Seamus Hammond
Creating a perfume accord is a complex process that involves blending different raw materials to create a unique scent. An accord is not a simple sum of its components but rather a harmonious blend that creates a new fragrance. The process requires an in-depth understanding of the materials used, including their impact, longevity, and performance on the skin and in different bases. One popular method for creating accords is the Jean Carles Method, which involves a systematic process of trial and error. It is important to keep the number of materials used in an accord to a minimum to avoid a muddled scent. Perfumers must also consider the different notes of the accord, including top, heart, and base notes, and may choose to add additional olfactory facets. The creation of a perfume accord is a labour of love that requires patience, dedication, skill, and time.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Number of materials | 3 materials, especially when using naturals |
| Type of materials | Raw materials, essential oils, isolates, single molecule aromachemicals, synthetics, aroma chemicals |
| Ratio of materials | 3.5:1.5:1, 1:1 |
| Type of accord | Vertical accord, horizontal accord |
| Olfactory goal | Masculine, feminine, unisex |
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What You'll Learn
Keep it simple: use a small number of materials
Creating a perfume accord is a systematic process of trial and error that requires patience, dedication, skill and time. An accord is a harmonious blend of different raw materials, balanced to create a unique scent. The process begins with the selection of essential oils, which are then adjusted incrementally using a test-strip process. Each new combination requires another round of test strips, ratios, comparisons, and notes.
When creating a perfume accord, it is important to keep it simple and use a small number of materials, especially when using natural ingredients. Using too many materials can result in a muddled scent. It is recommended to start with three materials, as this will help you become familiar with the process and avoid wastefulness. You can always expand and add more materials later.
Before beginning, it is important to get to know your materials and understand their impact, longevity, and performance on strips, skin, and different bases. Pre-diluting your materials in alcohol can allow you to experiment without wasting too much product. Start by composing on smelling strips to determine which materials may work well together.
When creating an accord, it is common to use a 1:1 ratio for the first two materials, adjusting the blend before introducing a third, stronger material. This helps to create a balanced and harmonious scent. It is important to remember that an accord will be used with other accords in the final perfume, so it is not necessary to include too many components.
By keeping it simple and using a small number of carefully selected materials, you can create a beautiful and unique perfume accord that forms the foundation of your fragrance.
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Try the Jean Carles Method
The Jean Carles method is a valuable learning tool for creating perfume accords. It involves adding different ratios of two materials to small beakers numbered from 1 to 5 or 1 to 10 and selecting the ratio that works for you. This process can be repeated with additional materials, blending them until they smell like a singular scent. The goal is to create a harmonious blend where the sum is greater than its individual parts.
To start, get to know your materials and their impact, longevity, and strength. Pre-diluting your materials in alcohol can allow you to experiment without wasting too much. You can then compose on smelling strips, dipping a strip for each material and wafting them together to get an idea of their combined scent.
When you're ready to begin blending, start with two materials in different ratios. For example, you might mix oakmoss and patchouli in ratios of 1:9, 2:8, 3:7, and so on until you find a balance where neither dominates. This blend then becomes the basis for another series of experiments with a third material. However, adding a third material can upset the balance of the first two, so it's important to modify slightly as needed.
The Jean Carles method can be time-consuming and lead to a lot of waste, but it is a systematic way to learn about perfumery raw materials and their nuances through comparison. It helps to memorise smells and understand how different materials interact with each other.
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Study your materials: their impact, longevity, and performance
Creating a perfume accord requires a good understanding of the materials you are working with. This includes studying their impact, longevity, and performance.
Firstly, it is important to keep the number of materials used to a minimum, especially when using natural ingredients. The more materials you add, the more muddled the scent can become. It is recommended to start with three materials and expand from there. This also allows you to keep the process simple, which is beneficial when creating accords.
Secondly, you should study the impact of your materials. This involves understanding how strong each material is and how they can be combined. Start by selecting two materials with a similar level of impact and combine them at a 1:1 ratio. You can then scale up your blend by adding a third, stronger material. This method helps to create a balanced accord.
Thirdly, longevity is an important factor to consider. Study how long each material lasts and how this changes when combined with other materials. This will help you create an accord with a consistent and desirable lifespan.
Finally, you should assess the performance of your materials on strips, on the skin, and in different bases. This will help you understand how the materials interact with each other and how they will perform in different applications. A technique for understanding how materials may work together is to dip a strip in each material and waft them together. This can help you identify potential combinations before combining the materials.
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Pre-dilute materials in alcohol to experiment without wasting product
Creating a perfume accord involves blending a few materials, ideally three, to keep the fragrance simple and prevent it from becoming muddled. One popular method for creating accords is the Jean Carles Method, which involves a lot of trials and may lead to wastage. To avoid this, pre-dilute a small set of your materials in alcohol to 10% to experiment without wasting too much product. This is especially useful when working with strong-smelling materials.
Diluting perfume materials is a common practice in perfumery, with perfumers often diluting their materials to 20%, 10%, 1%, 0.5%, or even less before blending. This helps to reduce waste and makes it easier to work with small amounts of potent fragrances. The type of diluting agent used depends on the medium of the final product. For instance, oil-based perfumes are typically diluted with oil, while alcohol-based perfumes use perfumer's alcohol.
When diluting perfume materials, it is important to use accurate measurements. Professional perfumers typically measure by weight using grams, although some may use drops or milliliters. The number of drops per milliliter can vary depending on the viscosity and size of the drop, with more mobile oils having a higher number of drops per milliliter. To ensure precise dilution ratios, perfumers can use a weight/weight dilution calculator or a formula that accounts for concentration and volume.
Additionally, it's crucial to consider the concentration of the fragrance in the final product. Different types of perfumes, such as eau de parfum or eau de toilette, require specific concentration ranges to achieve the desired strength. Overall, pre-diluting materials in alcohol is a valuable technique in perfumery that allows for experimentation and the creation of well-balanced accords without wasting valuable ingredients.
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Create a vertical or horizontal accord
Creating a perfume accord is a systematic process of trial and error that requires patience, dedication, skill and time. An accord is a harmonious blend of different notes that come together to create a unique fragrance. Perfumers usually have an olfactory goal in mind and carefully select essential oils to create a new scent.
A vertical accord is made up of notes from top to bottom. You can use accords with the same notes, such as top notes, which is called a horizontal accord. You can mix vertical accords, such as a magnolia accord with an apple vertical accord, and also add horizontal accords, such as a horizontal amber base accord.
When creating accords, it is best to keep it simple, especially when starting. Using three materials is recommended, especially when using natural ingredients, as too many can create a muddled scent. You can always expand your accord later. One method for creating accords is the Jean Carles Method, which involves a lot of trials and potential waste. A simplified method involves mixing two materials with the most similar levels of impact at a 1:1 ratio and adjusting before adding a third.
To create a perfume, you can build a vertical accord for each of three horizontal accords, forming a cross. For example, using rose as the central, horizontal accord, you can add a vertical material at the top of the cross as the top note, and a note at the bottom of the cross as the back note.
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Frequently asked questions
An accord is the combination of different raw materials to create a unique scent. It is the keystone of a perfume, defining its soul.
It is recommended to use 3 materials, especially when using naturals, as using too many can make the scent muddled. Accords can consist of a maximum of 6 to 10 components.
A floral bouquet is an example of a complex accord, with pink as the major note. A simple accord could be a rose scent, which can be created with 5 ingredients.
The Jean Carles Method is a technique for creating accords. It involves using multiple materials at a 1:1 ratio and adjusting before adding a stronger material.
Firstly, get to know your materials and how they interact with each other. Pre-dilute your materials in alcohol so you can experiment without wasting too much. Compose on smelling strips to get an idea of how the materials work together.
