Antonio Mcgowan
Making perfume is an art form that dates back to ancient Egypt. With up to 10,000 different ingredients to choose from, there is a lot of room for creativity and customization. Perfumes can be made with alcohol, balm, or oil bases, and fragrances can be created with essential oils, fragrance oils, infused oils, and even food flavour extracts. To make a simple perfume, you can mix alcohol and fragrance oil in a beaker, with a ratio of 70% alcohol to 30% fragrance oil, and pour the mixture into a spray bottle.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Scents | Coriander, Palmarosa, Marjoram, Basil, Rosemary, Rose Geranium, Petitgrain, Lavender, Patchouli, Vetiver, Frankincense, Cedarwood, Sandalwood |
| Base note | Patchouli, Vetiver, Frankincense, Cedarwood, Sandalwood |
| Middle note | N/A |
| Top note | N/A |
| Scent families | Floral, Oriental, Woody, Fresh |
| Carrier | Alcohol, Balm, Oil |
| Ingredients | Vodka, Essential oils, Fragrance oils, Infused oils, Flavour extracts, Glycerine, Distilled/spring water |
| Container | Glass bottles, preferably coloured |
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What You'll Learn
Choosing a scent: floral, oriental, woody, or fresh
When creating a perfume, the scent is one of the most important aspects to consider. The scent of a perfume can be classified into four main fragrance families: floral, oriental, woody, and fresh. Each family has its distinct essence, catering to different personalities, styles, and occasions.
Floral fragrances are timeless and romantic, evoking feelings of love, femininity, and grace. They are inspired by nature's most delicate blooms, capturing the essence of a lush bouquet or the intoxicating aroma of petals. Floral scents can range from soft and powdery to bright and fresh, with popular notes such as rose, lavender, and jasmine.
Oriental fragrances, on the other hand, are known for their rich, exotic, and luxurious appeal. They are characterized by warm and spicy undertones, often blending notes like amber, vanilla, cinnamon, and tonka bean. Oriental scents are seductive and captivating, perfect for evening wear or special occasions when you want to leave a lasting impression.
Woody perfumes exude confidence, strength, and sophistication. They are ideal for individuals who want to add warmth and elegance to their presence, especially during evening wear, formal events, or cooler weather. Woody notes include guaiac wood and benzoin, as well as sandalwood and cedarwood.
Lastly, fresh fragrances offer vibrant and refreshing vibes. This family includes scents like citrus and other lively, invigorating aromas.
When mixing your perfume, adding scents from neighbouring families can create harmony. For example, if you choose a floral oriental scent, you can add water notes and woody notes to create a unique fragrance.
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Selecting a carrier: alcohol, balm, or oil
When making perfume, you can choose from a variety of carriers, each with its own advantages and considerations. Here is an overview of the three main carrier options: alcohol, balm, and oil.
Alcohol
Alcohol, typically in the form of ethanol, is a common carrier for perfume. It is important to use pure (190+) proof ethanol, either undenatured or SDA40B denatured. Unlike vodka, pure ethanol is ideal for perfumery as it doesn't contain much water, which is unhelpful for extraction. To create your fragrance, add your chosen scent oils to the alcohol, and place the mixture in a bain-marie. Heat the mixture by boiling some water in a glass, then place the container with the alcohol and oils in a plastic bag and submerge it in the hot water for about 15 minutes. Let the mixture rest at room temperature, and it will be ready to use the next day.
Balm
Solid perfumes, which can also be used as lip balms, typically use beeswax as a carrier. To make a solid perfume balm, start by experimenting with different scent oils to create your desired fragrance. Once you're happy with the scent, mix the oils with equal parts beeswax and a carrier oil such as jojoba, olive, or grapeseed. Use a double boiler to melt the beeswax and oil mixture, being careful not to use a microwave for this step. Pour the melted mixture into small containers, such as tins or lockets, and let it cool and solidify.
Oil
Perfume oils are another popular option, offering longer-lasting fragrance compared to alcohol-based perfumes. Typically, perfume oils have a 20-80% concentration of essential or fragrance oils to carrier oil. If you're making a 5ml bottle of perfume, for example, you can use 2 parts base, 1 part heart, 1 part head, and the rest as a carrier oil. Common carrier oils include jojoba and sweet almond oil. You can adjust the ratios and drop numbers based on the strength and smell of your chosen oils, usually aiming for more base and heart than head.
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Mixing the perfume: adding base, middle, and top notes
When mixing the perfume, it is recommended to start by adding the base notes, then the middle notes, and finally the top notes. This is because top notes evaporate the quickest, so their scent is short-lived, while base notes evaporate the slowest, meaning their scent lasts the longest.
Base notes form the foundation of the perfume, ensuring the scent evolves beautifully over time. They are often deep, rich, and warm, and commonly include woody, balsamic, and musky notes. Examples of base notes are patchouli, vetiver, frankincense, cedarwood, and sandalwood.
Middle notes serve as the heart of the perfume, emerging once the fleeting top notes dissipate. They are well-rounded and full-bodied, defining the perfume's character and providing balance between the fresh opening and the rich base notes. Middle notes are often warm, floral, or herbal, and can include scents like lavender, rosemary, and rose geranium.
Top notes create the initial aroma of the perfume and set the stage for the middle notes to shine through. They are the most volatile, evaporating quickly, and are usually fresh scents, including citrus, green, and fruity notes.
When mixing the perfume, it is important to add the correct amount of each note. One suggestion is to use 30% base notes, 50% middle notes, and 20% top notes. Another suggestion is to use less top notes compared to the other notes, as too many can result in a scent that is too mature or complex.
To mix the perfume, measure and weigh your alcohol base, and then add your fragrance oil. A good ratio is 70% perfumer's alcohol to 30% fragrance oil, which will give you a nice, strong, lingering scent. For a 0.33oz spray bottle, this would be 7 grams of alcohol and 3 grams of fragrance oil. Blend these ingredients for 1-2 minutes, and then pour the mixture into your bottle. If you are using clear bottles, cover them with aluminium foil or wrapping paper to protect the fragrance from the light.
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Preparing the bottle: cleaning and sterilising
Preparing your bottle is a crucial step in making perfume souvenirs. The bottles must be meticulously cleaned and sterilised to ensure that the fragrance remains unadulterated and that the bottle is in optimal condition. Here is a comprehensive guide to achieving this:
Cleaning the Bottle:
Start by emptying the bottle, transferring any remaining perfume to a smaller container to prevent waste. Then, introduce a teaspoon of vinegar into the bottle. This acetic solution effectively breaks down and removes stubborn stains and residual perfume oils. Add uncooked rice for an enhanced cleaning effect. The rice acts as a mild abrasive, scouring the inner surfaces of the bottle and dislodging any adhering residues. Shake the bottle vigorously, allowing the rice to reach all nooks and crannies.
For a more thorough clean, use a fine brush, such as a supple-bristled toothbrush, to meticulously scrub less accessible areas, including the bottleneck and internal components of the sprayer. You can also use gentle liquid dish soap or soap water for this step, as soap is effective in attracting and removing oil and dirt residues. Lukewarm water is preferable, as it is gentler on the bottle and helps prevent water spots during the rinsing process.
Sterilising the Bottle:
To sterilise the bottle, you can use a dishwasher, especially if you are reusing the bottle. The high temperature and steam in the dishwasher will effectively sterilise the bottle, ensuring it is free from bacteria and other microorganisms. If you do not have access to a dishwasher, you can boil the bottle in water for several minutes to achieve a similar effect.
Drying and Polishing:
After cleaning and sterilising, it is crucial to dry the bottle thoroughly. Invert the bottle and place it in a well-ventilated area to guarantee complete evaporation of any internal moisture. Residual moisture can negatively impact your new fragrance if you refill the bottle before it is entirely dry. Finally, polish the bottle's exterior with a soft, non-abrasive cloth to restore its lustre and remove any fingerprints or water spots.
Now that your bottle is meticulously cleaned, sterilised, dried, and polished, it is ready for your custom fragrance!
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Finishing touches: preserving and protecting the fragrance
Once you've created your unique fragrance, there are a few final steps to ensure its longevity and protect your creation.
Firstly, it's important to use clean and sterile bottles and jars for your perfume. Be sure to sterilize them, especially if you're reusing old containers. This will ensure no bacteria or impurities affect your perfume. You can sterilize glassware in the dishwasher, or by carefully washing with hot, soapy water and allowing to air dry.
When it comes to bottling your perfume, opt for coloured glass bottles, as these will help protect your fragrance from light. If you're using clear glass bottles, cover them with aluminium foil or wrapping paper to achieve the same effect. Light can cause the fragrance to spoil, so this is an important step to ensure your perfume lasts.
To further preserve your perfume, add a few drops of glycerine. This will help maintain the fragrance and prevent it from spoiling. You can also add a little vodka to your perfume to act as a preservative.
Finally, when bottling your perfume, use a funnel to avoid spills and wastage. If you're making a spray perfume, add a little extra distilled or spring water to the mix to ensure it sprays effectively.
With these simple steps, your perfume souvenir will be ready to gift or enjoy yourself!
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