Anisha Riggs
Making perfume is an art form that dates back to ancient Egypt. In modern times, perfumers have thousands of ingredients to choose from, allowing for endless creativity and customization. The process of making perfume is all about patience and experimentation. It involves blending different levels of scent, also called notes, with a carrier such as alcohol, balm, or oil. The type of container used is important, with dark glass often recommended to protect the perfume from light and prolong its lifespan. With the right ingredients and guidance, anyone can create their own unique fragrance or even replicate popular scents.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Base notes | Patchouli, vetiver, frankincense, cedarwood, sandalwood, ginger, vanilla, cypress, pine |
| Middle notes | Coriander, palmarosa, marjoram, basil, rosemary, rose geranium, petitgrain, lavender, black pepper, fir needle, cinnamon, clove, juniper, lemongrass, rose, jasmine, chamomile |
| Top notes | Lemon, orange, grapefruit, lime, bergamot, spearmint, peppermint, mandarin, rose, jasmine, orange blossoms |
| Scents | Floral, oriental, woody, fresh (e.g. citrus) |
| Ingredients | Vodka, essential oils, herbs, food flavours, extracts (e.g. vanilla extract), distilled/spring water, glycerine |
| Equipment | Sterilized bottles and jars, funnel, gauze or muslin, thread, delivery tube, receiving vessel, ice |
| Process | Mix base notes, middle notes, and top notes, dilute with water, add glycerine, pour into a bottle |
| Storage | Protect from light, store in a warm place to prevent solidification |
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What You'll Learn
Choosing a scent
Firstly, decide what type of scent you are creating. You can choose from a wide variety of scent families, such as floral, oriental, woody, or fresh (citrus). You can also consider aromatherapy, which involves using scents to affect mood and well-being. For example, woody or fresh families create a nice manly cologne.
Next, you must understand the different levels of scent notes and how they work together to create a harmonious perfume. The three main types of notes are:
- Top notes (head notes): These are strong scents that evaporate quickly. Examples include coriander, palmarosa, basil, rosemary, and lavender.
- Middle notes (heart notes): These are usually floral scents. Examples include jasmine, chamomile, and rose.
- Base notes: These are the scents that last the longest. Examples include patchouli, vetiver, cedarwood, sandalwood, and vanilla.
When mixing your perfume, start by adding your base notes, then the middle notes, and finally the top notes. You can also add multiple chords (combinations of base, middle, and top notes) to create a more complex fragrance.
If you are unsure where to start, try imagining what certain famous people would have worn. For example, Marie Antoinette is associated with floral scents, while Queen Elizabeth I preferred marjoram due to her migraines. You can also consider your favourite incense sticks and create a perfume that resembles their scent.
Remember, not every fragrance blend will smell amazing on the first try, so be patient and don't be afraid to experiment.
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Notes and chords
The fragrance of a perfume can be divided into three different notes: top, middle, and base. These notes refer to the order in which the scents arise, with top notes being the initial scent that disappears after 15 to 20 minutes, middle notes appearing after the top notes fade, and base notes forming the base of the perfume and appearing last.
When mixing your perfume, it is important to add the notes in a specific order, starting with the base notes, followed by the middle notes, and finally, the top notes. This ensures that the different scents blend harmoniously.
Top notes typically include scents like lemon, orange, grapefruit, lime, bergamot, spearmint, peppermint, and other citrus or refreshing fragrances. These scents are light and invigorating, providing an initial burst of freshness.
Middle notes include a variety of herbs and spices such as coriander, palmarosa, marjoram, basil, rosemary, rose geranium, petitgrain, lavender, black pepper, fir needle, cinnamon, clove, juniper, and others. These scents add depth and complexity to the perfume.
Base notes are typically composed of deeper, earthier scents like patchouli, vetiver, frankincense, cedarwood, sandalwood, pine, ginger, vanilla, cypress, and others. These scents are rich and long-lasting, providing a solid foundation for the perfume.
When creating your own perfume, it is important to understand the different scent families and how they work together. Scents can be categorised into families such as floral, oriental, woody, and fresh. Combining scents from neighbouring families creates harmony in your perfume. For example, you could mix floral and oriental scents or woody and fresh scents to create a unique and well-rounded fragrance.
Additionally, you can use food flavours and extracts such as vanilla extract to incorporate popular perfume notes into your creations.
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Base, heart, and head notes
When creating a perfume, it's important to understand the different layers of scent that come together to form a harmonious fragrance. These layers are known as the base, heart, and head notes, or the top, middle, and base notes. Each note has a unique role and together they create a chord, with each scent building on the last to create a unique perfume.
The base notes are the foundation of the perfume and the last impression of the scent. They appear after the heart notes and are long-lasting, rich scents that linger on the skin for hours, even days, after the top notes have evaporated. Common base notes include vanilla, sandalwood, cedarwood, amber, patchouli, oakmoss, and musk. These notes are often deep and earthy, providing depth and fullness to the fragrance.
The heart notes, or middle notes, appear once the top notes have evaporated. They are well-rounded, smooth, and often floral or fruity, sometimes with a spicy twist. Heart notes include rose, jasmine, geranium, lavender, coriander, and cinnamon. These notes are considered the heart of the fragrance, lasting longer than the top notes and influencing the base notes.
The head notes, or top notes, are the first impression of the perfume. They are strong, explosive scents that hit you immediately. However, they are also the most fleeting, with a light molecular structure that evaporates quickly. Common top notes include citrus fruits like lemon and orange, light fruits like grapefruit, and herbs such as lavender and sage.
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Alcohol, balm, or oil
Alcohol
Perfumes with an alcohol base are typically called eau de parfum. Vodka is a popular choice for perfume-making, but it's mostly water, which doesn't help with extraction. Instead, opt for pure (190+) proof ethanol, either undenatured or SDA40B denatured. You can purchase this from a local grocery or liquor store.
To make your perfume, add your chosen fragrance to the alcohol. Then, place the mixture in a bain-marie (heat some water to almost boiling in a glass in the microwave, then place your bottle in a plastic bag in the water for about 15 minutes). Let the mixture rest at room temperature for a day or two.
Balm
Solid perfumes are made with a combination of essential oils, carrier oils, and beeswax. Carrier oils dilute and "carry" essential oils safely on the skin. Popular carrier oils include grapeseed oil, sweet almond oil, jojoba oil, and virgin coconut oil. However, coconut oil will impart a coconut scent on the final product. Beeswax takes the carrier oil from a liquid to a solid state and helps the perfume last longer when applied to the skin.
To make a solid perfume, melt your beeswax using a double boiler. Add your carrier oil and essential oil(s) of choice, stirring continuously. Pour the mixture into a container and let it cool.
Oil
Perfume oils are free of alcohol and typically use jojoba or sweet almond oil as a base. They are longer-lasting than eau de parfum, with a duration of 5 to 12 hours, depending on the strength of the ingredients.
To make a 5ml bottle of perfume oil, you will need 100 drops of liquid. The ratios of the notes are as follows: 2 parts base, 1 part heart, 1 part head, and the rest is carrier oil. For a light perfume with 20% fragrance, you will need 20 drops of fragrance and 80 drops of carrier oil.
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Blending and bottling
Once you have chosen your desired scents, it's time to start blending. Use a separate dropper pipette for each raw oil to avoid mixing them in unexpected ways. Add your chosen oils to a clean container and gently mix them together. You can also add vodka to your blend, as it helps to preserve the fragrance and dilute the oils.
After blending, let your fragrance age in a cool, dark location for at least 48 hours to allow the scents to mingle and strengthen. Once your fragrance has aged, dilute it by adding distilled or spring water. If you're making a perfume spray, add more water. You can also add a few drops of glycerine to help preserve the fragrance.
Now it's time to bottle your perfume. Choose a dark bottle to protect your fragrance from light, which can cause it to go off. Use a funnel to pour your perfume into the bottle. If you're using a spray bottle, you may need to add more water to get the right consistency.
Finally, test your perfume by spraying it lightly on your skin. Enjoy your unique, custom fragrance! You can also pour your perfume into a locket, creating a wearable fragrance that doubles as a piece of jewellery.
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Frequently asked questions
Perfume is a cosmetic that imparts a fragrance to the skin. It is an art form that dates back to ancient Egypt, where Egyptians used scents in religious ceremonies, burial preparations, and daily wear.
You can use alcohol, balm, or oil as a carrier for your fragrance. Popular choices for carrier oils include jojoba oil, almond oil, and grape seed oil. You can also use essential oils, fragrance oils, infused oils, and even flavour extracts such as vanilla extract.
First, decide on a method based on your materials. Then, obtain a clean glass container with a tight-fitting lid, preferably dark glass to protect your perfume from light. Add your base notes, then middle notes, and finally your top notes. You can also add distilled/spring water and glycerine to preserve the fragrance.
Perfumery is a difficult art form to master, so be patient and experiment with different ingredients and ratios. Not every fragrance blend will smell amazing on the first try, so keep practicing and don't be afraid to make adjustments.
