Antonio Mcgowan
Getting into fragrances can be an exciting journey. With the internet and the democratisation of expertise, there are many ways to immerse yourself in the world of fragrances. From joining communities like Perfume Lovers London to experimenting with ingredients, you can start to familiarise yourself with different scents and their notes. Reading blogs, joining Facebook groups, and subscribing to scent-devoted magazines can also help you learn more about fragrances. Additionally, trying out different fragrances and understanding their life cycle, application techniques, and storage methods can enhance your knowledge and appreciation of fragrances.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Communities | The Perfume Society, Perfume Lovers London, Facebook Fragrance Friends |
| Magazines | The Scented Letter, Nez La Revue |
| Blogs | Basenotes, Persolaise |
| Podcasts | Fume Chat |
| Forums | Fragrantica, Basenotes, Parfumo.net |
| Online Courses | Online Creation Course by Experimental Perfume Club |
| In-person Courses | ISPICA School |
| YouTube Reviewers | Multiple |
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What You'll Learn
How to identify different notes
The first step to identifying different notes in a fragrance is to understand what fragrance notes are. Fragrance notes are the individual scent layers of ingredients that make up a perfume and are the building blocks of its overall scent profile. When combined in a specific way, these notes create a unified, pleasing perfume.
A perfume's scent is made up of a combination of several fragrance notes, usually three types: top, heart/middle, and base notes. These notes are arranged in what is called an olfactory or perfume pyramid, with the top notes at the top of the pyramid, the heart notes in the middle, and the base notes at the bottom. The perfume pyramid was established by perfumer Jean Carles as a way of balancing the formula of a perfume, structuring it, and helping it evolve once applied.
Top notes are the first scents you smell immediately after applying a perfume. They are the lightest notes and are responsible for awakening your sense of smell. They are usually fresh, aromatic, green, or citrus notes, and they evaporate first, typically within the first 15-30 minutes after applying the perfume. Middle or heart notes appear once the top notes have disappeared and form the essence or main body of the perfume. Base notes are the scents that last the longest and are the ones you remember the most. They are the foundation of the perfume and increase the duration of the scent, ensuring that it lasts even after a few days.
To identify the different notes in a fragrance, you can smell it at different stages of the dry down, which is the process of the fragrance evaporating and developing on your skin. When you first apply a fragrance, focus on the initial scents and ingredients you smell, which are the top notes. After 15-30 minutes, the middle notes will start to develop, and you will notice a shift in the scent profile. From one hour onwards, the base notes will become more prominent, and the perfume will have settled into its final form.
You can also use the fragrance wheel, created by Michael Edwards in 1983, to identify different notes. The wheel categorizes fragrances into different main olfactive families and then further breaks them down into sub-families for more nuanced identification. Start by identifying the broader family that appeals to you, and then explore its sub-categories to find specific scents that you like.
Some common fragrance note categories and examples of notes within them include:
- Fresh: Citrus, water, and green notes, including lemon, bergamot, mandarin, lavender, rosemary, and basil.
- Floral: Roses, jasmine, lilies, peonies, heliotrope, tuberose, lavender, osmanthus, ylang-ylang, marigold, and magnolia.
- Spice: Clove, cinnamon, and vanilla.
- Fruits: Peach, plum, and nuts like almond.
- Woods: Cedarwood, sandalwood, rosewood, amber, and vetiver.
- Musk: Black musk and cashmere musk.
It is important to note that the same fragrance may smell different to different people, and it may take time and practice to develop your olfactory skills and be able to identify specific notes.
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How to apply perfume
Applying perfume is an art, and there are several ways to do it right. The key is to keep the fragrance pleasant and not overpowering. Here are some tips on how to apply perfume:
Pulse points are the ideal spots to apply perfume. These are areas where your veins sit closest to the skin, and you can feel your pulse—the inside of your wrists, inner elbows, below your belly button, behind your earlobes, the back of your neck, and the back of your knees. These warm spots emit extra body heat, which helps diffuse the scent. Spray or dab the perfume on a few pulse points, and remember not to rub it in as this can break down the fragrance molecules and affect its composition.
You can also try the "spritz and step": spray the perfume in front of you and then walk right into it. This will leave a light layer on your clothes without overdoing it. Applying perfume to your clothing is another way to make your scent last longer, but be careful not to stain your clothes, especially with silks.
It is best to apply perfume after a shower when your skin is dried off but still warm, as the perfume will absorb better into warm skin. Applying a light coat of unscented body lotion or a touch of Vaseline can also help the perfume last longer, as it gives the perfume oils something to grasp onto.
Remember, less is more when it comes to perfume. You don't want to overwhelm yourself or others with a strong scent. One spritz per pulse point is usually enough. Also, be mindful of the concentration of the perfume—you can spritz more of a less concentrated Eau de Toilette than a highly concentrated Extrait de Parfum.
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How to store perfume
Storing your fragrances properly is essential to maintaining their scent, quality, and longevity. Exposure to heat, light, humidity, and fluctuating temperatures can degrade the quality of perfumes over time. Therefore, it is recommended to store perfumes in a cool, dry, and dark place away from direct sunlight, such as a closet, drawer, or cabinet.
Firstly, it is crucial to keep perfume bottles closed when not in use. Once the perfume is exposed to oxygen, it becomes oxidised, causing the smell to dilute and fade over time. Additionally, excessive shaking or movement of the bottle can increase the scent's exposure to air, impacting its quality. Instead of shaking, gently roll the bottle between your palms to mix the ingredients without introducing air bubbles.
Secondly, while it may be tempting to display perfume bottles on a vanity or dresser, it is best to avoid direct sunlight and artificial lighting. The introduction of light can break down the liquid's chemical makeup and even melt plastic bottles. Therefore, storing perfume in its original packaging or box is ideal, as it provides an extra layer of protection from light exposure and temperature changes.
Lastly, moisture and water can damage perfumes by causing chemical reactions that alter the scent. Humidity can also cause the perfume to evaporate, reducing its longevity. Therefore, it is best to avoid storing perfume in rooms with fluctuating moisture levels, such as the kitchen or bathroom. Instead, opt for a room with a dehumidifier or a cool, dry closet or cupboard.
While some sources suggest storing perfume in the fridge to prolong its life, others argue that chilling fragrances may break down scent molecules and cause them to lose their depth. Unless you live in an extremely hot climate, there is usually no need to store perfume in the fridge.
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How to build a collection
Building a fragrance collection is a fun and personal journey. It is important to choose scents that resonate with you and bring you joy. Here are some tips to help you build your collection:
Understand your preferences
Take some time to explore different scent families such as floral, oriental, citrus, woody, or fresh. Try various perfumes and note the ones that appeal to you the most. Do you prefer light and airy scents or rich and bold ones? Understanding your preferences will help you curate a collection that truly reflects your style.
Experiment with different fragrances
Don't be afraid to step out of your comfort zone and try new scents. Be open to discovering unexpected favourites and expanding your olfactory horizons. Experimenting with different fragrances is essential to building a collection that reflects your unique style and enhances your everyday experiences.
Consider the seasons
Fragrances can be influenced by the seasons, as certain scents work better in different weather conditions. In warmer months, opt for fresh, citrusy, or aquatic fragrances, while in colder months, go for warmer, spicier, or more robust scents. By considering the seasons, you can create a well-rounded collection for all year.
Explore a range of brands
There are countless perfume brands available, each with its unique offerings. Don't limit yourself to just one brand. Explore a variety of options to diversify your collection and give yourself a broader range of scents to choose from.
Layering scents
Layering scents is a key part of building your fragrance collection. It allows you to create new fragrances by combining different scents. Consider the fragrance line's composition and whether it is designed for layering. Natural (non-synthetic) ingredients tend to be more conducive to layering, as they are sheer, bright, and transparent.
Start with samples
Don't rush to build your collection. Take your time to explore and experiment. Start with samples or decants and test them multiple times before committing to a full bottle. This way, you can be sure that you truly enjoy the scent and that it works for you.
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Online communities and resources
One example of an online community is the subreddit r/fragrance, which is an inclusive, adult community for discussing finished retail perfumes and other scented personal and home care products. There are also other subreddits dedicated to specific fragrance brands, such as Lush Cosmetics.
Another popular platform for fragrance enthusiasts is Fragrantica, which is a website that runs targeted banner and pop-up ads. Fragrantica is a beloved archive for many fragrance fans, as its lack of sophisticated design and largely user-generated content makes it an attractive alternative to social media feeds dominated by paid posts and sponsorships. Other similar websites include Parfumo and Base Notes.
In addition to these large communities, there are also smaller conversations happening all over the web, such as on perfume Substacks by writers like Christina Loff and Taylyn Washington-Harmon. There are also many online creators, such as Demi Rawling, who have helped turn niche perfume brands into mainstream hits.
If you're looking to buy fragrances online, it's a good idea to do your research first. Many online communities offer advice and recommendations, as well as information on how to use and where to buy fragrances. It's also important to understand fragrance categorisation, as there are 14 different "fragrance families", each with its own unique mood, energy, and feeling.
Lastly, if you're interested in starting your own fragrance business, there are many online resources and communities that can help you get started. You can use platforms like Shopify to create your own online store and sell your fragrances. It's important to have a well-designed and easy-to-navigate product page, as well as to optimise your page for search engines so that potential customers can find your business easily. Social media marketing and email marketing campaigns can also be effective tools for spreading brand awareness and reaching a wider audience.
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Frequently asked questions
It's important to remember that fragrance is subjective. You like what you like, and your tastes may develop and change over time. Try things out on your skin and don't try too many at once. Get a bunch of samples and give them full wears. See which ones you go back to.
Spray your scent on your pulse points like your wrists, inner forearms, the base of your throat, the back of your neck, and your chest. These spots emanate heat, which helps your fragrance release into the air. Don't rub the perfume into your skin!
Department stores and Sephora are great places to start. You can also buy samples at stores, and sometimes you may get a free sample with your purchase. Almost every perfume brand sells some kind of discovery set, which usually consists of 2ml bottles and 5 to 10 different scents.
There are fragrance Facebook groups where anyone can join, such as Redolessence Reviews. Beginners and pros can contribute, and the community is very open and friendly. Fragrantica is another good place to start. You can also follow fragrance influencers on TikTok and Instagram, such as @professorperfume.
Perfumery is where science meets art. Be logical, be intuitive, and follow your nose. The ingredient that smells extremely strong? Use only a trace, or it will likely overpower your blend. You'll need perfume alcohol as a solvent. Pre-dilute your ingredients at 10% to make things easier. Dilution in alcohol is essential as smelling a blend of ingredients pure will feel overwhelming.
