Finding Your Signature Scent: Choosing The Right Cologne

Choosing a cologne can be a daunting task, especially with the thousands of fragrances available. The right cologne for you is one that you fall in love with and feel confident wearing. It should also complement your natural body odour.

There are a few steps you can take to find the right cologne for you. Firstly, consider the scents you already love and enjoy, such as the smell of coconut shampoo or fresh laundry. You can then search for fragrances with similar notes. If you have a particular note in mind, such as pine or leather, you can use online resources like Fragrantica.com or Basenotes.com to find fragrances that include that note.

You should also consider the different fragrance families, such as woody, floral, or aquatic, and the various notes within these families, such as sandalwood, musk, or rose. Understanding the different layers of a fragrance, including top, middle, and base notes, can also help you make a decision.

It's important to try a cologne before you buy it, as the scent will be unique to you and your body chemistry. You can visit a department store to sample different fragrances, or purchase sample-size testers or discovery sets online.

Know your core notes

Knowing the core notes in a fragrance is essential when choosing a cologne that suits you. Notes are the individual elements that, when combined, compose the final fragrance. These can include sandalwood, musk, bergamot, rose, moss, patchouli, and many more. A fragrance might have just a few notes or dozens, depending on its complexity.

There are three types of notes: top, middle/heart, and base. Top notes are the initial impression of the fragrance and the first to evaporate. They last from 15 minutes to 2 hours and include light floral, citrus, fruity, powdery, marine, aquatic, and spice scents. Middle or heart notes make up the bulk of the fragrance and last the longest, from 3 to 5 hours. They include heavier floral scents like jasmine, as well as green scents like grass or stone, and spices like cinnamon and clove. Base notes are the boldest notes, becoming more noticeable later in the day, and they determine how long the fragrance lasts on your skin. They include sandalwood, moss, vetiver, vanilla, tar, leather, smoke, tobacco, and musk.

When choosing a cologne, it's important to pay attention to all three layers of notes. This will give you a more dynamic experience as you appreciate how the fragrance changes throughout the day.

You can also categorise fragrances into fragrance families, such as woody, floral, fresh, or oriental. While this may seem unnecessary, it's useful to understand the big-picture classification. Two scents might have the same notes but very different expressions. By understanding the fragrance families you're drawn to, you can narrow down your options.

When shopping for a cologne, it's best to try it on your skin. The scent will only truly open up and reach its full potential when it interacts with the warmth of your skin and your body odour.

Understand fragrance families and their seasonality

The perfume universe is divided into fragrance families, which are further split into sub-families. These are based on the dominant characteristics of the scents within them.

There are four main fragrance families: Woody, Ambery (formerly known as Oriental), Floral, and Fresh.

Woody fragrances are rich, warm, seductive, opulent, and sophisticated. They tend to have a dark and earthy scent, created by blending notes of resin, moss, bark, pine cones, and woods (like sandalwood and cedarwood).

Ambery fragrances are typically spicy, warm, rich, and mature. They are inspired by the birth-place of many scents; India and Arabia. The original fragrances were steeped in potent incense, spice, and musk. The key notes of an ambery fragrance are earthy and woody, with notes such as heliotrope, sandalwood, coumarin, orris, and vanilla.

Floral fragrances are soft, delicate, and powdery. They can contain potent flowers, or be warmed with spices for a deeper scent, or a zesty citrus fruit for a fresher finish. The typical floral notes in a floral fragrance come from rose, peony, lily of the valley, mimosa, and jasmine.

Fresh fragrances are refreshing, light, and clean. They are typically inspired by nature, especially the ocean, as they evoke the sense of the early morning air, a cool breeze, or a walk by the seaside. The classic notes of a fresh fragrance are zesty fruits such as lemon, bergamot, orange, and grapefruit, mixed with sage and other green or spicy tones.

The seasonality of a fragrance is important. What works in a winter fragrance (warming tobacco, leather, or spice) differs from the best summer scent (green and aquatic notes). Likewise, a fall fragrance (patchouli, musk, and vanilla) is distinct from a spring fragrance (floral or citrus).

One of the best ways to understand seasonality and how notes work with certain moods and occasions is Michael Edwards' Fragrance Wheel. This wheel was created in 1992 and edited in 2010 to contain the four primary families of fragrances.

Ask others what scent they're wearing

Asking others about the scent they are wearing is a great way to discover new fragrances and find one that suits you. Here are some tips to guide you on how to ask others about the scent they are wearing:

• Be mindful of the setting and your relationship with the person. While it is generally acceptable to ask friends, colleagues, or acquaintances about their perfume, use your discretion when approaching strangers. Some people may be more open to striking up a conversation with strangers, while others prefer to keep to themselves.
• Approach the person politely and respectfully. Introduce yourself if necessary, and explain that you noticed their pleasant fragrance and are curious to know what it is. For example, you could say, "Hi, I couldn't help but notice your wonderful perfume. May I ask what scent you're wearing?"
• Avoid making the interaction awkward or uncomfortable. Be mindful of the other person's boundaries and personal space. Ensure your inquiry comes across as a sincere compliment rather than an intrusive question.
• Be aware of the context and timing of your inquiry. Choose an appropriate moment when the person is not busy or preoccupied. For example, asking during a coffee break or after a meeting may be more suitable than interrupting their focused work.
• Listen attentively to their response, and feel free to engage in further conversation about fragrances if they are open to it. You can use this opportunity to learn more about their perfume preferences, and they may even offer additional recommendations or insights.
• Take note of the fragrance they mention and consider trying it out for yourself. You can research the fragrance online or visit a perfume store to sample it. Remember that scents can smell different on different people due to individual body chemistry, so it's worth testing it on yourself before making a purchase.
• If you feel uncomfortable directly asking someone about their perfume, you could consider asking a mutual friend to inquire on your behalf. This approach may be less intimidating and can provide you with the information you seek.
• Remember that everyone has different preferences, and what smells appealing to some may not be pleasing to others. Take into account your own taste and whether the fragrance aligns with your desired mood, occasion, and personal expression.
• Keep in mind that some people may not be willing or comfortable sharing the information. Respect their decision if they choose not to disclose the name of the fragrance or engage in further discussion.
• Lastly, don't forget to express your gratitude. Thank the person for their time and for sharing their perfume details with you.

Try before you buy

Trying out a cologne before buying it is an important step in the process of choosing the right cologne for you. Department stores are great for this purpose, but it's important not to buy until you're ready. When testing colognes, the maximum number of scents to try at once is four, but if you're just starting out, it's recommended to only test two (one on each arm).

When testing, spray one scent on each wrist (and each inner elbow if testing four). Avoid the cards department stores provide to smell the colognes, as these will only allow you to smell the top notes and not how the cologne smells on you. Instead, walk around the store and smell the fragrances at various intervals. Take notes on your phone or in a journal about which ones you like and why.

If you're buying cologne online, it's still important to try before you buy. Many brands include a sampler of the product with your purchase, so you can try the cologne before unwrapping the actual fragrance. Other brands offer discovery sets, which provide a voucher that can be used towards a full-size bottle purchase. There are also subscription sample companies that will send you a different scent each month, and sites that sell individual samples of niche/boutique scents.

When trying a new cologne for the first time, always start with a light layer. A small spritz will allow you to see how well the cologne performs and what kind of feedback you get. Target your pulse points, especially the neck, which will allow you to enjoy the scent more, and the wrists, which are great at warming up the scent and helping it to project.

Don't buy a cologne because someone else likes it. If you don't like it, put it back on the shelf.

Understand the different types of fragrances

Understanding the different types of fragrances is a key step in choosing the right cologne. The fragrance wheel, developed by industry expert Michael Edwards, is a widely accepted tool that separates scents into various large buckets and smaller categories. While on paper, two scents might have the same notes with an entirely different expression, understanding the fragrance wheel can help you zero in on a smaller list of options faster.

The original categories proposed by Edwards were woody (aromatic, dry woods, mossy woods, and woody oriental), oriental (oriental and soft oriental), floral (floral oriental, soft floral, and floral), and fresh (fruity, green, water/marine, and citrus). In the middle of the wheel is fougère, which can be made up of combinations of various categories. Each category gives the user a different scent experience, and if we tie that back to memory or experience, it gives us a different scent for a different situation. For example, a floral or fresh scent might be used more in the summer, while a woody scent might be more applicable in the winter.

Citrus

The citrus genre is much more self-explanatory. This fragrance family consists of a variety of citrus fruits, with oils usually extracted from their peels. There are also synthetic citrus materials, which can be used to create vivid, naturalistic representations of citrus fruit and add citrus smells that are not found in nature. Citruses are usually volatile and evaporate quickly, bringing vibrancy and impact on the first spray.

Fresh or Ocean

This is a relatively new family of fragrances. Oceanic aromas are often enriched with spice aromas or refreshing citrus notes. Fragrances in this category are especially popular in spring and summer when you want to bring home a feeling of freshness, lightness, cleanliness, and romance.

Floral

Floral scents are perhaps the most popular type of scent in a feminine context. This fragrance category includes fragrances that consist of floral scents such as magnolia, lavender, mimosa, rose, orchid, lily of the valley, jasmine, lily, and other fragrant flowers. For masculine scents, neroli and lavender are the most common choices and are usually considered add-ons to citrus and spices. Floral types of fragrances for men are mild and may resemble warm seasons, holidays, and travel.

Chypre or Woody

Chypre family fragrances are characterised by aromas of earth, moss, oak, cedar, patchouli, citrus, and bergamot. The modern flavours of chypre are infused with a variety of scent notes, such as floral and fruity. For example, the heavier odours of cedar or oak are often attenuated by the citrus aromas, making it difficult to describe. These are rich and multilayered scents, where you will first feel the citrus freshness, but gradually smell the heavier notes. These scents are versatile and suitable for all seasons of the year.

Fougere

The name fougère is derived from the French word for fern. It is an intriguing family of scents based on ferns and lavender. The fragrances of this family are most popular among men's perfumes. These scents can be described as earthy, with their most common notes being plants and trees. These scents are also not very seasonal and can be worn in both winter and summer.

Oriental

If floral-type scents are light and refreshing, oriental scents are the opposite. This is where the most luxurious spices meet, creating a magical and enchanting effect. The most popular scents are vanilla, sandalwood, cinnamon, honey, amber, musk, nutmeg, carnation, incense, ginger, and more. Oriental scents are usually exquisite, spicy, or very sweet, as exotic spices are almost always included. The scents of this fragrance type can be called gourmet, luxurious, and solid.

Frequently asked questions