Antonio Mcgowan
Dating a Guerlain perfume bottle can be a difficult task, as the company has used various codes, boxes, labels, and symbols over its 200-year history. However, there are some ways to estimate the age of a bottle. One method is to examine the stickers on the bottom of the bottle and box. For example, blue and red stickers with a Roman numeral and a letter indicate that the bottle was produced between 1924 and 1949, with the letter corresponding to the year. Another way to date a bottle is to look at its shape and design. For instance, the Flacon Bouchon Coeur (Heart-Shaped Stopper) was originally created in 1912, while the Flacon Chauve Souris (The Bat) dates back to the 1920s. Additionally, the box design can provide clues about the era in which the perfume was sold, such as the blue box from the 1950s or the black-and-white zigzag box from 1967 onwards.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Bottle design | Flacon Chauve Souris (The Bat), Flacon Bouchon Coeur (Heart-Shaped Stopper), Flacon Bouchon Fleurs (Floral Stopper), Flacon Quadrilobe |
| Manufacturer | Baccarat, Pochet et du Courval, Saint Gobain des Jonqueres, Cristal Romesnil, Verreries Brosse, Cristalleries de Nancy, BSN-GD Flaconnage |
| Year of production | 1920s, 1950s, 1960s, 1970s |
| Batch code | JH 2BA 2, PH 300, ZB0R8, 3J01, A23 89, VB 7PA 5, 3Y01, 51, 4C, 3346470615441, 1E01, 0Y01 |
| Stickers | Blue and red stickers with Roman numerals and letters indicating month and year |
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What You'll Learn
Check the batch code
To date a Guerlain perfume bottle, checking the batch code is a crucial step. Guerlain has used various "letters and numbers", different boxes, and complicated batch codes that indicate both "years" and "months". Therefore, it is essential to consider the boxes, labels, symbols, and perfume "launch dates" together to accurately interpret the batch code.
The batch code can typically be found on the bottom of the perfume bottle or the sticker attached to it. These batch codes can be in different formats, such as a combination of letters and numbers or just numbers. For example, a batch code like "VK 2MB" has a letter followed by a number, while some codes like "3Y01" are purely numeric.
Interpreting the batch code can be challenging due to the variations in coding formats and the lack of official information. However, some online communities and blogs offer insights based on their research and experiences. For instance, one source suggests that the letter in the batch code represents the month, with "K" standing for June. Additionally, some collectors and enthusiasts share their interpretations, such as identifying the year based on the first character and the month based on the second character in the batch code.
It is important to note that vintage Guerlain perfumes may not have batch codes at all, and determining their production dates can be more complex. Online tools, such as batch code calculators, can be used to decipher the production date and shelf life of a perfume by entering its batch code. However, these tools may not provide absolute certainty, and mistakes are possible.
To accurately date a Guerlain perfume bottle, it is recommended to consider multiple factors in addition to the batch code, such as the box design, label, and launch date. Comparing the characteristics of your bottle with those of verified bottles from known periods can also aid in narrowing down the production date.
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Look for stickers
When dating Guerlain perfume bottles, one of the key things to look for is stickers. Stickers on perfume bottles were introduced in the 1940s, replacing the practice of stamping the name and origin of the perfume on the glass. However, stickers from this era were often lost or destroyed, making it challenging to authenticate the perfume. Therefore, if your Guerlain bottle has a sticker, it was likely produced after the 1940s.
It's important to examine the sticker closely, as the information on it can provide valuable insights into the age of the perfume. Look for any batch codes, which are usually a combination of letters and numbers. Guerlain used complex batch codes that indicated both the year and month of production. For example, the Blue box design corresponds to the 1950s, the Dot or Coffee Beans box to the 1960s until 1967, and the Black and White ZigZag box from 1967 onwards.
In addition to batch codes, stickers may also include other information such as the perfume's launch date, bottle shape numbers, or lot numbers. This information can be cross-referenced with online resources and perfume enthusiast websites to narrow down the age of your Guerlain perfume bottle more accurately. Keep in mind that the style of the sticker and its design can also provide clues about its era, with certain artistic styles corresponding to specific time periods.
Sometimes, stickers may be found on the packaging rather than the bottle itself. In such cases, it's important to carefully inspect the box for any stickers or labels that might provide useful information. Additionally, the presence or absence of a sticker can also be indicative of certain eras. For instance, bottles from the 1930s and early 1940s often had lot numbers, bottle shape numbers, or patent numbers embossed directly into the glass base, rather than stickers.
Lastly, it's worth mentioning that stickers can sometimes be counterfeit or reused from older bottles, so it's important to consider other dating methods as well. For instance, the colour of the perfume, the design of the bottle, and the presence of other markings or etchings can all provide additional clues about its age. Combining these factors with information from the sticker will help you to more accurately date your Guerlain perfume bottle.
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Examine the bottle design
The design of a Guerlain perfume bottle can provide clues as to its age. For example, the "umbrella bottle" (or "flacon de sac"), which was first introduced in 1952, has an elegant shape that resembles a closed umbrella pointing downwards. It was used for all perfumes circulating in extrait de parfum (pure parfum) until the end of the 1970s, except for Nahéma (1976).
The "bee bottle" has been a Guerlain signature for close to 170 years. It can be personalised with 12 astrological sign charms designed by Maison Dragon, which slip around the neck of the bottle.
Other notable bottle designs include the Flacon Chauve Souris (The Bat), an urn-shaped bottle designed by Raymond Guerlain in c1924 to hold Shalimar; the Flacon Bouchon Coeur (Heart-Shaped Stopper), designed in c1912 to house extraits of L'Heure Bleue, Fol Arome, and Mitsouko; and the Flacon Tortue (Turtle), created by Baccarat c1914-1959 to hold extraits of Le Parfum des Champs Elysees.
The original Guerlain Parure bottle, released in 1975, is described as a "rounded body topped with a crystal cap which reprises the movement of a wave, the whole mounted on a small pedestal in black bakelite engraved with Guerlain and housed in a celadon-hued box".
Some Guerlain bottles can be dated by the stickers on their base. From 1924-1949, Guerlain used stickers with a Roman numeral for the month and a letter for the year. For example, "III.L" indicates March 1935, and "X.N" means October 1937. From 1950 onwards, the stickers used a letter for the month and a number for the year, so "A.50" means January 1950, and "B.51" means February 1951.
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Consider the perfume's launch date
The launch date of a perfume can be a helpful indicator of the era of a Guerlain perfume bottle. For instance, the Parure fragrance was launched in 1975 and was discontinued in October 1980. The Eau de Cologne Imperiale was launched in 1853. Shalimar, on the other hand, has been in production for decades, with vintage bottles from the 1970s, 1980s, and 1990s.
The launch date of a perfume can be cross-referenced with other indicators to determine the age of a perfume bottle. For example, the design of the bottle and packaging can provide clues about its age. The shape and style of the bottle, such as the famous Marly Horse bottles, can indicate the era in which it was produced. The presence of a stopper or a cap, and whether it is made of glass or plastic, can also provide clues about the age of the bottle.
The batch codes and stickers on Guerlain perfume bottles can also be helpful in determining their age. These codes can indicate the year and month of production, but they can be complex and vary over time. For example, the Blue Box design indicates the 1950s, while the Dot or Coffee Beans box indicates the 1960s until 1967. The Black and White Zigzag box was introduced in 1967.
It is important to note that dating Guerlain perfume bottles can be a challenging task, and even with careful analysis, it may be difficult to determine the exact age of a bottle. However, by considering multiple factors, including the launch date, design, packaging, and batch codes, it is possible to make an educated guess about the approximate era or decade of a bottle's production.
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Research the manufacturer
The House of Guerlain was founded in 1828 by Pierre-François Pascal Guerlain, who opened the first Guerlain shop on the Rue de Rivoli in Paris. The store initially sold vinegars, scented soaps, and cosmetic products. Pierre-François began creating custom fragrances for high society Parisians, including French Emperor Napoleon III and his wife, Empress Eugénie, for whom he created the Eau de Cologne Impériale in 1853. This perfume earned him the title of His Majesty's Official Perfumer.
The success of the House of Guerlain continued with Pierre-François' sons, Aimé Guerlain and Gabriel Guerlain, who took over the business after their father's death in 1864. The roles were divided between the two brothers, with Gabriel managing and expanding the house, and Aimé becoming the master perfumer. Aimé created many classic compositions, including Fleur d'Italie (1884), Rococo (1887), and Eau de Cologne du Coq (1894). However, his most significant creation was Jicky in 1889, which was the first fragrance described as a "parfum" and among the first to use synthetic ingredients alongside natural extracts.
The business was then passed down to the sons of Gabriel Guerlain: Jacques Guerlain and Pierre Guerlain. Jacques, Aimé's nephew, became Guerlain's third master perfumer and created several iconic perfumes, including Mitsouko (1919) and Shalimar (1925), which remains Guerlain's flagship fragrance. After Jacques' death in 1963, his grandson, Jean-Paul Guerlain, took over as the fourth master perfumer. Jean-Paul created several classic men's fragrances, including Vétiver (1959) and Habit Rouge (1965).
In 1994, the Guerlain family sold the company to the luxury goods conglomerate LVMH, marking a break with tradition as the role of master perfumer was no longer tied to family succession. Jean-Paul Guerlain remained as an in-house perfumer until 2002, but other perfumers were brought in, including Mathilde Laurent and Maurice Roucel. In 2008, Thierry Wasser became the first non-family 'nose' in the history of the house, focusing on sustainability and maintaining Guerlain's exacting standards.
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Frequently asked questions
If your perfume doesn't have a batch number, it could be fake. However, labels on bottles can be removed, so it's strange not to see any code on the box.
Guerlain has adopted several letters and numbers, different boxes, and complicated batch codes, indicating years and months. You should look at the boxes, labels, symbols, and the perfume's launch date to try and determine its age.
The Flacon Chauve Souris (The Bat) was designed in c1924. The Flacon Bouchon Coeur (Heart-Shaped Stopper) has been in production since c1912. The Flacon Bouchon Fleurs (Floral Stopper) was produced between c1914 and 1950.
From 1924-1949, Guerlain used a blue and red sticker with a Roman numeral and a letter located in the lower right corner. The Roman numeral indicates the month, and the letter indicates the year. For example, "III.L" indicates March 1935. From 1950 onwards, the stickers continued to use a letter to indicate the year but switched to using numbers for the months, so "X.N" indicates October 1953.
Guerlain batch codes are typically found on the bottom of the bottle. They can be a string of letters and numbers, such as "3Y01" or "PH 300". You can compare these codes with others online to try and determine the age of your perfume.
