Katrina Rosales
Making your own perfume is a fun and rewarding process that allows you to create a unique and personalized scent. In this guide, we will focus on one particular fragrance: orange, a scent that is known to uplift your mood and brighten your day. By following these simple steps, you will be able to create your own natural, eco-friendly, and intimate perfume with a fresh and vibrant aroma.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Definition | Highly scented organic substances |
| Raw Material | Roots, stems, and flowers of a plant |
| Production Method | Solvent extraction or enfleurage |
| Solvent Extraction Process | Extraction of aromatic oils from plant material with a chemical solvent, followed by distillation or chemical extraction to remove the solvent. The waxy substance left behind is called a concrete, from which aromatic oils are extracted with ethyl alcohol. |
| Enfleurage Process | Layering plant material on lard (animal fat) which absorbs the aromatic oils over time. The plant material is replaced with fresh material repeatedly over weeks or months. The resulting fatty substance (pomade) can be used as a hard perfume or further processed with alcohol to create an absolute. |
| Examples | Jasmine, beeswax, rose, tuberose, ylang-ylang, lavender, oakmoss, etc. |
| Use Cases | Perfumes, aromatherapy, bath oils, vaporizers |
| Mixing | Can be mixed with other absolute oils to create a unique fragrance |
| Dilution | Should be diluted with carrier oils or essential oils before use. |
| Storage | Store in a dark place and shake before use. |
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What You'll Learn
- Solvent extraction: Using organic solvents like hexane and dimethyl ether to dissolve aromatic compounds
- Enfleurage: Using fats to absorb floral scents, an old method no longer used today
- Expression: A mechanical process for extracting oils from citrus fruits
- Distillation: Using steam to extract fragrant compounds from raw plant materials
- Resin extraction: Burning or tapping into tree bark to obtain resins like frankincense
Solvent extraction: Using organic solvents like hexane and dimethyl ether to dissolve aromatic compounds
Absolutes are highly concentrated aromatic oils extracted from plants. Traditionally, the process of absolute extraction was done through enfleurage, where plant material is layered with animal fat, which absorbs the aromatic oils over time. However, today, solvent extraction methods are more commonly used.
Solvent extraction involves using organic solvents such as hexane, benzene, or diethyl ether to dissolve and extract the aromatic compounds from plant materials. Here is a step-by-step guide to the solvent extraction process:
Step 1: Solvent Extraction of Plant Material
The first step is to extract the aromatic compounds from the plant material using a hydrocarbon solvent like hexane or diethyl ether. This process yields a waxy substance called concrete. Hexane is a light and thin solvent with low dissolving power, while diethyl ether is highly volatile, sweet-smelling, and extremely flammable.
Step 2: Ethanol Extraction of Concrete
The concrete is then extracted with ethanol, which is a type of alcohol. This step helps to dissolve and separate the aromatic oils from the concrete. The ethanol extract is cooled to solidify any waxes and then cold-filtered to yield a liquid extract.
Step 3: Evaporation and Absolute Formation
The ethanol is then evaporated, leaving behind the absolute oil. This can be done under low pressure to ensure complete evaporation. The absolute oil carries the aroma of the plant from which it was extracted and is highly concentrated.
Step 4: Optional - Additional Processing
Depending on the desired purity level, the absolute may be further processed to remove any residual solvents or impurities that are still present from the extraction process. This can be done through distillation or chemical extraction methods.
It is important to note that solvent extraction methods can alter the aroma of the raw materials due to heat, chemical solvents, or exposure to oxygen. Additionally, some aromatic compounds may be denatured or rendered odourless during the extraction process.
By following these steps and using organic solvents like hexane and diethyl ether, you can effectively dissolve aromatic compounds and create absolutes for perfume-making.
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Enfleurage: Using fats to absorb floral scents, an old method no longer used today
Enfleurage is a traditional method of making absolutes that is rarely used today due to its time-consuming and laborious nature. This technique involves layering plant material, such as rose petals, on top of a purified fat substance, typically lard (animal fat). Over time, the fat absorbs the aromatic oils from the plant material. This process is repeated over several weeks or months, with fresh plant material being added to replace the dried-out material.
The resulting fatty aromatic substance, known as a pomade, can be used as a solid perfume or further processed to create other products. To make an absolute from the pomade, an alcohol wash is used to separate the floral essence from the fat. The essence co-mingles with the alcohol, and once the alcohol evaporates, the concentrated oil, or absolute, remains.
Enfleurage was invented in the 19th century in Southern France specifically for the fine perfume industry. While it is still used in some parts of France, it has largely been replaced by more efficient modern methods, such as supercritical fluid extraction using liquid carbon dioxide (CO2) or similar compressed gases.
The process of enfleurage is highly respected in natural perfumery, as it yields a highly concentrated aromatic oil that closely resembles the plant from which it came. However, the time and complexity involved in producing absolutes through enfleurage make them generally more costly than synthetic fragrances.
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Expression: A mechanical process for extracting oils from citrus fruits
Absolutes are highly scented organic substances, or highly concentrated aromatic "oils" extracted from plants. They are used in perfumery and aromatherapy and are similar to essential oils. However, while essential oils are produced by distillation, boiling, or pressing, absolutes are produced through solvent extraction or, more traditionally, through enfleurage.
Enfleurage is the process of layering plant material on top of animal fat, which absorbs the aromatic oils over time. This fatty aromatic substance, called a pomade, can be used as a hard perfume or made into other cosmetic products. It can also be alcohol-extracted to create an absolute. This method is very time-consuming and rarely used today.
The more modern method of solvent extraction involves using a chemical solvent such as hexane or benzene to extract aromatic oils from plant material. The solvent is then removed through distillation or chemical extraction, leaving behind a waxy substance called a concrete. The aromatic oils are then extracted from the concrete with ethyl alcohol, and once the alcohol is removed, the remaining substance is an absolute.
Absolutes can be diluted in a carrier oil or essential oil, such as Ylang Ylang, Citrus, or Chamomile, and used in a vaporizer or bath. They can also be mixed with other absolute oils to create a unique perfume fragrance. For example, one can mix 11 tablespoons of virgin almond oil with 2 1/2 tablespoons of Jasmine Absolute Oil, then add a mixture of 3 tablespoons of water and 1 tablespoon of glycerin. This mixture can be poured into a small spray bottle and stored in a dark place for 15 days, shaken daily, to create a perfume.
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Distillation: Using steam to extract fragrant compounds from raw plant materials
Steam distillation is a common method for extracting fragrant compounds from fresh flowers, stems, leaves, roots, barks, and seeds. It involves passing steam through the plant material, which causes the volatile aroma compounds to evaporate. The steam and essential oil vapour are then condensed and collected separately. This method is suitable for flowers like lavender, chamomile, neroli, ylang-ylang, tagetes, geranium, rosemary, and eucalyptus.
Steam distillation is the most widely used method for extracting essential oils from flowers. In this process, steam is passed through the flower material, rupturing the plant structures that hold the essential oils and releasing volatile and non-volatile compounds. The resulting liquid naturally separates into two layers: essential oil and hydrosol. Examples of hydrosols include rosewater and orange flower water.
The temperature and pressure must be carefully controlled to avoid degrading the essential oils during extraction. The process can take anywhere from a few hours to several days, depending on the plant. Steam distillation is generally more suitable for plants that are not heat-sensitive, as the plant material is subjected to high temperatures.
Some flowers, such as jasmine, lilac, elderflower, and rose, are not suitable for steam distillation due to their heat sensitivity. For these flowers, solvent extraction is commonly used, specifically for the production of absolute oils. Solvent extraction involves using a solvent, typically hexane or ethanol, to dissolve the aromatic compounds from the flower material. This method efficiently captures and preserves the delicate and complex fragrance compounds found in flowers.
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Resin extraction: Burning or tapping into tree bark to obtain resins like frankincense
Frankincense is an aromatic resin used in incense and perfumes. It is obtained from trees of the genus Boswellia in the family Burseraceae. The Boswellia tree starts producing resin when it is about eight to ten years old. The tree is tapped two to three times per year, with the final taps producing the best tears of resin due to their higher aromatic terpene, sesquiterpene, and diterpene content. The more opaque resins are generally of better quality.
To extract frankincense from the Boswellia tree, the tree is tapped into and the resin is collected. The resin is then hand-sorted for quality. Frankincense can also be extracted by burning the tree.
To make an absolute into a perfume, you can follow these steps:
- Choose a carrier oil or essential oil such as ylang-ylang, peppermint, petitgrain, citrus, or chamomile.
- Dilute your chosen absolute oil in the carrier oil or essential oil.
- Mix in a few drops of another absolute oil to create your preferred perfume fragrance.
- Pour the mixture into a small spray bottle and seal it tight.
- Store the mixture in a dark place for 15 days, shaking it every day.
It is important to note that absolute oils are extremely strong and should not be used directly.
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Frequently asked questions
Absolute is a type of natural extract from a plant, flower, or wood. It is produced by placing the desired material into a rotating drum and coating it with a solvent, such as benzene or petroleum. The solvent dissolves the plant, leaving a waxy substance containing the oils. This substance is then dissolved in ethyl alcohol, which is burned off, resulting in absolute perfume oil.
Essential oils are the most common type of perfumery oil. They are obtained by distillation, which involves heating the raw plant material and collecting the fragrant compounds through the condensation of the distilled vapour. Absolutes, on the other hand, are produced through solvent extraction, which dissolves the plant material directly.
Common methods for extracting perfume oils include distillation, solvent extraction, expression, sieving, and enfleurage. Distillation involves heating raw plant material and collecting the fragrant compounds through condensation. Solvent extraction uses a solvent, such as hexane or dimethyl ether, to dissolve the aromatic compounds. Expression involves pressing and burying plant material to extract the oil. Sieving and enfleurage are other traditional methods that may be used.
To make perfume, you will need essential oils, absolute oils, or other botanical extracts. These can be purchased or extracted from plants, flowers, or woods. You will also need a carrier, such as alcohol or carrier oil, to dilute the perfume. Popular carrier oils include jojoba oil, almond oil, and grape seed oil. Additionally, you will need a clean glass container with a tight-fitting lid to store your perfume.
To create a unique fragrance using absolutes, you can blend different absolutes and other perfume ingredients in various proportions. You can also experiment with different "notes" of the fragrance, which refer to the different levels of scent that appear over time. Top notes are the first scent you smell, middle notes form the core of the fragrance, and base notes accentuate and fix the middle notes, making the scent last longer.
