Lance Carson
Choosing a perfume is a highly personal endeavour, and there are many factors to consider when selecting a fragrance. Perfumes interact with your body chemistry in unique ways, so it's essential to understand how a fragrance will evolve on your skin. Your skin type, pH level, and natural body odour can all influence how a perfume smells on you. For example, oily skin and dark skin tend to retain scents longer and pair well with oriental, heavy fragrances or those with spices, sweetness, floriental, balsamic, musky, and leathery notes. When testing perfumes, apply them to your pulse points and observe how the scent develops over a few hours. You can also seek recommendations from friends, fragrance experts, or scent designers to find perfumes that align with your tastes and desired scent profile. Additionally, consider the occasion and time of day when choosing a perfume. Citrus fragrances, for instance, can provide dynamism and motivation during a long workday, while oriental scents can be perfect for a date night. Ultimately, choosing a perfume is about finding a signature scent that resonates with you and leaves a lasting impression.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Skin type | Oily skin and dark skin retain scents longer and pair well with oriental, heavy fragrances or those with spices, sweetness, floriental, balsamic, musky, and leathery notes |
| pH level | Basic or acidic skin |
| Level of melanin | |
| Natural body odor | |
| Age | Younger individuals should opt for lighter, fresher scents. More mature individuals should embrace sophisticated fragrances with rich and complex notes. |
| Occasion | For a long day at the office, opt for fragrances from the citrus family. For a date, opt for orientals. |
| Time of day | Daytime scents focus on fruity notes. |
| Season | In warmer weather, opt for light and refreshing citrus notes. In fall, choose woody and spicy notes. |
| Zodiac sign | Aries: Floral fragrances with citrus fruits. Taurus: Spices and woody scents. Gemini: Gourmet juices and vegetal notes. |
| Personality | Sweet and playful: Floral fragrances. Outdoorsy: Woody fragrances. Bubbly: Citrus fragrances. Homebody: Sweet fragrances. Sporty: Green fragrances. |
| Gender | Notes of leather, tobacco, or patchouli appeal more to men, while floral or powdery notes will attract women looking for an ultra-feminine scent. |
| Scent concentration | Eau de cologne, eau de toilette, eau de parfum, or parfum |
| Cost | More expensive perfumes tend to last longer |
| Sample | Smell from the bottle first. Use sample strips. Ask for free samples. |
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What You'll Learn
Skin type and body chemistry
There are three skin types: dry, combination, and oily. Dry skin may cause a fragrance to dissipate more quickly, requiring more frequent reapplication. In contrast, oily skin tends to retain fragrances longer due to the increased adherence of perfume molecules to the skin's surface. Skin with higher oil content will generally develop perfumes better, resulting in a more pleasant version of the scent. The pH of the skin is also important—the more supple the skin, the better the fragrance will hold. A concentration of 20% or more is more suitable for people with acidic skin types.
Other factors that influence how a fragrance interacts with your skin include body temperature, diet, and lifestyle choices. Higher body temperatures can amplify certain notes in a perfume, while cooler skin might mute these same notes. Foods rich in spices or garlic, for example, can alter your natural scent, as can smoking or drinking.
To choose a perfume that suits your skin type and body chemistry, it is recommended to test perfumes in different conditions, such as indoors versus outdoors, or in hot versus cool weather. You should also pay attention to how the perfume changes during its different stages of development: top notes, heart notes, and base notes. A scent that starts well but becomes less appealing over time might not be the best choice for your skin chemistry.
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Sample and test
Sampling fragrances is an important step in choosing a perfume that suits your preferences and personality. It allows you to test different scents and identify those that resonate with you, without committing to a full-sized bottle. Here are some tips for effective sampling and testing:
In-Store Sampling
When sampling fragrances in a store, it is recommended to use paper blotters or smelling strips. These are typically made of absorbent, porous paper that allows perfumes to be absorbed quickly for evaluation. To use a blotter, hold it away from your body and spray the perfume in a downward motion, avoiding any contact with your hands, clothes, or the table underneath. You can then wave the scented strip under your nose, being careful not to touch it. Blotters provide a safe way to experience the scent without overwhelming your senses or contaminating other fragrances you may want to try.
Testing on Skin
After narrowing down your options with blotters, you can proceed to test your preferred fragrances on your skin. Spray or dab a small amount of the perfume on your wrist or the back of your hand, and let it settle for at least 30 seconds. Once it starts to dry, bring your hand close to your nose and inhale. Keep in mind that fragrances can interact differently with individual body chemistry, so take note of how the scent develops over time.
Taking Your Time
It is important to give yourself enough time between testing different fragrances. Your sense of smell can typically handle about three scents before it starts to get confused. Take breaks between sampling different sets of fragrances, and use olfactory palate cleansers like coffee beans to reset your sense of smell. Additionally, consider testing fragrances earlier in the day, as our sense of smell is usually sharpest in the morning.
Sampling at Home
To fully experience a fragrance, it is recommended to obtain samples and wear them for a few days. This allows you to go through the complete fragrance cycle, understanding how it fits into your lifestyle and interacts with your body chemistry. You can acquire samples through promotions, free samples, beauty subscription boxes, or by purchasing individual samples from luxury brands. Remember to store your samples properly, away from direct sunlight and extreme temperatures, to extend their shelf life.
Patch Testing
Before widespread application, always perform a patch test to check for any allergies or adverse reactions. Fragrances can smell different on each person, and it is essential to ensure that you are comfortable with how the perfume interacts with your unique body chemistry.
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Scent concentration
There are several categories of perfumes based on their concentration levels. These include Parfum or Extrait de Parfum, Eau de Parfum (EDP), Eau de Toilette (EDT), Eau de Cologne, and Eau Fraiche.
Parfum has the highest concentration of perfume oils, typically between 20% and 40%. It is the longest-lasting type of perfume, staying on the skin for up to eight hours. Due to its powerful concentration, it is ideal for special occasions when you want your scent to be noticeable and long-lasting. Parfum fragrances are usually crafted from natural, rare, and precious ingredients, which makes them the most expensive type of fragrance.
Eau de Parfum has a medium concentration of perfume oils, usually around 15-20%. It is less expensive than Parfum but still offers good longevity, typically lasting for four to six hours. This concentration is often used for fragrances worn during the evening or on a night out.
Eau de Toilette is a cheaper option, with a lower concentration of perfume oil, typically between 5% and 15%. It is a good choice for everyday wear, as it is light and refreshing, lasting around three to five hours.
Eau de Cologne has an even lower concentration, with only 2-4% perfume oil. This type of fragrance will only last for about two to three hours.
Eau Fraiche is the lightest concentration, with only 1-2% perfume oil. It is perfect for those who want a very subtle, delicate fragrance, but it will only last for a couple of hours at best.
The concentration you choose depends on your personal needs and the occasion for which you will be wearing the perfume. If you are looking for a signature scent that is versatile and suitable for any environment, Eau de Parfum is a good choice. For a special event or a fragrance that lasts all day, Parfum is the best option. If you want a light scent for daily use, Eau de Toilette or Eau Fraiche might be preferable.
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Fragrance notes
Top notes, sometimes referred to as head notes, form the top layer of a fragrance. They are the scents you detect first after spraying a perfume, and they evaporate the fastest. Top notes include refreshing and effervescent scents like citrus fruits, which include ancient ingredients like resins, verbena, and lemongrass, as well as more modern variations such as pomelo, grapefruit, yuzu, and hassaku. Floral and fresh scents are also commonly used as top notes.
Heart notes, or middle notes, appear as the top notes start to fade and remain evident for the full life of the fragrance. They are considered the main body of the fragrance and last longer than top notes. Heart notes include full-bodied, aromatic floral oils like jasmine, geranium, neroli, and ylang-ylang, as well as spices like cinnamon, pepper, pine, black pepper, and cardamom.
Base notes are the foundation of the fragrance, mixing with the middle notes to create its full body. They are rich, heavy, and long-lasting, sinking into your skin and lingering for six hours or more. Base notes include woodsy scents like cedarwood, sandalwood, vetiver, and amber, as well as musky and earthy scents.
Other unique fragrance notes include fig leaf, which gives modern "fig" fragrances their bitter-green-allied-to-coconut-sweet scent, and violet leaf, which adds an aqueous, cucumber-like feel to compositions, especially masculine ones. Tea leaves also infuse blends with their unique aromatic profiles, and herbs like rosemary, thyme, mint, and basil are referred to as "aromatic notes" by perfumers.
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Astrological sign
Astrology can be a fun way to choose a perfume that reflects your personality and desires. While there are no hard-and-fast rules, your astrological birth chart can offer a guide to discovering the perfect scent.
Aries (21 March – 19 April) is a fire sign ruled by Mars, the planet of passion and energy. This sign needs a bold, spicy fragrance like black pepper, cinnamon or ginger to match their fearless nature.
Taurus (20 April – 20 May) is an earth sign ruled by Venus, so Taureans crave comfort, luxury and sensuality. Rich, indulgent scents like rose, vanilla or sandalwood capture their luxurious vibe. For men, Armani Code is a good choice, with its fresh-meets-woody tones.
Gemini (21 May – 20 June) is a lively air sign ruled by Mercury. Geminis need a fresh, light, playful fragrance that reflects their curious and sociable nature. Citrusy scents like lime or lemon, or fresh florals like jasmine or lily, will match their ever-changing moods.
Cancer (21 June – 22 July) is a water sign ruled by the Moon. Cancers are intuitive, emotional and nurturing, so they need soft, comforting fragrances like vanilla, jasmine or sandalwood. Fenty EDP is also said to be a good match for this star sign.
Leo is a fire sign, so Leos will like flamboyant, upbeat fragrances. They are likely to wear something trendy and loud, like Angel, Good Girl or Black Opium.
Virgo is an earth sign, so nature-based fragrances with earthy notes will appeal.
Libra (23 September – 22 October) is an air sign ruled by Venus, so Librans tend to be romantics. They like light, harmonious blends of woody, floral, citrusy and earthy scents, like Bamboo by Gucci or Fusion d’Issey by Issey Miyake.
Scorpio (23 October – 21 November) is a water sign ruled by Mars and Pluto, planets that bring intensity and mystery. Scorpios need deep, dark, smoky scents like oud, patchouli and incense. They might also like something classic or sexy, like Habanita.
Sagittarius (22 November – 21 December) is a fire sign ruled by Jupiter. Sagittarians are travellers and philosophers, so they need a fragrance that evokes adventure and freedom.
Capricorn is an earth sign, so they like woody notes like cedarwood and Haitian vetiver. They will wear something expensive but not loud or complicated, like a Chanel exclusive.
Aquarius is an air sign, so they like light, airy scents. They might like something earthy, like By The Fireplace, or something with intense woody or amber notes to keep them grounded.
Pisces is a water sign, so they like dreamy, watery scents with a touch of the mystical and marine. Ocean and sage create a calming fragrance that speaks to Pisces' fluid and empathetic nature. They might also like Lolita Lempicka or an oil from a witchy shop.
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Frequently asked questions
Perfumes are highly personal, and the right one should correspond to you 100%. For instance, if you're a sweet and bubbly person, you might want to try a gourmand fragrance with edible scents like honey or chocolate. If you're more of a trailblazer, woody fragrances with notes of moss or bark might be a good fit.
Perfumes interact with your body chemistry in unique ways, so it's important to consider how a fragrance will evolve on your skin. Factors such as skin type, pH level, and natural body odour can influence how a perfume smells on you. For example, oily skin and dark skin tend to retain scents longer and pair well with oriental or musky fragrances.
When testing perfumes, apply them to your pulse points and give them a few hours to develop on your skin. Observe how the scent changes over time. You can also take samples home and try them out for a few days. If you're in a store, a good salesperson will engage with you and describe the scents to make the experience enjoyable.
