Discovering Base Scents: Unlocking The Secrets Of Your Cologne

When it comes to choosing a cologne, it's important to understand the different scent families and how they work with your body chemistry. The four main types are warm, woody, oriental and fresh, each created with different combinations of fragrances. Fresh scents, for example, tend to be citrus-based, while warm scents like DKNY's Be Delicious favour more floral and fruity notes. Oriental fragrances are warm, sweet and spicy, and woody fragrances are warm, mysterious and captivating, often featuring notes of cedarwood and sandalwood.

Once you've identified the scent family you prefer, you can explore the different notes within that family. Fragrances are typically made up of top, middle and base notes. The top notes are the initial scent you smell, which lasts from 15 minutes to 2 hours. The middle notes develop after this and can last up to 5 hours, while the base notes are the bolder scents that become more noticeable later in the day and can last up to 10 hours. Typical base notes include sandalwood, moss, vetiver, vanilla, tar, leather, smoke, tobacco and musk.

When choosing a cologne, it's important to try it first and see how it works with your natural body odour over the course of a day.

Understand the different scent families

Understanding the different scent families is a crucial step in finding your favourite fragrance. The four main scent families are woody, floral, amber (previously known as oriental), and fresh. Each family has distinctive characteristics, and individuals often gravitate towards one scent family over another when choosing a personal fragrance.

The floral scent family is one of the most common and is typically associated with women's fragrances, although it is occasionally used in men's fragrances as well. Floral scents evoke the smell of fresh-cut flowers or have a powdery note. They are perfect for spring and summertime and are often described as feminine. Common notes include rose, jasmine, lilies, peonies, and orange blossom.

The amber (oriental) scent family includes herbs, spices, and dry powdery resin notes. These scents can be described as "sensual," warm, and "exotic." Amber scents can be further divided into subfamilies such as soft amber, amber, and woody amber. Vanilla, myrrh, and anise are commonly used notes within this family.

The woody family includes warm and opulent scents, blending incense-like fragrances such as sandalwood, patchouli, and cedar. Woody fragrances are often favoured in aftershaves and are perfect for wearing in the evening. This family can be divided into mossy woods, with an earthy and sweet undertone, and dry woods, which have a smoky and leathery aroma.

The fresh family is characterised by zingy and aromatic compositions, often backed with underlying woody notes. This family includes herby, citrusy, and oceanic scents, which are more commonly used in men's fragrances. Aromatic, citrus, green, and water are subfamilies within the fresh family. Common notes include citrus fruits, white flowers, and bergamot.

Once you understand the different scent families and their subfamilies, you can explore and experiment to find the fragrances that resonate with you.

Learn about the fragrance wheel

The fragrance wheel, also known as the aroma wheel, fragrance circle, perfume wheel, or smell wheel, is a circular diagram that explains the relationships between different olfactory categories. It is reminiscent of the colour wheel that many will be familiar with from art classes, which places colours in accordance with their relationship to one another.

The fragrance wheel was first conceived by Austrian perfumer Paul Jellinek in 1949, who named it the 'Odor Effects Diagram'. It was published in the original German edition of his book, 'The Practice of Modern Perfumery'. The version of the wheel that is in use today is the 1992 brainchild of expert perfumer and taxonomist, Michael Edwards.

The wheel is split into four sections: Floral, Amber (previously referred to as Oriental), Woody, and Fresh. Each family contains aromas that are similar, share characteristics, or have complementary aspects. Under each family are sub-groups, which describe a particular scent in detail.

Scent families that are next to each other on the wheel are known as 'kindred' and these notes blend together harmoniously. For example, Amber and Woody notes are frequently found together. Scent families that are across from each other on the wheel are known as 'complementary'. These notes have a distinctly different character and create complex, intriguing blends.

The fragrance wheel is a great tool for understanding the relationships between fragrances and individual fragrance notes. It can be used to train your sense of smell, develop marketing ideas, and create fragrance blends.

Know the difference between top, middle and base notes

The language of "top-mid-base notes" is often presented as a pyramid, with the notes displayed in order of appearance. However, it is a little misleading as the notes are all present together when you spray the fragrance, and they all evaporate at their own pace. Each molecule has its own evaporation curve, with some lasting only a few minutes and others remaining for weeks.

Top notes are the initial, lighter smell of the fragrance that hits the nose immediately after application. They tend to be fresh and sharp, with a lighter molecular structure that won't linger for long on the skin. Typical top notes include citrus, fruity, and floral scents, as well as spices such as cinnamon. They last from 15 minutes to 2 hours.

Middle notes, also called heart notes, develop after the top notes clear and can last 3-5 hours after being sprayed. They build on the top notes and showcase the main element of the fragrance. Middle notes are well-rounded and pleasant, with a fuller body, and include heavier floral scents like jasmine, as well as green scents like grass or stone, and spices like cinnamon and clove.

Base notes are the last to develop and are often the bolder notes in the fragrance, becoming more noticeable later in the day. They lay the foundation for the scent and determine how long it lasts on the skin, typically 5 to 10 hours. Typical base notes include sandalwood, moss, vetiver, vanilla, tar, leather, smoke, tobacco, and musk.

Understand the difference between fragrance types

Fragrances are complex mixtures of raw materials, which can be extracts from natural sources or synthetic. Perfumed oils are dissolved in a solvent, usually alcohol, to preserve a pleasant concoction of scents. The higher the concentration of oils, the stronger the fragrance and the longer it will last on your skin.

The different types of fragrances are defined by their concentration of fragrance oils. From highest to lowest concentration, the types are:

• Parfum: Contains 20-30% fragrance, though concentrations can be as high as 40%. Lasts up to 24 hours and is suitable for people with sensitive skin.
• Eau de Parfum (EDP): Contains 15-20% fragrance. Lasts around 4-8 hours and is suitable for everyday wear.
• Eau de Toilette (EDT): Contains 5-15% fragrance. Lasts 2-3 hours and is considered daywear.
• Eau de Cologne (EDC): Contains 2-4% fragrance. Lasts up to 2 hours and is considered a masculine formula.
• Eau Fraiche: Contains 1-3% fragrance. Lasts up to 1 hour and is used to freshen up.

The main difference between these categories lies in the concentration of essential oils in the fragrance base. The base can be water, alcohol, or oil-based. Parfums, for example, are oilier and heavier than other fragrance types, while Eau Fraiche is mostly water-based.

It's worth noting that the term fragrance is a generic, unisex term used for perfume. Cologne (Eau de Cologne) is the oldest term for perfume and is used in North America for masculine scents. Toilette (Eau de Toilette) is a light spray composition, while perfume (Eau de Parfum) is historically genderless and used to describe both men's and women's products.

Learn how to test colognes

Testing colognes is an important step in finding the right fragrance for you. Here are some tips to help you navigate the process:

• Take your time: There are many colognes on the market, so don't rush into choosing one. Take your time to explore and test different options before settling on your signature scent.
• Fall in love with the fragrance: Ultimately, you should love the fragrance you choose. Don't be afraid to trust your instincts and go with what feels right for you, even if it's different from what others suggest.
• Understand the notes: Get to know the core notes in fragrances, such as top, middle, and base notes. This will help you identify the scents you prefer and how they work with your body chemistry.
• Fragrance families: Familiarize yourself with the different fragrance families, such as warm, woody, oriental, and fresh. This will help you narrow down your choices and find scents that align with your preferences.
• Seasonality: Consider the time of year when choosing a cologne. Fragrances with notes of tobacco, leather, or spice are ideal for winter, while green and aquatic notes are perfect for summer. For fall, look for patchouli, musk, and vanilla, and opt for floral or citrus scents in spring.
• Sample and test: Take advantage of sample-size testers or subscription services to try out different colognes. Spray the cologne on your skin, as it will smell different on you than on a card or fabric. Give it time to dry and evolve on your skin before making a decision.
• Trust your senses: While it's great to seek advice and recommendations, remember that fragrance selection is a personal choice. You are the best judge of what suits you. Don't be afraid to try something new and explore scents that resonate with you.
• Consider your motives: Think about why you want a signature scent and how it will reflect your personality and style. Choose a fragrance that suits your unique motives and the impression you want to make on others.
• Ask for advice: If you're unsure, don't hesitate to ask salespeople or fragrance experts for guidance. They can provide valuable insights and suggestions based on your preferences.
• Compare prices: Fragrances can vary in price, with niche fragrances typically costing more than mass-market options. Consider your budget and whether you're willing to invest in higher-quality ingredients.

Frequently asked questions