The Art Of Blending Colognes: A Guide To Creating Scents

Creating your own cologne is a fun and fulfilling activity. It allows you to explore different aromas and develop a unique scent that is wholly your own. While it may seem daunting at first, it's not as difficult as you might think. The process involves choosing the right essential oils, blending them in the correct ratios, and allowing them to mature and synergize.

The first step is to select the essential oils that appeal to your senses and fit your desired fragrance profile. You can choose from a variety of aroma categories, such as citrus, herbal, resinous, spice, or woodland aromas. It's important to understand the different fragrance notes and their roles in creating a well-rounded scent. These include top notes, which are the first scents noticed and quickly fade; middle notes, which blend the scents together; and base notes, which provide the longest-lasting scent.

The next step is to experiment with blending these essential oils. A good starting point is to use a standard blending ratio of 20% top notes, 30% heart notes, and 50% base notes. However, you can adjust these ratios based on your preferences and the type of profile you want to create. It's also crucial to give your blend time to settle, as the constituents in the oils will interact and the aroma can change over a few days.

Additionally, you can dilute your cologne with a carrier, such as fractionated coconut oil or perfumer's alcohol, to extend its longevity and make it suitable for application to the skin. This step also involves adding ingredients like glycerin, which helps the cologne stick to your skin.

Creating your own cologne allows you to express your creativity and develop a signature scent that defines your olfactory footprint. So, grab your essential oils and start blending!

Choose your essential oils

The essential oils you choose will depend on the scent you want to create. You can use essential oils to create masculine or feminine scents.

Masculine scents

For a masculine scent, you can use earthy, woodsy, spicy, and citrus essential oils. Here are some examples:

• Cedarwood
• Sandalwood
• Wild orange
• Bergamot
• Lemon
• Cardamom
• Vetiver
• Lemongrass
• Basil
• Douglas fir
• Clove
• White fir
• Siberian fir
• Juniper
• Cypress
• Pine
• Black pepper
• Myrrh
• Black spruce
• Fennel
• Roman chamomile
• Wintergreen
• Lime
• Ginger
• Blue spruce

Feminine scents

For a feminine scent, you can use soft, floral, and musky essential oils. Here are some examples:

• Jasmine
• Ylang-ylang
• Lavender
• Neroli
• Rose
• Spearmint
• Patchouli
• Ginger
• Clove
• Bergamot
• Vanilla
• Sandalwood
• Frankincense
• Myrrh
• Orange
• Grapefruit
• Palmarosa
• Vetiver
• Neroli
• Clary sage
• Cinnamon
• Oregano
• Thyme
• Nutmeg
• Black pepper
• Bay
• Coriander
• Grapefruit
• Tangerine
• Wintergreen

Blending essential oils

When blending essential oils, you can use the traditional top, middle, and base note approach. Top notes are very volatile and evaporate quickly, providing the first impression of the perfume. Middle notes give the full body to the perfume and take longer to be noticed. Base notes have a more foundational fragrance and slow down the evaporation of the other notes.

Alternatively, you can blend based on the strength of an oil's scent, or its blending factor. To do this, add up the blending factors of each oil and then calculate the percentage of the total for each oil. For example, if you are making a perfume with 10 drops and using lime (blending factor 3), jasmine (blending factor 1), and bergamot (blending factor 7), you would add the blending factors to get a total of 11. Then, for lime, you would calculate 3 divided by 11 (27%) and multiply that by 10 to get 2.7, so lime gets 3 drops.

Examples of blends

• Wild/sweet orange, frankincense, and cinnamon bark
• Wild/sweet orange, green mandarin, juniper berry, and cinnamon bark
• Wild/sweet orange, frankincense, black spruce, and black pepper
• Hawaiian sandalwood, wild/sweet orange, frankincense, and black spruce
• Lemon verbena, clove, juniper, and rosemary
• Spearmint, lime, juniper, and valerian
• Nutmeg, fennel, orange, and cedarwood
• Lime, Roman chamomile, and sandalwood
• Wintergreen, orange, and blue spruce
• Sandalwood, black pepper, and myrrh
• Bergamot, cassia, peppermint, and grapefruit
• Basil, Siberian fir, wild orange, and bergamot
• Fennel, cypress, wild orange, lime, wintergreen, and sandalwood
• Clove, juniper, rosemary, and lemon verbena

And here are some examples of blends for perfume:

• Sweet orange, lime, jasmine, and vanilla
• Rose, sandalwood, bergamot, and jasmine
• Jasmine, frankincense, sweet orange, and vanilla
• Ylang-ylang, lavender, vanilla, and clary sage
• Lemon, rosemary, neroli, or sweet orange
• Lemon, lime, and vanilla
• Patchouli, palmarosa, vetiver, cedarwood, neroli, and vetiver
• Lime, cedarwood, patchouli, and bergamot or sweet orange
• Patchouli, ylang-ylang, and lavender
• Sweet orange, juniper berry, cinnamon bark, and frankincense
• Clary sage, lavender, bergamot, ylang-ylang, and vanilla

Understand fragrance notes

Understanding fragrance notes is key to mastering the art of blending cologne. Like musical notes, fragrance notes are the individual components that, when combined, form a unified and pleasing perfume. These notes are carefully selected and blended to create a perfume accord, the basic character of a fragrance.

Fragrance notes are typically classified into three main types: top notes, heart notes (or middle notes), and base notes. Each note plays a specific role in the fragrance's development and longevity, and they can be identified based on the time passed after applying the perfume.

Top notes are the initial scents you perceive right after applying a perfume. They are light and volatile, lasting only about 5 to 15 minutes. Examples of top notes include citrus scents like lemon, orange, and bergamot, as well as light floral scents such as lavender and rose. Top notes are crucial in shaping the first impression of a fragrance.

Heart notes, or middle notes, form the heart of the fragrance. They appear as the top notes start to fade and typically last for 2 to 3 hours. Heart notes make up a significant proportion of the total scent, usually around 70%. Examples of heart notes include full-bodied floral oils like jasmine, rose, and ylang-ylang, as well as spices like cinnamon and black pepper. Heart notes deepen the fragrance experience and serve as a buffer for the base notes.

Base notes are the foundation of the fragrance, providing depth and longevity. They kick in about 30 minutes after application and can last for 6 hours or more. Base notes are rich, heavy, and long-lasting. Examples include vanilla, amber, musk, patchouli, and woody notes like sandalwood and cedarwood. Base notes create the lasting impression of a fragrance and are often what you remember most.

Each fragrance note contributes unique characteristics to the overall scent, and perfumers carefully select and blend these notes to evoke a certain experience. By understanding fragrance notes, you can better identify the fragrances you like and create a signature scent that suits your preferences.

Dilute with alcohol or water

Diluting your cologne with alcohol or water is a crucial step in the perfume-making process. It is important to note that the type of diluent you use will determine the kind of homemade perfume you create. For instance, using distilled water and alcohol will result in a light, fresh, and fruity eau de cologne that does not last long and needs to be reapplied often. On the other hand, a liquid perfume, which uses only essential oils, will be long-lasting and well-balanced.

When diluting your cologne, it is imperative that you do not add water to oil-based perfumes as this may cause mold to develop in the final product. The water you use should be pure and distilled, and the alcohol should be at least 80-proof. The alcohol in your homemade blend will evaporate quickly and will not leave a scent, so it is important to remember that your diluent is simply a means to deliver the essential oils.

If you are creating a spray cologne, you will need a glass spray bottle, essential oils, and alcohol or witch hazel. First, add your essential oils to the spray bottle and shake well. Next, add glycerin and shake again before topping off the bottle with alcohol or witch hazel. Secure the spray nozzle and shake one final time.

If you are creating a roll-on cologne, you will need a 10ml roller bottle, essential oils, and a carrier oil such as fractionated coconut oil, which has little to no scent. Add your essential oils to the roller bottle and shake well before filling the rest of the bottle with your carrier oil of choice. Secure the lid and shake again.

It is important to note that using alcohol as your diluent can dry out the skin when used frequently. Additionally, if you are looking to extend the shelf life of your cologne, consider using an antioxidant like a vitamin E antioxidant or rosemary antioxidant if you choose to dilute with water.

Experiment with ratios

When creating a cologne, it's important to understand the fragrance scale and the different notes. The top notes are the first thing you will smell, followed by the middle notes, and finally, the base notes which form the foundation of the fragrance.

When experimenting with ratios, it's a good idea to start with a standard blending ratio as a base and then adjust to your preference. A typical ratio for colognes is 20% top notes, 30% heart/middle notes, and 50% base notes. However, you can also try the pyramid accord, a ratio recommended by chemist Matthew Milèo, which consists of 60% base notes, 30% middle notes, and 10% top notes.

Another perfumer, Carina Chaz, suggests a different ratio of 20% base, 50% middle, and 30% top notes. Ultimately, it's up to you to experiment and find the formula that works best for the type of profile you're trying to create.

When blending essential oils, it's important to remember that not all notes go together, so it's crucial to test and adjust your blend until you achieve the desired result. It's recommended to use no more than 30 drops total, and if one scent is much stronger than the rest, use less of it.

Once you've created your blend, it's important to let it sit for a few days or even weeks to allow the constituents within the oils to interact and the aroma to develop and round out.

• 4 drops of wild orange (top note), 6 drops of sandalwood (middle note), and 10 drops of frankincense (base note)
• 3 drops of lemon (top note), 4 drops each of cardamom and ylang-ylang (middle notes), and 6 drops of vetiver (base note)
• 3 drops each of lemongrass (top note) and basil (middle note), 4 drops of cedarwood (base note), and 6 drops of Douglas fir (base note)
• 2 drops of bergamot (top note), 3 drops of lemon (top note), 6 drops of clove (middle note), and 8 drops of white fir (base note)
• 4 drops of lemongrass (top note), 6 drops of copaiba (middle note), and 8 drops of frankincense (base note)

Let the blend mature

Allowing your cologne blend to mature is a crucial step in the perfume-making process. This process involves letting the blend sit and develop over time, which can enhance the depth and complexity of the fragrance. The longer you let it mature, the smoother and more pleasant it becomes. Here are some detailed instructions on how to do it:

Storing the Cologne:

It is recommended to store your cologne blend in a cool, dry, and dark place, such as a cellar or wardrobe, to prevent the breakdown of the fragrance. Avoid exposing it to direct sunlight, heat, or extreme temperatures. The ideal temperature range is between 60-65°F (15-20°C), and a humidity level of around 70%. You can also use a decorative box or case to protect the bottle from light and air.

Time Needed for Maturation:

The maturation period can vary depending on the specific blend and desired outcome. It typically takes a few weeks to a few months, with some blends maturing for even longer periods. During this time, the volatile top notes lose intensity, while the heart and base notes become more prominent. The longer maturation time allows the various aromatic compounds to blend perfectly, creating a unique and harmonious scent.

Shaking the Bottle:

It is advisable to shake the bottle once every few days during the maturation process. This helps to ensure that the different ingredients mix well and interact with each other.

Adding Water:

After the maturation period, it is common to add a small amount of water (about 5-10% of the total volume) to your cologne. This helps to mellow out the strength of the alcohol and create a more balanced final product.

Checking the Fragrance:

Throughout the maturation process, it is important to periodically check the fragrance to ensure it is maturing as intended. Assess the colour, scent, and flavour profile at regular intervals. This allows you to make any necessary adjustments and ensures that the maturation process is on track.

Using Oak Barrels:

One effective method for maturing cologne is to use oak barrels. Oak barrels are porous, allowing a small amount of air to interact with the liquid inside. This interaction contributes to the development of a rich, deep flavour and aroma profile, making it a sought-after technique in the fragrance industry.

Type of Alcohol:

The type of alcohol used can impact the maturation process. High-quality alcohol, such as grain alcohol or grape ethanol, allows for a smoother and more refined aging process, resulting in a more complex scent profile. Cheap alcohol may result in an unpleasant smell, so using the best ingredients is crucial.

Remember, the maturation process requires patience and attention to detail. By following these steps, you will create a unique, complex, and well-rounded cologne blend that is truly worthy of admiration.

Frequently asked questions