Katrina Rosales
There are many ways to learn about perfume, from taking a perfumery course to experimenting with kits at home. Perfume is made up of three components: top notes, middle notes, and base notes. Top notes are the first scents you smell, but they evaporate quickly, while middle notes last longer and come through after the top notes have faded. To train your nose to distinguish these notes, you can start by smelling everyday aromatic things like herbs, teas, and spices. You can also familiarize yourself with classic perfumes, which will help you understand modern perfumes, and read reviews on sites like Fragrantica to learn about different perfume categories. If you're interested in making your own perfume, you can learn about fragrance accords and the blending process, selecting accords that work well together to create your desired scent.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Understanding perfume structure | Top notes (head notes), heart notes (middle notes), and base notes |
| Knowing the classics | Estée Lauder’s Youth Dew, Chanel No. 5 |
| Training your nose | Smelling aromatic things like herbs, teas, spices, fruits |
| Learning your perfume profile | Using Fragrantica to read about the basics of perfumes |
| Applying perfume | Spray on pulse points like wrists, inner forearms, and neck; do not rub into the skin |
| Making your own perfume | Learn the basics of fragrance, understand accords, master the blending process |
| Online courses | Grasse Institute of Perfumery offers online courses for beginners |
| Books | "Essence and Alchemy" by Mandy Aftel |
| Kits | Perfumery kits with essential oils, pipettes, scent strips, and other supplies |
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What You'll Learn
Learn the basics of fragrance
Learning about perfumes can be an exciting journey, especially if you're interested in creating your own signature fragrance. Here are some tips to help you learn the basics of fragrance:
Understand the Basics of Fragrance Notes
Most perfumes have a pyramid structure made up of three types of fragrance notes: top notes (or head notes), heart notes (or middle notes), and base notes. Top notes are the first scents you perceive when applying a fragrance, but they fade quickly. Middle notes emerge after the top notes evaporate and tend to last longer. Base notes provide the foundation for the fragrance and are usually deeper, richer scents that linger. Understanding these different notes will help you identify the unique layers of a perfume and how it evolves over time.
Explore Classic Perfumes
Familiarize yourself with classic perfumes, both modern and vintage. Knowing these benchmarks will give you a reference point for understanding modern fragrances. Smell iconic perfumes like Chanel No. 5 or Estée Lauder’s Youth Dew. While you may not want to wear these classics, experiencing their scents will provide you with a foundation for understanding perfume evolution and the characteristics of different eras.
Train Your Nose
Develop your sense of smell by paying attention to the aromas around you. Smell spices, herbs, teas, coffees, chocolates, and fresh produce. This practice will help you identify different scent profiles and train your nose to distinguish various fragrance notes. You can also explore essential oils and perfumery materials to expand your olfactory repertoire.
Discover Your Perfume Profile
Everyone has a unique perfume profile shaped by their experiences and preferences. Reflect on the fragrances you're drawn to. Are you attracted to powdery, fresh, or oriental scents? Do you prefer fruity-florals, clean-greens, or sweet gourmands? Understanding your perfume profile will guide you in choosing perfumes that align with your tastes.
Understand How Scents Work
Scents interact with our sense of smell in fascinating ways. Heat, for example, plays a crucial role in developing the notes of a fragrance. Apply perfumes to your pulse points, such as your wrists, inner forearms, and neck, as these areas emit heat that helps the fragrance open up and reveal its nuances. Additionally, avoid rubbing perfume into your skin, as this can alter the scent's development.
These foundational steps will help you establish a solid understanding of fragrances and prepare you for further exploration in the captivating world of perfumes.
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Understand the classics
Understanding the classics in the world of perfumes is an important step in learning about perfumes. Classical perfumery often elicits two different reactions: some worship the classics, while others are afraid of them. The classics are important because they serve as a benchmark for modern perfumes, whether niche or mass-market. They are pivotal moments in perfume history, and the scents that have defined and continue to define what modern perfumery can be.
Classics are not just old and revered objects of the past, but they continue to offer a sense of accessible reference to both an established type and an affectingly powerful experience as a stand-alone encounter. The bigger, bolder fragrances of the early to mid-20th century were created in a time when smells, in general, were stronger. They were designed to overpower the smell of cigarette smoke, body odour, heavy pollution, etc. People wore fragrances to be bold and make a statement, unlike today, where people often wear fragrances to smell pleasant and not offend anyone around them.
Some modern classics include Escentric Molecules Molecule 01 by Geza Schoen, which contains a single synthetic ingredient, and Frederic Malle Portrait of a Lady, which amplifies the classic note of Turkish rose and surrounds it with a dark, smouldering blend of berries, patchouli, sandalwood, and frankincense.
Some other classics include Chanel No. 5, Guerlain Mitsouko, and Jean Patou Joy. Victoria of Bois de Jasmin also recommends Estée Lauder’s Youth Dew as a classic to know.
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Train your nose
Training your nose is a key part of learning about perfume. This involves honing your sense of smell and developing a "perfume profile". Start by smelling the aromatic things around you, such as herbs, teas, coffees, chocolates, olive oil, and fruits and spices at the grocery store. You can also open your spice cabinet and smell spices like cinnamon, allspice, or vanilla extract. Crush some peppercorns and smell the bright top notes. This will help you identify the different notes in perfumes and differentiate between perfume categories, from fruity-florals to clean-greens and sweet gourmands.
Another way to train your nose is to familiarize yourself with classic, legendary perfumes. Knowing the basics will enable you to better understand modern perfumes, whether niche or mass-market. For example, you may not want to wear Chanel No. 5, but smelling it will give you a reference point for understanding other perfumes.
As you test out perfume samples, jot down how the scent changes over time on your skin and any impressions that come to mind. Compare your experiences with those of others by reading reviews on platforms like Fragrantica. If there's a note you can't quite identify, look it up, smell it, and see if that's the note that perplexed you. Small exercises like this will help train your nose and enhance your understanding of your perfume profile.
Additionally, pay attention to how you apply perfume, as this can impact your scent experience. Scents love heat, so spray your perfume on your pulse points like your wrists, inner forearms, and neck. Avoid rubbing the perfume into your skin, as this is a common mistake.
If you're interested in creating your own perfume, you can learn about the basics of fragrance, fragrance accords, and the blending process. Experiment with different accords and blend them in small amounts to create unique scent combinations. Keep track of the amounts you use and take notes on how each blend smells so that you can adjust the formula as needed.
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Learn about perfume notes
Learning about perfume notes is an important part of understanding the appeal of a perfume. Perfume notes are the individual components that, when combined, form a unified, pleasing perfume. They are the building blocks of a fragrance and contribute to its overall scent profile.
There are three main categories of perfume notes: top notes, heart or middle notes, and base notes. Top notes are the initial scents that you smell when you first spray or apply perfume. They are the lightest and most volatile notes, and they typically last for about 10 to 20 minutes. Examples of top notes include citrus scents like lemon, orange, and bergamot, as well as light floral scents like lavender and rose. Middle notes are the scents that emerge once the top notes have evaporated. They typically last for about 2 to 3 hours and form the main body of the perfume. Examples of middle notes include floral scents like rose, jasmine, and lavender, as well as spicy scents like cinnamon and nutmeg. The base notes of a perfume are the scents that remain once the middle notes have evaporated. They are the longest-lasting notes, sometimes lasting up to 24 hours or even days on clothing, and they provide depth and warmth to the perfume. Examples of base notes include rich and exotic oriental scents like amber, musk, and vanilla, as well as woody scents like sandalwood, cedarwood, and patchouli.
It's important to note that the same ingredient can be used in different ways and at different percentages to create very different notes. For example, citrus notes can be expressed or cold-expressed to preserve their freshness, while petitgrain is derived from steam distillation, resulting in a very different scent.
When learning about perfume notes, it's helpful to become familiar with the fragrance wheel or pyramid. This visualization tool categorizes perfumes into fragrance families based on their dominant scent notes, helping you understand how different notes work together and find perfumes that match your personal taste.
Finally, it's worth remembering that the enjoyment of a perfume is subjective. While learning about notes can enhance your appreciation, ultimately, what matters is your opinion of a fragrance, how it performs, how it makes you feel, and what it conjures in your mind.
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How to apply perfume
Applying perfume is an art, and there are several ways to do it right. Firstly, it is important to know your pulse points, which are areas where blood flows close to the skin's surface, such as the wrists, inner elbows, collarbone, and behind the knees. These spots emit extra body heat, which helps to diffuse the scent. Spray the perfume about six inches from your skin and dab it on instead of rubbing it in, as rubbing can break down the fragrance molecules.
You can also try the "spritz and step" method: spray the perfume in front of you, then walk into it and back out. This will leave a light layer on your clothes. You can also spritz a bit of perfume into your hair, but be cautious about which formulas you put in your hair. Additionally, you can spritz over a light coat of unscented body lotion or a touch of Vaseline to help the perfume last longer.
It is also important to consider the strength of the fragrance and the occasion when applying perfume. For a powerful EDT or EDP, one spray on the forearm and one on the mid-torso may be enough. For a cozier and more intimate setting, you might opt for 2-3 sprays, one on each side of the neck and one on the chest. If you want a more noticeable scent, spray on highly vascularized areas like behind the earlobes, neck, wrists, etc. However, be careful not to spray directly on your neck as the alcohol can cause wrinkles.
Less is often more when it comes to perfume, and a few spritzes should be enough to leave a lasting impression. Avoid applying perfume to any cuts or abrasions on your skin, as the alcohol can irritate broken skin. Similarly, avoid spraying your perfume near radiators, windowsills, or in the bathroom, as the heat and humidity can accelerate the evaporation of the fragrance. Instead, store your perfume in its original packaging in a cool, dry, and dark place.
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Frequently asked questions
There are many ways to learn about perfume, such as taking a perfumery course, reading books, or experimenting with kits. Courses can teach you the fundamentals of creating and evaluating fragrances, while books can provide an introduction to the history and art of perfumery. Kits allow you to explore different ingredients and create your own unique blends.
Start by familiarising yourself with the basics of perfume structure. Most perfumes have a pyramid structure with three types of notes: top, heart/middle, and base. Top notes are the first scents you smell, but they fade quickly. Middle notes last longer and come through after the top notes have evaporated.
Train your nose by smelling a variety of aromatic things, such as herbs, teas, spices, and fruits. Compare your impressions with others' reviews and familiarise yourself with individual ingredients to improve your ability to identify different notes in a perfume.
