Katrina Rosales
Dating old perfume bottles can be a tricky task, but there are some tell-tale signs to look out for that can help pinpoint their age. From the 17th to the 19th centuries, perfume bottles often had brass caps with engraved designs and were frequently produced in Bohemia, the home of the Moser firm. In the 20th century, there are several indicators of a perfume bottle's age: the type of cap can be a clue, with Bakelite screw caps used from the 1930s to the 1950s, and Lucite caps introduced in the late 1930s. The style of signature on Lalique bottles can also help date them, with older bottles marked R. Lalique in block lettering, and newer bottles signed Rene Lalique until 1945, after which the signature changed to Lalique France. Bottles with the label Made in Occupied Japan were made between September 1945 and April 1952, while sample bottles from the 1950s often included the label sample, not to be sold.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Embossing | "Made in Occupied Japan" (September 1945-April 1952) |
| Labels | "Sample, not to be sold" (1950s onwards), "dummy, not for sale" (factice/display bottles), "returning this bottle to the perfumer is a national duty" (1940-1945) |
| Lettering | Enameled lettering (after 1930s, common in 1940s onwards) |
| Patent numbers | Frequent in 1930s and 1940s |
| Screw caps | Bakelite (1930s-1950s), Lucite (late 1930s onwards), Goldtone plastic (after 1940s), Goldtone metal (from 1920s) |
| Signatures | R. Lalique (until 1945), Lalique France (after 1945) |
| Stamps | Baccarat (from 1936), Lalique, Cristal Nancy (until 1934), Cristal Romesnil |
| Mounting | Makers' marks, country of origin marks, quality marks |
| Bottle design | Coloured thin glass, heavy gilded decoration, metal mount, hinged cap (possibly brass, finger chatelaine (attached chain) |
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What You'll Learn
- Look for distinctive markings on the glass, like acid stamps or signatures
- Check the style of the bottle cap—Bakelite, Lucite, plastic, or metal
- Inspect the bottle for enamel lettering or serigraphy
- Examine the base for patent numbers or English Registry Design numbers
- Observe the overall design and details, like chains or engraved caps
Look for distinctive markings on the glass, like acid stamps or signatures
When trying to date old perfume bottles, it is important to look for distinctive markings on the glass, such as acid stamps or signatures. These markings can provide valuable information about the age and origin of the bottle. Here are some tips to help you identify and interpret these markings:
Firstly, check the base of the bottle for acid stamps or signatures. Acid etching was commonly used by perfume companies to mark their bottles, especially in the early 20th century. Look for faint markings or etched signatures that may have become hard to read over time. For example, older Lalique perfume bottles were marked with "R. Lalique" in block lettering, while bottles produced after 1945, following the death of Rene Lalique, were signed "Lalique France".
In addition to signatures, some perfume companies used acid stamps to indicate their brand. For instance, Baccarat bottles from 1936 onwards were systematically engraved with a mark, while older Baccarat bottles may have acid stamps or paper labels. Cristal Romesnil and Baccarat were known to use acid etching to mark their bottles with the signature "Guerlain" and/or "Made in France".
Pay close attention to the style and placement of the markings. Some companies changed their signatures over time, so identifying the specific signature style can help you narrow down the date range of your perfume bottle. For instance, the signature on Lalique perfume bottles has evolved over the years, and you can date a bottle by the style of the signature. Additionally, some bottles may have markings on the bottom of the stopper plug or etched numbers on the base that match the stopper, indicating a precise, airtight fit.
Keep in mind that not all perfume bottles will have distinctive markings. Some older bottles, especially those from the early 20th century, may have no distinguishing marks at all. In such cases, other factors such as the shape, colour, and style of the bottle can provide additional clues about its age and origin.
Lastly, consider consulting expert resources or reference materials. There are various websites and books dedicated to helping identify and date perfume bottles. By cross-referencing the markings, signatures, and other distinctive features of your bottle with these resources, you can gain a better understanding of its age and historical context.
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Check the style of the bottle cap—Bakelite, Lucite, plastic, or metal
The style of the bottle cap is an important clue in dating old perfume bottles. The material and design of the cap can indicate the age of the bottle, as certain types of caps were used during specific time periods. Here is an overview of the different types of bottle caps and the historical context of their usage:
Bakelite
Bakelite screw caps were commonly used on perfume bottles from the 1930s to the 1950s. Some perfume brands, such as Lanvin, continued using black Bakelite screw caps even into the 1960s. Bakelite is a hard, brittle material that was one of the earliest forms of plastic made from synthetic components. To identify a Bakelite cap, you can try rubbing it briskly with your finger or holding it under hot running water for 20-30 seconds. If it emits a formaldehyde odor, it is likely made of Bakelite.
Lucite
Lucite caps were introduced in the late 1930s and remained in use thereafter. Older Lucite caps may exhibit signs of discoloration or small fractures due to the effects of the perfume over time. They were often used in conjunction with a ground glass stopper.
Plastic
Plastic caps began to be used widely by the 1970s, with the introduction of plastic-covered dowel stoppers by the glass factory of Saint Gobain Desjonqueres. Goldtone plastic screw caps became popular after the 1940s. Plastic caps are lightweight and can be easily dyed into attractive colors. However, they are not biodegradable or environmentally friendly.
Metal
Metal screw caps, particularly in goldtone, were commonly used from the 1920s onwards. Metal caps provide durability and can enhance the overall look of the perfume bottle, especially for luxury brands. Zamac, an alloy of aluminum, zinc, magnesium, and copper, is a unique metal option for caps due to its ease of modification and resilience.
The evolution of perfume bottle caps reflects the changing preferences and technologies in the fragrance industry. Each type of cap material and design serves a functional and aesthetic purpose, contributing to the preservation and presentation of the perfume within.
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Inspect the bottle for enamel lettering or serigraphy
Inspecting a perfume bottle for enamel lettering or serigraphy is an important step in dating old perfume bottles. Enamel lettering, also known as serigraphy, started to be used on glass bottles after the 1930s and became a common feature in the 1940s and beyond. This lettering is created by applying ground glass and flux paste to the glass bottle, which is then fired at high temperatures in a kiln, resulting in the enamel paste melting and fusing permanently with the bottle.
When inspecting the bottle for enamel lettering, look for raised or embossed lettering that appears to be part of the glass bottle itself rather than painted or printed on the surface. The lettering may have a glossy or shiny appearance and should not be easily scraped off. If the bottle has labels, carefully remove them to check for any hidden enamel lettering underneath.
Additionally, pay attention to the colour and style of the lettering. Enamel lettering is often white or coloured glass, and the font style may provide clues to the era of production. For example, Art Nouveau-style lettering typically indicates a bottle from the early 1900s to the 1920s, while Art Deco lettering suggests the mid-1920s to the early 1940s.
While inspecting the bottle, take note of any other distinctive features that could aid in dating the bottle, such as the shape of the bottle, the type of cap or stopper, and the presence of any additional markings or labels. These factors, combined with the information gleaned from the enamel lettering, can help narrow down the age of the perfume bottle.
It is important to handle the bottle with care during inspection, as enamel lettering can be fragile and prone to loss during cleaning or handling. Additionally, some older bottles may have value to collectors, so preserving the original condition is important.
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Examine the base for patent numbers or English Registry Design numbers
When it comes to dating old perfume bottles, examining the base for patent numbers or English Registry Design numbers is a crucial step. These markings can provide valuable insights into the age and origin of the bottle.
Patent numbers on the base of perfume bottles were frequently found on American-made bottles from the 1930s to the 1940s. These patent dates can be researched by looking up the number on US patent webpages or search engines online. If the patent number is prefixed with the letter "D", it indicates a design patent. By simply entering the patent number, you can uncover information about the bottle's design, its original creator or manufacturer, and potentially a precise date or date range for its production.
In the case of English Registry Design numbers, these markings are typically found on perfume bottles originating from the United Kingdom. Similar to patent numbers, these can be searched online to potentially reveal information about the bottle's design, manufacturer, and production date. English Registry numbers are often prefixed with "Rd....." or "Rgd.....".
In addition to patent and English Registry numbers, other markings on the base of the bottle can be indicative of its age and origin. For instance, if you find an "S" or "SGD" marking, it indicates that the bottle was manufactured by the Saint Gobain Desjonqueres glass factory in France after the 1950s. A VB or BR mark suggests that the bottle was crafted by Verreries Brosse of France after the 1920s.
Furthermore, signatures or markings from renowned glassmakers such as Lalique, Baccarat, Cristal Nancy, or Cristal Romesnil can be indicative of the bottle's age and value. Older Lalique bottles, for instance, may be marked with "R. Lalique" in block lettering, while bottles produced after 1945, following the death of Rene Lalique, are typically marked with "Lalique France". Baccarat bottles, on the other hand, were systematically engraved with an acid stamp starting in 1936.
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Observe the overall design and details, like chains or engraved caps
When it comes to dating old perfume bottles, it's important to pay close attention to the overall design and intricate details. One key aspect to look out for is the presence of chains or engraved caps, which can offer valuable insights into the bottle's age and provenance.
Engravings and etchings on perfume bottle caps or stoppers can provide important clues about the bottle's age. For instance, Lalique perfumes often featured signatures on the bases, and you can date these bottles by identifying the style of the signature. Older Lalique bottles may be marked with "R. Lalique" in block lettering, while bottles produced after the death of Rene Lalique in 1945 will simply be marked "Lalique France". Additionally, if you come across a bottle with an embossed entwined "HP" mark on the base, it was likely made by the glass factory of Pochet et du Courval in France after 1930.
The type of cap or stopper can also be indicative of the bottle's age. Bakelite screw caps, for example, were commonly used from the 1930s to the 1950s, and sometimes even into the 1960s. Lucite caps were introduced in the late 1930s and tend to become yellowed or discoloured over time due to the perfume. Goldtone plastic screw caps became popular after the 1940s, while goldtone metal screw caps were in use from the 1920s onwards. Glass stoppers with dowels that fit into corks were prevalent from the 1870s to the 1920s.
Beyond the caps and stoppers, the overall design and shape of the bottle can also provide dating clues. Art Nouveau styles, for instance, generally indicate bottles from the early 1900s to the 1920s, while Art Deco designs point to the mid-1920s to the 1940s. Psychedelic designs, on the other hand, were popular in the late 1960s to early 1970s. Additionally, keep an eye out for chains attached to the bottle, as these can be indicative of certain styles or eras.
Lastly, don't forget to examine the labels and markings on the bottle. Clear labels indicating contents, such as "SDA" (Specially Denatured Alcohol), were first used around the 1940s to 1950s. The presence of a zip code on the label denotes a bottle from 1962 or later. Enameled lettering or serigraphy on glass bottles became common after the 1930s and was frequently seen in the 1940s. These letters are fragile and can be easily lost during cleaning, so take care when handling.
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Frequently asked questions
Knowing when a perfume was first launched can be a huge help. Some perfumes were made for many years after their launch dates, while others were only sold for a short time. Bottles with labels marked "Made in Occupied Japan" were made from September 1945 until April 1952. Sample bottles from the 1950s onwards often had labels that said "sample, not to be sold", while today's bottles say "tester".
Enameled lettering, also known as serigraphy, on glass bottles started being used after the 1930s and was a regular feature in the 1940s. This lettering is quite fragile and can be easily lost with cleaning. Look for a patent number on the base of the bottle—these were frequent in the 1930s and 1940s. Bakelite screw caps were used from the 1930s to the 1950s, while Lucite caps were introduced in the late 1930s.
Look on the base of the bottle for acid stamps for Baccarat, Lalique, Cristal Nancy or Cristal Romesnil. Lalique perfumes were marked with a signature on the bases, and you can date a bottle by the style of the signature. Older bottles are marked R. Lalique in block lettering, while bottles made after 1945 are marked Lalique France. If your bottle has an embossed entwined HP mark on the base, it was made by the glass factory of Pochet et du Courval in France after 1930.
