Making Fragrance Oils: Extracting Scents From Flowers

There are several ways to make fragrance oil from flowers. One method is to use a crockpot or saucepan to heat up a mixture of flowers, herbs, and vegetable oil. The flowers are then strained out, and grated beeswax is added to the oil. This mixture is then transferred to containers and allowed to harden, creating a solid perfume. Another method is to use the enfleurage process, where flower petals are covered with a carrier oil such as babassu oil or coconut oil and left to infuse for 12-24 hours. The petals are then replaced with fresh ones, and the process is repeated until the desired fragrance level is achieved. Finally, any excess water is removed from the oil using a pipette.

Selecting flowers

Roses, lilies, and carnations are good options to consider. Roses, in particular, can produce a very intense and obvious scent. Interestingly, flowers that don't smell too floral initially can still work quite well in the fragrance-making process.

When selecting flowers, it is important to gather a good amount of petals. You will need enough petals to fill a jar or container, ensuring they are packed tightly. The more petals you have, the stronger the fragrance will be.

It is also important to choose fresh, vibrant flowers. The quality of the flowers will impact the final product. If you are picking flowers from your garden, consider the time of year and the weather conditions. For example, a drought may impact the scent and health of certain flowers.

Once you have selected your flowers, carefully pluck the petals. Remove the stems and any other parts of the flower that are not needed. You can use your fingers or a pestle and mortar to crush and bruise the petals before placing them in the jar.

Removing petals

To make fragrance oil from flowers, the first step is to select your flowers. Almost all flowers should provide a result, but for some, the fragrance may be very faint. Pick flowers early in the morning when the oils are at their peak. Blooms that are just beginning to open contain the most fragrance. Avoid flowers that are in full bloom, as their scent has begun to fade.

For this step, the important parts of the flower is the petals, so pull those off and use your fingers – or a pestle and mortar – to crush and bruise them before putting them into a jar (or anything airtight). Make sure that you cram as many petals into the jar as you can.

Seal the jar, then tap it lightly with a wooden mallet to bruise the petals and release the fragrance oils. You can also use a zippered food storage bag for this step.

Alternatively, if you are using the enfleurage method, heat your carrier oil until it becomes fully liquid. Add vitamin E and mix well. Add the flower petals to your glass bowl and then pour the oil over the petals. Cover and keep in a warm place.

Choosing a carrier oil

When crafting a perfume, choosing the right carrier oil is an important step. Carrier oils, also known as base oils, are the foundation of a perfume upon which essential oils are built. They are used to dilute and carry essential oils, allowing them to be safely applied to the skin. The choice of carrier oil can significantly influence the final product's aroma, longevity, and overall quality.

Skin compatibility

It is important to select a carrier oil that is suitable for your skin type. Some carrier oils, such as sweet almond oil, are known for their light and easily absorbable nature, making them ideal for individuals with sensitive skin. Jojoba oil is another popular choice as it closely resembles the skin's natural sebum, ensuring excellent absorption and compatibility with various skin types.

Scent

Carrier oils have their own unique aromas, which can either complement or interfere with the scent of the essential oils. For example, coconut oil has a sweet and energizing aroma, while grapeseed oil has a neutral scent, allowing the pure essence of the essential oils to take centre stage.

Viscosity

The viscosity or thickness of the carrier oil can affect the final consistency of your perfume. For instance, fractionated coconut oil remains liquid and is non-greasy, making it a versatile choice for perfume makers. On the other hand, jojoba oil is a liquid wax with a long shelf life and a stable consistency.

Nourishing properties

Some carrier oils are rich in nutrients and antioxidants, providing additional skincare benefits. For instance, sweet almond oil is high in essential fatty acids, vitamins C and E, and antioxidants, making it a nourishing choice for the skin. Apricot kernel oil is also renowned for its skin-nourishing properties, including its high content of oleic acid and vitamins.

Fragrance evolution

Carrier oils play a role in ensuring that the fragrance evolves gracefully over time. Some carrier oils, such as avocado oil, are known for their ability to add depth and complexity to fragrances, resulting in rich and sophisticated scents.

• Jojoba oil: Versatile, similar to skin's natural sebum, highly stable, ideal for blending.
• Sweet almond oil: Light, easily absorbable, nourishing, rich in fatty acids, vitamins, and antioxidants, soft and subtle scent.
• Fractionated coconut oil: Lightweight, non-greasy, liquid at all temperatures, sweet aroma, energizing scent.
• Grapeseed oil: Neutral scent, compatible with many essential oils, lightweight, quick absorption.
• Apricot kernel oil: Silky texture, skin-nourishing, rich in oleic acid and vitamins, long-lasting scent.
• Mango seed oil: Light texture, exotic mango aroma, fresh and tropical scent, subtle sweetness.
• Rosehip seed oil: Delicate and elegant scent, slightly woody and floral notes, skincare benefits.
• Sunflower oil: Light and non-greasy, mild aroma, neutral base, accentuates natural vibrancy of floral, herbal, or citrusy scents.
• Kumkumadi oil: Luxurious, aromatic richness, skin-rejuvenating properties, woody and spicy undertones, exotic allure.
• Avocado oil: Rich and nourishing, velvety texture, earthy aroma, adds depth and complexity.

Mixing petals and oil

The first step is to select your flowers. Almost all flowers should produce a result, but some may be very faint. Pick your favourite flower or try a herb. Roses, lilies, and carnations are good options, and roses, in particular, produce an intense and obvious smell.

Next, you'll need to remove the petals from your chosen flowers. You'll want a good amount of petals, so make sure to pick a large bunch. Use your fingers or a pestle and mortar to crush and bruise the petals before putting them into a jar or any container that can be sealed airtight. Cram as many petals into the jar as possible.

Now it's time to add the oil. You can use olive oil, corn oil, sesame oil, babassu oil, or coconut oil. Heat your chosen oil until it becomes fully liquid, then add any additional ingredients, such as Vitamin E, and mix well. You'll need a minimum of 50 mL of oil to complete the process effectively. Pour the oil over the petals in the jar, covering all of them completely. Seal the jar and shake it to ensure that all the petals are coated in oil and the mixture is combined.

After mixing the petals and oil, you'll need to leave the mixture to infuse. Keep the sealed jar in a dark place for 24 hours. During this time, the oil will absorb the scent from the flower petals.

Once the infusion is complete, you can drain and strain the mixture. Remove the petals from the oil using a strainer and collect the oil in another container. Press down on the petals against the strainer with a spoon to extract as much of the scented oil as possible.

Now you have your flower-scented fragrance oil! You can use this oil as-is, or you can mix it into a formulation in the oil phase, depending on your preferred carrier base.

Straining the oil

Once you have left your flower mixture to sit for 24 hours, you can remove your jars from the dark and take off the lids. The scent from the flowers should now have been fully absorbed by the oil.

Use a strainer to drain the flower petals, collecting the oil in another container. Then, use a spoon to press down on the petals against the strainer to extract as much of the scented oil as possible.

If you want to intensify the oil, you can opt for repeat infusions. To do this, add another batch of dried petals to the scented oil and repeat the process.

When the oil is ready, strain out the plant material for the final time and return the oil to the pan.

If you are using beeswax in your mixture, now is the time to add it. Grated beeswax should be added to the oil and stirred in. Most of it will melt on its own in the hot oil, but you may need to heat it again on low to melt all the wax.

Once the beeswax is melted, transfer your perfume into containers. You can use mini mint tins, baby food jars, or other small lidded containers.

Frequently asked questions