Lance Carson
Making perfume is an art form, and a challenging one to master. It requires patience and passion for blending fragrances. The process is simple: combine all the ingredients by following a perfume recipe. However, designing, refining, and adjusting your fragrance blend can be tricky. It is important to understand the layers of a fragrance and how they are created. Perfumes are a blend of different levels of scent, also called notes. The ideal ratio for blending notes is 30% top notes, 50% middle notes, and 20% base notes. You can use essential oils, fragrance oils, infused oils, and flavour extracts such as vanilla extract. Alcohol is a popular choice for merging ingredients because it evaporates quickly and helps diffuse the perfume's notes. You can also use perfumer's alcohol, which is reliable and of high quality. To measure your ingredients, it is recommended to use a small scale instead of drops to ensure accuracy. Once you have mixed your fragrance, place it in a cool, dark location for a minimum of 48 hours so that the scents can mingle and become stronger.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Ingredients | Essential oils, fragrance oils, infused oils, flavour extracts, vodka, distilled water, glycerine |
| Scents | Coriander, palmarosa, marjoram, basil, rosemary, rose geranium, petitgrain, lavender, patchouli, vetiver, frankincense, cedarwood, sandalwood, floral, oriental, woody, fresh, citrus |
| Notes | Top notes, middle notes, base notes |
| Ratios | 30% top notes, 50% middle notes, 20% base notes |
| Carrier oils | Sandalwood, jojoba, sweet almond, grape seed oil |
| Storage | Dark glass bottles |
| Application | Pulse points such as wrists, behind ears, inner elbows, belly button, behind knees |
| Tips | Use a small scale instead of drops for accurate measurements, pre-dilute ingredients at 10%, store ingredients in the fridge, test on skin before adding to perfume |
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What You'll Learn
Know the different notes
To make perfume, it is important to know the different notes. Perfumes are a blend of different levels of scent, also called "notes". These notes are classified according to how quickly they evaporate and how long they last. When you spray a fragrance on your skin, it moves through these notes in the following order:
Top notes are the initial scents that you smell when you first spray or apply perfume. They are also what disappears first, usually within 10 to 15 minutes. Top notes consist of small, light molecules that evaporate quickly. They form a person's initial impression of a perfume and are therefore very important in the selling of the product. The scent of this note class is usually described as "fresh", "assertive", or "sharp". Citrus and ginger scents are common top notes.
Middle notes, also known as heart notes, are the scents that you can smell once the top notes have evaporated. They typically last for about 2 to 3 hours and are the main body of the perfume. They emerge in the middle of the perfume's dispersion process and serve to mask the often unpleasant initial impression of base notes, which become more pleasant with time. The scent of middle note compounds is usually more mellow and "rounded". Scents from this note class disappear anywhere from twenty minutes to one hour after the application of a perfume. Lavender and rose scents are typical middle notes.
Base notes are the scents that you can smell once the middle notes have evaporated. They are the longest-lasting notes, and they can last for up to 4 to 5 hours, or even 24 hours, on your skin. Base notes are typically rich and heavy, and they provide depth and warmth to the perfume. They comprise the fragrance's foundation, making the scent last. Base notes bring depth and solidity to a perfume. Compounds of this class are often the fixatives used to hold and boost the strength of the lighter top and middle notes. Consisting of large, heavy molecules that evaporate slowly, compounds of this class of scents are typically rich and "deep". Examples of base notes include woody scents like sandalwood, cedarwood, patchouli, vetiver, frankincense, and musk.
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Understand ratios
Understanding ratios is a key part of making perfume. The fragrance is made up of different notes, which are layered to create a chord. The three notes are the base note, the heart or middle note, and the head or top note. The base note is the foundation of the fragrance, and the last to appear, while the heart note is the middle note, and the head note is the first scent you smell, which is strong and explosive, but fleeting.
The ratios of these notes are important to the overall scent. A common ratio is 2 parts base, 1 part heart, and 1 part head. However, some sources suggest a ratio of 20% base, 50% heart, and 30% head. It is also recommended to combine a maximum of 3-4 dominant notes. The ratios can be adjusted according to the strength of the oils used and personal preference.
The notes work together to create a harmonious scent. It is recommended to choose notes from the same family, such as citrus, woody, spicy, or floral. However, adding notes from neighbouring families can also create an interesting contrast. Popular top notes include citrus fruits and spices, such as lemon, orange, grapefruit, and bergamot. Middle notes are often floral, including jasmine, lavender, and rose. Base notes are usually rich and heavy, such as vanilla, sandalwood, and cedarwood.
The notes are combined with a carrier agent, such as jojoba, sweet almond, or grape seed oil. The general ratio is 80% carrier agent and 20% oils. However, this can vary depending on the desired concentration of the perfume. For example, a light perfume might have a lower concentration of fragrance, around 20%.
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Choose a carrier oil
Carrier oils are a crucial component of perfume-making as they dilute and carry the concentrated essential oils. They ensure that the fragrance is safe for skin application and also provide depth, longevity, and balance to the scent. The choice of carrier oil can significantly influence the final aroma of your perfume, so it is important to select the right one.
When choosing a carrier oil, consider factors such as skin compatibility, scent, and viscosity. If you have sensitive skin, opt for hypoallergenic oils like sweet almond or jojoba oil. Jojoba oil is a popular choice as it closely resembles the skin's natural sebum, ensuring excellent absorption and compatibility with various skin types. Additionally, its high stability helps maintain the integrity of the fragrance over time.
Fractionated coconut oil is another excellent option for maintaining fragrance longevity. Its lightweight and fast-absorbing nature allows the perfume to blend seamlessly with the skin, creating a lingering scent. Apricot seed oil is also a delightful choice, known for its light and silky texture that blends seamlessly with essential oils. Its faint, sweet aroma adds a subtle and pleasing note to the perfume.
Other carrier oils to consider include avocado oil, which is rich and emollient, providing a luxurious feel and imparting a velvety touch to the perfume. Sunflower oil is another option with a light and non-greasy texture, while kumkumadi oil offers an opulent aroma. Ultimately, the choice of carrier oil depends on your personal preferences and desired outcome for your perfume.
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Add alcohol
Making perfume is an art form, and it can take time to develop your skills and learn about the ingredients. It is important to be patient and experiment with different blends.
When adding alcohol to your perfume, there are a few things to consider. Firstly, the type of alcohol you use is important. Perfume alcohol, also known as perfumer's alcohol, is a popular choice and can be purchased from suppliers such as Mistral. You can also use high-quality vodka with an alcohol content of 80-100 proof (40%-50% alc/vol). If you are serious about perfumery, you may want to invest in 190-proof alcohol, although this can be difficult to find and expensive.
The amount of alcohol you add will depend on the concentration of perfume you want to create. For an alcohol-based perfume, a common ratio is 70% alcohol, 20% essential oils, and 10% distilled water. However, you can also dilute your ingredients at a lower concentration of 10% to make them easier to work with. This involves diluting 1 gram of your ingredient with 9 grams of alcohol for a total of 10 grams.
When mixing your perfume, it is recommended to add your base notes, middle notes, and then top notes to a carrier oil before adding the alcohol. This allows the scents to blend together. You can add approximately 25 drops of essential oil or fragrance oil to create your desired fragrance.
Once you have added the alcohol, it is important to let your perfume sit in a dark place for at least 48 hours to a week so that the scents can mingle and mature. After this aging process, you can smell your fragrance again and make adjustments by adding a few more drops of scent if needed. However, if you do add more scent, you will need to let the perfume age again.
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Bottle and store
Once you've created your unique fragrance, it's time to bottle and store it.
Firstly, ensure that your materials—bottles and droppers—are clean. Use a pipette to gently squeeze and slowly count out 20 drops of your base note into a 10ml bottle. Then, add 10 drops each of your heart and head notes. Close the bottle and shake it gently to mix the oils.
Store the bottle in a dark place, away from light, heat, and air, for about a week. This allows the oils and alcohol to blend and mature. After a week, check your blend and adjust if needed.
If you're satisfied with your fragrance, it's time to dilute it. For a 10ml bottle, use 40 drops of essential oil, 140 drops of alcohol, and 20 drops of distilled water. You can add more or less water depending on your desired consistency. Shake the bottle gently to mix the ingredients.
For storage, use dark glass bottles, preferably coloured glass, to protect your fragrance from light. You can reuse old bottles or find new ones at a dollar store. Keep your perfume in a cool, dark location to preserve its scent and quality.
Remember, creating your own perfume is an art, and it may take time and experimentation to perfect your blend. Enjoy the process, and don't be afraid to try new ingredients and combinations!
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Frequently asked questions
You will need a carrier oil (such as sandalwood, jojoba, sweet almond, or grape seed oil), essential oils or fragrance oils, and alcohol (vodka is a popular choice). You will also need distilled water and glycerine.
First, add your base notes, then your middle notes, and finally your top notes to your carrier oil. Then add alcohol to help merge the ingredients. Place the mixture in a cool, dark location for 48 hours to a month to allow the scents to mingle and strengthen. After ageing, dilute the fragrance with distilled water and glycerine, then pour into a dark glass bottle.
Notes are layers of scent. Top notes are what you smell first, but they disappear quickly. Middle notes are the core of the fragrance and determine its family (e.g. floral, oriental, woody, or fresh). Base notes are the foundation of the perfume, making the scent last on the skin.
Apply your perfume to your pulse points, such as your wrists, behind your ears, inner elbows, belly button, and behind your knees. Do not rub the perfume into your skin, as this can alter the scent. Apply to moisturised skin, as the body lotion will help the perfume last longer.
