Antonio Mcgowan
Marigold, a flower native to the plains of America, has been used in perfumes for its unique aroma, often described as a mix of fruity, green apple-like notes with a hint of herbaceousness. While marigold essential oil is an easily obtainable raw material for perfumers, it is underutilised in contemporary perfumes. This may be due to the fact that its scent is quite strong and heavily restricted by the International Fragrance Association (IFRA). In this text, we will explore the different ways in which marigold can be used in perfumery, from its use as a top note in floral and oriental-floral blends to its potential in men's fragrances.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Marigold species | Tagetes, Indian Marigold, Mexican Marigold |
| Marigold colour | Golden, orange, yellow, white with maroon highlights |
| Scent | Fruity, green apple, herbaceous, camphoraceous, musky, pungent, floral |
| Marigold essential oil | Used as a raw material in perfumes, food, tobacco, and skincare products |
| Marigold in perfumery | Used as a top note in floral and oriental-floral blends, e.g. Loulou by Cacharel |
| Marigold oil restrictions | T. erecta prohibited; T. patula and T. minuta restricted to 0.01% |
| Marigold history | Used by Mayans and Aztecs in divination rituals and as a psychotropic |
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What You'll Learn
History of marigold perfume
The history of marigold perfume is a rich and fascinating one, dating back to ancient civilizations such as the Mayans and Aztecs. The flower, with its vibrant hues of red and gold, was considered sacred and played a significant role in their cultural and spiritual practices.
The Aztecs, for instance, smoked marigold as a psychotropic substance to enter a trancelike state of lucidity or dreaming. They also utilized its narcotic properties to dull the senses of sacrificial victims before they were offered to their Fire God, Huehueteotl. The Mayans, on the other hand, used a specific variety of marigold, "Tagetes lucida," which was believed to induce a state of clarity and alertness.
The word "Tagetes" itself has an interesting etymology. It is derived from Tages, an Etruscan prophet and seer who founded their pantheon. This connection to divination made marigold a flower of choice in rituals aimed at catching a glimpse of the future. The Romans, who adopted this belief, further spread the use of marigold in divination practices.
Beyond its spiritual significance, marigold has also been associated with immortality. Known as "the bloom of immortality," it is a heliotrope, opening at dawn and closing as the sun goes down, always following the course of the sun. This unique characteristic, along with its vibrant colours, made it a perfect offering to Sun gods.
While the Indian marigold is visually common, its fragrance is distinct and recognizable, with notes of herbaceous, camphoraceous, fruity, and ketonic hints of overripe apples. This unique aroma has been described as carnal, and even akin to rotting flesh. Despite its strong scent, marigold has been underutilized in contemporary perfumes, though it holds a place in both masculine and feminine fragrances.
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Sourcing marigold flowers
Marigolds are a genus of herbaceous plants in the sunflower family. They are native to North and South America but are grown worldwide. The flowers are golden, orange, yellow, or white, with vibrant maroon highlights. Marigolds are also known as "the herb of the sun" due to their striking colour saturation and bright, cheerful feel. They symbolise passion and creativity.
When sourcing marigold flowers, it is important to consider the time of year. In the US, marigolds are available from September to November. You can source them in bulk at wholesale prices from suppliers such as Blooms by the Box, who offer free shipping on orders over $199 delivered Tuesday to Friday anywhere in the continental USA. However, it is worth noting that there have been instabilities in flower supplies, shipping delays, and product sourcing issues. Therefore, it is advisable to check the latest information and place orders in advance if possible.
Another option is to grow your own marigolds from seeds. Burpee offers a range of marigold seeds, including unique varieties with bicolor pastel pink, rose, and yellow blooms, as well as large, showy blooms that change colour as the flowers mature. Growing your own marigolds from seeds allows you to have a continuous supply of flowers throughout the season until frost.
Alternatively, you can purchase marigold plants from local garden centres or online retailers like The Home Depot. They offer various marigold plant models at different price points, ranging from $1.98 to $24.98. These plants can add an explosion of vibrant colour to your garden or bouquet.
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Extraction methods
Marigold, a flower native to the plains of North and South America, has a unique aroma. Its scent is often described as a mix of bitter herbs, ripe apples, and green leaves with a hint of herbaceousness. The flower is also said to have a musky and pungent scent.
To extract the essence of marigold for perfume, one can use the following methods:
Essential Oil Extraction:
Marigold essential oil is obtained through steam distillation of the flowers. This method involves placing the flowers in a distillation apparatus, where steam passes through the plant material, separating the essential oil from the flowers. The steam and oil mixture then condense into a liquid state, forming two layers: the aqueous layer and the oil layer. The oil layer, containing the marigold essential oil, is then collected and stored. This method is commonly used to extract essential oils from various plants and flowers, including marigold.
Solvent Extraction:
This technique involves using a solvent, such as superfluid carbon dioxide (CO2), ethanol, or other specialised solvents, to dissolve the aromatic compounds present in marigold flowers. The solvent acts as a medium to capture and preserve the fragrance of the flowers. After extraction, the solvent is separated from the aromatic compounds through processes like evaporation or distillation, leaving behind the concentrated fragrance or absolute. Solvent extraction is a versatile method that can access a wide range of aromatic compounds.
Infusion:
Marigold flowers can be infused in a carrier oil, such as olive oil, to create a scented oil. This method involves heating the flowers in the carrier oil over a low flame for several hours. The oil absorbs the fragrance of the flowers, resulting in a scented oil that can be used as a base for perfume or applied directly to the skin.
Absolutes:
Absolutes are highly concentrated, solvent-extracted fragrances. While they are similar to essential oils, absolutes often contain more complex mixtures of aromatic compounds, resulting in a more nuanced fragrance. To create absolutes, solvents like ethanol or hexane are used to extract the fragrant compounds from the marigold flowers. The solvent is then removed through processes like evaporation, leaving behind the absolute.
When creating a marigold perfume, these extraction methods can be used individually or in combination to capture the flower's unique fragrance and incorporate it into a perfume blend.
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Blending with other notes
Marigold is a versatile ingredient that can be blended with other notes to create unique and captivating fragrances. Its fresh, fruity, and floral facets make it a perfect addition to a variety of perfume compositions. Here are some ideas for blending marigold with other notes:
Fruity and Floral Notes
Marigold's inherent fruity and floral characteristics make it an ideal pairing with other fruity and floral notes. For example, the bestseller Loulou by Cacharel from the 1980s combines marigold with blackcurrant, plum, and anise, resulting in a sun-drenched, floral heart that dries down to a powdery base. This blend showcases the olfactory duality often found in floral or oriental fragrances. The fruity-floral combination adds a touch of freshness and sweetness to the overall scent, creating an ethereal and captivating fragrance.
Woody and Spicy Notes
Marigold can also be blended with woody and spicy notes to create more complex and masculine fragrances. In perfumes such as King of Cool by Steve McQueen and Aura for Men by Jacomo, marigold is introduced as a heart note, adding a unique twist to the traditional woody and spicy accords. The warmth and depth of the woody notes complement the freshness of marigold, while the spice adds an intriguing dimension to the overall composition.
Green and Herbaceous Notes
Given marigold's association with green apple and herbaceous aromas, blending it with other green and herbaceous notes can create a natural and invigorating fragrance. Bitter herbs, ripe apples, and green leaves can be combined with marigold to craft a scent that evokes the essence of a lush, verdant garden. This blend captures the crispness of freshly cut grass and the crispness of autumn fruits, resulting in a perfume that is both refreshing and sophisticated.
Earthy and Sensual Notes
For a more exotic and sensual fragrance, marigold can be paired with earthy and sensual notes. The Mexican Marigold fragrance oil by DOOP Fragrance Co. is a perfect example of this combination. It opens with lively marigold blossoms and sweet Mirabelle, then transitions to earthy Orris Root and resinous Cistus Incanus. The base notes of musk, Olibanum, and Ambroxan evoke a blend of sensuality and tradition, capturing the essence of a sun-drenched garden in Mexico.
Sweet and Musky Notes
Marigold's versatility allows it to blend seamlessly with sweet and musky notes as well. By combining marigold with notes like vanilla, honey, or tonka bean, a warm and inviting fragrance can be created. The sweetness of these notes softens the pungency of marigold, resulting in a cozy and comforting scent. Additionally, the natural muskiness of marigold can be enhanced with other musky notes, creating a sophisticated and alluring perfume.
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Using your marigold perfume
Marigold perfume is a versatile fragrance that can be used in a variety of ways to enhance your daily routine and elevate your sensory experiences. Here are some ideas on how to use your marigold perfume:
Fragrance for Special Occasions
Marigold is often associated with celebrations and happiness. Its vibrant, sunny appearance and continuous blooming throughout the summer have earned it the nickname "summer's bride." The scent of marigold is unique and captivating, with notes of ripe apples, green leaves, and a hint of herbaceousness. Its fragrance can be both fruity and ketonic, with a slight hint of overripe apples, creating a complex and intriguing aroma. Wear your marigold perfume on special occasions, such as weddings, anniversaries, or any event where you want to feel confident and cheerful. The scent will not only uplift your mood but also leave a memorable impression on those around you.
Enhancing Your Self-Care Rituals
The soothing and refreshing qualities of marigold make it an excellent addition to your self-care rituals. Use your marigold perfume during your morning or evening routines to create a calming and indulgent atmosphere. Apply a few drops to your wrists, neck, or pulse points, and take a moment to inhale the scent deeply. The aroma of marigold can provide a sense of relaxation and serenity, making it perfect for unwinding after a long day or setting a peaceful tone for the day ahead.
Fragrancing Your Space
Your marigold perfume can also be used to fragrance your living or working space. A few spritzes of the perfume can instantly transform the ambiance of a room. The scent of marigold has the power to evoke a sun-drenched garden, filling your space with a bright and cheerful atmosphere. Whether you're looking to create a relaxing sanctuary or a vibrant and inspiring environment, marigold perfume can help set the desired mood. Additionally, the scent of marigold can enhance your meditation or yoga practice, promoting a sense of calm and mindfulness.
Adding a Touch of Luxury to Bath and Body Care
Marigold perfume can be a luxurious addition to your bath and body care routine. Add a few drops of the perfume to your bathwater for a sensory escape. The steam will carry the marigold scent, creating a spa-like experience. You can also apply the perfume to your body lotion or oil, infusing your skin with the captivating fragrance. The scent of marigold will linger on your skin, providing an uplifting experience throughout the day. Additionally, marigold has medicinal properties, known to treat skin issues and inflammation, making it a perfect choice for a soothing and fragrant body care routine.
Gifting and Sharing
Your homemade marigold perfume can make a thoughtful and unique gift for loved ones. Present it as a special token of appreciation or celebrate milestones and occasions. The captivating scent of marigold will be a delightful surprise for those who receive it. Sharing your marigold perfume allows others to experience the beauty of this fragrance and creates a lasting sensory memory associated with you.
These are just a few ideas to get you started on using your marigold perfume. Feel free to experiment and explore other creative ways to incorporate this enchanting fragrance into your life.
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Frequently asked questions
Marigold is a member of the sunflower family and has a musky, pungent scent with fruity, green apple-like notes and a hint of herbaceousness.
Marigold flowers are sometimes referred to as "summer's bride" and are often used in wedding ceremonies. Its essential oil can be added to perfumes, and it blends well with fruity notes of blackcurrant, plum, and anise. It can also be mixed with tansy, chamomile, iris, tonka bean, and coumarin.
Loulou by Cacharel, a bestseller from the 1980s, combines marigold with fruity notes. Other perfumes include Eau Cuivrée by Montana, Elysium by Clarins, King of Cool by Steve McQueen, and Aura for Men by Jacomo.
Marigold is native to the plains of North and South America and has been transplanted to other countries such as South Africa, Madagascar, and Rwanda. It has been used for its medicinal properties and is considered a symbol of love and commitment in some cultures. The Mayans and Aztecs used marigold for its fragrance and narcotic properties.
