Anisha Riggs
Le Labo is a Brooklyn-based perfume brand founded by Fabrice Penot and Edouard Roschi in 2006. The brand offers a range of unique, oil-based unisex fragrances that are known for their intoxicating blend of notes and long-lasting scent. In addition to their pre-created fragrances, Le Labo also offers customized creations, allowing customers to personalize their chosen scent with a special message on the bottle. With a presence in cities like New York, Tokyo, and Paris, Le Labo has gained worldwide recognition for its high-quality, soulful fragrances. Recreating a Le Labo perfume at home can be challenging and expensive, requiring access to high-quality ingredients and a perfumer's organ, as well as a significant investment of time and money.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Founders | Fabrice Penot and Edouard Roschi |
| Year founded | 2006 |
| Location | Brooklyn-based |
| Fragrance type | Oil-based, unisex |
| Fragrance composition | Blend of sandalwood, papyrus, cedar, and leather |
| Fragrance creation | Custom-made, hand-formulated on demand |
| Fragrance customization | Bespoke label with location, date, and client name |
| Price range | ¥7,875 for 50 milliliters to ¥75,600 for an extra-large flask |
| Other products | Shower gel, body lotion, massage oil, shampoo, conditioner, candles |
| DIY perfume kits | $100-$200 |
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What You'll Learn
Sourcing materials: Essential oils, alcohol, and/or carrier oils
When it comes to making perfume, the materials you use will make or break the final product. Essential oils, carrier oils, and alcohol are the key ingredients in perfume-making, and choosing the right ones is an art.
Essential Oils
Essential oils are the foundation of perfume-making. They are the building blocks that create the unique scent profile of your perfume. These oils are highly concentrated and potent, so a little goes a long way. You can find a wide variety of essential oils, each with its own distinct aroma, such as clementine, eucalyptus, cascarilla bark, and cypress.
Alcohol
Alcohol is a key ingredient in traditional perfumes, acting as a solvent to dissolve and blend essential oils and other aromatic compounds. The type of alcohol commonly used in perfumery is ethanol, specifically denatured ethanol, which has been treated to make it unfit for consumption. However, alcohol can cause skin irritation and dryness, especially for those with sensitive skin, so some perfumers may opt for alcohol-free alternatives.
Carrier Oils
Carrier oils, also known as base oils, are just as important as essential oils. They serve as the foundation that enhances the longevity and intensity of your perfume. Carrier oils are derived from plant or vegetable sources and can significantly influence the aroma and quality of the final product.
Some popular carrier oils include:
- Jojoba oil: This oil is a favourite among perfumers because it resembles the skin's natural sebum, ensuring excellent absorption and compatibility with various skin types. Jojoba oil is also highly stable, maintaining its integrity over time.
- Sweet almond oil: Sweet almond oil is lightweight, easily absorbable, and rich in essential fatty acids and vitamins, making it nourishing for the skin. It is often used in perfumes with a soft and subtle scent.
- Fractionated coconut oil: Unlike regular coconut oil, fractionated coconut oil remains liquid, making it easy to blend with essential oils. It leaves a non-oily finish and is a versatile choice.
- Grapeseed oil: Grapeseed oil has a neutral scent and is compatible with many essential oils. Its lightweight nature allows for quick absorption, ensuring that your chosen scent takes centre stage.
- Apricot seed oil: This oil is known for its silky texture and skin-nourishing properties, making it ideal for creating luxurious and long-lasting evening perfumes.
The choice of carrier oil depends on the desired effect and the specific characteristics of the oil. Each carrier oil brings something unique to the table, impacting the intensity, longevity, and skin-friendliness of your perfume.
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Diluting oils: Using alcohol for perfume consistency
When making perfume, the carrier you use will influence the length of time the scent lasts and the range at which others can smell it. Alcohol-based perfumes are typically sprayable and carry the scent further because the alcohol evaporates first and takes some of the fragrance with it. This creates a cloud of scent that envelops the wearer.
On the other hand, oil-based perfumes are moisturising and keep the scent closer to the skin because the oil soaks into the pores. The scent will also increase with body heat. However, oil-based perfumes are not suitable for spray application.
Diluting essential oils before blending makes them easier to work with, especially when using expensive materials, as it allows for the addition of trace amounts of strong materials and prevents wastage. Diluting in alcohol also helps the material to evaporate, giving a fuller profile of the scent.
Perfumers' alcohol, or denatured ethyl alcohol, is commonly used to dilute perfume materials. It acts as a preservative and is also useful for evaluating the odour profile of materials when training. Di Propylene Glycol is another solvent used to dilute insoluble materials and can be used in non-alcoholic fragrance bases. Benzyl benzoate and benzyl alcohol are also used to aid the blending of challenging materials, but these are aromachemicals and may not be suitable for natural perfumes.
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Packaging: Using spray or rollerball bottles
When it comes to packaging your perfume, you can opt for spray or rollerball bottles. Both options have their advantages and can be great choices, depending on your preferences and intended use.
Spray bottles are a classic choice for perfumes and are often associated with a fine mist application. They are ideal for applying perfume to a larger area, such as the neck and wrists, and provide a quick and easy application method. Rollerball bottles, on the other hand, offer a more targeted application. They are perfect for applying perfume to pulse points, such as the wrists, neck, and behind the ears, providing a more concentrated scent in specific areas.
Le Labo, a renowned perfume brand, offers a unique packaging experience. They create each customer's fragrance on the spot, with a bespoke label listing the location, date, and client's name. This adds a special touch to the packaging, making it feel exclusive and tailored to the individual.
When choosing between spray or rollerball bottles, consider your intended use and preference for application style. Spray bottles are versatile and suitable for a wide range of perfumes, while rollerballs can be perfect for more targeted and concentrated applications. Ultimately, the choice is yours, and you can even opt for both options to cater to different preferences and scenarios.
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Cost: Materials can be expensive in small amounts
Making your own perfume can be an expensive endeavour, especially if you're just starting and experimenting with different scents. While you can make something that smells nice inexpensively, it often requires a certain level of experience to do so. Acquiring this experience can be costly, as it generally requires access to expensive equipment and materials.
One source estimates that learning the art of perfumery could cost thousands of dollars and take years of time. In addition, creating your own fragrances requires high-quality ingredients, which can be expensive to buy in small amounts. For example, essential oils, which are commonly used in perfumery, can be quite costly in small quantities.
Another factor contributing to the cost is the potential for waste. Creating fragrances often involves a lot of trial and error, which means you may end up throwing out a lot of unused or unsuccessful mixtures. This can be especially true for those new to perfumery, who may need to go through several batches before creating something they're truly happy with.
Furthermore, the process of creating a perfume often involves diluting pure fragrance oil in alcohol or carrier oil. These carrier substances can be expensive, especially if you're using high-quality ingredients. As a result, the cost of materials can quickly add up, making the creation of perfumes a potentially expensive hobby or business venture.
However, it's worth noting that some companies, like Le Labo, offer custom fragrances that are formulated by hand and made to order, providing a unique experience for customers. While these made-to-order fragrances can be costly, they offer a level of personalisation and craftsmanship that may be worth the investment for some.
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Practice: Creating professional scents takes time and practice
Creating professional-grade perfumes takes time and practice. It is not a coincidence that perfumes have traditionally been a pursuit of the rich. While it is possible to make nice-smelling fragrances inexpensively, it requires a certain level of experience to do so. Acquiring this experience can be costly, as it often requires access to expensive equipment and raw materials.
Fabrice Penot and Edouard Roschi, the founders of Le Labo, started their company with nothing but their savings and a dream of creating high-quality perfumes. They emphasise that the quality of the liquid in the bottle is the most vital element, and this is what sets them apart in the fragrance industry.
Developing a distinctive scent that stands out from the crowd requires a nuanced understanding of different notes and their interactions. It takes time and experimentation to learn how to construct accords and handle raw materials skillfully. The process of blending various essences, such as pepper, gaïac, labdanum, and cedar, to create a harmonious fragrance is intricate and demands a refined sensory palette.
Additionally, the art of perfumery extends beyond the mere mixing of scents. It involves understanding the complex interactions between different notes as they evolve over time. A well-crafted perfume should have a pleasing opening, middle, and base note that lingers, creating a memorable olfactory experience. Achieving this balance requires a meticulous approach to testing and refining, ensuring that each note complements the others without overwhelming them.
While it may be tempting to invest in DIY kits to create your own perfumes, the results may not live up to expectations. These kits typically offer a limited range of fragrance oils, and the end product may resemble a pleasant room spray rather than a sophisticated perfume. To truly master the art of perfumery, be prepared for a lengthy journey that demands dedication, patience, and a substantial financial investment.
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Frequently asked questions
Le Labo is a Brooklyn-based perfume brand founded by Fabrice Penot and Edouard Roschi in 2006. The company creates high-quality, oil-based unisex perfumes.
Le Labo's perfumes are layered with intoxicating blends of notes. One spritz can last all day. The brand is known for its best-selling scent, Santal 33, a blend of sandalwood, papyrus, cedar, and leather.
Prices start at ¥7,875 for 50 milliliters and can go up to ¥75,600 for an extra-large flask.
Le Labo has 56 stand-alone boutiques worldwide, including in New York and Tokyo.
Le Labo allows customers to customise their fragrances with a bespoke label listing the location, date, and client name. However, the brand does not disclose information on creating the perfume itself. To learn the art of perfumery, one would need to invest time and money, as it requires access to expensive equipment and high-quality ingredients.
