Choosing A Cologne: A Guide For Men

Choosing a cologne can be a daunting task, but it doesn't have to be. A general understanding of fragrance-speak is helpful when choosing a cologne. The most important thing to know is the scent pyramid: top, heart, and base notes. Top notes are what you smell immediately and dissipate fastest; the heart is the core of the scent and what you smell after the cologne has dried down a little; and the base notes are the core smell that stays on your skin the longest.

It's always nice to know what kind of scents you gravitate toward—woods, spices, freshness—to help cut through the options quickly. But even with that knowledge, the most important thing you need to do is put your nose to the bottle. Choose a scent that smells like you, in all your glorious multifaceted-ness. Remember, colognes aren't just about smelling good; they're also about how they make you feel.

- Learn the lingo: Aftershave and cologne refer to a fragrance's concentration levels and ultimately determine how long a scent will last.

- Know your notes: Most traditional men's fragrances are built in three layers. The top notes are the ones you'll smell first, but these quickly fade, giving way to the middle notes, which linger slightly longer before you're left with the base notes.

- Shop for the occasion: Just as you dress for the occasion, you should spray for it too. Each fragrance falls under a 'family' – such as woody, citrus, floral, or oriental – which is usually a giveaway of when it's best deployed.

- Try before you buy: To properly shop for a fragrance, you need to wear it. Not only do scents change over time, but they also react differently to different body chemistry.

Understand the different types of cologne

When it comes to choosing a cologne, it's important to understand the different types available. The various types of cologne are categorized based on their strength and concentration levels. Here is a breakdown of the common types:

Eau Fraiche

Eau Fraiche is the most diluted form of cologne with a concentration of 1-3% perfume oil in alcohol and water. It is designed to last for a short duration, usually less than an hour. Due to its low concentration, it is often inexpensive and not considered a good investment by some.

Eau de Cologne (EDC)

Eau de Cologne, often referred to simply as "cologne," typically contains 2-5% perfume oil. It tends to be a lighter, fresher fragrance with fruity or floral notes. EDCs are designed for younger audiences and usually last for about 2 hours, making them ideal for short outings or occasions.

Eau de Toilette (EDT)

Eau de Toilette has a higher concentration of 5-15% pure perfume essence. These fragrances are more subtle and long-lasting, with a typical duration of 2-4 hours. EDTs are suitable for daily use and can get you through work or a night out.

Eau de Parfum (EDP)

Eau de Parfum has an even higher concentration, ranging from 15-20% pure perfume essence. This type of cologne is more intense and long-lasting, with a duration of up to 8 hours. EDPs are suitable for those who want their fragrance to make a stronger impression and last through the day.

Parfum

Parfum is the most concentrated form of cologne, with a concentration of 20-30% pure perfume essence. A single application can last up to 24 hours. Due to its potency, parfum is typically reserved for special occasions rather than daily use. It is also the most expensive type of cologne.

When choosing a cologne, it's important to consider the desired duration, intensity, and suitability for the occasion. Additionally, it's worth noting that colognes are often classified into fragrance families such as woody, citrus, floral, or oriental, which can help guide your selection based on your preferences and the intended use.

Learn the lingo

When it comes to choosing a cologne, it's important to know the lingo to understand what you're buying.

Firstly, cologne is a type of perfume, and the term is used for men's fragrances. There are several types of men's fragrances, categorised by their strength or concentration levels. These include:

• Eau Fraiche: The weakest concentration, with 1-3% perfume oil, it lasts around 1-2 hours.
• Eau de Cologne (EDC): With 2-5% perfume oil, this fragrance is usually noticeable for a few hours. It often has more citrus, floral and musk notes, giving it a lighter, fresher scent.
• Eau de Toilette (EDT): With 5-15% perfume oil, this fragrance can last around 3-7 hours.
• Eau de Parfum (EDP): With 15-20% perfume oil, this fragrance can last 5-12 hours.
• Parfum: The strongest concentration, with 20-30% perfume oil, this fragrance can last over 24 hours.

The higher the concentration, the longer the scent will last, and the more expensive the cologne is likely to be.

You'll also see references to 'notes' when looking at colognes. These are the different scents that make up the fragrance and how they interact and change over time. There are three types of notes:

• Top notes: These are the initial, lighter scents that you smell first. They include citrus, light florals, powder, marine and spice notes. They last from 15 minutes to 2 hours.
• Middle/Heart notes: These are the main elements of the fragrance, which develop after the top notes and can last 3-5 hours. They include heavier florals like jasmine, and spices like cinnamon and clove.
• Base notes: These are the bolder scents that develop last and are noticeable later in the day. They are often the boldest notes in the fragrance and can be detected all day. They include sandalwood, moss, vanilla, leather, smoke and tobacco.

When choosing a cologne, it's important to understand these different terms so you know what you're buying and how long it will last.

Know your notes

Knowing the notes of a fragrance is key to choosing the right cologne. The top, middle, and base notes of a cologne all play a role in how it smells and how long it lasts.

The top notes are the initial, lighter smell of the fragrance that hits the nose immediately after application to the skin. They usually consist of light floral scents, citrus, fruity scents, powdery scents, marine and aquatic scents, and spices such as cinnamon. Top notes last from 15 minutes to 2 hours.

The middle notes, also known as the heart notes, emerge after the top notes dissipate and can last 3-5 hours after being sprayed. They often include heavier floral scents such as jasmine, green scents such as grass or stone, and spice scents such as cinnamon and clove. Middle notes build on the top notes, creating a more complex fragrance.

The base notes are the boldest notes in the scent and become more noticeable later in the day. They tend to last from 5 to 10 hours and typically include scents like sandalwood, moss, vetiver, vanilla, tar, leather, smoke, tobacco, and musk. These notes are the most important when choosing a scent as they will be the most dominant and noticeable.

When choosing a cologne, it's important to give it time to see how the base notes settle in and how well they work with your sense of smell. The combination of these three types of notes gives each cologne its unique character and appeal.

Shop for the occasion

When choosing a cologne, it's important to consider the occasion and the impression you want to make. Here are some tips for selecting the right cologne for different occasions:

For everyday use, such as commuting, working, or running errands, opt for lighter and more subtle fragrances. Floral, citrusy, or earthy scents are great choices. During the daytime, the warmth of the sun can enhance the projection of your cologne, so it's best to avoid strong perfumes like Parfum and Eau de Parfum (EDP). Instead, go for Eau de Cologne (EDC) or Eau de Toilette (EDT), or even unisex scents, which tend to be more neutral. Save the gourmand and sultry scents like honey, vanilla, or chocolate for cooler weather.

When it comes to social events like weddings, don't be afraid to wear your favourite fragrance. It's a great way to express your individuality, as you'll be surrounded by people wearing various scents, from vanilla to orange blossom.

If you're going out with friends after work, a nostalgic fragrance like vanilla, coffee, or cocoa can help you relax and stay focused.

For date nights, choose a fragrance that exudes confidence, such as sweet, woody, spicy, or musky scents. These fragrances can help spark romance while maintaining a sophisticated edge. If you're in a relationship, you can opt for a perfume that you and your partner both enjoy.

When travelling, it's a good idea to create fragrance memories by wearing scents that match your destination. For example, coconut or aquatic fragrances are perfect for beach vacations. Pay attention to the local vibe and choose fragrances that complement it. You'll likely find yourself reaching for floral, fruity, or citrusy scents, as they blend seamlessly with vacation vibes.

In the office, if your workplace allows fragrances, opt for something light and neutral, as some co-workers may be sensitive to strong scents. Spicy, woody, and citrusy notes can boost your confidence and help you make a good impression.

Try before you buy

Trying a cologne before you buy it is crucial. You need to know that it's a winner, especially if you're going to be committing to the scent and paying a good amount of money for it.

Firstly, it's important to know that colognes react differently with different body chemistries. What smells good on blotting paper won't necessarily smell the same on you.

When testing a cologne, spray one on each wrist and on the inside of each elbow, then let them develop over three to four hours. You can also try spraying on your neck, armpits, knees, and behind the ears, as these are pulse points and will give the most even distribution of scent.

If you're testing multiple colognes, limit your testing to four. Any more than this and you won't be able to distinguish the different scents.

When testing, pay attention to how the scent changes over time. Colognes are typically made up of three notes: top notes, middle notes (also known as heart notes), and base notes. The top notes are usually very strong and overpowering, but they don't last long, dissipating within about 30 minutes. The middle notes emerge as the top notes dissipate and help transition to the base notes. The base notes are the most important when choosing a scent as they are the most dominant oils and will be the most noticeable.

If you're buying cologne online, most retailers will sell sample sizes so you can test the fragrance before committing to a full-size bottle.

If you're buying cologne in a department store, be patient. Spray the cologne on, then walk around the mall or grab some food for half an hour so the cologne can settle in and transition.

When you're testing colognes, you can ask the salespeople for advice, but ultimately, you have to love the fragrance you're wearing. If in doubt, don't buy it.

Frequently asked questions