Seamus Hammond
Guerlain is a French perfume house founded in 1828 by Pierre-François Pascal Guerlain, a perfumer, chemist, and inventor. The Guerlain family owned and managed the business until 1994 when it was sold to LVMH, a French multinational company. Over its nearly two-century history, Guerlain has had several notable perfumers who have created iconic fragrances. The first was the founder, Pierre-François, followed by his son, Aimé Guerlain, who is considered the father of modern perfumery. Jacques Guerlain, Aimé's nephew, became Guerlain's third master perfumer and created many classics, including the flagship fragrance Shalimar. Jean-Paul Guerlain, Jacques' grandson, was the last family master perfumer, retiring in 2002. After the sale of the company to LVMH, other perfumers were brought on board, including Thierry Wasser, who became the official in-house perfumer in 2008, and Delphine Jelk, who joined the House in 2014.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Founder and first perfumer | Pierre-François Pascal Guerlain |
| Second perfumer | Aimé Guerlain |
| Third perfumer | Jacques Guerlain |
| Fourth perfumer | Jean-Paul Guerlain |
| Fifth perfumer | Thierry Wasser |
| Sixth perfumer | Delphine Jelk |
| Other perfumers | Mathilde Laurent, Olivier Cresp, Sophie Labbe, Sylvaine Delacourte, Randa Hammami, Christophe Raynaud, Frank Voelkl, Aurélien Guichard, Marie Salamagne, Karine Dubreuil-Sereni, Maurice Roucel, Sonia Constant, Christine Nagel, Daniela Andrier, Annick Menardo, Olivier Polge, Francis Kurkdjian, Beatrice Piquet |
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What You'll Learn
Pierre-François Pascal Guerlain: founder and first perfumer
Pierre-François Pascal Guerlain was the founder and first perfumer of Guerlain, one of the oldest perfume houses in the world. Born in 1798, he left home at 19 and began working as a merchant for the perfume manufacturer Briard. He then worked for Dissey and Piver, further developing his knowledge of perfumery. He studied medicine and chemistry in England, familiarising himself with molecules, botanical secrets, proportions, and compositions.
In 1828, Guerlain opened his first perfume store at 42 Rue de Rivoli in Paris, selling custom fragrances, vinegars, scented soaps, and cosmetic products. He imported popular products from England, such as Gowland's Lotion and Royal Extract of Flowers, which became the preferred perfume of Queen Victoria. He also set up his laboratory and factory in Paris, where he created his first fragrances, including Senteur des Champs, Esprit de Fleurs, and Bouquet du Roi d'Angleterre.
By 1840, Guerlain had opened a flagship store at 15 Rue de la Paix, attracting high society Parisians as clients. His most famous patrons were French Emperor Napoleon III and Empress Eugénie, for whom he created the Eau de Cologne Impériale in 1853. This earned him the prestigious title of His Majesty's Official Perfumer. He also created perfumes for Queen Victoria of the United Kingdom and Queen Isabella II of Spain, among other royalty.
With his success, Guerlain's fragrances and cosmetics became sought-after by European royalty. After his death in 1864, the business passed to his sons, Aimé Guerlain and Gabriel Guerlain, who continued the family legacy of creating renowned perfumes.
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Aimé Guerlain: second-generation in-house perfumer
The House of Guerlain was founded in Paris in 1828 by Pierre-François Pascal Guerlain, who composed fragrances with the help of his two sons, Aimé Guerlain and Gabriel Guerlain. Aimé Guerlain, the second-generation in-house perfumer, took over the creative side of the business after his father's death in 1864. Aimé is known for using synthetic ingredients to enhance natural ingredients, creating complex and enduring fragrances. He is credited with creating many classic compositions, including Fleur d'Italie (1884), Rococo (1887), and Eau de Cologne du Coq (1894). Aimé's most famous creation, however, is considered to be Jicky (1889), which was the first fragrance described as a "parfum" and among the first to use synthetic ingredients alongside natural extracts. Jicky also included the recognisable 'Guerlinade', a secret accord of notes that characterised Guerlain fragrances.
Aimé Guerlain's use of synthetic ingredients to enhance natural ingredients set a new standard for perfumery and distinguished Guerlain as a house of absolute luxury. He was a genius of perfumery, leaving an enduring mark not only on fragrances but also on cosmetics. For example, he created "Ne m'oubliez pas" in 1870, the first refillable lipstick, a gesture that has now become universal. Aimé's passion for equestrianism also inspired new fragrances, and his influence continues to be felt in the House of Guerlain.
Aimé Guerlain was succeeded by his nephew, Jacques Guerlain, who became Guerlain's third master perfumer. Jacques created many of Guerlain's most famous classics, including Mouchoir de Monsieur (1904), Après L'Ondée (1906), L'Heure Bleue (1912), and the flagship fragrance Shalimar (1925). Jacques composed his final perfume, Ode (1955), with the assistance of his grandson, Jean-Paul Guerlain, who became the last family master perfumer. Jean-Paul created classic men's fragrances such as Vétiver (1959) and Habit Rouge (1965), as well as fragrances for women like Chamade (1969) and Samsara (1989).
In 1994, the Guerlain family sold the company to the luxury goods conglomerate LVMH, marking the end of the family legacy. Jean-Paul Guerlain remained as an in-house perfumer until his retirement in 2002, but other perfumers were brought in, and he had to submit his compositions competitively. The current perfumers for Guerlain are Thierry Wasser and Delphine Jelk, with Thierry being the first non-family 'nose' in the history of the house.
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Jacques Guerlain: third master perfumer and creator of Shalimar
The House of Guerlain was founded in Paris in 1828 by Pierre-François Pascal Guerlain, marking the beginning of a legendary dynasty of perfumers. After Pierre-François' death in 1864, his son Aimé Guerlain took over as the second master perfumer. Aimé's nephew, Jacques Guerlain, became Guerlain's third master perfumer in 1890.
Jacques Guerlain was a prolific creator and is responsible for Guerlinade, the House's signature fragrance since 1921. Among his most notable creations are L'Heure Bleue (1912), Mitsouko (1919), and Guerlain's flagship fragrance Shalimar (1925). Shalimar was an ode to the legendary love story between Emperor Shahjahan and his wife, Mumtaz Mahal. It was the first amber perfume and is considered one of the best-selling perfumes of all time. Jacques' other notable perfumes include Mouchoir de Monsieur (1904), Après L'Ondée (1906), and Vol de Nuit (1933).
Jacques composed his final perfume, Ode, in 1955 with the assistance of his grandson, Jean-Paul Guerlain, who became the last family master perfumer. Jean-Paul created classic fragrances such as Vétiver (1959) for men and Nahéma (1979) and Samsara (1989) for women. After Jean-Paul Guerlain retired in 2002, the role of master perfumer was no longer tied to family succession.
Today, a duo of creators, Thierry Wasser and Delphine Jelk, share the reins of Guerlain perfume. Thierry Wasser, the first non-family nose in the history of the House, was appointed Guerlain Master Perfumer in 2008. Delphine Jelk joined the House in 2014 and is known for her warm and inviting compositions.
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Jean-Paul Guerlain: the last family master perfumer
The House of Guerlain was founded in Paris in 1828 by Pierre-François Pascal Guerlain, marking the beginning of a legendary dynasty of perfumers. The Guerlain family has since included several notable perfumers, including Aimé Guerlain, Jacques Guerlain, and Jean-Paul Guerlain.
Jean-Paul Guerlain, the grandson of Jacques Guerlain, was the last family master perfumer. He joined the Guerlain company in 1955 at the age of 18 and began his training in perfumery. Over his illustrious career, he created several classic men's fragrances, including Vétiver (1959) and Habit Rouge (1965). He also crafted iconic perfumes such as Chant d'Arômes (1962) and Chamade (1969).
From 1975 to 1989, Jean-Paul Guerlain collaborated with perfumer Anne-Marie Saget, creating timeless fragrances like Nahema (1979) and Samsara (1989). His later work included Héritage (1992) and Coriolan (1998). Jean-Paul Guerlain's talent extended beyond perfumery to the management of the company, serving as chairman from 1988 to 1996 and contributing significantly to its international expansion.
In 1994, the Guerlain family sold the company to LVMH, marking a break with tradition. Jean-Paul Guerlain continued as an in-house perfumer until his retirement in 2002. Despite the introduction of external perfumers, he remained dedicated to his craft, serving as an advisor to his successor until 2010. Unfortunately, his association with Guerlain ended after he made a racist remark on French television regarding the inspiration for his scent Samsara.
With no heir from within the Guerlain family, the role of master perfumer is no longer tied to family succession. Jean-Paul Guerlain's legacy as the last family master perfumer is a testament to the rich history of the House of Guerlain and the enduring impact of its creators.
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Thierry Wasser: the first non-family perfumer
The House of Guerlain was founded in 1828 by Pierre-François Pascal Guerlain, who was the first of a long line of Guerlain family perfumers. The Guerlain family owned and managed the business from its inception until 1994, when it was sold to the LVMH group.
The Guerlain family produced several legendary perfumers over the course of its management, including Aimé Guerlain, Jacques Guerlain, and Jean-Paul Guerlain. Jean-Paul Guerlain, who retired in 2002, was the last family master perfumer.
Thierry Wasser, who joined Guerlain in 2008, is the first non-family perfumer in the company's history. He is only the fifth in-house perfumer at Guerlain and is known for his unique ability to blend natural and synthetic ingredients, resulting in fragrances that are both timeless and contemporary. Wasser's perfumes include La Petite Robe Noire, Shalimar Parfum Initial, and Aqua Allegoria Mandarine Basilic. He is also known for his focus on sustainability, ensuring a long-term supply of the raw materials that Guerlain fragrances depend on.
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Frequently asked questions
Guerlain has had at least 27 perfume creators in its history.
Pierre-François Pascal Guerlain was the founder and first perfumer of the house.
Aimé Guerlain, the son of Pierre-François Pascal Guerlain, was the second in-house perfumer.
Jacques Guerlain, the nephew of Aimé Guerlain, was Guerlain's third master perfumer.
Jean-Paul Guerlain, the grandson of Jacques Guerlain, was the last family master perfumer.
