Choosing A Cologne: A Guide For Beginners

Choosing a cologne can be a daunting task, but it's important to remember that it's a very personal choice. A cologne can enhance your beauty, boost your mood, and even attract a potential mate. With thousands of options available, here are some tips to help you pick the perfect scent that matches your unique style and personality:

- Understand the Different Notes and Layers: Fragrances are made up of different notes that work together to create a specific smell. These notes are typically classified into three layers: base, top or head, and middle or heart notes. Common base notes include sandalwood, musk, and vanilla, while top notes can be lighter florals, citrus, or fruity scents. Middle notes often include heavier florals like jasmine or green scents.

- Determine Your Preferred Concentration: Fragrances come in different concentration levels, usually ranging from Eau Fraiche (lightest) to Parfum (highest concentration). Higher concentration fragrances tend to be more expensive, but they also have a stronger scent and last longer. Consider how long you want your cologne to last and how often you're willing to reapply when choosing the concentration.

- Sample Before You Buy: Always try a cologne on your skin before purchasing. Fragrances interact with your unique body chemistry, so what smells good on someone else might not work for you. Spray a small amount on your wrist, wait a few moments, and then smell it. You can also ask for samples from department stores or purchase discovery sets to test different fragrances.

- Understand Fragrance Families: Familiarize yourself with the different fragrance families, such as woody, floral, aquatic, or aromatic. This will help you narrow down your options and find scents that align with your preferences.

- Seek Inspiration: If you're unsure where to start, ask people whose fragrance you admire what they're wearing. You can also take fragrance quizzes or browse online communities dedicated to fragrances, such as Fragrantica, Basenotes, or Parfumo.

- Consider the Occasion: Think about when and where you'll be wearing the cologne. You might want a lighter, fresher scent for the summer and something warmer and spicier for the winter. You can also have multiple fragrances for different occasions, such as one for work and another for date nights.

Understand the different types of notes

When it comes to choosing a cologne, understanding the different types of notes is key. These notes are the individual scent layers that, when combined, form a unified and pleasing perfume. Notes are typically classified into three categories: top notes, middle notes (or heart notes), and base notes. Each note has a specific role in the fragrance's development and longevity, and they work together to create a unique and appealing scent.

Top notes are the initial scents that you smell when you first spray or apply a cologne. They are usually described as "fresh", "assertive", or "sharp", and they consist of small, light molecules that evaporate quickly. Citrus scents like lemon, orange, and bergamot are commonly used as top notes, along with light floral scents like lavender and rose. These notes are important in creating a first impression and shaping the fragrance's story.

Middle notes, or heart notes, emerge just before the top notes dissipate. They form the "heart" or main body of the cologne and last longer than the top notes. Middle notes are typically more mellow and "rounded", and they help to mask the sometimes unpleasant initial impression of base notes. Common middle notes include full-bodied, aromatic floral oils like jasmine, geranium, neroli, and ylang-ylang, as well as spices like cinnamon, pepper, and cardamom.

Base notes are the foundation of the fragrance and bring depth and solidity. They are rich, heavy, and long-lasting, and they kick in about 30 minutes after application. Popular base notes include vanilla, amber, musk, patchouli, moss, and woody notes like sandalwood and cedarwood. These notes sink into your skin and their scent lingers for hours, sometimes even more than 24 hours.

When choosing a cologne, it's important to consider not only the top notes but also the middle and base notes to fully understand the scent. Additionally, different notes can be associated with specific moods or vibes, so you can choose a cologne that aligns with the feeling you want to convey.

Learn about concentration levels

When choosing a cologne, it's important to understand the different concentration levels, as they will determine the longevity and strength of the scent. Fragrances with higher concentration levels will have a greater amount of perfume oils and less alcohol, making them more expensive. They will also have better staying power on the wearer's skin.

The different types of fragrance concentrations include:

Parfum

Parfum, also known as perfume extract, has the highest concentration of fragrance, typically ranging from 20-30% but can go up to 40% in some cases. A small amount of parfum is very long-lasting, and due to its intensity, it is usually applied sparingly to pulse points such as the wrists, neck, and behind the ears. Parfum is the most expensive type of fragrance and is often used for special occasions.

Eau de Parfum (EDP)

Eau de Parfum has a high concentration of fragrance, typically ranging from 15-20%, but some sources state it can go up to 25%. It strikes a balance between intensity and longevity, making it suitable for everyday wear and special occasions. Eau de Parfum is one of the most common types of fragrances and is often worn in the evening or on a night out.

Eau de Toilette (EDT)

Eau de Toilette has a lower concentration of fragrance, ranging from 5-15%. It offers a more subtle and refreshing scent compared to higher concentration options. EDT is perfect for daytime use or warmer weather when a lighter fragrance is preferred. It is usually more affordable and may require reapplication throughout the day.

Eau de Cologne (EDC)

Eau de Cologne has a low concentration of fragrance, typically containing 2-4% aromatic compounds, although some sources state it can go up to 5%. It is incredibly refreshing and light, perfect for a quick pick-me-up or a post-shower splash. Eau de Cologne typically lasts for 1-2 hours and is well-suited for those with sensitive skin or a preference for delicate scents.

Eau Fraiche

Eau Fraiche has the lowest concentration of fragrance, typically containing only 1-3% perfume oil. It is composed mostly of water, with a small amount of essential oils, providing a subtle and fleeting scent. Eau Fraiche is perfect for warm weather and lighter days, and it is not designed to last long.

Test colognes before buying

Testing colognes before buying is an important step in choosing the right one for you. Here are some tips to help you test colognes effectively:

Testing Fragrances with Blotters

Paper blotters are commonly used to test fragrances. They are simple to use and allow you to test a wide range of fragrances without getting them on your skin. Here's how to use them effectively:

• Spray the fragrance twice in a downward motion in front of you.
• Quickly pass the blotter through the fragrance's vapour cloud.
• Inhale the fragrance from the blotter without letting the card touch your nose.
• Refer back to the card regularly to test the fragrance's life cycle, as fragrances are designed to react with the skin's heat and will evolve over time.
• Try to use thicker, grainier cards as they tend to be more absorbent and provide a richer testing experience.
• Store used blotters separately from unused cards to prevent cross-contamination.

Testing Fragrances on Your Skin

Testing a fragrance on your skin is the best way to see how it evolves and reacts with your body chemistry. Here's how to test fragrances on your skin:

• Spray the fragrance on the back of your hand or wrist, respecting the correct spray distance.
• Allow the fragrance to dry naturally and do not rub it in.
• Inhale the fragrance without letting it touch your nose.
• Refer back to the test area over time to see how the scent evolves.
• Ensure your hands are thoroughly washed before testing to avoid any interference from other smells.
• Avoid washing your hands during testing, as soap and water can affect the fragrance's natural evolution.

Additional Tips for Testing Fragrances

• Avoid wearing fragrances when testing, as it can interfere with the results, especially during a skin test.
• Use coffee beans to neutralise odours between tests. Coffee beans have been proven to work as olfactory palate cleansers, soothing nasal receptors and maintaining odour intensity.
• Test fragrances in the morning, as your sense of smell is usually sharper during this time.
• Test fragrances during warmer months, as higher moisture content in the air can refine your nasal receptors.

Ask others for their opinions

When choosing a cologne, it's important to ask for the opinions of others. While you may be the best person to determine which scent suits you, it's still useful to seek reinforcement or criticism of your choice from others.

If you're unsure about where to start, ask your close friends and family what they think of a particular scent. If you're testing colognes in a department store, don't be afraid to ask a salesperson for advice. They are usually knowledgeable and can help you narrow down your options. However, be cautious of pushy salespeople who may be more interested in making a sale than finding the right scent for you.

If you already have a scent in mind, ask people what they think of it. If you like a particular cologne that someone else is wearing, ask them about it. You can then use that information to find a similar fragrance. Most fragrance websites list the notes and category of the cologne, and there are even fragrance quizzes to help narrow down your search.

Online communities and forums are also great resources for seeking opinions and advice about colognes. Sites like Fragrantica, Basenotes, Parfumo, and WikiParfum offer a wealth of information, reviews, and recommendations from other fragrance enthusiasts.

Remember, while it's great to consider the opinions of others, the final choice is ultimately yours. Choose a cologne that you're comfortable with and wear it with confidence.

Learn about fragrance families

When it comes to choosing a cologne, it's important to understand fragrance families to help you find a scent that suits your preferences. Fragrance families are groups of scents with shared characteristics, and there are four primary families: woody, floral, amber (previously known as oriental), and fresh. These families are represented on the Fragrance Wheel, invented by scent expert Michael Edwards, which illustrates their relationship to one another and their corresponding subfamilies.

The floral family is one of the most common, often taking on feminine characteristics. Scents in this family include fresh-cut flowers and powdery notes, with common notes such as rose, jasmine, and orange blossom. The amber family, on the other hand, includes herbs, spices, and dry powdery resin notes, creating a sensual, warm, and exotic aroma. Vanilla, myrrh, and anise are commonly found in this family.

The woody family encompasses warm and opulent scents, blending incense-like fragrances like sandalwood and patchouli with drier notes like cedar. Meanwhile, the fresh family is defined by zingy, aromatic compositions backed by underlying woody notes, offering bright, herby, citrusy, clean, and oceanic scents.

To find the right cologne for you, consider which fragrance family suits your taste and personality. You can also explore the subfamilies within each family to find complementary secondary notes to your preferred scent profile. Additionally, understanding fragrance families can help you discover fragrances that are suitable for different seasons. For example, warming tobacco, leather, and spice notes are ideal for winter, while green and aquatic notes are perfect for summer.

By familiarising yourself with fragrance families, you can make informed choices when selecting a cologne and discover scents that truly resonate with you.

Frequently asked questions