Creating Cologne Scents: A Beginner's Guide To Fragrance Making

Creating a unique cologne scent is an art form that can take years to perfect. However, with the right ingredients and a bit of experimentation, anyone can create their own signature scent. The key to making cologne is understanding the different fragrance notes and how to blend them to create a harmonious scent.

Cologne is typically characterised by its lower concentration of essential oils, usually ranging from 2% to 5%, resulting in a lighter fragrance. The scent of cologne generally lasts for around two hours, making it ideal for everyday use.

The first step in creating a cologne is to familiarise yourself with the different fragrance notes. These are divided into three categories: top notes, middle notes, and base notes. Top notes are the initial scent that you smell when you apply the cologne, while middle notes appear as the top notes fade and form the core of the fragrance. Base notes are the foundation of the scent and help to accentuate and fix the middle notes.

When blending your cologne, it is important to use the correct ratios of each note. A common ratio is 30% top notes, 50% middle notes, and 20% base notes. However, you may need to experiment to find the perfect ratio for your desired scent.

In addition to fragrance notes, you will also need a carrier for your cologne. Common choices include alcohol, such as vodka, or oil, such as jojoba or almond oil. You will also need a glass bottle to store your cologne and a dropper or measuring spoon for measuring out the ingredients.

Once you have gathered your ingredients and materials, the next step is to choose your essential oils or other aromatics. You can use a variety of ingredients, including essential oils, flower petals, leaves, and herbs. If using essential oils, common top notes include bergamot, grapefruit, and lavender, while popular middle notes include jasmine, rosemary, and cinnamon. For base notes, you may want to consider sandalwood, vanilla, or cedarwood.

After you have selected your scents, it is time to start blending. Add your chosen scents to the carrier, starting with the base notes and working your way up to the top notes. Pay attention to the strength of each scent and adjust the amounts as needed. Once you are happy with the blend, allow it to sit for at least 48 hours so that the scents can mingle and mature.

Finally, you may want to add a preservative such as vitamin E to extend the shelf life of your cologne. Then, pour your cologne into a glass bottle, add a label, and give it a name. And there you have it—your very own unique cologne scent!

Choosing your essential oils

When choosing your essential oils, it's important to understand the fragrance scale. The three types of notes in a fragrance are top, middle, and base.

Top Notes

Top notes are the first thing you smell and disappear within 10-15 minutes. Popular top notes include basil, bergamot, grapefruit, lavender, lemon, lime, mint, neroli, rosemary, and sweet orange.

Middle Notes

Middle notes appear once the top notes fade and determine the fragrance's core. Examples include black pepper, cardamom, chamomile, cinnamon, clove, fir needle, jasmine, juniper, lemongrass, neroli, nutmeg, rose, rosewood, and ylang-ylang.

Base Notes

Base notes are the foundation of the fragrance and can make the scent last up to 4-5 hours. Examples include cedarwood, cypress, ginger, patchouli, pine, sandalwood, vanilla, and vetiver.

When mixing a fragrance, the ideal ratio is 30% top notes, 50% middle notes, and 20% base notes. However, some perfumers recommend a ratio of 20% base, 50% middle, and 30% top notes. It's important to experiment and find the formula that works best for the type of profile you're trying to create.

When choosing essential oils for cologne, it's best to use scents that are more masculine and create a well-structured fragrance with top, middle, and base notes. Popular essential oils for men's colognes include bergamot, cedarwood, sandalwood, basil, cinnamon, and black pepper.

• 4 drops of wild orange (top note)
• 6 drops of sandalwood (middle note)
• 10 drops of frankincense (base note)
• 3 drops of lemon (top note)
• 4 drops of cardamom (middle note)
• 4 drops of ylang-ylang (middle note)
• 6 drops of vetiver (base note)
• 3 drops of lemongrass (top note)
• 3 drops of basil (middle note)
• 4 drops of cedarwood (base note)
• 6 drops of Douglas fir (base note)
• 2 drops of bergamot (top note)
• 3 drops of lemon (top note)
• 6 drops of clove (middle note)
• 8 drops of white fir (base note)
• 4 drops of lemongrass (top note)
• 6 drops of copaiba (middle note)
• 8 drops of frankincense (base note)

Blending the oils

Start by adding a few drops of oil (one by one) and begin mixing. It's recommended to use no more than 30 drops in total, and if one scent is much stronger than the rest, use less of it.

• Base notes like sandalwood, tonka bean, violet leaf, and vanilla blend well with middle notes like geranium, ylang-ylang, rose, and lotus flower. Top this formula off with lavender, neroli, magnolia, and mandarin.
• For a more masculine scent, try using bay, lime, bergamot, and cedarwood essential oils.
• If you're going for a woodsy and citrus scent, try 4 drops of wild orange (top note), 6 drops of sandalwood (middle note), and 10 drops of frankincense (base note).
• For a refreshing manly scent, use 3 drops of lemongrass (top note), 3 drops of basil (middle note), 4 drops of cedarwood (base note), and 6 drops of Douglas fir (base note).
• For a citrus spice blend, use 2 drops of bergamot (top note), 3 drops of lemon (top note), 6 drops of clove (middle note), and 8 drops of white fir (base note).
• For a blend that can be used any time of the day, use 4 drops of lemongrass (top note), 6 drops of copaiba (middle note), and 8 drops of frankincense (base note).

Once you've created your desired formula, add two ounces of alcohol and let the fragrance brew and sit for 48 hours. You can even refrigerate it for two weeks straight and then shake it up so that the molecules can mix.

Adding alcohol

Alcohol is a key ingredient in cologne and perfume. It is used to help merge the ingredients together and evaporates quickly, helping to diffuse the perfume's notes. Cologne contains a higher percentage of alcohol than perfume, with the remainder of the solution being made up of water or a carrier oil.

The type of alcohol used in perfumery is ethanol, which is the same as grain alcohol. This is strictly regulated and can be difficult to obtain. Special denatured (SD) alcohol is often used as a substitute, which has additives that make it undrinkable. SD alcohol can be hard to get hold of, and in some places, it is impossible. An alternative is pure grain alcohol products, such as Everclear, which is 95% alcohol. However, the sale of Everclear is restricted in some US states, including California, Massachusetts, Minnesota, Ohio, Oregon, Pennsylvania, and Washington.

If you are unable to source SD alcohol or pure grain alcohol, 100-proof vodka can be used. However, this is not ideal as it can be illegal to sell any perfume or cologne made with vodka or Everclear.

When making cologne or perfume, the alcohol is added after the essential oils have been blended. The mixture is then left to mature for 48 hours up to six weeks. The longer it is left, the stronger the fragrance will be. After this, the mixture is diluted with water and mixed well.

Diluting the cologne

Diluting cologne is a great way to make a fragrance less intense and more suitable for everyday use. Here is a guide on how to do it effectively:

Choosing the Right Diluent

The choice of diluent depends on the intended use of the cologne. If you are making an alcohol-based cologne spray, it is best to dilute your fragrance in perfumer's alcohol. This will ensure that the scent evaporates and can be easily applied. However, if you plan to add your cologne to bases like candles, creams, detergents, or oils, you should consider using a different solvent. Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) is commonly used in the fragrance industry and is suitable for various bases. It is important to note that DPG is derived from petrochemicals, so it may not be ideal for natural perfumery.

Dilution Ratios and Techniques

When diluting cologne, it is crucial to use the correct ratios. A good starting point is to dilute most materials by 10%. However, for strong materials like Ethyl Vanillin, Calone, and Violet Leaf, a 1% dilution is more appropriate. It is also essential to use a scale, not drops, for accurate and repeatable results. A jewellery scale that measures down to 0.01g is suitable for beginners. For a 10g solution at 10% concentration, you would need 1g of the fragrance and 9g of the diluent.

Some materials may require gentle heating to become more mobile and easier to blend. This can be done using a water bath or an electric leg wax melter. Tonka Absolute and mimosa absolute, for instance, need to be warmed and blended with alcohol, and then the mixture should be returned to the water bath with continuous stirring to prevent evaporation.

When Not to Dilute

There are a few instances when dilution is not recommended. Firstly, if you are making a batch of cologne in a cream, detergent, candle, or soap, it is best not to dilute the fragrance in perfumer's alcohol, as it won't be compatible with these bases. Secondly, you don't need to dilute all your materials; some may need to be kept neat for specific applications.

Additional Tips

When experimenting with new formulas, it is advisable to dilute expensive materials to use tiny amounts and prevent waste. Additionally, some materials are easier to smell when diluted, as dilution aids evaporation and provides a fuller profile of the scent. Finally, if you are just starting with perfumery, consider investing in a jewellery scale for accurate measurements, and always dilute and blend using a scale rather than drops.

Storing the cologne

Storing your cologne correctly is essential to prolonging its shelf life. Here are some tips to ensure your cologne remains in good condition:

Choosing the Right Storage Space:

• Keep your cologne away from direct sunlight, as this can damage the bottle and its contents. Store it in a dark place, such as a closet or drawer.
• Find a storage area with a consistent temperature, avoiding extreme heat or cold. The kitchen and bathroom are not suitable due to temperature fluctuations.
• Avoid humid environments as humidity can negatively impact the quality of your cologne. Consider using a dehumidifier in the storage area if necessary.
• The refrigerator can be an option if it's not too cold. However, very cold temperatures can also damage cologne, so only use the fridge if items don't freeze inside.

Selecting a Storage Container:

• If the original bottle is attractive, you may want to keep your cologne in it and display it on a shelf or tray. Otherwise, transfer it to a more aesthetically pleasing container.
• Store your cologne bottles in boxes before placing them in storage. This provides extra protection from heat and sunlight. Ensure the caps are sealed tightly to prevent leaks.
• For travel, opt for smaller containers to reduce the risk of losing your cologne or exposing it to excessive air if the cap is left open.

Preventing Damage:

• Always keep the cap on the bottle when not in use to minimise exposure to air, which can cause the cologne to deteriorate.
• Avoid shaking the bottle unless specifically instructed to do so, as this introduces excess air and can be harmful.
• Limit the use of applicators, as they can introduce bacteria and oils into the bottle. If you must use an applicator, opt for disposable ones.
• Keep fragile bottles on lower shelves or in places where they are less likely to fall and shatter, especially if you live in an area prone to earthquakes.

Frequently asked questions