Creating Cologne: A Step-By-Step Guide To Making Scents

Creating cologne is a complex process that involves a combination of art and science. It begins with the extraction of scented oils from natural ingredients such as plants, fruits, woods, and even animal secretions. These oils are then blended according to a specific formula, a process known as the nose, which can take years to perfect and may include hundreds of ingredients. After blending, the mixture is diluted with alcohol, with the ratio of alcohol to scent determining the final product – cologne contains the most alcohol and up to 10% scented oils. The mixture then undergoes an aging process, where it is left undisturbed in a cool, dark area for several months to a year, allowing the alcohol and oils to permanently bond. Finally, the cologne is tested by an expert to ensure the desired scent has been achieved, and any necessary adjustments are made.

Choose your essential oils

When it comes to choosing your essential oils, you have a lot of options. You can create a masculine or feminine scent profile, depending on your preference.

If you lean towards woody and sweet scents, cedarwood is a great option. It is one of the oldest essential oils used in perfumery and combines beautifully with citrus notes to create a warm tone. For a romantic, floral fragrance, try jasmine, rose or ylang-ylang. Remember, your chosen scent will be diluted and blended, so the final result will likely be more muted than the initial scent.

For a sharp, fresh aroma, use lime essential oil. It blends well with other citrus oils like bergamot, which is often referred to as the 'happy oil' and is commonly used in perfumes and skincare products.

When creating your own cologne, it's important to understand the fragrance scale and the different notes. Top notes are the initial scent you smell and disappear within 10-15 minutes. Middle notes appear after the top notes and form the heart of the fragrance. Base notes are the foundation of the perfume and can last up to 4-5 hours on the skin.

The ideal ratio for blending these notes is recommended as 60% base notes, 30% middle notes, and 10% top notes. However, you can also experiment with different ratios to find what works best for your desired scent profile.

Once you've chosen your essential oils, you can move on to the fun part of blending them together!

Understand the fragrance scale

Understanding the fragrance scale is a key part of making cologne. The fragrance scale refers to the different notes of a fragrance, which are the different scents that can be detected upon application and as the fragrance matures.

There are three types of notes: top, middle/heart, and base. Top notes are the first thing you smell when you spray a cologne and they evaporate quickly. Citrus scents like lemon, mandarin, and bergamot are common top notes. Middle notes appear once the top notes have evaporated and are considered the main body of the fragrance. They are well-rounded and last longer than top notes. Coriander, palmarosa, and basil are examples of middle notes. Base notes are the longest-lasting and create the foundation of the fragrance. Common base notes include patchouli, vetiver, and cedarwood.

The ratio of these notes is important when formulating a cologne. Matthew Milèo, a chemist and former in-house nose for Chanel, recommends the basic pyramid accord for beginners: 60% base notes, 30% middle notes, and 10% top notes. However, another expert, Carina Chaz, suggests a different ratio: 20% base, 50% middle, and 30% top notes. Ultimately, it's up to the perfumer to experiment and find the formula that works best for the type of profile they want to create.

In addition to the fragrance scale, it's important to understand fragrance families when creating a cologne. The four main types are warm, woody, oriental, and fresh. Fresh fragrances usually comprise citrus, water, and green notes, giving them a refreshing and vibrant smell. Warm fragrances use more florals and juicy fruit scents. Oriental fragrances are warm, sweet, and sometimes spicy, often made with notes like cardamom, cinnamon, and jasmine. Woody fragrances have a mysterious and captivating scent, often favoured in aftershaves, and use wood-based smells like cedarwood and sandalwood.

Alcohol is key

When making cologne, alcohol is a key ingredient. It is used to help merge the ingredients together. Alcohol is a popular choice because it evaporates quickly and helps to diffuse the cologne's notes. It also helps to preserve the fragrance.

High-quality, 80- to 100-proof (40% to 50% alc/vol) vodka is a common choice among DIY cologne-makers. However, some prefer to use 190-proof (80% alc/vol) alcohol, such as organic neutral grape alcohol or Everclear, a grain spirit.

The amount of alcohol used will depend on the desired fragrance load. True cologne uses just a 2-4% fragrance load. To calculate how much alcohol is needed, multiply the total amount of cologne by the percentage of fragrance you want to use. For example, if you want to make a 2.5 oz bottle of cologne with a 15.44% fragrance load, you will need 0.38 oz of fragrance and 2.12 oz of alcohol (2.5 oz x 0.1544 = 0.38 oz fragrance; 2.5 oz total cologne – 0.38 oz fragrance = 2.12 oz alcohol).

Once you have calculated the amount of alcohol needed, simply add your chosen fragrance oil to the alcohol, stir the mixture, and pour it into a spray bottle. Your DIY cologne is now ready to use!

Mix and match

Making cologne is a fun and creative process, and the best part is that you can customise it to your liking. The process is fairly simple, and you can mix and match a variety of ingredients to create your unique scent. Here are the steps to guide you through the process:

Step 1: Understand the Basics

Before you begin, it's important to understand the different components of a cologne. A cologne typically consists of three types of notes: top notes, middle notes, and base notes. Top notes are the initial scent you smell when you apply the cologne, and they usually disappear within 10 to 15 minutes. Middle notes appear after the top notes fade and form the core of the fragrance. Base notes are the foundation of the cologne and make the scent last longer, up to 4 to 5 hours.

Step 2: Choose Your Notes

When selecting your notes, you can mix and match from a variety of essential oils or fragrance oils. Popular top notes include basil, bergamot, grapefruit, lavender, lemon, lime, mint, neroli, rosemary, and sweet orange. For middle notes, you can choose from options like black pepper, cardamom, chamomile, cinnamon, clove, jasmine, juniper, rose, and ylang-ylang. As for base notes, cedarwood, cypress, ginger, patchouli, sandalwood, and vanilla are popular choices. You can also opt for fragrance oils, which are synthetic and more affordable than essential oils.

Step 3: Determine Ratios

Once you've selected your notes, it's time to determine the ratios for mixing them. A good starting point is the basic pyramid accord, which consists of 60% base notes, 30% middle notes, and 10% top notes. However, you can also experiment with different ratios, such as 20% base, 50% middle, and 30% top, to create a unique blend. Remember that the key to a successful cologne is balancing the notes so that no single scent overpowers the others.

Step 4: Gather Your Ingredients and Tools

In addition to your chosen notes, you'll need a few other ingredients and tools. Alcohol, such as vodka or perfumer's alcohol, is essential for mixing the cologne. You'll also need distilled or spring water and glycerin, which can be found in pharmacies. A glass jar for mixing, measuring tools like cups and spoons, and a dropper are also useful. Finally, you'll need a spray bottle or glass perfume bottle to store your cologne.

Step 5: Mix and Match

Now comes the fun part – mixing and matching your chosen notes! Start by adding your base notes to the alcohol in the glass jar. Then, add the middle notes, followed by the top notes. Play around with different combinations and ratios until you find a scent that appeals to you. Remember to take your time and experiment with different options, as this is the heart of creating your unique cologne.

Step 6: Age and Dilute

Once you've created your desired fragrance, let it age in a cool, dark place for at least 48 hours or up to a month. This allows the scents to mingle and intensify. After ageing, dilute your cologne by adding distilled water and glycerin. The glycerin helps preserve the fragrance.

Step 7: Bottle and Enjoy

Finally, pour your cologne into your chosen bottle, seal it tightly, and label it with a fancy name. Your signature cologne is now ready to use and enjoy! You can also decorate the bottle and gift it to someone special.

Bottle and store

Once you've created your cologne, you'll need to bottle and store it correctly to preserve its fragrance.

First, sterilise your chosen bottle and jar in the dishwasher, especially if you're reusing old bottles. It's important that they are clean and sterile. You should also use a glass bottle, as glass is less likely to affect the formula of your cologne. Dark glass bottles are best as they protect your cologne from light, which can shorten its lifespan.

Next, pour your cologne into the bottle. If you're making multiple bottles, place them on a scale to ensure you pour the same amount into each.

Seal the bottle tightly and store your cologne in a cool, dark place to preserve the fragrance. You can also cover clear bottles with aluminium foil or wrapping paper to protect them from the light.

Frequently asked questions