Unraveling The Mystery Of Your Signature Scent

Choosing a cologne can be a daunting task, but it doesn't have to be. A general understanding of fragrance-speak is helpful, especially when going in blind. The most important thing to know is the scent pyramid: top, heart, and base notes. Top notes are what you smell immediately and dissipate the fastest; the heart is the core of the scent and what you smell after the cologne has dried down a little; and the base notes are the core smell that stays on your skin the longest.

It's always nice to know what kind of scents you gravitate toward—woods, spices, freshness—to help cut through the options quickly. But even with that knowledge, the most important thing you need to do is put your nose to the bottle. Choose a signature scent that smells like you, in all your multifaceted glory. Remember, colognes aren't just about smelling good; they're also about how they make you feel.

Learn the scent pyramid: top, heart and base notes

The scent pyramid is a three-tiered structure that describes the different notes that make up a fragrance. The structure is determined by the weight of the molecules that make up the notes: lighter molecules evaporate more quickly and form the top part of the pyramid. The top notes are the initial, lighter smell of the fragrance that hits the nose immediately after application to the skin. They will be the first to evaporate and usually last from 15 minutes to 20 minutes or an hour before evaporation starts to make way for the middle or heart notes. Citrus and ginger scents are common top notes, along with light and green notes, aldehydic notes, and fresh, uplifting floral or citrus scents.

The middle notes are slightly denser and heavier molecules that take longer to evaporate and emerge after the top notes. They are the scent of a perfume that emerges just before the top notes dissipate and form the middle or "heart" of a perfume. They make up around 65-70% of the overall fragrance architecture and last between 20 minutes and three hours before the bottom or base notes start to emerge. Middle notes include more full-bodied, floral scents such as jasmine, ylang-ylang, and lavender, along with spicy scents such as cinnamon and pepper, and fruity scents such as apple and strawberry.

The base notes are the most dense notes that evaporate last and form the foundation and base of a fragrance. They are the scents that linger the longest, providing balance and depth to the overall composition. Base notes are usually rich, darker, and warmer, sinking into the skin and providing a long-lasting fragrance. They typically last up to and over six hours on the skin and can even be detectable days later on clothing. Common base notes include vanilla, powdery musk, and woody accents such as sandalwood, cedarwood, and patchouli.

Understand concentration levels

Fragrance concentration is an important consideration when choosing a cologne. Concentration affects the longevity of the scent, its projection, overall scent, and price. The concentration of a fragrance is determined by the percentage of essential oils in the perfume compared to alcohol.

• Eau Fraiche: This is the most diluted version of a fragrance, usually with a perfume oil concentration of 1-3%. It typically lasts for less than an hour and is ideal for warm weather and lighter days.
• Eau de Cologne (EDC): This is the oldest term for perfume, used in North America for masculine scents. It typically has a light, fresh, and fruity composition with a perfume oil concentration of 2-4%. EDC tends to be used in fragrances for younger people and usually lasts for about 2 hours.
• Eau de Toilette (EDT): EDT has a fragrance oil concentration of 5-15% and is one of the most popular fragrance concentrations. It is versatile and suitable for almost every occasion and season. EDT typically comes in larger bottles and is more affordable.
• Eau de Parfum (EDP): EDP has a higher concentration of perfume oils, ranging from 15-25%. It is usually stronger in scent and performance than EDT. EDP fragrances can be ideal for chilly, snowy weather or hot, summer days, making them versatile for all-year-round use.
• Parfum: Parfum fragrances have a higher concentration of perfume oils, ranging from 25-35%. They are typically more expensive and have a very intense scent. Parfum fragrances are ideal for occasions where you want your perfume to stand out and not be drowned out by other scents.
• Extrait de Parfum: This is the most concentrated form of fragrance available, with a perfume oil concentration of 35-45%. Extrait de Parfum fragrances are usually the most expensive and offer the best performance and longevity. They are crafted from natural, rare, and precious ingredients, resulting in a unique and complex scent.

Get familiar with fragrance families

To identify a cologne, it's important to familiarise yourself with the different fragrance families and their unique characteristics. This classification system, used by the perfume industry for years, helps place individual colognes and perfumes into olfactory groups, making it easier to understand and choose scents.

There are four main fragrance families: Floral, Oriental (also known as Amber), Woody, and Fresh. Each family has distinctive characteristics, and individuals often gravitate towards one scent family over another when choosing a personal fragrance.

The Floral family is one of the most common and widely-used families, featuring scents of various flowers, either as soliflores (single flower notes) or bouquets (combinations of multiple flowers). Common notes include rose, jasmine, orange blossom, peony, and gardenia.

The Oriental/Amber family consists of rich, exotic, and sensual scents, including herbs, spices, and dry, powdery resin notes. This family evokes a sense of exotic horizons and rich spices. Common notes include vanilla, myrrh, and anise.

The Woody family includes warm and opulent scents, blending incense-like fragrances such as sandalwood and patchouli with drier notes like cedar. Woody fragrances are often described as calming, captivating, and mysterious, making them a popular choice for men's aftershaves.

The Fresh family encompasses bright, clean, and vibrant scents, including herby, citrusy, and oceanic notes. This family is more commonly associated with men's fragrances, and the aromatic, tangy, and zesty notes create a refreshing and energising experience.

Each of these four main families has its own subfamilies or subcategories, creating a diverse range of scent profiles. Familiarising yourself with these fragrance families will help you navigate the vast world of colognes and perfumes, enabling you to discover your favourite scents and make informed choices when selecting new fragrances.

Understand notes and layers

Understanding the notes and layers of a cologne is key to finding the right scent for you. Notes are the individual scent layers of ingredients that make up a fragrance. They are the building blocks of a fragrance and contribute to its overall scent profile. Notes are typically categorized into three main types: top notes, heart or middle notes, and base notes. Each note plays a specific role in the fragrance's development and longevity.

Top notes are the initial scents you smell when you first spray or apply cologne. They are the lightest and most volatile notes and usually last for about 10 to 15 minutes. Examples of top notes include citrus scents like lemon, orange, and bergamot, as well as light floral scents like lavender and rose.

Middle notes, also known as heart notes, are the scents that emerge once the top notes have evaporated. They typically last for about 2 to 3 hours and form the main body of the cologne. Examples of middle notes include floral scents like rose, jasmine, and lavender, as well as spicy scents like cinnamon and nutmeg.

Base notes are the scents that develop once the middle notes have evaporated. They are the longest-lasting notes and can last for up to 24 hours. Base notes are typically rich and heavy, providing depth and warmth to the cologne. Examples of base notes include woody scents like sandalwood and cedarwood, as well as musk and vanilla.

It's important to note that the classification of notes is not just based on their scent but also on their volatility and longevity. Top notes have a higher volatility and evaporate faster, while base notes are longer-lasting.

When combined, these notes create a unified and pleasing fragrance. The art of perfumery involves carefully selecting and blending these notes to create a unique and appealing cologne.

In addition to the three main categories, there are different types of perfume notes that fall within these categories. Here are some of the most common types:

• Citrus notes: Found in top notes, citrus scents are fresh and uplifting. Examples include lemon, bergamot, and orange.
• Floral notes: Often found in middle notes, floral notes are feminine and romantic. Examples include rose, jasmine, and lily.
• Oriental notes: Rich and exotic, oriental notes are often found in base notes. Examples include amber, musk, and vanilla.
• Woody notes: Warm and earthy, woody notes are commonly found in base notes. Examples include sandalwood, cedarwood, and patchouli.

Understanding the notes and layers of cologne will help you make an informed decision when choosing a fragrance. You can explore different combinations of notes to find the scent that suits your preferences and personality.

Try before you buy

Trying cologne samples is an important step in the process of finding the right cologne for you. Fragrances smell different on everyone, so it's worth testing out different fragrances before committing to a full bottle. Samples are usually small vials of around 1oz of fragrance, which is enough for you to wear the cologne for a day or two and see if you like how it smells on you.

There are several ways to get your hands on cologne samples. One option is to visit the fragrance counter at a high-end department store, such as Saks, Neiman Marcus, Bloomingdale's, Macy's, or Nordstrom. These stores are often generous with their samples, but you may need to chat up the sales assistant and show that you're a serious buyer. You can also visit beauty specialty stores like Sephora, Ulta Beauty, or Blue Mercury, which carry a good selection of men's colognes. The staff at these stores are usually knowledgeable and can help you find what you're looking for. If you're not interested in chatting with a salesperson, you can order samples online from sites like Luckyscent, which offers thousands of samples from niche and designer fragrances for around $4-6 each.

Subscription services like Scentbird and Luxury Scent Box are another great way to try out new colognes. For a monthly fee, these services will send you a large sample of a different cologne each month, allowing you to discover new fragrances without committing to a full bottle. Scentbird, for example, offers a wide range of designer fragrances for $15/month, while Luxury Scent Box features niche fragrances for $15/month.

Once you've acquired some samples, it's important to take your time to test out the colognes and see how they work for you. Don't just go by your first impression—try wearing the cologne a few times in different settings and at different times of the day before making a decision. See how the scent develops over time and pay attention to the base notes, as these will linger the longest. It's also a good idea to pace yourself and your nose by only trying out a few fragrances at a time and taking breaks in between.

By trying before you buy, you can make sure that you find a cologne that you truly love and feel confident wearing.

Frequently asked questions