Creating Your Signature Scent: A Guide To Making Cologne

Creating your own cologne is a fun and rewarding process that allows you to express your creativity and develop a unique scent that reflects your personality and taste. In this guide, you will learn the basics of cologne making, from choosing the right ingredients and understanding fragrance notes to blending and bottling your signature scent. You will also discover the key differences between cologne and perfume, and explore the various options available to customize your cologne-making experience. Whether you prefer woody and herbal or floral and powdery scents, get ready to dive into the fascinating world of cologne creation!

Understand the fragrance scale

Understanding the fragrance scale is an important step in creating your own cologne. The fragrance scale, or fragrance pyramid, is made up of three types of notes: top, middle, and base notes. Each of these notes evaporates at a different rate, and choosing a variety of each will help you create a well-balanced scent.

Top notes, also known as head or opening notes, are the first thing you smell when you spray a fragrance. They evaporate quickly but form the first impression of the scent. Middle notes, or heart notes, appear once the top notes have dried down. These are considered the main body of the fragrance and last longer than the top notes. The base notes are the foundation of the fragrance and the longest-lasting part. They mix with the middle notes to create the full body of the cologne and are what you remember the most.

When blending your cologne, it's important to consider the ratios of each type of note. A basic pyramid accord consists of 60% base notes, 30% middle notes, and 10% top notes. However, you can experiment with different ratios to create the formula that works best for the type of profile you're trying to create. For example, you could try a ratio of 20% base, 50% middle, and 30% top notes.

Once you've selected your notes, it's time to start mixing them together. Remember that not all notes will go together, so this is where trial and error come into play. Start by dropping a few oils one by one and mixing them together. You can also add alcohol to help preserve your cologne and water or glycerin to dilute it and help it stick to your skin.

Choose your essential oils

The essential oils you choose will make up the unique scent of your cologne, so it's important to select ones that appeal to you. There are a few things to keep in mind when choosing your essential oils:

• Fragrance notes: In traditional perfumery, there are three types of notes: base notes, middle (or heart) notes, and top notes. Each type of note evaporates at a different rate, with base notes lasting the longest and top notes being the most volatile. When creating your cologne, you'll want to choose a variety of notes to help create a well-balanced scent.
• Scent families: Scents can also be grouped into different families, such as floral, oriental, woody, or fresh (citrus). When mixing your cologne, combining scents from neighbouring families can create harmony.
• Desired scent profile: Do you want your cologne to be woody and slightly sweet, or more romantic and floral? Perhaps you want something fresh and citrusy, or earthy and spicy. Deciding on the overall scent profile you want to achieve will help guide your essential oil choices.

Base notes

• Sandalwood (woody)
• Tonka bean (oriental)
• Violet leaf (floral)
• Vanilla (oriental)
• Patchouli (woody)
• Vetiver (earthy)
• Frankincense (resinous)
• Cedarwood (woody)
• Musk (musky)
• Rose (floral)

Middle notes

• Geranium (floral)
• Ylang-ylang (floral)
• Rose (floral)
• Lotus flower (floral)
• Jasmine (floral)
• Palmarosa (floral)
• Coriander (spicy)
• Lavender (floral)

Top notes

• Lavender (floral)
• Neroli (floral)
• Magnolia (floral)
• Mandarin (citrus)
• Lemon (citrus)
• Orange (citrus)
• Grapefruit (citrus)
• Lime (citrus)

Remember that the scent of your finished cologne will be different from the individual scents of the essential oils. The essential oils will be diluted and blended, resulting in a more muted and complex fragrance. Feel free to experiment with different combinations of essential oils to create a unique scent that you adore.

Blend the oils

Blending the oils is the fun part of the process. You can start to experiment with different combinations of oils and create a unique fragrance.

Firstly, it's important to understand the fragrance scale. Top notes are the first thing you'll smell, then middle notes appear once the top notes dry down, and finally, the base notes will be the fragrance foundation. The ratio of these notes is important to the overall scent. A good starting point for beginners is the basic pyramid accord, which is 60% base notes, 30% middle notes, and 10% top notes. However, you can also experiment with different ratios to find what works for the type of profile you're trying to create.

When it comes to choosing your essential oils, there are many options. If you prefer woody, slightly sweet scents, you might opt for cedarwood. If you're more of a romantic floral fan, jasmine, rose, or ylang-ylang could be your go-to. Remember, the final result will likely be more muted than the initial scent of the oil.

Now it's time to start mixing. Remember, not all notes go together, so this is where trial and error come into play. Add your oils one by one, and start with a maximum of 30 drops in total. If one scent is much stronger than the others, use less. Once you have your desired formula, add two ounces of alcohol.

Some suggested combinations include blending base notes like sandalwood, tonka bean, violet leaf, or vanilla with middle notes such as geranium, ylang-ylang, rose, or lotus flower. You can then top this formula off with lavender, neroli, magnolia, or mandarin for a truly signature scent.

Once you've created your unique fragrance, it's time to let it sit and develop. Allow the fragrance to brew and sit for 48 hours, and you can even refrigerate it for two weeks to help the molecules mix.

Dilute the fragrance

Diluting your fragrance is an important step in creating your own cologne. Here are some detailed instructions and tips to guide you through the process:

Choosing the Right Diluent

The choice of diluent depends on the type of fragrance you want to create. If you are making an alcohol-based perfume spray, it is advisable to dilute your fragrance in perfumer's alcohol. This option enhances the evaporation of the fragrance, allowing you to experience its full scent profile. However, if you plan to add your fragrance to bases like candles, creams, detergents, or oils, you should opt for a different diluent. Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) is a common choice in the fragrance industry, as it can be used with various bases. Nevertheless, it is derived from petrochemicals, making it unsuitable for natural perfumery. For a natural approach, you can use benzyl benzoate or benzyl alcohol, though these may restrict your options for blending.

Dilution Ratios

When diluting your fragrance, it is crucial to use the correct ratios. A good rule of thumb is to start with a 10% dilution for most materials. However, for strong materials like Ethyl Vanillin, Calone, and Violet Leaf, a 1% dilution is more appropriate. Remember to adjust the ratios according to your specific needs and preferences. You can always experiment with different ratios to find the perfect intensity for your cologne.

Measuring and Mixing

Accuracy is essential when diluting fragrances. Avoid using drops, as they can be imprecise. Instead, opt for a scale, preferably a jewellery scale that measures down to 0.01g. For a 10g solution at a 10% dilution, you will need 1g of the fragrance and 9g of the diluent. For a 1% dilution, use 0.1g of the fragrance and 9.9g of the diluent. Always mix your fragrance and diluent in a washable glass beaker or directly in a dropper bottle to ensure an accurate and repeatable formula.

Handling Thick Materials

Some materials, like Tonka Absolute and mimosa absolute, may be challenging to dilute due to their thick consistency. To address this, gently warm the absolute in a water bath and then blend it with alcohol. Return the mixture to the water bath and stir carefully until the absolute and alcohol are fully combined. Be mindful of evaporation during this process, and only heat the mixture for the minimum time required to achieve blending.

Dilution Considerations

There are a few important considerations to keep in mind when diluting fragrances. Firstly, if you dilute your fragrance in perfumer's alcohol, you won't be able to add it to certain bases, including creams, detergents, candles, and soaps. Secondly, you don't need to dilute all your materials; some may be used neat, especially if you need to keep them for future use. Lastly, be cautious when working with strong fragrances, as they can be overpowering even in small quantities.

Bottle and package your cologne

Now that you've created your cologne, it's time to bottle and package it.

Sterilise your bottles and jars

Wash your bottles and jars in a dishwasher, especially if you are reusing them. It is important that your containers are clean and sterile before you add your cologne.

Choose an appropriate bottle

The bottle you choose will depend on the type of fragrance you are creating. If you are selling your cologne, your customers will expect luxurious packaging for a perfume that will cost them $60 an ounce. If your cologne is reasonably priced, an attractive bottle and label will suffice.

Bottle your cologne

Pour your cologne into your chosen bottle. If you are using clear bottles, you will need to cover them with aluminium foil or wrapping paper to protect your fragrance from the light.

Package your cologne

Design your packaging. You can work with designers to create something truly special that reflects your brand and vision. Your packaging should complement the type of fragrance you have created.

Frequently asked questions