Anisha Riggs
Creating a perfume is an art that involves blending different scent levels, or
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Ingredients | Essential oils, carrier oils, rectified spirit, spring water, distilled water, glycerine, alcohol, food flavours, flower petals |
| Equipment | Bottles, atomizer, funnel, coffee filter, pipette, measuring cup, scale |
| Process | Clean and sterilise bottles, add ingredients in the correct order, shake, leave to mature, dilute, add water |
| Notes | Top, middle, base |
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What You'll Learn
Choosing your ingredients
Perfumes are typically made up of three different scent levels, or "notes", which emerge in the following order:
- Head/top note: The initial scent that you smell immediately after applying perfume. Top notes include scents such as lemon, orange, grapefruit, lime, bergamot, spearmint, and peppermint.
- Heart/middle note: The scent that emerges after the top note, usually within 15–30 minutes. Middle notes include coriander, palmarosa, marjoram, basil, rosemary, rose geranium, and lavender.
- Base note: The base note appears about half an hour after applying the perfume and lingers long after the head and heart notes have faded. Base notes include patchouli, vetiver, frankincense, cedarwood, and sandalwood.
When mixing your perfume, it is recommended to add the base notes first, followed by the middle and then the top notes. It is also important to add the base notes one at a time until you achieve the perfect balance.
You can use essential oils, fragrance oils, infused oils, or even pure flavour extracts such as vanilla extract to create your desired scent. Therapeutic-grade essential oils are advisable to avoid allergies and irritations. Jojoba oil is a popular choice as it has a neutral aroma and is suitable for all skin types, making it a good base or carrier oil.
In addition to oils, you will need perfume alcohol (also known as a solvent) to dilute your perfume. If you do not have an alcohol license, you can use a pre-diluted perfumer's alcohol such as Mistral. For beginners, it is recommended to pre-dilute ingredients at 10% to make the process easier. You can also add distilled or spring water to your perfume, especially if you are making a perfume spray.
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Blending essential oils
To begin blending, you will need a minimum of three essential oils with different notes. The three main categories of essential oils are top notes, middle notes, and base notes. Top notes, like citrus scents, are potent and assertive. Middle notes are the heart of the fragrance and can be light and airy florals. Base notes, such as woodsy scents, have longevity. You can experiment with different combinations of scents, but a good starting point is to mix these three categories. For example, you could blend bergamot, jasmine, and sandalwood.
When blending essential oils, it is important to consider your skin type and the absorption rate of the oils. If you have oily skin, lighter oils like grapeseed oil are recommended. For dry skin, richer oils like jojoba oil are more suitable. To increase the longevity of your perfume, apply it to moisturized skin and target pulse points such as your wrists, behind your ears, and the nape of your neck.
The process of blending essential oils involves adding a certain number of drops of each oil to a glass bottle. The number of drops will depend on the desired intensity of the fragrance. For example, one blend may call for 6 drops of a top note, 10 drops of a middle note, and 4 drops of a base note. After adding the essential oils, you will need to add a carrier oil, such as jojoba oil or fractionated coconut oil, to help dilute the blend and make it safe for the skin. The amount of carrier oil added can range from 7 ml to 80 drops, depending on the desired concentration.
Once you have added all the oils, seal the bottle and shake it gently to mix the oils together. Some blends may require a longer mixing time, such as 48 hours, to allow the oils to meld and develop a richer scent. It is important to store your perfume in a cool, dark place and to protect it from light to preserve the fragrance. You can also add a small amount of glycerine or alcohol to help preserve the fragrance and make it sprayable.
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Notes and their ratios
Notes are the different levels of scent in a perfume. When you spray a fragrance on your skin, you first smell the top notes, followed by the middle notes, and finally the base notes. Top notes usually last for 10 to 15 minutes, while base notes can last for up to 4 to 5 hours.
Top notes are the first impression of a perfume and are usually bright and refreshing. Popular top notes include basil, bergamot, grapefruit, lavender, and rosemary. Middle notes are the core of the fragrance and determine which family the perfume belongs to, such as oriental, woody, fresh, or floral. Base notes accentuate and fix the middle notes, serving as the foundation of the fragrance. Common base notes include cedarwood, cypress, ginger, patchouli, and vanilla.
When blending notes, there is no universal ratio, and the specific ratios may vary depending on the desired outcome and the ingredients used. However, a commonly suggested ratio is 30% top notes, 50% middle notes, and 20% base notes. This ratio can be adjusted to emphasise certain aspects of the fragrance, such as increasing the base notes for a longer-lasting scent or adding more top notes for a stronger initial impression.
Some sources recommend blending notes in a 1:1:1 ratio (top: middle: base), while others suggest ratios like 3:2:1 or 4:2:1 to emphasise the top note. It is important to consider the strength of each scent and adjust the ratios accordingly to avoid overpowering other notes.
The drop-by-drop blending technique is a useful approach to creating balanced perfumes. Start by adding one drop of the base note, followed by one drop of the middle note, and then one drop of the top note. Smell the aroma after each addition and note any changes. Adjust the blend by adding more drops of each oil according to your preference.
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Diluting the fragrance
One method is to use perfume alcohol, also known as a solvent. This can be purchased pre-diluted at 10% concentration, which is more suitable for beginners as it minimises waste. The type of alcohol used will depend on the intended use of the perfume, such as whether it is for a candle or a room freshener. For example, Mistral's perfumer's alcohol is a good option for casual makers who do not hold an alcohol license. Alternatively, vodka can be used, but it is important to avoid rubbing alcohol. The alcohol should be measured accurately, preferably in grams using a small scale, as drops can vary in size and make it difficult to recreate the formula.
Another option for dilution is to use distilled or spring water. Adding approximately two tablespoons of water is recommended for a perfume spray, with the option of including five drops of glycerine to help preserve the fragrance. However, it is important to note that distilled water may make the perfume appear cloudy. If using clear bottles, it is suggested to cover them with aluminium foil or wrapping paper to protect the fragrance from light, which can cause it to spoil.
The amount of dilution will depend on the desired concentration of the perfume. For example, an eau de parfum typically contains 70% alcohol, 20% essential oils, and 10% distilled water. It is important to allow the perfume to mature in a cool, dark place for at least a week before adding the alcohol, as this gives the fragrance time to develop and ensures that you are happy with the blend.
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Storing your perfume
Avoid storing perfumes in the bathroom, as the humidity and temperature variations can accelerate deterioration. The introduction of light can also break down a perfume's chemical structure, altering its scent and causing it to spoil. Similarly, moisture and water can cause damage to perfumes, as they can lead to chemical reactions that alter the fragrance.
To minimize exposure to oxygen, which can cause oxidation and chemical reactions, keep your perfume bottles closed and avoid leaving them uncapped for extended periods. If possible, store perfumes in their original boxes, as they are designed to protect the fragrance from light exposure and temperature changes. Additionally, consider keeping the bottle inside an airtight bag to ensure that no light or oxygen reaches it.
While some people suggest storing perfumes in the fridge, this may not be necessary unless you live in an extremely hot climate. The cold temperature of a fridge can disrupt the delicate chemical balance of perfumes, potentially causing scent molecules to break down and the perfume to lose its depth.
By following these simple guidelines, you can ensure that your favourite fragrances remain fresh and captivating for an extended period.
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Frequently asked questions
Perfumes are a blend of different levels of scent, also called "notes". The top note is the initial scent when you first spray the perfume, followed by the middle note, and then the base note, which is the foundation of the scent.
Top notes include scents like lemon, orange, grapefruit, and lime. Middle notes include coriander, palmarosa, marjoram, basil, and rosemary. Base notes include patchouli, vetiver, frankincense, cedarwood, and sandalwood.
You can make your own perfume using essential oils, carrier oils such as jojoba oil or sweet almond oil, and perfume alcohol. You will also need a small scale to measure your ingredients accurately.
First, decide on the type of scent you want to create, such as floral, woody, or a combination. Mix your chosen scents, starting with the base notes, then the middle notes, and finally the top notes. Once you are happy with the fragrance, dilute it with distilled water and add glycerine to preserve the scent. Pour your perfume into a clean bottle and store it in a cool, dark place.
It can take time to create a perfume, as it often involves trial and error. You may need to tweak your formula multiple times until you are happy with the result. Once you have created your fragrance, it should be left to mature in a cool, dark place for at least a week to allow the individual aromas to blend.
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