removing and squeezing the oils from the plant material monthly, and then adding new plant material to begin the process again.
During the soaking process, you can occasionally shake or stir the mixture to help release the oils and scents from the plant material. Once the desired strength is achieved, remove the plant material and filter the tincture to use as a base for your perfume.
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Squeeze oils from foliage
Squeezing oils from foliage is a great way to create a natural perfume. The process involves extracting fragrant compounds from flowers or other plant materials through a variety of methods. Here are some detailed steps to guide you through the process:
Selecting the Right Foliage
Choose fresh, fragrant flowers or plants with strong scents, such as roses, jasmine, lavender, or even herbs. Ensure the foliage is pesticide-free to avoid any unwanted chemicals in your perfume.
Preparing the Foliage
Remove any stems and leaves from the flowers, and gently rinse the petals to eliminate dirt and insects. This step ensures that your perfume is pure and free from contaminants.
Releasing the Essential Oils
Using a mortar and pestle, gently crush the flower petals or foliage. This action will release their essential oils. Be careful not to bruise the petals too much, as you want to preserve their fragrance.
Infusing the Carrier Oil
Place the crushed petals or foliage in a glass jar. Cover them with a carrier oil such as jojoba oil, sweet almond oil, fractionated coconut oil, olive oil, corn oil, or sesame oil. The carrier oil will absorb and carry the fragrance of the flowers or foliage.
Allowing Infusion Time
Seal the jar tightly and let it sit in a cool, dark place for 24 to 48 hours. During this time, the carrier oil will absorb the scent from the flowers or foliage. The longer you allow it to infuse, the stronger the scent will become.
Straining and Squeezing
After the infusion period, strain the mixture through a cloth, such as cheesecloth or muslin. Gently squeeze the cloth to extract as much infused oil as possible. For an even stronger scent, you can repeat the infusion process with fresh petals or foliage and the same oil.
Adjusting and Blending
At this stage, you can adjust the scent and create your unique perfume blend. Mix the infused oil with alcohol (such as vodka or perfumer's alcohol) in a ratio of about 1 part oil to 3 parts alcohol. You can also add natural fixatives like orris root powder or glycerin to stabilize the fragrance and make it last longer.
Creating perfume through foliage oil extraction is a rewarding process that allows you to connect with nature and craft personalized scents. Experiment with different types of foliage and oils to find your signature fragrance.
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Filter the tincture
Filtering the tincture is a crucial step in creating a clear and aesthetically pleasing perfume. Here are the detailed steps to guide you through the process:
Prepare the Tincture
Before filtering, ensure your tincture is ready by checking its maturity and potency. Age your tincture for a minimum of six months to allow the scent to fully develop. During this period, you can agitate the mixture by occasionally shaking the jar or using a magnetic stirrer. Alternatively, you may choose to create a stronger tincture by soaking fresh batches of herbs, flowers, or shrubs in grain alcohol for up to two years, removing and squeezing the oils every month, and then composting the detritus.
Choose the Right Filter
Selecting an appropriate filter is essential for effective tincture filtration. You can opt for a simple coffee filter or a fine-mesh strainer. Coffee filters are readily available and efficient at removing solid particles, while fine-mesh strainers can be made of metal or nylon and are washable and reusable.
Now, you can begin the filtration process:
- Place the filter of your choice over a clean jar or container.
- Slowly pour the tincture through the filter, allowing it to pass through at a controlled pace. This step may take some time, depending on the quantity of your tincture and the fineness of the filter.
- If needed, use a funnel to direct the filtered tincture into a narrow-necked container.
- Repeat the filtration process at least three times to ensure a clear and particle-free perfume.
Store and Age
After successful filtration, store your tincture-based perfume in a cool, dark place. You can use amber-coloured bottles or jars to protect the perfume from light and extend its shelf life. Allow the perfume to age further, developing a more complex and mature fragrance over time.
Remember, the filtration process is a delicate step that requires patience and attention to detail. By following these steps, you will be able to create a clear and visually appealing tincture-based perfume.
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Age for at least six months
The maturation process is an integral part of crafting a perfume. It allows all of the components of the perfume formula to integrate fully with the carrier, whether that be alcohol or oil. Aging your tincture-based perfume for at least six months will allow the scent to fully mature and develop.
During the aging process, top notes will be the first to burn off, and over the course of a few years, they could fall away entirely or integrate with the base and heart notes. The base and middle notes often end up blooming and darkening, creating more depth.
Some perfume types do better with aging than others. Rich, resinous, woody, earthy, and some musk blends will usually age better than lighter, fruity, green, or floral blends. For example, it took perfumer Charna Ethier two years to collect enough lilies and create a strong enough tincture to make a fragrant impact.
To ensure your perfume ages well, it should be stored in a cool, dark, and dry area. Keeping them in amber or darker-colored glass bottles will also protect them more than storing them in a clear bottle.
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Frequently asked questions
Some good tinctures to use as a base for perfume include vanilla bean, rice-based infusions, orange alcohol, and sugar cane and grape alcohol.
The process for making tincture-based perfume involves soaking herbs or flowers in grain alcohol for 1-2 years. The oils are then removed from the flowers, shrubs, and herbs, and new ones are added to the alcohol. This process is repeated monthly for almost 18 months until a potent tincture is formed.
One common mistake to avoid when making tincture-based perfume is not paying attention to the source and quality of the alcohol used. Inorganic distillates of high-proof alcohol may be laden with heavy metals and pesticides, which can be harmful.
Tincture-based perfume typically takes a minimum of six months to mature and develop its full scent.
