Crafting Cologne Balm: Using Nature's Scents

Making cologne balm from plant matter is a fun and creative process that allows you to express your unique personality through scent. The first step is to gather your ingredients and materials, which include essential oils, alcohol, and plant matter such as fresh flowers or spices. You'll also need some equipment like glass bottles and a fine-sieve strainer. Once you have your supplies, you'll blend your chosen essential oils, following the fragrance scale to ensure a well-balanced scent. After blending, you'll need to let the fragrance mature for several weeks before filtering and bottling your cologne. With some time and experimentation, you can create a signature cologne balm that's truly yours.

Selecting the right essential oils

The key to making an appealing cologne that lasts is to use a combination of top, middle, and base notes. Top notes are the first scents you'll smell, followed by middle notes, and then base notes, which are the longest-lasting. The typical ratio is 60% base notes, 30% middle notes, and 10% top notes, but you can experiment to find the right formula for the type of profile you're trying to create.

When selecting essential oils, it's important to consider the aroma categories they fall into. Here are some examples of essential oils in each category:

Citrus Aromas

• Bergamot
• Orange
• Lime
• Lemongrass

Herbal Aromas

• Fennel
• Spearmint
• Camphor
• Clary Sage

Resin Aromas

• Frankincense
• Balsam Fir Needle
• Myrrh

Spice Aromas

• Clove
• Black Pepper
• Nutmeg
• Ginger
• Cardamom

Woodland Aromas

• Cedarwood
• Juniper
• Eucalyptus
• Cypress
• Pine

Floral Aromas

• Roman Chamomile
• Neroli

Exotic Aromas

• Ylang-Ylang
• Sandalwood
• Vetiver

When blending essential oils, keep in mind that not all notes go together, so it's important to experiment and find combinations that complement each other. You can also use a blending wheel of aroma categories to help guide your choices.

In addition, certain essential oils are more commonly associated with masculine scents, such as woody, earthy, spicy, and citrus notes. Here are some examples of essential oils that can be used to create masculine scents:

• Wild Orange (top note)
• Sandalwood (middle note)
• Frankincense (base note)
• Lemon (top note)
• Cardamom (middle note)
• Ylang Ylang (middle note)
• Vetiver (base note)
• Lemongrass (top note)
• Basil (middle note)
• Cedarwood (base note)
• Douglas Fir (base note)
• Bergamot (top note)
• Lemon (top note)
• Clove (middle note)
• White Fir (base note)
• Siberian Fir
• Copaiba
• Lavender

Using alcohol to dilute the essential oils

Diluting essential oils with alcohol is a crucial step in creating a long-lasting and well-dispersed cologne. While it is possible to mix essential oils with alcohol, there are several important considerations to keep in mind. Firstly, essential oils are highly concentrated, so only a small amount is needed. Secondly, due to their volatile nature, they will quickly evaporate when combined with alcohol. Therefore, it is essential to use a carrier oil to prevent premature evaporation and potential skin irritation.

Choosing the Right Alcohol

When selecting alcohol for your cologne, opt for a distilled or purified variety, such as isopropyl alcohol or grain alcohol. These types of alcohol are less likely to alter the scent of your essential oils. Vodka, a neutral spirit, is an excellent choice as it will not modify the fragrance. However, other alcohols like gin or whisky may change the aroma, so experimentation is key to finding the perfect blend.

Dilution Ratios

To ensure proper dilution and avoid skin irritation, it is important to maintain the right ratio of essential oil to alcohol. For every 1 ounce (30 ml) of alcohol, add no more than 30 drops of essential oil. This dilution ensures that the oil is adequately diluted and gentle on the skin.

Step-by-Step Process

• Select a clean glass bottle for mixing and storage.
• Add the desired amount of alcohol to the bottle.
• If using a funnel, insert it into the bottle before adding the essential oils to prevent spills.
• Add 20-30 drops of your chosen essential oils.
• Secure the lid tightly and shake well to combine the ingredients.
• Store your cologne in a cool, dark place, allowing it to mature for approximately 3 weeks.
• After the maturation period, filter the cologne through a coffee filter to remove any sediment.
• Pour the cologne into a glass perfume bottle using a funnel, and it's ready to use!

Additional Tips

• Always use a carrier oil, such as jojoba oil or fractionated coconut oil, to slow down evaporation and reduce the risk of skin irritation.
• Research the essential oils before use, as some may be irritating or toxic if ingested.
• When in doubt, consult a professional or aromatherapist about which essential oils are safe for your intended use.
• Store your cologne in a dark glass bottle with a tight-fitting lid, away from direct sunlight and heat.
• Shake well before each use to ensure the oils and alcohol are evenly distributed.

The role of glycerin

Glycerin, also known as glycerine or glycerol, is a clear, odourless, and viscous liquid derived from animal products, plants, or petroleum. Vegetable glycerin is the variant made from plant oils such as coconut, palm, soy, or corn. It has a sweet taste and is used in food, cosmetics, and pharmaceuticals.

In the context of making cologne balm out of plant matter, glycerin plays a crucial role in several ways:

Moisturization and Skin Benefits:

Glycerin is a natural humectant, which means it attracts and locks in moisture, helping to keep the skin hydrated. This property is especially beneficial for cologne balms as they are applied directly to the skin. By including glycerin in the formulation, you can ensure that your cologne balm provides a moisturising effect, improving skin smoothness and suppleness. Glycerin also has a cooling effect on the skin, which can be soothing for various skin conditions.

Emulsification and Blend:

Glycerin acts as an emulsifier, helping to blend water-based and oil-based ingredients. In a cologne balm, glycerin can assist in combining the plant extracts or essential oils with the wax base, creating a homogeneous and well-blended final product.

Longevity and Adhesion:

As mentioned by Matthew Milèo, a chemist and former in-house nose for Chanel, glycerin can add longevity to your cologne formula. Glycerin helps the fragrance stick to your skin, ensuring that the scent lasts longer. This property is particularly useful for cologne balms, which are designed to be applied directly to the skin and provide a long-lasting fragrance.

Safe and Gentle:

Glycerin is generally considered safe and gentle on the skin. It is hypoallergenic and suitable even for those with sensitive skin. This makes glycerin an ideal ingredient for cologne balms, as it reduces the risk of skin irritation or allergic reactions. Its gentle nature also makes it suitable for use in baby skincare products.

Medicinal Properties:

Glycerin has medicinal benefits, including wound healing, anti-inflammatory effects, and protection against infection. These properties can be advantageous in a cologne balm, especially if you are using plant extracts with therapeutic benefits.

The fragrance scale

• Top Notes: Top notes, also known as head notes, are the first scents you perceive when applying a cologne. They are usually sharp and refreshing, providing an instant impression of the fragrance. Examples of common top notes include citrus fruits like lemon, mandarin, and bergamot, as well as aquatic notes reminiscent of sea spray. Top notes evaporate quickly, making way for the middle notes to shine through.
• Middle Notes: Also referred to as heart notes, middle notes emerge once the top notes dissipate. These notes form the heart of the fragrance and last longer than the top notes. Middle notes are often well-rounded and serve as a bridge between the initial impression of the top notes and the lingering base notes. Floral scents like jasmine, rose, and ylang-ylang are commonly used as middle notes.
• Base Notes: Base notes are the foundation of the fragrance. They are rich, deep scents that emerge after the fragrance has been worn for a while, often during the 'dry down' period. These notes have the longest-lasting power and create the memory of the scent that stays with you. Examples of base notes include sandalwood, tonka bean, vanilla, and cardamom.

Creating a Balanced Fragrance:

When crafting your cologne, it's essential to use the fragrance scale ratios to create a harmonious blend. Here are the typical ratios used for each type of note:

• Base Notes: Typically, base notes comprise the largest proportion of the fragrance, ranging from 20% to 60% of the total composition. This high percentage ensures that the base notes provide a solid foundation and longevity to your cologne.
• Middle Notes: Middle notes usually make up 30% to 50% of the fragrance. This significant percentage allows the middle notes to shine and create a well-rounded scent that isn't overwhelmed by the base or top notes.
• Top Notes: Top notes generally make up about 10% to 30% of the fragrance. While they are the first scents you perceive, a smaller percentage is used because they are meant to introduce the fragrance and then gracefully fade to reveal the other notes.

Experimentation and Personal Preference:

While these ratios provide a solid starting point, creating your own cologne is a creative process that involves experimentation. Feel free to adjust the ratios to find the perfect balance for your unique scent. Play around with different combinations of essential oils and discover which ratios of top, middle, and base notes work best for the type of profile you're aiming to create.

How to blend the essential oils

Blending essential oils is an art form and it can take years to perfect a fragrance. However, you can experiment and be creative, accepting that not everything will be perfect the first time.

Firstly, it's important to understand the fragrance scale. Top notes will be the first thing you smell in your composition. The middle note will appear once the top note dries down, and the base will be the fragrance foundation. Fragrance is all about ratios. The basic pyramid accord is 60% base notes, 30% middle notes, and 10% top notes. However, you can experiment with different ratios to create the profile you're trying to achieve.

The next step is to choose your essential oils. If you lean towards woody, slightly sweet scents, you might choose cedarwood. If you prefer romantic florals, try jasmine, rose, or ylang-ylang. Remember that the final result will likely be more diluted and muted than the first impression of one scent.

Now it's time to start mixing. Remember, not all notes go together, so this is where trial and error come into play. Drop a few oils (one by one) and start mixing. It's recommended to use no more than 30 drops in total, and if one scent is much stronger than the rest, use less.

Base notes such as sandalwood, tonka bean, violet leaf, and vanilla blend well with middle notes like geranium, ylang-ylang, rose, and lotus flower. Top this formula off with lavender, neroli, magnolia, or mandarin.

Once you have your desired formula, add two ounces of alcohol. Allow the fragrance to sit for 48 hours, or even refrigerate for two weeks, then shake it up so that the molecules can mix.

Finally, the fragrance needs to be diluted. In a spray bottle, add two tablespoons of distilled water and five drops of glycerin. Swirl your fragrance mixture in slowly and carefully.

You can also make a roll-on cologne. For this, you will need a 10ml roller bottle, essential oils, and a carrier oil such as fractionated coconut oil, which has no scent. Add the essential oils to the roller bottle and shake well, then fill the rest of the bottle with the carrier oil.

Frequently asked questions