Heidi Norton
The process of creating perfume is a delicate art that involves blending various aromatic chemicals, essential oils, fixatives, and solvents to produce a harmonious scent. One of the key aspects of creating a well-rounded perfume is achieving the perfect dry element, which can be accomplished through careful selection and combination of base notes. Base notes form the foundation of a perfume, providing depth and longevity. They are typically derived from woods, resins, or other ingredients with earthy and musky scents.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Base notes | Amber, oakmoss, sandalwood, rosewood, agarwood, birch, cedar, juniper, pine, benzoin, myrrh, frankincense, labdanum, opopanax |
| Middle notes | Coriander, tagete, armoise, honey, tobacco, wood tars, bergamot, oakmoss, lavender, coumarin, leather, mandarin, jasmine, rose, orange blossoms |
| Top notes | Mint, lavender, citrus, mandarin, bergamot, jasmine, rose, orange blossoms, citrus oils, lemon, orange, lime, tangerine |
| Essential oils | Rose, bergamot, lavender, mint, citrus, mandarin, jasmine, honey, tobacco, wood tars, lemon, orange, lime, tangerine, benzyl alcohol, limonene, ethyl alcohol, kashmirin, acetone, ionones, ethanol, ethyl acetate, benzaldehyde, citronella, cinnamon, vanilla, dry orange rind, pine essence, coumarin, tonka bean, balsams, resins, bergamot |
| Solvents | Alcohol, distilled water, glycerine |
| Fixatives | Coumarin |
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What You'll Learn
- Base notes: Wood oils and resins add depth and dry down to a perfume
- Alcohol: Alcohol is a common solvent used to break down fragrance oils
- Distilled water: Water-based perfumes are natural, soft and long-lasting
- Extraction: Steam distillation, solvent extraction and maceration are common methods
- Top, middle and base notes: Notes are emphasised as perfume dries, revealing layers
Base notes: Wood oils and resins add depth and dry down to a perfume
Wood oils and resins are indispensable in perfumery. They are commonly used as base notes, adding depth and dry down to a perfume. The base notes are the longest-lasting notes in perfumes, lingering for several hours or even days. They form the foundation of the scent, ensuring the perfume evolves beautifully over time.
Base notes are often described as deep, rich, and warm. They enhance a perfume's complexity and improve its wear time. Wood oils and resins add an earthy, musky, or resinous quality to a fragrance. They emerge as the top notes fade, leaving behind a scent that is both grounding and long-lasting.
Common wood oils used in perfumery include cedarwood, sandalwood, rosewood, agarwood, birch, juniper, and pine. Cedarwood, in particular, is one of the most commonly used notes in fragrances. It has a dry, woody, and resinous character with a hint of spice. Its deep qualities lend itself well to being used as a base note, supporting and combining beautifully with fresher notes such as citrus. Its aroma is comforting, warm, and long-lasting, making it well-suited for evening wear and cooler seasons.
Another highly sought-after base note is oud, or agarwood, derived from the resinous heartwood of the aquaria tree. It has a complex, woody, and resinous scent with undertones of smokiness, earthiness, and leather. Other base notes include frankincense, derived from the resin of the Boswellia tree, and murgh, derived from the resin of the Commiphora myrrh tree. These resins add depth and richness to fragrances, with their warm, sweet, and spicy scents.
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Alcohol: Alcohol is a common solvent used to break down fragrance oils
Alcohol is a key ingredient in perfumes, particularly in sprayable perfumes, where it acts as a solvent to break down fragrance oils and create a uniform blend. The most common type of alcohol used in perfumes is ethanol, also known as ethyl alcohol. This type of alcohol is found in alcoholic drinks, biofuel, and perfumes. It is an effective solvent for essential oils and aromatic compounds, allowing the different scent components to seamlessly blend together. The quick evaporation rate of ethanol also helps to disperse the scent into the air, creating a strong initial burst of fragrance.
When making an alcoholic perfume, a fragrance concentrate, typically consisting of aromachemicals and essential oils, is diluted with ethanol. This dilution helps to create a sprayable consistency and enhances the solubility of the fragrance concentrate. The addition of ethanol also aids in the dispersion of the perfume on the skin, maximizing scent diffusion. To apply an alcohol-based perfume, it is recommended to target pulse points such as the wrists, neck, and behind the ears.
Other types of alcohol, such as isopropyl alcohol and benzyl alcohol, may also be used in perfume formulations. These alcohols serve specific purposes, like providing antimicrobial properties or enhancing the solubility of certain ingredients. It is important to note that not all alcohols are suitable for perfume making. Methanol, for example, is highly toxic and should never be used in perfumes. Instead, cosmetic-grade denatured alcohol, specifically Trade Specific Denatured Alcohol (TSDA), is commonly used in perfume manufacturing.
The amount of alcohol in a perfume can vary depending on the type and desired effect. For instance, Eau de Parfum (EDP) typically has a higher concentration of fragrance oils (15-20%) and a lower percentage of alcohol, resulting in a longer-lasting scent. On the other hand, Eau de Toilette (EDT) contains a lower concentration of fragrance oils (5-15%) and a higher percentage of alcohol, producing a lighter and more transient fragrance. The ratio of oil to alcohol influences the projection and longevity of the perfume, with higher oil content resulting in increased longevity but decreased projection.
When creating a perfume at home, one can use store-bought vodka as a source of alcohol. However, it is important to ensure that the vodka is of the highest proof available. Additionally, a small amount of distilled water can be added to the mixture, although it may cause the perfume to become cloudy. After combining the ingredients, it is crucial to let the perfume rest for a week before assessing the blend and making adjustments if needed.
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Distilled water: Water-based perfumes are natural, soft and long-lasting
Water-based perfumes are made by mixing essential oils with distilled water. This creates a natural, soft, and long-lasting fragrance.
Water is a natural solvent that can dissolve many substances, but not all raw materials can be dissolved in water, including fragrance oils. This is where alcohol comes in. Alcohol is a common solvent used to break down fragrance oils, especially denatured alcohol (SD alcohol). It is used to make cheaper, watered-down fragrances such as eau de cologne and eau de toilette. However, water has benefits beyond simply reducing cost.
The addition of water to alcohol in perfume lessens the harsh, drying effect of alcohol on the skin. It also retards the evaporation of alcohol, giving the top notes greater persistence and staying power. This is important because perfumes are generally sold based on the aroma of the top notes.
Furthermore, water can enhance the strength of the nose of a perfume. Water helps release the scent from the oil, while pure alcohol can hold it back. This allows for a balancing act where less fragrance can be used to achieve the desired smell strength when alcohol of lower proof and higher water content is used. This may explain why some people prefer the fragrance of cheaper perfumes to their more expensive counterparts.
When making a water-based perfume, distilled water is often added to the mixture. Distilled water is optional, as it can make the perfume cloudy. However, it can help to simplify the process of figuring out how much of each essential oil to use.
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Extraction: Steam distillation, solvent extraction and maceration are common methods
Extraction methods are essential in perfumery as they help isolate and concentrate the desired fragrant compounds. Steam distillation, solvent extraction, and maceration are common methods used to obtain fragrant compounds and create perfumes with specific aromas.
Steam distillation is a widely used technique in the perfume industry. It involves introducing natural plant or flower elements to steam, which vaporises the fragrant oils. The steam then turns into a haze or mist, which is condensed through cooling equipment and collected. This process results in an essential oil that represents the natural aroma element in a concentrated state. Water distillation is a type of steam distillation where the natural element is draped over water, and the water is heated to produce steam. This steam then carries the aromatic oils to produce the essential oil.
Solvent extraction is another method used to extract fragrant compounds. It involves using a solvent, such as ethanol, to dissolve and separate the fragrant compounds from the raw materials. In the case of ethanol extraction, the impure substances or oils are mixed with ethanol, which has a higher solubility for aromatic constituents compared to other solvents. The ethanol is then evaporated under low pressure, leaving behind a concentrated form of the fragrance, known as an absolute. Solvent extraction can also be used as a second step to further process the absolute and remove any remaining impurities.
Maceration is the process of allowing the essential oils in a perfume to blend with the alcohol and other components properly. Initially, the oils and alcohol may not be thoroughly combined, resulting in an unbalanced scent. Maceration helps the elements blend smoothly and set appropriately over time, creating a more harmonious and well-rounded scent. This process can take anywhere from a few days to several weeks, depending on the fragrance. Proper maceration ensures that the perfume's character, strength, longevity, and overall scent are improved and consistent.
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Top, middle and base notes: Notes are emphasised as perfume dries, revealing layers
The notes in a perfume are like the instruments in a symphony, each playing a unique role in the olfactory experience. Understanding these notes is key to appreciating how scents evolve over time, from the first spritz to the lingering final impression.
Top notes, also called head notes, are the scents perceived immediately upon application. They consist of small, light molecules that evaporate quickly. Examples of top notes include mint, lavender, and citrus.
Middle notes, also referred to as heart notes, emerge once the fleeting top notes dissipate. Lasting approximately 20-60 minutes, these well-rounded and full-bodied aromas define the perfume's character and provide a seamless transition to the base notes. Middle notes are often warm, floral, or herbal, with popular choices including jasmine, rose, cinnamon, and cardamom.
Base notes, also known as bottom notes, are the deep, rich scents that linger long after the top and middle notes have dissipated. They are the true essence of the fragrance, providing depth and lasting power. Commonly used base notes include musk, vanilla, amber, and various woods like sandalwood, cedar, or pine.
The best fragrances are those where the transition between top, middle, and base notes is seamless, creating a complex and captivating journey for the senses. It is the careful layering and blending of these notes that give a perfume its unique expression and character.
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Frequently asked questions
Essential oils such as woody pine essence, dry orange rind, and bergamot can be used to create a dry element in perfume.
Base notes are indispensable in perfumery as they add depth and duration to a dry down. Examples of dry base notes include vanilla-nuanced benzoin, woody myrrh, and rich, earthy opopanax.
Middle or heart notes enhance the fragrance. Examples of dry heart notes include coriander, tagete, and armoise.
Top notes are perceived immediately upon the application of a perfume. Examples of dry top notes include citrus materials such as lemon, orange, bergamot, and tangerine.
