Anisha Riggs
Extracting perfume from flowers is a therapeutic process that allows you to capture the fragrance of your favourite flowers and keep it in your pocket. There are several methods to extract perfume from flowers, including steam distillation, solvent extraction, enfleurage, supercritical fluid extraction, and maceration. The choice of method depends on the type of flower and the specific fragrance compounds you want to extract. For example, steam distillation is suitable for flowers like lavender, chamomile, and geranium, while solvent extraction is ideal for delicate flowers with low oil content, such as jasmine and rose. Enfleurage is an old and labour-intensive method that involves using odourless fat or oil to absorb the aroma compounds from flowers. Maceration is a simple method of soaking flowers in a carrier oil, but it can take a long time for the oil to become saturated with the aroma compounds.
Characteristics and Values Table for Extracting Perfume from Flowers
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Methods | Enfleurage, Steam Distillation, Solvent Extraction, Maceration, Supercritical Fluid Extraction |
| Materials | Fat/oil (lard, vegetable oil, olive oil, corn oil, sesame oil), flowers, petals, alcohol, jars, strainer, spoon, pestle and mortar |
| Time | 1-2 weeks (Enfleurage), 1-3 days (Alcohol Extraction), a few hours (Steam Distillation), several weeks/months (Maceration) |
| Pros | Natural, custom scents, eco-friendly, therapeutic, versatile, selective extraction, consistency, purity |
| Cons | Time-intensive, short shelf life, potential presence of residual solvents, expensive, labour-intensive |
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Steam distillation
To perform steam distillation, the raw plant material is placed in an alembic (distillation apparatus) over water. Boiling steam is then injected into the alembic, heating the plant material and vaporizing its aroma components. The vapour containing the aroma compounds flows out of the alembic and into a cooling pipe. The best temperature for the water flowing into the cooling pipe is 4 to 10 degrees Celsius. The vapour condenses into a liquid, which is a mixture of water and fragrant oils. The fragrant oils can then be easily separated from the water as they float to the top.
The amount of aromatic compounds in plants is limited, so the speed and duration of the steam flow must be carefully controlled. Too much steam can change the aromatic compounds or dilute the concentration of flower water. If the cooling pipe is not cool enough, the steam will be discharged without liquefying. Steam distillation is not suitable for all plants. For example, it cannot be used for citrus plants like lemons and bergamot because the heat-sensitive main aroma components are changed and decomposed. It is also not suitable for flowers like jasmine and tuberose, which require volatile solvent extraction to extract their scent.
Ylang-ylang is an example of a flower that can be steam distilled. The lowest temperature for ylang-ylang steam distillation is 212 degrees Fahrenheit, but this yields only a small amount of essential oil. This grade is considered the best and most expensive and is referred to as "extra". The same plant matter can be distilled a second time at a higher temperature to produce a larger quantity of essential oil, known as "ylang-ylang I". The process can be continued at higher temperatures to yield greater quantities of ylang-ylang in grades II and III, which are considered inferior and less expensive. When the distillation is run as an uninterrupted process for a total of 22 hours, the resulting product contains all grade levels of the oil and is called "complete".
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Solvent extraction
Firstly, the choice of solvent is crucial. Commonly used solvents include hexane, ethanol, and diethyl ether. These solvents effectively dissolve the aromatic compounds, including lipids and waxes, from the flower material. The solvent selection can also be adjusted to selectively extract specific aromatic compounds, creating unique scent profiles or therapeutic properties in the final product.
Next, the flower petals or delicate plant material are exposed to the chosen solvent. This step may vary in duration depending on the flower and solvent used. In some cases, the solvent may need to be left on the petals for several hours or even days to ensure proper absorption of the aromatic compounds.
Once the solvent has dissolved the fragrant compounds, it needs to be separated from the flower material. This step may involve various techniques, such as filtration or distillation, to ensure the solvent and extract are effectively separated, leaving behind the concentrated fragrance oil.
After separation, the solvent can often be reclaimed and recycled for reuse. This step is important, especially considering the potential presence of residual solvents in the final product, which is a significant concern in solvent extraction.
Finally, the extracted fragrance oil may undergo further processing to remove any impurities and ensure the desired scent profile. This step may involve distillation or the use of additional solvents, such as ethyl alcohol, to create a more refined and pure absolute or pomade.
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Enfleurage
There are two types of enfleurage: hot and cold. Hot enfleurage, also called maceration, involves installing plants that can withstand heat, such as mimosa, in oil or fat. The mixture is then heated to between 40° and 60° in a bain-marie for about two hours, during which the macerate is regularly mixed. In some cases, the sun was used to heat the oil and flowers. Cold enfleurage, on the other hand, is done at room temperature and was commonly used for flowers that should not be exposed to high temperatures to avoid altering their fragrance.
Today, enfleurage is primarily used by artisans who appreciate the beautiful results and the embodiment of handcrafted natural perfumery that it offers. While it may not be suitable for classic perfumery, enfleurage still holds value for those seeking unique and artistic fragrances.
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Maceration
To begin the maceration process, one must first cram as many flowers into a jar as possible. Then, add a known volume of oil to the petals—a minimum of 50 mL is recommended. Some oils that can be used include extra virgin olive oil, corn oil, sesame oil, or coconut oil. The oil is then mixed with the flower material to ensure that all the petals are covered. The mixture is then sealed and left somewhere dark for 24 hours.
After 24 hours, the scents from the flowers should have been fully absorbed by the oil. The flower petals can then be drained using a strainer, and the oil can be collected in another container. A spoon can be used to press down on the petals against the strainer to collect as much of the scented oil as possible.
The macerated mixture then undergoes filtration and processing. The mixture is carefully filtered to remove the flower material, and the resulting oil is used as a fragrance or incorporated into cosmetic products, perfumes, and skincare items. Alcohol-based maceration may change the fragrance profile compared to oil-based maceration.
Hot enfleurage, also known as maceration, involves infusing flowers and other fragrant raw materials that are fairly heat resistant in a fatty substance preheated to between 40 and 60 degrees Celsius. The flowers in this mixture are then stirred frequently for about 2 hours until the fat is completely saturated with aroma. The resulting mixture is called a pomade.
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Alcohol infusion
Once the flowers are semi-dried, place them in a glass container and cover them with the chosen alcohol. High-proof alcohol, such as vodka or grain alcohol, is typically used as the solvent to extract the aromatic compounds from the flowers. The container is then sealed to prevent exposure to air and light and stored in a cool, dark place for an extended period, typically several weeks to several months. This process is known as maceration.
After the desired aroma intensity and extraction of valuable constituents are achieved, the macerated mixture is carefully filtered to remove the flower material. This can be done using a coffee press or a wire strainer. The press is more effective as it extracts more of the oil from the flowers. At this stage, you will have created a tinctured scented alcohol.
To make the fragrance last longer, use high-proof alcohol and fixatives like orris root or glycerin. Blending complementary base notes like sandalwood or patchouli can also help to stabilize the overall scent. If your perfume is too potent, you can dilute it with more alcohol or distilled water.
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