Choosing A Cologne: A Guide For The Modern Gentleman

Choosing a cologne is an important part of a man's personal style and can have a powerful effect on how people perceive and remember him. While visual cues are most important for men when choosing a woman, scent is the most powerful factor for women when choosing men. A man's fragrance can increase his attractiveness and confidence, foster deeper emotional connections, and make him memorable.

When it comes to selecting a cologne, a man is the best judge of which scent suits him. It's important to test how a perfume complements one's natural body odour over the course of a day. One should avoid blind-buying a cologne based on someone's recommendation without trying it first.

There are several types of fragrances, including Eau Fraiche, Eau de Cologne, Eau de Toilette, Eau de Parfum, and Parfum, with varying concentrations of perfume oil and longevity. The top, medium, and base notes of a fragrance also evolve over time, with the base notes often being the boldest and longest-lasting.

Additionally, there are designer and niche fragrances, with the former being mass-produced and the latter being crafted from more expensive and higher-quality ingredients for a selective customer.

Applying cologne correctly is also crucial to avoid overpowering others. It should be sprayed on dry skin, preferably after a shower, and applied to heat areas of the body to create a pleasant scent trail.

How to choose a cologne that suits you

Choosing a cologne is an important decision, as the scent you choose will become part of your identity. It's an invisible part of your personal style and it has a powerful effect on how people see and remember you. Here are some tips on how to choose a cologne that suits you:

Understand the Different Types of Fragrances

Cologne is a term used in North America for masculine scents. It typically contains 2-4% perfume oils in alcohol and water and lasts for about 2 hours. Other types of fragrances include Eau Fraiche, Toilette (or Eau de Toilette), Perfume (or Eau de Parfum), and Parfum. Each type has a different concentration of perfume oils, which affects the strength and longevity of the fragrance.

Consider the Notes of the Fragrance

Fragrances are made up of different notes, including top notes, medium notes, and base notes. Top notes are the initial scent that you smell after application and usually last for 15 minutes to 2 hours. Medium notes are the main element of the fragrance and develop after the top note clears. Base notes are the boldest notes that become more noticeable later in the day and determine how long the fragrance lasts on your skin. Consider which combination of notes you prefer and how you want your fragrance to evolve over time.

Sample Different Colognes

The best way to find a cologne that suits you is to sample different options and see how they complement your natural body odour throughout the day. Department stores are great for this purpose. Spray one scent on each wrist (and each inner elbow if testing four). Avoid using the cards provided to smell the colognes, as they only allow you to smell the top notes. Refresh your palate with something strong, like coffee or tea, between smelling each cologne. Take notes on your phone or journal about which scents you like and why.

Choose a Signature Scent

Consider picking out a signature cologne that sets you apart from others. It could be a classic fragrance like one of Grandpa's drugstore colognes or something unique to you. Your cologne will become part of your identity, so choose something that reflects your personality and that you feel comfortable wearing.

Apply the Cologne Properly

Once you've chosen your cologne, make sure to apply it correctly. Spray it on dry skin, preferably right after a shower, holding the nozzle 3-6 inches away from your skin. Start with one spray on your chest and then gradually add more sprays in different areas as you become more familiar with the scent. Apply it to heat areas of your body, such as your chest, neck, and wrists, to create a scent trail. Remember, less is more—your cologne should be discovered, not announced.

The difference between cologne, perfume, toilette, and fragrance

The world of fragrances can be quite confusing, especially with the many different terms used to describe them. Here is a breakdown of the differences between cologne, perfume, toilette, and fragrance:

Cologne

Cologne, or Eau de Cologne, is the oldest term for perfume and is used in North America specifically for masculine scents. Colognes are typically light, fresh, and fruity, composed of 2-4% perfume oils in alcohol and water. They tend to be used for fragrances targeted at younger people and usually last for about 2 hours.

Perfume

Perfume, or Eau de Parfum, is historically genderless and used to describe both men's and women's products. It contains a higher concentration of perfume essence, typically 15-20%, and lasts for about 5 to 8 hours. Perfumes will be the most expensive of the options and are best if you want your fragrance to last throughout the day.

Toilette

Eau de Toilette is a light spray composition with 5-15% pure perfume essence dissolved in alcohol. Toilettes typically last for about 3 hours and are considered daywear, making them perfect for everyday use. The term "toilette" comes from the French term "faire sa toilette," which means "getting ready."

Fragrance

Fragrance is a generic, unisex term used for perfume and can refer to various forms, including cologne, perfume, and toilette. The strength of the fragrance determines how long it lasts on the skin, with a higher concentration of oils resulting in a stronger and longer-lasting scent.

In summary, the key differences between these terms lie in the concentration of perfume oils, the intensity of the scent, and the longevity of the fragrance. Cologne and Eau de Toilette are ideal for those who want a lighter, more subtle fragrance or are looking for a lower price point, while Perfume offers a stronger and longer-lasting option.

The life cycle of fragrances

Fragrances have a three-part life cycle. Think of an evaporating pyramid where the top slowly disappears until you reach the base. Each of the three sections contains individual scents, or notes, that are belted together into what you smell.

There are three different types of notes that comprise the scent of most fragrances: top, medium, and base notes.

Top Note

The top note is the initial, lighter smell of the fragrance that hits the nose immediately after application to the skin. The top note lasts from 15 minutes to 2 hours. Typical top notes include various light floral scents, citrus, fruity scents, powdery scents, marines and aquatics, and spices such as cinnamon.

Medium Note

Also referred to as the middle or heart notes, the middle note showcases the main element of the fragrance. Middle notes develop after the top note clears and can last 3-5 hours after being sprayed. This is in addition to the top note; they build off each other. Heart notes most often include heavier floral scents such as jasmine, or green scents such as grass or stone. Spice scents such as cinnamon and clove can appear here, along with fruity scents as well.

Base Note

The last to develop, these scents are often the bolder notes of the fragrance which become more noticeable later in the day. Base notes lay the foundation and will determine how long the fragrance lasts on your skin. They tend to last from 5 to 10 hours. Typical base notes are sandalwood, moss, vetiver, vanilla, tar, leather, smoke, tobacco, and musk.

As the notes dry up, the scent will change, allowing for the fragrance to evolve and become more interesting. Typically, the mark of a low-quality fragrance is if it remains monotone throughout its life. Although this isn’t always the case.

How to select and buy the right cologne

The Importance of Cologne

Cologne is an important aspect of personal style for men. It influences how people perceive and remember you, and can even make you more attractive and confident. Fragrance is an invisible part of your style, and it has a powerful effect.

Choosing the Right Cologne

Scientific studies suggest that a man can naturally select the cologne that works best with his natural body scent. You are the best person to determine which scent suits you, so don't let others choose for you. Use the opinions of others to reinforce or question your decision.

The best method to find a new fragrance is to test if the perfume complements your natural body odour over the period of a day. Department stores are great for this purpose, just ensure you don’t buy until you're ready. The maximum number of scents to try at once is four, but if you're just starting out, stick to two (one on each wrist, or one on each inner elbow if you're trying four).

Avoid using the cards provided to smell the colognes, as these will only let you smell the top notes and not how the cologne smells on you. Refresh your palate with something strong, like coffee or tea, between smelling each cologne.

Take notes on your phone or in a journal about which colognes you like and why. Once you've found a winner, purchase a bottle and start wearing it.

Rules for Application

• Spray perfume on dry skin, preferably right after a shower.
• Hold the spray nozzle 3-6 inches from your skin while applying.
• Start with one single spray on your chest, and then branch out to a few more sprays in different areas as you become more comfortable.
• Apply fragrance to heat areas: chest, neck, lower jaw, wrist, forearm, inner elbow, and shoulder.
• Re-spray only when required.
• Don't rub the perfume into your skin, as this breaks the molecular bond, making the scent weaker.
• Don't spray and walk through the mist, as most of the fragrance will drop to the floor.
• Don't spray fragrance on your clothes, as it won't mix with your oils or go through the stages of notes.
• Less is more: fragrance should be discovered, not announced.

Storage

Fragrances do not last forever. Rapid heat fluctuations and sunlight will cause the molecules in a fragrance to break apart. Extend the lifespan of your fragrance by storing it in cool, dark, dry environments, like a bedroom closet.

Rules for cologne application

When it comes to personal style, an often-overlooked aspect is your fragrance. It influences how people perceive and remember you. Our sense of smell is much more sensitive than our sense of vision, and smell triggers memories better than any of the other senses.

Spray on Dry Skin

Spray perfume on dry skin, preferably right after a shower. Hold the spray nozzle 3-6 inches away from your skin while applying.

Start Light

If you're new to wearing fragrances, start with one single spray on your chest. As you become more comfortable, you can branch out to a few more sprays in different areas.

Apply to Heat Areas

Apply cologne to the warmest parts of your body: chest, neck, lower jaw, wrist, forearm, inner elbow, and shoulder. Your body heat will push the scent throughout the day, creating a nice scent trail. Do not spray all these points at once; start with one and then, as you learn the scent, spray 2-3 other spots.

Re-spray Only When Required

You can add more sprays to your wrists, depending on how long the scent lasts. For most people, this will be in the second half of the day.

Don't Rub the Perfume

Rubbing the perfume into your skin seems sensible, but it breaks the molecular bond, making the scent weaker.

Don't Spray and Walk

Spraying a fragrance and then walking through the mist is pointless. Most of the fragrance drops to the floor.

Don't Spray on Clothes

When you spray on clothes, the fragrance can't mix with your oils and go through the natural stages of notes. Also, the oils in a fragrance will stain fabrics.

Less is More

Fragrance should be discovered, not announced. People nearby should be able to smell your cologne but not be overpowered by it.

Frequently asked questions