Antonio Mcgowan
The world of vintage perfumes is a fascinating one, with a rich history dating back thousands of years. While the term vintage is often loosely defined in the perfume industry, it generally refers to older formulations of perfumes that have undergone reformulations over the years. The attraction for collectors lies in experiencing the original scent, as famous perfumes change over time due to ingredient restrictions and cost-saving measures. With some research, collectors can uncover the age of a vintage perfume bottle, and even revive its fragrance. However, the risks of buying vintage perfumes include spoilage and skin reactions to old ingredients. Nevertheless, the allure of vintage perfumes remains strong, with a dedicated market for collectors willing to pay good money for a whiff of the past.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Minimum age | 10 years, 25 years, or 30 years |
| Bottle markings | "Made in Occupied Japan" (bottles from September 1945 to April 1952), lot numbers, bottle shape numbers, patent numbers, batch codes |
| Bottle features | Enameled lettering, etched matching numbers on the base of the bottle and bottom of the stopper, stamped name and origin |
| Scent | Darkened colour, thick syrupy texture, strong smell of essential oils and aroma chemicals |
| Safety | Safe if the perfume hasn't "turned" and your skin tolerates natural ingredients |
| Value | Valuable if it's a special old batch, highly sought-after, or discontinued |
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What You'll Learn
Vintage perfumes are generally older than 10 years
The world of perfumes is fascinating, with a rich history dating back millennia. When it comes to vintage perfumes, the definition is quite flexible. Generally, a perfume that is older than ten years is considered vintage. However, some people have different opinions on what constitutes a "vintage" fragrance. Some collectors seek out vintage perfumes to discover how older scents smelled, which is essential for creating new perfumes. The allure of vintage perfumes also lies in the fact that famous perfume formulas change over time due to ingredient restrictions and bans.
Vintage perfumes are often associated with older formulations that have undergone reformulations over the years. While the term "vintage" typically refers to the specific age of grapes used in winemaking or the year of production, it takes on a slightly different meaning in the context of perfumes. It's important to note that the definition of "vintage" in perfumery is not as clear-cut as in other fields, and there is some subjectivity involved.
Some sources suggest that a perfume needs to be at least 25 years old to be considered a "classic" and at least 30 years old to be truly vintage. Others view perfumes from the 1980s and earlier as vintage, while considering the 1990s as too recent. The term "vintage" is also used to describe pre-reformulation or original releases of perfumes. It's worth noting that the International Fragrance Association (IFRA) has banned or restricted certain ingredients in perfumes, such as oakmoss and specific musks, which has led to changes in formulas over time.
Collecting vintage perfumes can be a captivating hobby, and there is a dedicated market for enthusiasts willing to pay good money for discontinued or reformulated fragrances. However, it's important to approach the purchase of vintage perfumes with caution. Factors such as heat, light, and poor storage conditions can cause the alcohol and water content in perfumes to evaporate, altering the scent and texture. When buying vintage perfumes, it's advisable to do your research, compare prices, and be wary of deals that seem too good to be true.
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The term 'vintage' is used loosely in the perfume world
The term "vintage" is used loosely in the perfume world, with no specific age or clear definition. While some sources state that a perfume must be at least 25 years old to be considered a "classic" and at least 30 years old to be vintage, others disagree. Some people consider perfumes from the 1980s and earlier to be vintage, while others believe that a perfume over 10 years old can be classified as such. Ultimately, the term "vintage" in the context of perfume often refers to pre-reformulation or an original release, indicating that the fragrance has been changed or updated in some way.
The definition of "vintage" is further complicated by the fact that perfumes can be discontinued or reformulated, which can increase their value and desirability among collectors. For example, a perfume that has been discontinued or reformulated may be considered vintage even if it is not particularly old. Additionally, the term "vintage" can be used to describe a fragrance that has been in high demand, especially if it evokes a sense of nostalgia.
The age of a perfume can be determined by various factors, such as the bottle design, labels, and the presence of lot numbers, bottle shape numbers, or patent numbers. Older bottles from the 1930s to the 1940s often had this information embossed directly into the glass base. By the 1970s, cosmetic companies began stamping coloured batch codes onto their products, indicating the year and month of production.
The formula for perfumes also changes over time due to the banning or restriction of certain ingredients by regulatory bodies like the International Fragrance Association (IFRA). As a result, vintage perfumes may contain ingredients that are no longer considered safe, such as oakmoss and certain types of musk. These ingredients can cause allergies and other unwanted skin reactions, so it is important to exercise caution when using vintage perfumes.
The value of vintage perfumes and their bottles can vary. While old and discontinued perfumes can be valuable to collectors, their age and rarity do not always guarantee high value. Popular online platforms for purchasing vintage perfumes include eBay and Facebook groups, where collectors can find a wide variety of options and interact with other enthusiasts.
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Perfumes can be dated by looking at their bottle
While the term "vintage" is quite loosely defined in the perfume world, generally, a perfume that is older than 10 years is considered vintage. However, some sources suggest that a perfume has to be at least 25 years old to be a classic and at least 30 years old to be vintage.
Old glass perfume bottles might have etched matching numbers on the base of the bottle and on the bottom of the stopper. This was done at the factory when the stopper would be ground to fit the bottle, and the numbers show which bottle goes with the right stopper. Older bottles from the 1930s and 1940s would have lot numbers, bottle shape numbers, or patent numbers embossed right into the glass base. By 1970, cosmetic companies were stamping coloured numbers on the bottom of their products, which were used as "batch codes" to indicate the year and month of production.
Bottles embossed with or having labels marked “Made in Occupied Japan” were made from September 1945 until April 1952. Enameled lettering, also known as serigraphy (instead of labels), on glass bottles started being used after the 1930s and was a pretty regular feature in the 1940s onward. This lettering is fragile and can be easily lost with cleaning.
Vintage perfumes will start to darken over time, and the oldest perfumes have a very dark, thick, syrupy texture due to the alcohol and water evaporating, leaving only a high concentration of essential oils and aroma chemicals. If you still wish to wear the perfume, it can be revived with some perfumer’s alcohol.
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Perfumes are reformulated over time
Perfumes are reformulated for a variety of reasons. One of the most common reasons is to comply with regulations. The fragrance industry is highly regulated, with organisations such as the IFRA and the EU constantly updating their rules and regulations to ensure that products are allergen-free and safe for consumers. For example, ingredients like oakmoss and musk, commonly used in vintage perfumery in the '70s and '80s, have been restricted or banned due to their potential to cause allergies and other skin reactions.
Another reason for reformulation is the availability and quality of ingredients. Natural ingredients, which are often central to fragrances, can vary due to weather, soil conditions, and harvesting techniques, affecting the consistency and aroma of the final product. Changes in suppliers or sourcing regions can also impact ingredient availability, necessitating reformulation to maintain quality.
Additionally, consumer preferences and market trends evolve over time. Fragrance preferences, much like fashion, can shift, prompting perfumers to adjust their offerings to stay relevant.
Furthermore, advancements in technology and the discovery of new ingredients play a role in reformulation. Perfumers incorporate these innovations, leading to the development of more sustainable or cost-effective synthetic ingredients, improved extraction methods, and new fragrance accords.
Finally, some companies may choose to reformulate their perfumes to maintain the essence of the fragrance over time. As certain ingredients become scarce or unsustainable, they may be replaced with synthetic alternatives to preserve the overall character of the scent.
While reformulation can sometimes be met with disappointment from loyal customers, it is a necessary step to ensure perfumes remain safe, effective, and appealing to modern consumers.
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Vintage perfumes are sought-after by collectors
The term "vintage" is quite loosely defined in the perfume world. Generally, a perfume that is older than 10 years is considered vintage. However, some people believe that a perfume needs to be at least 25 years old to be a classic and at least 30 years old to be vintage. Others believe that vintage refers to anything from the 1980s or before.
Vintage perfumes can also hold monetary value, with some collectors willing to pay good money for old scents that have been discontinued or reformulated. For instance, a bottle of Shocking by Italian fashion designer Elsa Schiaparelli in its original 1930s mannequin-shaped bottle can be worth up to £1,000. Bottles of Chanel No 5 from the 1950s are also highly prized. Additionally, collectors may be interested in any pre-2000 recognisable brands as it was around this time that several EU restrictions came into effect, causing many perfumes to be reformulated.
Collectors may also seek out vintage perfumes as a way to connect with the past and experience fragrances from a different era. They may be intrigued by the history and evolution of perfumery and the changes in trends and ingredients over time. Some collectors, like self-taught perfumer and vintage scent collector Sarah McCartney, may even use vintage perfumes as a reference for creating new fragrances.
Lastly, the rarity and exclusivity of vintage perfumes can make them desirable to collectors. With discontinued or limited-edition fragrances, there is a sense of owning something unique and special. The thrill of the hunt for that rare bottle can also be part of the appeal for collectors, scouring car boot sales, junk shops, and old chemist shops for hidden gems.
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Frequently asked questions
Generally, a perfume that is older than 10 years is considered vintage. However, some people believe that a perfume has to be at least 25 years old to be a classic, and at least 30 years old to be vintage.
There are a few ways to determine the age of your vintage perfume. Firstly, you can look for clues such as labels, embossing, lot numbers, bottle shapes, patent numbers, or batch codes. Bottles with labels marked "Made in Occupied Japan" were made from September 1945 until April 1952. Enameled lettering on glass bottles became common in the 1930s and 1940s. Patent dates were frequently found on the base of bottles in the 1930s and 1940s. By 1970, cosmetic companies were stamping coloured batch codes onto the bottom of their products. You can also compare your bottle to vintage advertisements in old magazines, as these often include dates.
Vintage perfumes are often collected by people who are interested in experiencing older scents, especially those that have been discontinued or reformulated. Some collectors are perfumers themselves, who want to learn about the history of scent to create new fragrances. Others are interested in the nostalgic value of vintage perfumes.
Buying vintage perfume can be a gamble, as the fragrance may have spoiled due to poor storage conditions or the presence of heat, light, oxygen, or extraneous organic materials. However, if the perfume has not "turned" and the ingredients are tolerated by your skin, it is generally safe to use.
