Katrina Rosales
Ambergris, a rare ingredient that comes from sperm whales, has been used in perfumes for hundreds of years. It is a highly valued fixative that allows a scent to last longer, and its fragrance has been described as marine, animalic, and sweet. While natural ambergris is considered one of the most valuable raw materials in perfumery, its use has declined due to ethical and environmental concerns, with many countries banning its trade. Today, most perfumes use a synthetic version of ambergris, but some notable fragrances that feature the real thing include Soleil de Jeddah, Rosendo Mateu #5, Baccarat Rouge 540, and Ambre Supreme.
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What You'll Learn
History of ambergris in perfumes
Ambergris, a rare and valuable ingredient in perfumery, has been used in perfumes for hundreds of years. It is a waxy substance produced in the digestive system of sperm whales, which they excrete to protect themselves from sharp objects they may have ingested. It is sometimes referred to as
Freshly produced ambergris has a strong manure or marine, fecal odour, which most people would find unpleasant. However, as it ages and floats in the ocean, it develops a sweet, earthy scent. It can take 20-30 years for ambergris to mature, and the longer it floats in the ocean, the more desirable it becomes. The colour of ambergris also changes over time, from a pale white or black colour to a dark grey or black.
Ambergris has been used in perfumery for its ability to act as a fixative, enhancing the staying power of a fragrance by anchoring more volatile ingredients. It is also known for its unique, animal-like essence, which can transform a perfume into a captivating, mesmerising experience.
Some perfumes that use ambergris include Soleil de Jeddah, Rosendo Mateu #5, Baccarat Rouge 540, and Ambre Supreme.
Due to the rarity and high value of ambergris, as well as ethical and environmental concerns, many perfumes now use a synthetic version of ambergris, known as ambroxide. However, perfumes containing real ambergris still exist, and it remains a treasured ingredient in the perfume industry.
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Ambergris alternatives
Ambergris is a rare ingredient in perfumery, and its use has declined over time due to its scarcity and the endangerment of sperm whales, the only source of the substance. While some perfumes still use real ambergris, many now opt for synthetic alternatives due to ethical and environmental concerns.
One such alternative is Ambroxide, also known as Ambroxan, a chemical derived from the bark of the Styrax tree family. It is a suitable replacement for ambergris as a fixative, helping perfumes last longer on the skin. However, it does not meet all the criteria for being vegan, cruelty-free, and natural.
Another natural alternative to ambergris is Ambrette, also known as musk mallow or musk okra. It is the seed of a hibiscus flower with a heavy, musky scent and subtle floral undertones. Ambrette is also known for its medicinal properties, such as improving blood circulation and relieving aches.
For those seeking to replicate the salty, fatty, and animalic aspects of ambergris, there are synthetic options available, such as Ambroxan, Ambrinol, Ambergris Essence, and Cetalox. These alternatives vary in their intensity and stereoisomers, with Ambroxan being the most expensive option.
Additionally, natural ingredients like cistus oil and labdanum, when diluted in very small quantities, can create an effect similar to ambergris. These alternatives offer perfumers and fragrance enthusiasts options that are more accessible, sustainable, and ethically sound than the traditional use of ambergris.
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Ambergris quality
Ambergris is a highly valued ingredient in perfumery, but due to its rarity, most perfumes now use a synthetic alternative. The quality of ambergris depends on several factors, including its texture, colour, and fragrance.
The lowest quality of ambergris is soft and black with a strong manure odour. This type of ambergris is often referred to as "Black Ambergris" and has a fragrance that is typically considered offensive. It is usually very hard, firm, or soft, with a rough and heavy fragrance.
Standard-quality ambergris is brown, grey, or ash in colour. It has a stronger fragrance than high-quality ambergris but is still considered pleasant. Pieces of standard-quality ambergris can be larger and often have visible layers.
High-quality ambergris, also known as "White/Grey Ambergris", has a white or partially white coating and a light interior colour. These pieces are usually smaller as they have been in the ocean for a longer time. The fragrance of high-quality ambergris is sweet and subtle, and it is highly prized for its ability to create long-lasting perfumes.
The quality of ambergris also depends on its age. Ambergris can float in the ocean for many years, and the longer it stays in the ocean, the better its quality. The age of ambergris cannot be determined by its appearance alone but by factors such as the thickness of its white exterior coating, its interior colour, and its fragrance.
The use of ambergris in perfumery has a long history, with ancient civilisations such as the Ancient Egyptians and people from the Middle East using it in perfumes and medicines. Today, ambergris is still used in some perfumes, but its high value and rarity have led to the widespread use of synthetic alternatives.
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Ambergris supply
Ambergris is a rare ingredient in perfumes, and its supply is limited due to a variety of factors. Firstly, ambergris is a natural substance produced by only about one percent of sperm whales. It is formed in the whale's intestines when it eats sharp objects, protecting itself from harm. This ambergris is then excreted by the whale and can be found floating in the ocean or washed up on coastlines. However, finding ambergris is challenging as it can take 20-30 years for it to mature and develop its characteristic sweet smell. Even then, its appearance can vary, making identification difficult.
The limited supply of natural ambergris has led to the development of a synthetic alternative, known as ambroxide. This alternative is now commonly used in perfumes instead of natural ambergris due to ethical and environmental concerns. However, natural ambergris is still prized by perfumers and is considered one of the most valuable raw materials in the industry. Its value is reflected in its price; for example, a 127 kg piece of ambergris found off the coast of Yemen in 2021 was valued at US$1.5 million.
The rarity and value of ambergris have also led to the development of a global trade network. Companies such as Ambergris Hunter and Ambergris Connect source ambergris from beaches across regions like the Horn of Africa, the Caribbean, Asia, and New Zealand. They offer different grades of ambergris, with white ambergris being the highest quality and most expensive due to its delicate, sweet scent. These companies work with hunters and suppliers worldwide and provide testing services to ensure the authenticity and quality of the ambergris they trade.
While the natural production and supply of ambergris are limited, the demand for it in perfumery remains high. This demand has driven the creation of synthetic alternatives and global trade networks to source natural ambergris. Despite the challenges, ambergris continues to be a treasured ingredient in the world of perfumery.
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Ambergris bans
Ambergris is a highly valued ingredient in perfumery. It is a rare substance produced only by an estimated one per cent of sperm whales. It is passed like faecal matter and can be found floating in the sea or washed up on coastlines. It is sometimes found in the abdomens of dead sperm whales.
Despite its value, the use of ambergris is controversial. Whaling has long been a threat to the survival of the species. In 1982, the International Whaling Commission instituted a moratorium on commercial whaling. Many countries also ban the trade of ambergris as part of a more general ban on the hunting and exploitation of whales.
In Australia, the export and import of ambergris for commercial purposes are banned under the Environment Protection and Biodiversity Conservation Act 1999. The various states and territories have additional laws regarding ambergris. In the United States, the possession and trade of ambergris are prohibited by the Endangered Species Act of 1973. However, the legality of possessing ambergris in the US is murky. While it appears that possessing ambergris is illegal, it is also approved for food use. Ambergris tincture is listed as "generally recognised as safe" for food additives.
In India, the sale or possession of ambergris is illegal under the Wild Life (Protection) Act, 1972. In the EU, the hunting and trading of cetaceans such as whales is banned.
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Frequently asked questions
Ambergris is a rare ingredient used in perfumery that comes from sperm whales. It is formed in the bile duct in the intestines of the whale and is passed like faecal matter. It is sometimes found in the abdomens of dead sperm whales.
The smell of ambergris varies depending on its quality. Lower-quality ambergris has a strong "manure" odour, while higher-quality ambergris has a light, subtle, and sweet odour. In perfumes, ambergris is described as having a marine, animalic, and sweet fragrance.
Ambergris is a highly valued fixative in perfumery, meaning it allows the scent to last longer on the skin. It is also known for its unique, deep, and mesmerizing scent, adding a captivating element to perfumes.
Yes, there are ethical and environmental concerns surrounding the use of natural ambergris due to its origin from sperm whales. Many countries ban the trade of ambergris as part of a general ban on the hunting and exploitation of whales. As a result, synthetic alternatives are often used in perfumes.
Several perfumes are known to use ambergris, including Soleil de Jeddah, Rosendo Mateu #5, Baccarat Rouge 540, Ambre Supreme, and Spell.
