Seamus Hammond
Brooches, like perfume, have been a popular accessory for centuries and are now making a comeback. Determining the age of a perfume brooch can be a complex task, but there are some key indicators to look out for. Antique jewellery is classified as over 100 years old, while vintage jewellery is at least 50 years old. The style of the clasp can be a good indicator of age, with T-bar hinge and c-clasp types generally dating from the 19th century up until the 1920s. The length of the pin can also be a clue, as pins were generally longer in older brooches to secure them in thick, heavy clothing. Additionally, certain characteristics of perfume bottles can help determine their age, such as the presence of a rough pontil mark, which indicates the bottle was made before 1850. Labels and box styles can also provide clues, with Art Nouveau styles generally dating from 1900 to the 1920s, and Art Deco styles from the mid-1920s to the 1940s.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Clasp mechanisms | T-bar hinge and c-clasp types were used from the 19th century until the 1920s |
| Pin length | Generally, the longer the pin, the older the brooch |
| Box or label style | Art Nouveau (1900-1920s), Art Deco (mid-1920s to 1940s), psychedelic (late 1960s-early 1970s) |
| Advertisements | Compare the perfume to ads in old magazines, which usually include dates |
| Labels | Old labels turn brown, and water or perfume can cause stains over the years |
| Enameled lettering | Also known as serigraphy, this was used after the 1930s and was common in the 1940s |
| Patent number | Frequent in the 1930s and 1940s, and can be looked up on search engines |
| Barcode | If there is an EAN barcode on the box, the perfume dates to after 1989 |
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What You'll Learn
- Clasps: 'T-bar hinge and c-clasp' types are generally from the 19th century to the 1920s
- Pin length: Longer pins suggest older brooches
- Advertisements: Compare your perfume to those in old magazines
- Bottle characteristics: A rough pontil mark suggests it's from before 1850
- Labels: 'Made in Occupied Japan' suggests it's from 1945-1952
Clasps: 'T-bar hinge and c-clasp' types are generally from the 19th century to the 1920s
When it comes to identifying antique perfume brooches, one of the first things to examine is the clasp mechanism. T-bar hinge and C-clasp types are generally indicative of brooches from the 19th century up until the 1920s. While modern artisans may still use C-clasps, T-bar hinges are rarely seen on modern brooches.
The T-bar hinge and C-clasp mechanism was common during this period due to the thickness and weight of clothing. A longer pin was required to securely fasten the brooch to the fabric. This type of clasp can be seen on antique agate brooches from the 1880s, an example of Victorian jewellery.
From the 1910s to the 1930s, 'trombone' clasps began to emerge. These are tubular cylinders used to secure the pin in place, although C-clasps were still prevalent during this time. It's important to note that these dating methods are general guidelines, and variations can be found across different eras of jewellery.
The presence of a T-bar hinge and C-clasp mechanism on your perfume brooch suggests that it is likely an antique piece, dating from the 19th century to the early 20th century. However, to further confirm its age, it's recommended to consider other factors such as design, metal type, and stone cuts. Additionally, gaining exposure to genuine vintage jewellery by visiting auctions, antique fairs, and vintage shops can enhance your understanding of antique jewellery characteristics.
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Pin length: Longer pins suggest older brooches
The length of a brooch's pin can be indicative of its age. Generally, longer pins suggest older brooches. This is likely because clothing was much thicker and heavier in the past, requiring longer pins to secure the brooch in place. Indeed, pins from the Victorian era are notably longer than those from the 1960s onwards. However, it is important to remember that these are only general guidelines, and there may be exceptions. For example, while T-bar hinges are typically associated with antique brooches from the 19th century to the 1920s, they may occasionally be found on post-1930s jewellery. Similarly, long pins may be found on 1990s jewellery.
When dating vintage brooches, it is recommended to examine multiple factors in addition to pin length. These include clasp mechanisms, overall style, signs of repair, and identifying marks. For example, the 'T-bar hinge and C-clasp' types were commonly used from the 19th century until the 1920s, but some modern artisans still prefer to use C-clasps. Additionally, it is worth handling as many vintage pieces as possible to develop a sense of what genuine vintage jewellery looks and feels like.
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Advertisements: Compare your perfume to those in old magazines
To determine if your perfume brooch is antique, you can compare it to advertisements in old magazines. Antique jewellery is classified as over 100 years old, while vintage jewellery is at least 50 years old but less than a century old.
Art Nouveau (1900-1920s)
The Art Nouveau movement spanned the early 20th century, and its influence is evident in the perfume advertisements of the time. These ads often featured intricate designs and ornate typography, reflecting the period's aesthetic sensibilities. The fragrances themselves might have had single-note scents, such as violets or lavender.
Art Deco (mid-1920s to 1940s)
The Art Deco era brought a shift in perfume advertising, with elegant and glamorous designs that captured the sophistication of the time. The fragrances of this period began to explore richer, more complex notes, blending amber, floral, and leather genres.
Psychedelic (late 1960s to early 1970s)
As the youth culture of the 1960s blossomed, perfume advertisements took on a psychedelic twist. Bright colours and trippy designs reflected the counterculture movement, and fragrances might have had more exotic or unconventional scents.
Modern Era (1980s to present)
The late 20th century saw a standardisation of perfume packaging, with EAN barcodes appearing on boxes after 1989. The Green Dot recycling symbol became mandatory on packaging starting in 1992. Modern perfumes often feature complex blends, with celebrity endorsements and sleek, minimalist designs.
By comparing your perfume's packaging, design elements, and fragrance notes to those of perfumes advertised in old magazines, you can gain insight into its age and whether it qualifies as antique or vintage.
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Bottle characteristics: A rough pontil mark suggests it's from before 1850
A pontil mark is a circular mark on the bottom of a bottle where the pontil rod was broken from the bottom after blowing the bottle. The presence of a pontil mark suggests that the piece was blown freehand, rather than using a mould. The technique for mouth-blown or free-blown glass was perfected before the rise of the Roman Empire and has been used around the world ever since.
Towards the end of the 19th century, glassblowers developed new semi-automatic and automatic techniques to speed up and increase glass production, leaving behind labour-intensive mouth-blowing methods. A rough pontil mark, therefore, suggests that the bottle was produced before 1850, as bottles made later only occasionally have rough pontils.
A study of American-made medicinal bottles determined that the peak of the transition from pontil rods to snap case tools was from about 1853 to 1856. Utilitarian bottles made before 1850 had less than a 10% chance of not having a pontil scar. There was about a 10 to 20% chance of a pontil-scarred bottle being made between 1860 and 1865, and by 1875, the likelihood of any given utilitarian bottle being pontil-scarred was essentially zero.
A true but lightly showing sand pontil scar can be identified by running a finger over the base and feeling for a "sandpaper effect" or "catchier" roughness to the base glass surface. A true sand pontil has a sparse scattering of very fine but angular sand, glass, or quartz grains embedded in the surface glass of the base. Some have described this as an "orange peel" effect, although this description may be misleading as a true sand pontil is not bumpy smooth.
It is important to note that pontil marks can be faked to give the appearance of age, so other factors should be considered when evaluating a glass piece.
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Labels: 'Made in Occupied Japan' suggests it's from 1945-1952
If your perfume brooch has a label that reads "Made in Occupied Japan", this suggests that it was made between September 1945 and April 1952. This was the period when Japan was under the occupation of the Allied Forces, led by the United States, following Japan's defeat in World War II.
The occupation, under the leadership of General Douglas MacArthur, aimed to reform and rehabilitate Japan. It involved disarming the country, dismantling its army, banning former military officers from political leadership, and implementing land reforms to reduce the power of wealthy landowners who had supported Japanese expansionism.
The Treaty of San Francisco, which officially ended the occupation, was signed on September 8, 1951, and came into effect on April 28, 1952, restoring full sovereignty to Japan, except for certain island chains that remained under US control.
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Frequently asked questions
Perfume bottles can be dated by looking for marks and signatures, often stamped on the base of the bottle. You can also look for clues in the style of the box or label, such as Art Nouveau (1900-1920s) or Art Deco (mid-1920s to 1940s). Another clue is the presence of a patent number on the base, which was common in the 1930s and 1940s.
Antique brooches are generally defined as over 100 years old, while vintage brooches are at least 50 years old but less than 100 years old. One way to identify if a brooch is antique is to look at its clasp mechanism. T-bar hinge and C-clasp types were generally used from the 19th century until around the 1920s. Additionally, longer pins generally indicate older brooches.
Antique perfume brooches can be found at auctions, antique fairs, and vintage shops. Online marketplaces have also made it easier to find rare pieces, although competition can drive up prices.
