Creating Scents: The Art Of Crafting Cologne

Creating cologne is a complex process that involves a combination of art and science. It begins with the extraction of scented oils from natural ingredients, such as plants, fruits, woods, and even animal secretions. These oils are then blended according to a specific formula, a process known as the nose, which can take years to perfect and may include hundreds of ingredients. The blended oils are then mixed with alcohol, with the ratio of alcohol to scent determining the type of fragrance – cologne contains the most alcohol and up to 10% scented oils. The mixture is then aged for several months to a year, allowing the alcohol and oils to bond, before undergoing quality control to ensure it is safe and meets brand standards.

Gathering ingredients

Plant-based Ingredients

Plant substances are often hand-picked for their particular aroma. Some of the most common plant-based ingredients used in colognes include:

• Flowers
• Fruits
• Spices
• Leaves
• Gums
• Balsams
• Grasses
• Roots
• Resins
• Woods
• Essential oils

Animal-based Ingredients

Animal products used in colognes are fatty substances that must be extracted directly from the animal. Some common animal-based ingredients include:

• Musk from male deer
• Ambergris from sperm whales
• Castor from beavers
• Civet
• Musk
• Ambergris
• Civet

Synthetic Ingredients

Not all scents are always readily available in nature, so synthetic chemicals are often used to mimic them. Synthetic ingredients are also used to create original fragrances not found in nature. Some common synthetic ingredients include:

• Alcohol
• Coal
• Tars
• Petrochemicals
• Aliphatic aldehydes
• Synthetic musk
• Synthetic ambergris
• Synthetic lily of the valley

The gathering of ingredients is a crucial step in the cologne-making process, as it forms the foundation for the final product. The combination of plant- and animal-based ingredients, along with synthetic chemicals, creates the unique and appealing fragrances that we know and love.

Extracting oils

One of the oldest methods of extraction is the expression method, which involves pressing the plants or flowers, either mechanically or manually, until all the oils are extracted. This is a simple process, often used for extracting citrus oils.

Another method is enfleurage, which was used by the Egyptians and later by French perfumers in the 18th century. This technique involves spreading flowers or plant material on grease-coated glass sheets, which are then placed in tiers between wooden frames. The grease absorbs the fragrance, and the process is repeated with fresh flowers until the grease is saturated with the essence.

Maceration is similar to enfleurage, but warmed fats are used to absorb the fragrance. The fats are then dissolved in alcohol to obtain the essential oils.

Solvent extraction is another method, where flowers are placed in large rotating drums and covered with benzene or petroleum ether. The flowers dissolve, leaving a waxy substance containing the oils, which is then placed in ethyl alcohol. The alcohol is burned off, leaving a highly concentrated perfume oil.

Steam distillation is also used, where the plant material is placed in a still and extracted. The resulting substance is passed through tubes, cooled, and liquefied.

Finally, oils can be extracted by simply boiling the plant material in water.

These methods of oil extraction are used to create the base for many perfumes and colognes, with additional ingredients and processes used to create the final fragrance.

Blending

The blending process begins once all the ingredients have been carefully selected by a master perfumer, often referred to as a "nose." These experts follow a predetermined formula, which may have been meticulously crafted over several years and can include hundreds of different ingredients. The blending process involves combining essential oils with other substances, such as alcohol or water, to dilute the ingredients and create the desired concentration. The ratio of alcohol to scent determines the strength and classification of the final product, be it a cologne, perfume, or eau de toilette.

In addition to essential oils, other fixatives may be used during blending to enhance the fragrance. These include animal substances like musk, ambergris, and castor, as well as plant-based options such as coal tar, mosses, and resins. These fixatives act as a "glue," allowing the fragrance to evaporate slowly and emit odours for a longer duration.

The blending process is a complex and creative endeavour, requiring extensive testing and a deep understanding of the interactions between different scents. It can take years of experimentation and adjustments to perfect a unique fragrance, and the final product may contain a multitude of carefully selected ingredients.

Aging

The aging process is an important part of creating a fine cologne or perfume. Once the scent has been blended, it is then mixed with alcohol and left to age for several months or even years. This process allows the different scents, or notes, to blend together and ensures that the proper scent has been created. Aging also allows for the permanent bonding of the alcohol and the essential oils. At the end of the aging period, an expert will test the scent to ensure that it is now stronger than it was before the process began. If the scent does not meet the required standard, adjustments can be made, such as additional blending.

The aging process for cologne or perfume takes place in a cool, dark area, undisturbed, for a period of several months to one year. By not exposing the perfume to oxygen and keeping it in the dark at low temperatures, the damaging effects of time are greatly reduced. Chemists also add antioxidants to the fragrance, most commonly Butylated hydroxytoluene, to aid in the scent's longevity.

The length of time that a cologne or perfume can be aged depends on how it is stored. When stored correctly, fragrances can last for decades. The key to storing cologne or perfume is to keep it in a cool, dark place, free of wild temperature changes. Direct sunlight, warm damp conditions, and extreme temperatures can degrade a fragrance by breaking down its chemical bonds, causing its smell and appearance to change.

Quality control

Natural ingredients can be difficult to harvest, and some perfumes use natural animal oils, which can also be troublesome to collect. Synthetic perfumes have allowed perfumers to create their scents more easily and require less quality control.

Perfumes are tested by experts to ensure that the scent is correct and stronger than before the ageing process. Adjustments and additional blending can be made at this stage if necessary.

Frequently asked questions