Anisha Riggs
The 1920s was a time of change and prosperity, with the emergence of flapper fashion, jazz clubs, and the growing use of automobiles, electricity, and telephones. It was also a decade that witnessed the rise of iconic perfumes that are still cherished today. Chanel No. 5, created by Ernest Beaux for Coco Chanel, debuted in 1921 and became an enduring symbol of this era. With its blend of jasmine, rose, vanilla, and aldehydes, it captivated women seeking to express their newfound self-confidence through scent. Guerlain's Shalimar, another fragrance from the 1920s, enchanted wearers with its fusion of vanilla, bergamot, and oriental notes. While the exact prices of these perfumes in the 1920s are not readily available, Chanel No. 5's popularity was such that it could be found absolutely everywhere. The impact of these perfumes extended beyond the mere scent, as they became symbols of luxury and positivity during a time of economic hardship following the Wall Street crash in 1929.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Chanel No. 5 cost in 1920 | £14.50 for five |
| Chanel No. 5 launch year | 1921 |
| Shalimar by Guerlain launch year | 1925 |
| Average selling price for a 1920s perfume bottle | $1,750 |
| Highest price for a 1920s perfume bottle | $10,598 |
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$39.88 $46.91
What You'll Learn
- Chanel No. 5 cost £14.50 for five in 1920
- Shalimar by Guerlain, released in 1925, was rich in vanilla and bergamot
- Lanvin's Arpege, released in 1927, was inspired by a mother dressing her daughter
- Chanel No. 5 was marketed by spraying it around a table in a restaurant
- Working women in the 1920s expressed their self-confidence through perfume
Chanel No. 5 cost £14.50 for five in 1920
Chanel No. 5 was first introduced in the 1920s and cost £14.50 for five in 1920. The perfume was created by Coco Chanel, who wanted to develop a distinctly modern fragrance. Chanel's lover at the time, Grand Duke Dmitri Pavlovich Romanov of Russia, introduced her to Grasse-based master perfumer Ernest Beaux. Chanel and Beaux worked together to create the scent, with Chanel eventually choosing the fifth vial of perfume from a selection of samples.
Beaux had been the perfumer to the Russian imperial family and was employed at A. Rallet and Company since 1898. He perfected Chanel No. 5 over several months in 1920, working from the rose and jasmine base of Rallet N°1. He added modern synthetics, including his own invention, "Rose E.B.", and notes derived from a new jasmine source called Jasophore. The formula also increased the quantities of orris root, iris root, and natural musks.
Chanel No. 5 was marketed and distributed by Parfums Chanel, which was established in 1924. The first ad for the perfume appeared in The New York Times on December 16, 1924, and it was sold at upscale department stores like Bonwit Teller. Chanel No. 5 became a classic fragrance, with its success attributed to both its unique scent and Chanel's savvy marketing strategies.
The price of Chanel No. 5 in the 1940s ranged from $2.75 to $25.50, with the price increasing over time. The cost of French perfumes rose by 50% due to the increased demand for perfumery materials and bottles. Chanel No. 5 continued to be a popular fragrance, with its price reflecting its perceived value and exclusivity.
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Shalimar by Guerlain, released in 1925, was rich in vanilla and bergamot
Guerlain's Shalimar was an Oriental fragrance for women, with top notes of citrus bergamot and floral notes, middle notes of iris, rose, jasmine, and base notes of vanilla and tonka bean. The vanilla and resins were rich and rounded, with a slightly smoky feeling, like sandalwood. The bergamot opening notes contrasted with the darker notes, giving the fragrance a fun and juicy character. The perfume was described as "an evening gown with an outrageously plunging neckline".
The 1920s were glory days for perfumery globally, with several classics being created during this time. Working women had developed a new self-confidence, and they expressed it through perfume, flapper dresses, and cigarette-smoking. Chanel No. 5, for example, cost £14.50 for five in 1920. Shalimar by Guerlain, with its rich vanilla and bergamot notes, was another blockbuster of the time.
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Lanvin's Arpege, released in 1927, was inspired by a mother dressing her daughter
The 1920s saw a time of intense creativity in the world of perfumery, with classics such as Chanel No. 5 being created during this time. Working women with a new-found self-confidence wanted to express themselves through perfume, and one such fragrance that was released during this time was Lanvin's Arpege.
Arpege, a fragrance for women, was launched in 1927 and was created by Paul Vacher and Andre Fraysse. The perfume features top notes of aldehydes, lily-of-the-valley, peach, honeysuckle, neroli and bergamot; middle notes of jasmine, ylang-ylang, lily-of-the-valley, iris, coriander, rose, lily, geranium and camellia; and base notes of sandalwood, amber, vetiver, musk, benzoin, vanilla and patchouli.
The inspiration behind this scent was Jeanne Lanvin's daughter, Marguerite, who was born in 1897. Marguerite became her mother's muse, and Lanvin started making clothing for her, eventually leading to the establishment of a children's clothing line in 1908. Arpege was conceived to celebrate Marguerite's 30th birthday, and she was consulted on the scent's concept. The perfume's name, chosen by Marguerite herself, comes from the musical term 'arpeggio', a chord in which the notes are played out separately in sequence, instead of all together. The original 1927 formula corresponded to this musical term, with the notes of the perfume playing their theme alternately.
The spherical black-and-gold bottle, designed by Paul Iribe, features a silhouette of a mother dressing her daughter, inspired by Lanvin and Marguerite. The house's famous logo, featuring a mother and daughter, first appeared on the brand's fragrances and is still used today. The bottle also came in a rectangular shape, created by Armand-Albert Rateau.
In the 1920s, Chanel No. 5 cost £14.50 for five.
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Chanel No. 5 was marketed by spraying it around a table in a restaurant
Chanel No. 5, the first perfume launched by French couturier Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel, was created by Ernest Beaux in 1921. Chanel No. 5 was originally launched in three concentrations: Parfum, Eau de Toilette, and Eau de Cologne. The scent formula for the fragrance was compounded by French-Russian chemist and perfumer Ernest Beaux, who was the perfumer darling of the Russian royal family. Chanel No. 5 is often regarded as the "queen of all feminine fragrances" and is considered a pioneer in modern perfumery. The success of Chanel No. 5 is attributed not only to its scent but also to Chanel's savvy marketing strategies.
One of the most famous marketing strategies for Chanel No. 5 involved spraying it around a table in a restaurant. Chanel invited a group of friends, including Ernest Beaux, to dinner in a restaurant on the Riviera and sprayed the perfume around the table. Every woman who walked by stopped to inquire about the fragrance, captivated by its scent. This marketing tactic showcased the power of Chanel No. 5's allure and helped establish it as a classic fragrance that continues to be revered today.
Chanel No. 5's iconic status was further solidified by its innovative use of aldehydes, creating a unique and abstract fragrance. The aldehyde opening, combined with ylang-ylang, settles into notes of powdery iris and vanilla, resulting in a smooth and bright scent. The abstract nature of the perfume, with no dominant note, added to its allure and made it stand out from traditional floral perfumes.
The branding and design of Chanel No. 5 also played a crucial role in its success. The bottle's sleek and timeless design has become instantly recognizable and is an integral part of the product's branding. Additionally, Chanel herself was the first face of the fragrance, appearing in advertisements published by Harper's Bazaar in 1937.
The marketing of Chanel No. 5 extended beyond the famous restaurant stunt. During World War II, Chanel No. 5 was sold at military post exchanges, becoming a coveted souvenir for soldiers to bring back to their sweethearts. In the 1960s, glossy magazines such as Vogue and Bazaar presented Chanel No. 5 as a must-have accessory, further enhancing its reputation. By the mid-1940s, worldwide sales of Chanel No. 5 had reached nine million dollars annually, solidifying its place as a timeless and iconic fragrance.
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Working women in the 1920s expressed their self-confidence through perfume
The 1920s was a decade of significant change for women, who had recently gained the right to vote in the US and were increasingly entering the workforce. This new social and economic freedom led to a shift in beauty and fashion trends, with women embracing bold new styles that challenged conventional norms. Perfume played a pivotal role in this transformation, becoming a powerful tool for self-expression and a symbol of modern femininity.
As more women entered the workforce in the 1920s, they gained financial independence and a sense of self-confidence. They were eager to spend their money on luxury items that had previously been out of reach, including perfume. The fragrance industry responded to this new market demand, creating and marketing scents specifically tailored to the modern woman's taste.
One of the most iconic fragrances of the 1920s was Chanel No. 5, created by designer Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel in collaboration with perfumer Ernest Beaux. Chanel, a savvy businesswoman, understood the power of perfume as a form of self-expression. She wanted to create a scent that embodied the spirit of the modern woman: bold, independent, and sensual. Chanel No. 5, with its aldehyde rush and notes of jasmine, rose, vanilla, and sandalwood, became an instant classic. Its success was due not only to its unique scent but also to Chanel's clever marketing strategies, such as spraying the perfume in a restaurant to capture the attention of passersby.
The success of Chanel No. 5 and other fragrances of the time, such as Guerlain's Shalimar and Lanvin's Arpège, reflected a broader shift in societal attitudes. Working women in the 1920s embraced perfume as a way to assert their independence, defy social conventions, and express their unique personalities. They were no longer content to conform to traditional gender roles and instead sought to showcase their confidence and individuality through their choice of scent.
The 1920s also witnessed a democratization of the perfume industry, with the development of synthetic scents and new scent extraction technologies. These innovations made perfumes more affordable and accessible to a wider range of consumers. Frenchman François Coty disrupted the market by employing jewellery designer René Lalique to create exquisite perfume bottles, leading consumers to value the packaging as much as the fragrance itself. This shift in consumer behaviour contributed to the growing popularity of perfume as a must-have accessory for working women in the 1920s.
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Frequently asked questions
Chanel No. 5 cost £14.50 for five bottles in 1920.
Chanel No. 5 was launched in 1921 and became popular due to its scent and Chanel's marketing strategies. It had notes of jasmine, rose, vanilla, and sandalwood.
Yes, Guerlain's Shalimar, Lanvin's Arpege, Molinard Habanita, and Coty L'Aimant were some of the popular perfumes in the 1920s.
Aldehydes were trendy in fragrances in the 1920s. Synthetic vanillin was also a popular ingredient.
The 1920s was a time of change and prosperity. Women were earning their own income and celebrating their newfound liberation by indulging in luxurious perfumes. Perfumes offered positivity and hope during tough times.
