Creating Scents: Diy Perfume Chemistry Project

how to make perfume chemistry project

Making perfume is an ancient practice that dates back thousands of years. In this chemistry project, we will explore the art of perfumery by experimenting with the enfleurage extraction method to create our own unique fragrances. We will learn how to extract floral scents from roses or lavender using vegetable shortening and alcohol, and investigate the number of rounds required to produce a pleasant perfume. Additionally, we will delve into the science of scent families, notes, and longevity, creating harmonious blends that appeal to our senses. With common ingredients and simple steps, we can craft personalized perfumes and understand the chemistry behind their captivating aromas.

Characteristics Values
Objective Learn about the art of making perfume, which is an ancient activity, and experiment with the enfleurage method of extraction
Materials Flowers (roses or lavender), vegetable shortening, alcohol, stove, scissors, cardboard, water, glycerine, bottles
Procedure Prepare enfleurage sandwiches, process into perfume, replace petals, test on volunteers, repeat
Notes Top, middle, and base notes; neighbouring families create harmony; longevity depends on formulation and concentration
Precautions Minor injury possible with stovetop; some alcohols may cause skin reactions; do not use methanol or methyl alcohol

shunscent

The enfleurage method of extraction

Cold enfleurage involves smearing a layer of purified animal fat, such as lard or tallow, onto a large glass plate (called a chassis). Botanical matter, typically petals or whole flowers, is then placed on the fat, and its scent is allowed to diffuse into the fat over 1–3 days. The botanicals are then replaced with fresh ones, and this process is repeated until the fat has reached the desired degree of fragrance saturation.

Hot enfleurage involves heating solid fats and stirring botanical matter into them. Spent botanicals are strained from the fat and replaced with fresh material until the fat is saturated with fragrance. This method is considered the oldest known procedure for preserving plant fragrance substances.

Once the fat is saturated with fragrance, it is called "enfleurage pomade". The enfleurage pomade can be sold as-is, or further processed by washing or soaking it in ethyl alcohol to extract the fragrant molecules. The alcohol is then separated from the fat and allowed to evaporate, leaving behind the absolute botanical fragrance. The spent fat can be used to make soaps, as it still retains some fragrance.

Enfleurage is a highly inefficient and costly process, but it is the only method for extracting the fragrant compounds from delicate flowers such as jasmine, tuberose, lilac, and spring bulbs. This process was developed in southern France in the 18th century for producing high-grade concentrates.

shunscent

Blending essential oils

When blending essential oils, it is important to have the right tools. You will need droppers, pipettes, or reducer caps, small glass storage or blending bottles, perfume blotters or cotton balls, and towels. It is also important to keep a pen and paper handy to write down the amounts of each oil used so that you can recreate your blend.

Start by formulating with around 10 drops of oil. You can adjust this amount based on the intensity of the oils you are using and your preference. Choose one dominant scent as your base note and build upon it with complementary scents. You can add new oils or boost an ingredient that may not be as prominent as you like.

Some popular essential oil combinations include:

  • Jasmine (fragrance) + Geranium (essential oil): Floral and slightly sweet, balancing and uplifting.
  • Bergamot (essential oil) + Amber (fragrance): Citrusy and warm, with a hint of resinous depth.
  • Cinnamon (essential oil) + Vanilla (fragrance): Spicy and sweet, reminiscent of baked goods.
  • Patchouli (essential oil) + Musk (fragrance): Earthy and musky, creating a deep and mysterious scent.
  • Lavender + Orange.
  • Cedarwood, Ginger, and Juniper Berry.
  • Cut grass, blackberry, magnolia, and honeysuckle.
  • Rose and Sandalwood.

Once you have created your blend, you can add it to a rollerball bottle with a carrier oil, such as vodka, or a small amount of alcohol. Add 2 tablespoons of distilled/spring water if you are making a perfume spray, and 5 drops of glycerine to help preserve the fragrance. Pour your perfume into a clean and sterile bottle, preferably coloured glass to protect it from the light.

shunscent

The science of scent

At its core, perfumery involves the extraction and blending of aromatic compounds, which can be found in natural sources such as fruits, flowers, herbs, and spices. These aromatic compounds are then dissolved in a solvent, typically alcohol, to create a fragrance that evaporates slowly, allowing the scent to linger and be released over time. The choice of solvent is crucial, as it not only affects the longevity of the scent but also its overall character. While ethanol is commonly used, other options like perfumer's alcohol, denatured alcohol, vodka, or Everclear are also popular, with each bringing its own characteristics and potential benefits to the perfume.

The structure of a perfume is often described in terms of "notes." Top notes are the initial scents that are noticed when a perfume is applied, and these include fragrances like citrus fruits or peppermint. These top notes then give way to the middle or heart notes, which emerge after the top notes fade and include scents like lavender or rosemary. Finally, the base notes form the foundation of the perfume and are usually deeper, more lasting scents like cedarwood or patchouli. The art of creating a harmonious perfume involves blending these notes skillfully, often combining scents from neighboring families to create a balanced fragrance.

One method of extracting fragrances from natural sources is enfleurage, which involves using vegetable shortening to absorb the scent from flowers like roses or lavender. This process can take multiple rounds to yield a pleasant perfume, and it is just one of many techniques used in the captivating world of perfumery.

shunscent

Creating harmony with fragrance families

Creating a harmonious fragrance is an art. There are four main fragrance families: woody, floral, amber, and fresh. Each of these families has subfamilies that share common olfactory characteristics and are likely to blend well together.

The woody family includes warm and opulent scents, mixing incense-like fragrances like sandalwood and patchouli with drier notes like cedar. The subfamilies of woods include Mossy Woods and Dry Woods. Woody fragrances can be combined with fresh citrus or aromatic head notes to curb their warmth. Woody Chypre, for example, combines dominant woody notes with traditionally Chypre compounds, including oak moss and labdanum.

The floral family includes oriental and floral notes that create a fresh fragrance with a spicy and rounded finish. Floral head notes can play with either fruity or woody heart characteristics.

The amber family includes hot spices such as cinnamon and cloves, blending in harmony with woods and resins. Amber can also be a base note in a fragrance, as seen in the example of Obsession Fragrance, where it is complemented by top notes of mandarin, bergamot, jasmine, rose, and orange blossoms, and middle notes of coriander, tagete, and armoise.

The fresh family encompasses bright, herby, citrusy, and oceanic scents. Aromatic, Citrus, Green, and Water are some of the subfamilies within this group. Aromatic scents include clean and fresh herbs mixed with lavender or woody notes. Citrus notes are zesty or tangy, like mandarins or bergamot. Green scents smell of freshly mowed lawns and crushed green leaves. Water notes evoke aquatic scents like sea spray or rain mixed with oceanic notes.

When creating a harmonious fragrance, it is best to choose notes from neighbouring families. For example, if you know you like floral oriental notes, look for a scent that also contains mossy and water notes. You can also refer to the fragrance wheel, a circular diagram invented by scent expert Michael Edwards, which illustrates the four scent families and their corresponding subfamilies. The fragrance wheel aids in identifying which families share common olfactory characteristics and are likely to blend well.

shunscent

Presentation and preservation

When it comes to presenting your perfume, you can opt for pretty glass bottles, preferably coloured glass. You can reuse old bottles or purchase new ones. Ensure that the bottles are clean and sterile by washing them with some rubbing alcohol and then running them through the dishwasher.

Before pouring your perfume into the bottle, it is important to age your fragrance. Place it in a cool, dark location for a minimum of 48 hours, up to a month. Aging allows the scents to mingle and become stronger. After aging, smell the fragrance and adjust by adding a few more drops of scent if needed. Remember to age it again if you make any adjustments.

Once you are satisfied with the scent, it is time to dilute it. Add two tablespoons of distilled or spring water, adjusting the amount for a spray perfume. Adding approximately five drops of glycerine will help to preserve the fragrance.

If you are using clear bottles, cover them with aluminium foil or wrapping paper to protect the fragrance from light, which can cause it to spoil. Label your perfume with the name of your creation and the date it was made.

To preserve your homemade perfume and ensure it maintains its scent over time, store it in a cool, dry place, away from direct sunlight or extreme temperatures. Keep the bottle tightly closed when not in use, and consider using a stoppered bottle to prevent air exposure.

Frequently asked questions

Written by
Reviewed by

Explore related products

Share this post
Print
Did this article help you?

Leave a comment