Creating Natural Fragrances: A Beginner's Guide To Aromatics

Making your own natural fragrance is a fun and rewarding process that allows you to create a unique scent that is healthier and cheaper than store-bought perfumes. Natural fragrances are more complex than synthetic ones, and by making your own, you can be sure of exactly what you are putting on your body. The process is simple and easy and can be done with essential oils and carrier oils, or with a combination of dried petals and oils.

Using essential oils

Essential oils are a great way to make natural fragrances, avoiding harmful toxins and synthetic fragrances. They are pure plant extracts, so only a tiny amount is needed, and they are very long-lasting. It's important to dilute essential oils before use and not to apply them directly to the skin.

Choosing Your Essential Oils

There are three types of fragrance notes: top, middle, and base notes. Top notes are typically the first thing you smell, followed by middle and then base notes. When making your fragrance, you select and add the oils in order from base to top.

When choosing which essential oils to blend, consider that citrus scents work well as head notes, being potent and assertive; light and airy florals are ideal as heart notes; and woodsy scents have longevity as base notes. However, you can mix any combination of scents you like. Here are some examples of essential oils in each category:

• Woody scents: cedarwood, labdanum, cognac extract, pine, and sandalwood.
• Musk scents: ambrette, white rose, cedarwood, and vetiver.
• Citrus scents: bergamot, lemon, and grapefruit.
• Herbal scents: lavender, chamomile, and rosemary.
• Floral scents: rose, geranium, iris, jasmine, magnolia, peony, and ylang-ylang.

Other Ingredients

In addition to essential oils, you will need a lightweight, non-greasy carrier oil. Good options include fractionated coconut oil, sweet almond oil, grapeseed oil, sunflower oil, tomato seed oil, or safflower oil. You can also use alcohol (such as perfumer's alcohol or pure grain alcohol) to dilute the essential oils and help disperse the perfume molecules. However, if you prefer not to use alcohol, you can use an alternative like witch hazel, vodka, or rum.

Creating Your Fragrance

• Choose your essential oils: select a combination of head, heart, and base notes.
• Add the essential oils to a glass bottle: use around 10-15 drops of each type of note, adjusting the amounts according to your preference.
• Fill the bottle with your carrier oil: leave a little space at the top.
• Shake the bottle gently: this combines the oils.
• Apply your fragrance: you can roll or dab a small amount on your wrists, behind your ears, neck, or hair ends.

You can customise your fragrance by experimenting with different essential oils and blends. It's best to let the mixture sit for a few days or even weeks to allow the scents to meld and intensify. Using a dark-coloured glass bottle can also help preserve the pure scents of the oils.

Precautions

When making perfume with essential oils, it's important to be aware of potential risks and follow safety guidelines. Some essential oils, such as citrus essences, can cause photosensitivity, while others may cause skin irritation or allergic reactions. Always stick to the recommended ratios and perform a patch test before widespread use. Additionally, some essential oils can be harmful to pets, so take necessary precautions if you have furry friends around.

Combining with carrier oils

Carrier oils are an essential component of perfume-making, acting as a base to blend and dilute essential oils. They are derived from the fatty portions of plants, such as seeds, nuts, or kernels, and are used to carry and disperse the aromatic molecules of essential oils, allowing the scent to linger on the skin and be released gradually. Carrier oils also contribute to the overall texture and longevity of the perfume.

When choosing a carrier oil, consider your skin type, scent compatibility, and absorption rate. For oily skin, lightweight oils like grapeseed or fractionated coconut oil are ideal, while richer oils like jojoba or argan are better suited for dry skin. If you want the scent of your essential oils to shine through, opt for a neutral-scented carrier oil. However, if you want to enhance a delicate blend, choose a lightly scented oil. Faster-absorbing oils are more suitable for perfumes intended for daily wear.

• Jojoba Oil: This oil is highly stable, maintaining the integrity of the fragrance over time. It closely resembles the skin's natural sebum, ensuring excellent absorption and compatibility with various skin types.
• Sweet Almond Oil: Sweet almond oil is light and easily absorbed, rich in essential fatty acids and vitamins, making it nourishing for the skin. It has a subtle nutty scent and a pale golden hue, adding warmth to the fragrance.
• Fractionated Coconut Oil: Unlike regular coconut oil, fractionated coconut oil remains liquid at room temperature and has a neutral scent, making it ideal for blending with essential oils. It is lightweight, non-greasy, and fast-absorbing, leaving the skin feeling fresh and fragrant.
• Grapeseed Oil: Grapeseed oil is lightweight, non-greasy, and rich in antioxidants. It has a mild and neutral scent, allowing the aroma of essential oils to take centre stage. It is quickly absorbed by the skin, ensuring the perfume lingers elegantly.
• Apricot Seed Oil: Apricot seed oil has a light and silky texture, blending seamlessly with essential oils to create enchanting fragrances. Its faint, sweet aroma adds a subtle and pleasing note to the perfume.
• Avocado Oil: Avocado oil is rich and emollient, imparting a velvety touch to the perfume. It is packed with vitamins, antioxidants, and essential fatty acids, making it ideal for sensitive or dry skin. Its mild aroma provides a gentle base for the fragrance of essential oils.
• Rosehip Seed Oil: Rosehip seed oil has a subtle earthy scent, providing a unique and alluring base note. It is enriched with vitamins, antioxidants, and essential fatty acids, offering skincare benefits in addition to its elegant scent.
• Sunflower Oil: Sunflower oil has a neutral scent, serving as an excellent base note to highlight the fragrance of essential oils. It is rich in essential fatty acids, vitamins, and antioxidants, nourishing and soothing the skin. Its light and non-greasy texture provides a smooth and comfortable application.
• Kumkumadi Oil: Kumkumadi oil is a luxurious blend of rare and precious ingredients, such as saffron and other botanicals. It has a rich and captivating aroma, adding an exotic and alluring note to the fragrance. Its fast absorption and non-greasy feel make it a delightful choice for perfume.

Choosing top, middle and base notes

When creating a natural fragrance, it's important to understand the different layers of scent that make up a perfume: the top, middle, and base notes. These notes work together to create a harmonious and well-rounded fragrance. Here are some tips for choosing and combining these notes to create a balanced and appealing natural fragrance.

Top Notes

Top notes, also known as head notes, are the first scents you detect after spraying a perfume. They create the crucial first impression and set the tone for the fragrance. Typically, these notes are fresh and sharp, with a lighter molecular structure that evaporates quickly, usually within 5 to 15 minutes. Examples of common top notes include citrus oils such as bergamot, lemon, tangerine, and magnolia, as well as light floral scents like lavender and rose. When choosing top notes, opt for scents that will create a pleasant initial burst before smoothly transitioning to the middle notes.

Middle Notes

Middle notes, also called heart notes, form the heart of the fragrance. They appear as the top notes start to fade, usually lasting around 20 to 60 minutes. These notes are well-rounded and pleasant, serving as a bridge between the top and base notes. Middle notes are often full-bodied and aromatic, including floral oils like jasmine, rose, and ylang-ylang, as well as spices like cinnamon and cardamom. When selecting middle notes, look for scents that complement both the initial impression of the top notes and the deeper tones of the base notes.

Base Notes

Base notes are the foundation of the fragrance, lingering on the skin long after the other notes have faded. They have a heavy molecular structure and are rich and deep, often including musk, woody notes, vanilla, and amber. Examples of common base notes are patchouli, sandalwood, and vetiver. When choosing base notes, keep in mind that they will be the underlying aroma throughout the wear of the perfume, so select scents that create a pleasant foundation for the other notes to build upon.

Creating a Balanced Fragrance

To create a well-rounded and appealing natural fragrance, it's important to balance the different notes. A general guideline is to use middle notes as the dominant element, comprising about 50-75% of the blend, while top notes make up 20-40%, and base notes contribute 5-10%. However, this is not an exact science, and you can adjust the proportions to suit your preferences. Experiment with different combinations and proportions of notes to create a unique and captivating natural fragrance.

Natural vs synthetic fragrances

Natural fragrances are aromatic materials derived from natural sources, such as plants, trees, and animals. They are often referred to as essential oils and are obtained through distillation, extraction, or expression. While natural fragrances are perceived as "green" and healthier, they have limitations. They may contain allergens or other potentially harmful chemicals. Additionally, the demand for natural fragrances contributes to deforestation, and climate change can affect their availability.

On the other hand, synthetic fragrances are created in laboratories using chemical processes. They replicate the smell of natural oils without the environmental impact of natural fragrances. Synthetic fragrances offer benefits such as consistent quality, longer shelf life, and a richer, more intense scent than their natural counterparts. They are also easily mass-produced and more stable, making them easier for perfumers to work with. However, synthetic fragrances have faced negative publicity due to the presence of parabens and phthalates, which have potential health risks.

The term "fragrance" on packaging can be misleading, as it can be used to hide up to 3,000 chemicals in beauty products. The International Fragrance Association has listed over 3,000 ingredients that could be used to create a fragrance, and companies are not required to disclose all the raw materials used. This lack of transparency has raised concerns about the potential health hazards of certain ingredients.

When creating a fragrance, it is important to consider sustainability, transparency, and the potential impact on health. While natural fragrances may be perceived as healthier, they can also contain harmful substances, and their production can negatively impact the environment. Synthetic fragrances, on the other hand, offer consistency and a longer-lasting scent but have been associated with certain health risks. Ultimately, both natural and synthetic fragrances have their benefits and drawbacks, and it is essential to make an informed choice based on individual preferences and values.

Making perfume spray, balm or body spray

Making your own natural fragrance is easy and can make a great, personalised gift. You can use essential oils to create a scent that you love, and there are endless combinations to experiment with.

Perfume Spray

To make a perfume spray, you will need a glass spray bottle. An 8-ounce bottle is a good size to use. You will also need vegetable glycerin, witch hazel, distilled water and your chosen essential oils.

Add 1 tablespoon each of vegetable glycerin and witch hazel to the bottle, along with 6 ounces of distilled water. The vegetable glycerin acts as an emulsifier, helping the oils and water to mix. Then, add 28-35 drops of essential oil. Start with 30 drops and add more if you would like a stronger scent. Seal the bottle and shake well to combine the ingredients. You will need to shake the bottle again before each use.

Perfume Balm

To make a solid perfume balm, you will need beeswax, a carrier oil such as sweet almond oil, and essential oils. You will also need a container for your balm, such as a locket or a tin.

First, decide how much balm you want to make. You will need equal parts beeswax and carrier oil. For a small batch, use 2 tablespoons of each. Heat the beeswax and oil in a double boiler over low-medium heat, stirring as the beeswax melts. Once melted, remove from the heat and experiment with adding your essential oils. You will need around 15-20 drops per tablespoon of carrier oil, but you can add more or less depending on how strong you want the scent to be. Once you are happy with the scent, pour the mixture into your chosen container and leave it to harden.

Body Spray

For a body spray, you will need a glass spray bottle, 70-proof alcohol or vodka, distilled water and essential oils. Add 20 drops of a top note essential oil, 15 drops of a middle note and 10 drops of a base note. Then add 5 ounces of alcohol and 1 ounce of distilled water. Seal the bottle and shake well. Over the next 72 hours, shake the bottle 1-2 times a day to ensure the oils are fully combined. Store your body spray in a cool, dark place.

Frequently asked questions