Seamus Hammond
Artist Ani Liu has created a human-scented perfume by capturing volatile molecules from a person's garment and fixing them into a solvent. While this is an intriguing concept, it is challenging to identify the molecules that contribute to an individual's scent, as human skin contains hundreds, if not thousands, of trace compounds. Additionally, the ratios between these compounds would need to be determined to accurately replicate a person's smell. The process of creating a perfume from human body scent involves extracting and synthesizing smelly molecules, which can be achieved through chemical laboratory methods. However, the complexity of human smell makes this a difficult task.
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What You'll Learn
Identify the molecules that contribute to the human smell
The human body's unique smell is influenced by many factors, including genetics, sex, age, diet, health, medication, and behavioural patterns. The human smell is a composite of many different odours, and the specific molecules that contribute to body odour are still being discovered.
Body odour is influenced by major histocompatibility complex (MHC) molecules, which are genetically determined and play a role in immunity. The vomeronasal organ contains cells that are sensitive to MHC molecules in a genotype-specific way. Experiments have shown that potential partners tend to be perceived as more attractive if their MHC composition is substantially different.
The human armpit is a microbial hotspot, providing a warm and moist environment where microbes can thrive. The skin microbiota varies from person to person, and even between locations on the same host. The major bacterial players that colonize the skin and produce body odour include the Staphylococcus, Corynebacterium, and Cutibacterium genera.
The specific molecules that contribute to body odour include volatile organic compounds (VOCs) such as volatile fatty acids and thioalcohols. Key volatile fatty acids include 3-methyl-2-hexenoic acid (3M2H), which has a goat-like odour, and 3-hydroxy-3-methylhexanoic acid (HMHA), which has a cumin-like odour. Other molecules include sulfanylalkanols, such as 3-methyl-3-sulfanylhexan-1-ol (3M3SH), and odoriferous androstane steroids, such as androstenone and androstenol.
In addition, propionic acid (propanoic acid), a breakdown product of some amino acids by propionibacteria, is present in many sweat samples and contributes to a pungent, cheesy, and vinegar-like smell. Isovaleric acid (3-methyl butanoic acid) is another source of body odour, produced by the bacteria Staphylococcus epidermidis.
While the specific molecules contributing to body odour are still being discovered, current knowledge provides insight into the complex nature of human body odour and its underlying biochemistry.
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Extract the molecules from a person's garment
The extraction of DNA molecules from a person's garment is a delicate process that requires careful handling to ensure the integrity of the evidence. Here is a step-by-step guide on how to extract DNA molecules from a person's garment:
Prepare the Work Area and Gather Materials
Start by preparing a sterile work area to minimise the risk of contamination. Put on sterile gloves and lay out the necessary materials, including sterile scissors, adhesive tape (such as mini-tape or standard office tape), paper or plastic evidence bags, and sterile containers for storing the samples.
Collect the Garment
Place the garment in a sterile paper or plastic bag, being careful not to touch the areas from which you want to extract DNA. Seal the bag to prevent contamination during transportation. If the garment cannot be transported immediately, store it in a secure location until it can be processed.
Choose the Extraction Method
There are two common methods for extracting DNA from a garment:
- Adhesive Tape Method: Adhesive tape, such as standard office tape or mini-tape, is an effective way to lift DNA material from the fabric. Press the adhesive side of the tape onto the fabric, focusing on areas likely to have DNA transfer, such as collars and cuffs. Lift and remove the tape, and then place it onto a sterile surface for DNA extraction and amplification.
- Cutting and Extraction: Alternatively, you can cut out a section of the fabric using sterile scissors. This method may be preferred if you want to minimise the damage to the garment or if you need to preserve the item as evidence in its original state. Place the cut fabric into a sterile container for subsequent DNA extraction and amplification using commercial kits.
Handle and Store the Samples
Label the samples clearly, indicating the location from which the sample was taken and the date of collection. Store the samples in a secure and controlled environment to prevent degradation and contamination.
DNA Extraction and Amplification
The next steps involve extracting and amplifying the DNA, which can be done using commercial kits and standard DNA profiling methodologies. This process typically includes purifying the DNA, quantifying it, and then amplifying it through processes such as PCR (polymerase chain reaction). The amplified DNA can then be analysed to generate a DNA profile.
It is important to note that the success of DNA extraction and the quantity of DNA recovered can vary depending on factors such as the fabric type, environmental conditions, and the duration and nature of contact.
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Fix the molecules into a solvent
Solvation is the interaction of a solvent with dissolved molecules. Both ionized and uncharged molecules interact strongly with a solvent, and the strength and nature of this interaction influence many properties of the solute, including solubility, reactivity, and colour, as well as influencing the properties of the solvent such as its viscosity and density. The solvent molecules in the immediate vicinity of a solute particle often have a much different ordering than the rest of the solvent, and this area of differently-ordered solvent molecules is called the cybotactic region.
The molecular structure and properties of the solvent and solute determine which forces are at play. The similarity or complementary character of these properties between solvent and solute determines how well a solute can be solvated by a particular solvent. Solvent polarity is the most important factor in determining how well it solvates a particular solute. Polar solvents have molecular dipoles, meaning that part of the solvent molecule has more electron density than another part of the molecule. The part with more electron density will experience a partial negative charge while the part with less electron density will experience a partial positive charge.
Polar solvent molecules can solvate polar solutes and ions because they can orient the appropriate partially charged portion of the molecule towards the solute through electrostatic attraction. Water is the most common and well-studied polar solvent, but others exist, such as ethanol, methanol, acetone, acetonitrile, and dimethyl sulfoxide. Polar solvents are often found to have a high dielectric constant, although other solvent scales are also used to classify solvent polarity.
Solvents that can donate H-bonds are referred to as protic, while solvents that do not contain a polarized bond to a hydrogen atom and cannot donate a hydrogen bond are called aprotic. H-bond donor ability is classified on a scale (α). Protic solvents can solvate solutes that can accept hydrogen bonds. Similarly, solvents that can accept a hydrogen bond can solvate H-bond-donating solutes. The hydrogen bond acceptor ability of a solvent is classified on a scale (β). Some solvents, such as water, can both donate and accept hydrogen bonds, making them excellent at solvating solutes that can donate or accept (or both) H-bonds.
The molecular composition of a solvent describes the number of each kind of atom in the molecule, and the way in which they are arranged is called the structure. The formula C2H3Cl2F, for example, means there are two carbon atoms, three hydrogen atoms, two chlorine atoms, and one fluorine atom in a molecule of this solvent. The chemical name for this solvent is hydrochlorofluorocarbon (HCFC).
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Distil the solution through glassware
To distil the solution through glassware, you will need to use traditional glassware. The process involves capturing volatile molecules from a person's garment in a solvent for several weeks. This is what artist Ani Liu did when making her human-scented perfume.
The distillation process requires a lot of experimentation. You will need to try different solvents, concentrations, and settings until you find the right combination. This process is interesting because of the accuracy it provides. For instance, you might create a perfume that smells like a particular person, but when they smell it, they might say it smells like someone else entirely.
The process of capturing human scent in a bottle can be uncanny. It is important to note that body smell is a composite of many different smells, and there are likely hundreds, if not thousands, of trace compounds on human skin. Therefore, it is theoretically possible to create a human-scented perfume, but it is extremely challenging in practice.
The process of distilling the solution through glassware requires patience and precision. You will need to identify the specific molecules that contribute to the "human smell" and find the right ratio between them. This involves a lot of trial and error, as the ratios of the different compounds will need to be adjusted until the desired scent is achieved.
Overall, distilling the solution through glassware is a complex but intriguing process that requires a deep understanding of the chemical composition of human scent.
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Experiment with different solvents, concentrations, and settings
When creating a fragrance, it's important to experiment with different solvents, concentrations, and settings to achieve the desired scent and performance.
Solvents
Solvents are crucial in perfumery as they help dissolve raw materials like essential oils, which do not dissolve in water. The two main categories of solvents are polar and non-polar, with polarity referring to a solvent's ability to dissolve another substance. One popular solvent is perfumer's alcohol (ethanol), which is often derived from corn, grapes, or sugar cane. It is compatible with many substances, including resinous oils, and is widely used in the cosmetics industry. Another option is ethyl ethanoate, a clear liquid solvent known for its light, sweet, and fruity aroma. It is popular due to its low cost, rapid evaporation, and ability to leave no oily or alcoholic residue.
Concentrations
The fragrance concentration of a perfume refers to its strength and purity. Higher concentrations result in a more intense and long-lasting fragrance, as they contain more perfume oils and less alcohol. Common concentrations include Eau de Cologne (EDC) and Eau de Toilette. EDC has a lower concentration, typically around 2-5%, resulting in a shorter lasting power of about two hours. Eau de Toilette has a higher concentration and, therefore, a stronger and more enduring scent.
Settings
When mixing your perfume, it is essential to understand the different scent families, such as floral, oriental, woody, and fresh (citrus). Adding scents from neighbouring families creates harmony in your perfume. For example, you can combine top notes like lemon, orange, and grapefruit with middle notes of coriander, palmarosa, or lavender. The base note, which serves as the base of the perfume, should be added first and can include scents like patchouli, vetiver, or cedarwood.
To create your unique fragrance, you can use ingredients like vodka, essential oils, and fragrance oils. Sterilize your bottles and jars, especially if reusing them, and cover clear bottles with foil or wrapping paper to protect the fragrance from light. Experiment with different combinations, aging your fragrance in a cool, dark location for at least 48 hours to allow the scents to mingle and intensify. Finally, dilute your fragrance with distilled water, adding more water for a spray perfume.
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Frequently asked questions
Theoretically, yes. However, it would be challenging to identify and recreate the hundreds or thousands of trace compounds that contribute to an individual's body scent.
Artist Ani Liu captured volatile molecules from a person's garment by soaking the item in a solvent for several weeks and then distilling the solution.
Yes. The process of capturing and recreating human scent raises ethical questions about privacy and consent.
The process involves identifying and extracting the desired scent molecules, determining the correct ratios, and then blending them with a carrier oil or other base to create a stable perfume.
In addition to the complexity of identifying and recreating human scent molecules, there are potential health and safety considerations when working with chemicals and solvents.
