Creating Scents: The Art Of Crafting Cologne

Creating a fragrance is a complex process that can take anywhere from 12 to 18 months. It involves various steps, from developing the initial concept to designing the bottle and everything in between. The process begins with a brief from the marketing department, outlining the target customer's interests, lifestyle, and tastes. One of the most challenging aspects is securing a unique name that is available worldwide, which can take up to five years. Once the concept is finalised, perfumers pitch their ideas and develop samples. The process also includes designing the bottle, booking transportation, sourcing raw materials, and creating launch plans.

The creative process: from marketing brief to perfumer pitch

The creative process of making cologne begins with a marketing brief. This brief outlines the target customer, including their interests, lifestyle, and tastes. The marketing team will also consult trend forecasting agencies to determine what notes, colours, and styles will be in fashion in the coming years. They will also take into account food trends, as exotic flavours that are popular in the food industry often make their way into perfumes.

Once the marketing brief is complete, the legal team will begin the momentous task of securing a unique name that is available in every country the cologne will be sold. This can take two to five years.

The marketing department will then create mood boards and videos that describe the customer and the theme of the scent, as well as a detailed budget that the perfumer will have to follow.

Perfumers are then invited to pitch for the project. They will receive the brief and develop a concept and samples to pitch to the brand team. The brand and management teams will then make their decision, and a perfumer will be hired.

From here, the process moves into the design phase, with the marketing, digital, and creative teams mocking up designs, visuals, and video concepts. Bottle designers will experiment with different shapes, colours, and themes.

The entire process, from the creation of the first perfume sample to having the finished product in hand, can take around four to six months.

Testing fragrances: blotters, skin, and sample groups

Testing fragrances is a crucial step in the process of creating a new cologne. It involves evaluating different scents on blotters and skin to determine their suitability and appeal. Here is a detailed guide on how to test fragrances like a professional:

Blotters:

Blotters, also known as paper smelling strips or Mouillettes, are the first step in testing fragrances. They are typically made from absorbent, porous paper that allows perfumes to be absorbed quickly. To use a blotter, follow these steps:

• Spray the fragrance two or three times in a downward motion into a cloud.
• Pass the blotter through the cloud without touching the perfume.
• Hold the scented blotter under your nose, maintaining a distance of an inch or two, and inhale gently.
• Refer back to the blotter regularly to observe how the scent evolves over time.
• Store used blotters separately to prevent cross-contamination.

Blotters provide a clean and simple way to test multiple fragrances without getting them on your skin. However, they only offer a glimpse of the fragrance's true character, as fragrances are designed to react with the skin's heat and natural oils.

Skin:

Testing fragrances on the skin is the next step after trying them on blotters. This step helps to evaluate how the fragrance interacts with your body chemistry and natural oils, as well as how it evolves over time. Here's how to test fragrances on your skin:

• Spray the fragrance on your wrist, the back of your hand, or the lower arm. Avoid rubbing it in and let it dry naturally.
• Inhale the fragrance without touching your nose to the skin. Keep a distance of an inch or two.
• Allow the fragrance to settle and develop over time. Refer back to it periodically to observe how the scent changes.
• Avoid washing the area or applying another fragrance until you've thoroughly washed your hands.

When testing on the skin, it's important to choose only one or two fragrances to avoid contamination. The warmth and natural oils of your skin will influence how the fragrance evolves, and you'll be able to experience the full range of notes.

Sample Groups:

In the fragrance industry, consumer sample groups are often engaged in blind sampling sessions to evaluate new scents. This step is crucial as it provides feedback from potential customers and helps avoid costly mistakes. The new fragrance is usually tested against top-selling perfumes to determine its appeal and purchase potential. These sample groups play a vital role in the decision-making process, especially considering the high cost of a global fragrance launch.

In conclusion, testing fragrances is a multi-step process that involves blotters, skin testing, and sample groups. Each step serves a specific purpose, from initial scent evaluation to understanding how the fragrance interacts with the skin and, ultimately, gathering consumer feedback. By following these steps, perfumers and marketers can make informed decisions about the development and launch of new fragrances.

The science of scent: fragrance scales, notes, and ratios

Creating a fragrance is a complex process that involves a delicate balance of art and science. It requires a deep understanding of scent composition, fragrance notes, and their ratios. The final product is a harmonious blend of various aromatic ingredients, carefully crafted to evoke specific emotions and captivate the senses.

Fragrance Notes

The first step in understanding the science of scent is to grasp the concept of fragrance notes. These are the individual scents that come together to create a unique perfume or cologne. There are three main types of fragrance notes: top notes, middle notes (or heart notes), and base notes. Each type of note plays a specific role in shaping the overall fragrance experience.

• Top notes are the initial impression of a perfume. They are light and fleeting, usually composed of volatile compounds such as citrus fruits, herbs, and light floral scents. Top notes create an inviting opening, enticing the senses before quickly evaporating.
• Middle notes, or heart notes, emerge as the top notes dissipate. These notes form the core of the perfume, adding depth and complexity. They typically include floral, fruity, or spicy aromas, imparting warmth and character to the scent profile.
• Base notes are the foundation of the perfume, providing longevity and stability. These rich, deep, and earthy aromas, often derived from woods, resins, and musks, emerge as the top and middle notes fade, leaving a lasting impression.

Fragrance Ratios

When creating a fragrance, perfumers must carefully consider the ratios of these notes to achieve the desired scent profile. The ratio of top, middle, and base notes can vary depending on the intended effect and the perfumer's creative vision. However, a typical ratio for a well-rounded fragrance could be 30% top notes, 50% middle notes, and 20% base notes.

In addition to the types and ratios of notes, the concentration of perfume oil in the final product also plays a crucial role in its scent profile and longevity. Different types of fragrances, such as Eau de Parfum, Eau de Toilette, and Eau de Cologne, have varying concentrations of perfume oil, resulting in different scent intensities and lasting power.

The Creative Process

The creative process behind fragrance development is just as fascinating as the science. It often begins with a brief from the marketing department, outlining the target customer's interests, lifestyle, and tastes. Perfumers then pitch their creative concepts and samples, competing for the opportunity to bring their vision to life. Once the perfumer is selected, the marketing and creative teams collaborate to design the bottle, packaging, and overall brand aesthetic.

In conclusion, the science of scent is a complex and intricate process that involves a delicate balance of fragrance notes, ratios, and concentrations. Through the artful combination of top, middle, and base notes, perfumers create unique scent profiles that evoke emotions and captivate the senses. The creative process, from concept to consumer, is a dynamic and meticulous journey that results in the captivating fragrances we know and love.

Ingredients: essential oils, alcohol, glycerin, and more

The ingredients used to make cologne are important, as they determine the scent, intensity, and longevity of the fragrance. While the specific ingredients and quantities may vary depending on the desired scent profile and the perfumer's preferences, there are some key components that are commonly used in cologne-making. Here is an overview of the essential ingredients and their roles in creating a captivating cologne:

Essential Oils

Essential oils are the heart of any cologne, providing the desired scent and aroma. These oils are typically derived from natural sources such as plants, flowers, fruits, or trees, and they impart the unique olfactory characteristics that distinguish one cologne from another. When creating a cologne, it is common to use a blend of three essential oils: a top note, a middle note, and a base note.

Top notes are the first scents you perceive upon applying the cologne. They are often light, fresh, and citrusy, such as bergamot or lime. Middle notes come through after the top notes and provide depth to the fragrance. Examples of middle notes include bay, with its sweet and spicy odour, and woody scents like cedarwood. Base notes form the foundation of the fragrance and are usually rich, deep, and long-lasting, such as sandalwood, tonka bean, violet leaf, or vanilla.

Alcohol

Alcohol is a key ingredient in cologne, serving multiple purposes. Firstly, it acts as a solvent, helping to dissolve and disperse the essential oils evenly throughout the mixture. Additionally, alcohol functions as a preservative, inhibiting the growth of microorganisms and extending the shelf life of the cologne. Commonly used alcohols in perfumery include perfumer's alcohol, pure grain alcohol, or even vodka.

Glycerin

Glycerin, often derived from vegetable oil, is added to cologne formulations to increase the longevity of the fragrance. It helps the cologne adhere to the skin, ensuring that the scent lingers for a more extended period. Glycerin also contributes to a smoother and more even application of the cologne, enhancing the overall sensory experience.

Water

Water is an essential component in cologne, as it dilutes the alcohol and essential oil mixture to create a more subtle and refreshing fragrance. Using distilled water is recommended to ensure purity and avoid the introduction of unwanted contaminants.

Other Ingredients

While the ingredients mentioned above form the foundation of most colognes, perfumers may also add other components to enhance the fragrance or provide additional benefits. For example, dried flowers can be included for aesthetic appeal and to subtly infuse their scent into the cologne. Additionally, some colognes may incorporate mood-enhancing or therapeutic ingredients, such as witch hazel, to provide a calming or uplifting effect.

The art of creating a captivating cologne lies in the careful selection and blending of these ingredients. It requires experimentation, creativity, and a deep understanding of how different notes interact with each other. By mastering the use of these ingredients, perfumers can craft unique and alluring fragrances that leave a lasting impression.

Storage: how to make your cologne last longer

The key to making your cologne last longer is to store it in a cool, dark, and dry place. Here are some tips to ensure your cologne stays fresh and potent:

• Avoid storing your cologne in the bathroom. The humidity and temperature fluctuations from showers can cause the fragrance to break down and lose its strength.
• Keep your cologne in its original box and store it in a closet or cupboard outside the bathroom. The cardboard boxes are designed to protect the aromatic elixir within.
• Aim for a consistent temperature of around 60 degrees Fahrenheit. Extreme temperatures can alter the oils and other ingredients in the cologne.
• Keep the bottle sealed when not in use. Oxygen is perfume's worst enemy, as it causes the scent to dilute and oxidize.
• Avoid excessive shaking of the bottle, as this can introduce unwanted oxidation and break delicate chemical bonds.
• If you want to display your cologne, avoid direct sunlight, as light can break down the scented liquid's makeup.
• Store your cologne in an airtight, light-proof container to minimize oxidation and protect it from harmful rays.
• Keep the bottle on a low shelf to prevent breakage and reduce the impact of falling, which can disrupt the chemical bonds and alter the scent.
• Check your fragrance for discoloration, which can indicate degradation, especially if it contains natural ingredients.

Frequently asked questions